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[4891d]

If you could make it so the joints could be retightened by the end user that would be great. Welding both the head of the machine screw and the nut (most of the time the threads are welded to the nut too)

I've had over 30 dolls. I've seen a good number of manufacturers doing this.

A nylon locking nut or just weld ONLY the nut to the joint. Welding the head of the machine screw/bolt is 100% Not needed or wanted. If I could poke a tiny hole insert an allen socket to tighten a loose joint. Then seal it back up.. Wow!! You might actually have a winner.

+ 1 !
The problem of loose joints occurs, more or less quickly, with all brands, regardless of their price range. TDF is full of threads about it.
I think it must be impossible to avoid. But the manufacturer who will invent and market an effective, simple, non-destructive way to fix it (perhaps a simple little hole or incision to make to pass an Allen wrench through) will deserve the recognition of their customers.
I think that the skeleton should be designed so that all the clamping screws are easily located and accessible.

[-Ragnar66-]

Might add my 10 here as well (no particular order):

1. More choices for particular ethnic dolls (heads) like african, indian, generally the more dark skin (cocoa-black) ones. Painting a basically caucasian type doll black is nonsense for that matter. Also avoid silly stereotypes (i.e big ass + big tits + black = african). Shapes matter more than sizes.

2. Doll height and sizes. Consider availabilty of dresses/accessories that do and can fit a particular doll. Otherwise there´s high risk for mispurchases. Shoulder width and waist can be a problem area when related to doll heigth. My personal preference would be somewhere around 80-60-100, maybe less if doll is somewhat down scaled overally. Height between 160 to 170cm.

3. Related to 2. Offered head choices should at least include data on head circumference (hat size). Helps finding appropriately fitting commercial type wigs. An option to see a particular head without a wig would help as well. Both in frontal and profile view.

4. Doll weight preferably at 32-40kg range at max (doll + head). Less would be somewhat better, but not far below 30kg for me personally.

5. Closed or open mouth (with TPE teeth) version on same doll head. The latter I found is great for kissing, even without additional tongue option.

6. There can never be enough options for doll eyes re color as well as iris/pupil sizes (assuming standard 32mm).

7. Eyelashes resilient enough so they don´t get easily damaged or fall off during eye changing.

8. Sufficiently good Love Hole Placement, also considering internal angles. Both for photo shooting and the other fun part.

9. Fixed vagina options (pre purchase): Tightness and inner texture. Also some related hints for which type of lube is best for the options (thin to thick viscosity).

10. For QC matters make sure all joints can be moved properly. Avoid any sharp edges on skeleton for any the movement possibilities. Some might reveal if joints are bent 90° or more, causing inside creeping damage to the TPE. The wrap around fabric can and will be cut as well. Sooner or later these damages show on the outside.

[Funwest Doll]

Might add my 10 here as well (no particular order):

1. More choices for particular ethnic dolls (heads) like african, indian, generally the more dark skin (cocoa-black) ones. Painting a basically caucasian type doll black is nonsense for that matter. Also avoid silly stereotypes (i.e big ass + big tits + black = african). Shapes matter more than sizes.

2. Doll height and sizes. Consider availabilty of dresses/accessories that do and can fit a particular doll. Otherwise there´s high risk for mispurchases. Shoulder width and waist can be a problem area when related to doll heigth. My personal preference would be somewhere around 80-60-100, maybe less if doll is somewhat down scaled overally. Height between 160 to 170cm.

3. Related to 2. Offered head choices should at least include data on head circumference (hat size). Helps finding appropriately fitting commercial type wigs. An option to see a particular head without a wig would help as well. Both in frontal and profile view.

4. Doll weight preferably at 32-40kg range at max (doll + head). Less would be somewhat better, but not far below 30kg for me personally.

5. Closed or open mouth (with TPE teeth) version on same doll head. The latter I found is great for kissing, even without additional tongue option.

6. There can never be enough options for doll eyes re color as well as iris/pupil sizes (assuming standard 32mm).

7. Eyelashes resilient enough so they don´t get easily damaged or fall off during eye changing.

8. Sufficiently good Love Hole Placement, also considering internal angles. Both for photo shooting and the other fun part.

9. Fixed vagina options (pre purchase): Tightness and inner texture. Also some related hints for which type of lube is best for the options (thin to thick viscosity).

10. For QC matters make sure all joints can be moved properly. Avoid any sharp edges on skeleton for any the movement possibilities. Some might reveal if joints are bent 90° or more, causing inside creeping damage to the TPE. The wrap around fabric can and will be cut as well. Sooner or later these damages show on the outside.

If you could make it so the joints could be retightened by the end user that would be great. Welding both the head of the machine screw and the nut (most of the time the threads are welded to the nut too)

I've had over 30 dolls. I've seen a good number of manufacturers doing this.

A nylon locking nut or just weld ONLY the nut to the joint. Welding the head of the machine screw/bolt is 100% Not needed or wanted. If I could poke a tiny hole insert an allen socket to tighten a loose joint. Then seal it back up.. Wow!! You might actually have a winner.

+ 1 !
The problem of loose joints occurs, more or less quickly, with all brands, regardless of their price range. TDF is full of threads about it.
I think it must be impossible to avoid. But the manufacturer who will invent and market an effective, simple, non-destructive way to fix it (perhaps a simple little hole or incision to make to pass an Allen wrench through) will deserve the recognition of their customers.
I think that the skeleton should be designed so that all the clamping screws are easily located and accessible.

These are all good suggestions. Thank you all, I will record it in my work diary. Improve slowly. But as you can imagine, this may take a long time. But we will try.