$10 head adapter!

[ZombieWinter]

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.

I recieved my silicone 168 Sanhui yesterday and I'm very impressed with her. I would eventually like to change her head with other ones that have m16 style connectors.

Is there a way to do this without welding an m16 nut on the neck of the body?

I'm hoping someone knows of an adapter bolt available, or a DIY part I could pick up at the local hardware store.

Edit:

I found this at Dollstudio, but I'm not sure it would fit the Flexi Skeleton body : https://us.dollstudio.org/products/adap ... pter-wm2sh

[ZombieWinter]

I found some simple things on Ebay that works excellent. I don't have a link right now (on my phone) but type in the descriptions and they should come up.

2 pieces:

10mm bolt with a 1.5 pitch thread and a small head (smaller than 16mm head).

A 16mm reducer screw with an outside pitch of 2mm (standard WM) and an inside pitch of 1.5mm (Sanhui) for a 10mm bolt.

Costs less than $10 total, takes 30 seconds to put together, and is made of stainless steel (not plastic like some).

For a Sanhui head to a WM style body use a 45mm (total length) bolt. For a WM style head to a Sanhui Flexi Skeleton body use a longer bolt since the threads in the body are recessed. I haven't tried it (yet) but a 55mm or 60mm long bolt should work well. I'll get a bolt at the hardware store and update this thread later in the week (if I remember!)

[ZombieWinter]

Update:

Here's a link to the reducer: https://www.ebay.com/itm/324918886827

Shipping is expensive at $5 but if you buy 2 reducers the shipping prices don't increase (they combine shipping to save you money). I recommend buying 2 so you can have both a SH to WM and a WM to SH adapter. They told me the reducers wouldn't arrive until June 16th, but they actually arrived on the 6th, 10 days earlier than expected!

[ZombieWinter]

I bought a 10mm bolt at 60mm long and it was too long. I messed up on the measurement, but rather than go to the store again and get the correct size, I just cut off the bolt head at 2 inches (51mm) and it works perfectly. If you have the means to cut bolts (hacksaw or whatever) then you could use any length of 10mm bolt as long as the threads are at least 2 inches long.

[ZombieWinter]

I put a Zelex G41 on my Sanhui 168. Here's more pics: viewtopic.php?p=2163213#p2163213

[Rock13]

This is good stuff, ZombieWinter. Thanks for doing all of the experimentation and sharing your results and hardware information!

[ZombieWinter]

This is good stuff, ZombieWinter. Thanks for doing all of the experimentation and sharing your results and hardware information!

Thanks for replying to the thread! Now I have proof someone actually read this!

The adapter works well and is very sturdy. For under $10 I don't think you can get any better unless you have a machine shop and lathe a monolithic version.

[Torsocheck]

Thanks for sharing this! I'm considering trying a starpery head/irontech torso hybrid and it's helpful to see some of the tools that one might go about doing this with.

[ZombieWinter]

Thanks for sharing this! I'm considering trying a starpery head/irontech torso hybrid and it's helpful to see some of the tools that one might go about doing this with.

I think IronTech and Starpery both use 16mm bolts, so the only issue *should be* neck size and color.

[Cl5k12]

I found some simple things on Ebay that works excellent. I don't have a link right now (on my phone) but type in the descriptions and they should come up.

2 pieces:

10mm bolt with a 1.5 pitch thread and a small head (smaller than 16mm head).

A 16mm reducer screw with an outside pitch of 2mm (standard WM) and an inside pitch of 1.5mm (Sanhui) for a 10mm bolt.

Costs less than $10 total, takes 30 seconds to put together, and is made of stainless steel (not plastic like some).

For a Sanhui head to a WM style body use a 45mm (total length) bolt. For a WM style head to a Sanhui Flexi Skeleton body use a longer bolt since the threads in the body are recessed. I haven't tried it (yet) but a 55mm or 60mm long bolt should work well. I'll get a bolt at the hardware store and update this thread later in the week (if I remember!)

Thanks so much for sharing this!

Would this also work to put a Sanhui head onto a Zelex body?

[ZombieWinter]

I found some simple things on Ebay that works excellent. I don't have a link right now (on my phone) but type in the descriptions and they should come up.

2 pieces:

10mm bolt with a 1.5 pitch thread and a small head (smaller than 16mm head).

A 16mm reducer screw with an outside pitch of 2mm (standard WM) and an inside pitch of 1.5mm (Sanhui) for a 10mm bolt.

Costs less than $10 total, takes 30 seconds to put together, and is made of stainless steel (not plastic like some).

For a Sanhui head to a WM style body use a 45mm (total length) bolt. For a WM style head to a Sanhui Flexi Skeleton body use a longer bolt since the threads in the body are recessed. I haven't tried it (yet) but a 55mm or 60mm long bolt should work well. I'll get a bolt at the hardware store and update this thread later in the week (if I remember!)

Thanks so much for sharing this!

Would this also work to put a Sanhui head onto a Zelex body?

Reducers are the same, however bolt lengths are different. Reread the thread and youll find the measurements for each configuration.

[Cl5k12]

I found some simple things on Ebay that works excellent. I don't have a link right now (on my phone) but type in the descriptions and they should come up.

2 pieces:

10mm bolt with a 1.5 pitch thread and a small head (smaller than 16mm head).

A 16mm reducer screw with an outside pitch of 2mm (standard WM) and an inside pitch of 1.5mm (Sanhui) for a 10mm bolt.

Costs less than $10 total, takes 30 seconds to put together, and is made of stainless steel (not plastic like some).

For a Sanhui head to a WM style body use a 45mm (total length) bolt. For a WM style head to a Sanhui Flexi Skeleton body use a longer bolt since the threads in the body are recessed. I haven't tried it (yet) but a 55mm or 60mm long bolt should work well. I'll get a bolt at the hardware store and update this thread later in the week (if I remember!)

Thanks so much for sharing this!

Would this also work to put a Sanhui head onto a Zelex body?

Reducers are the same, however bolt lengths are different. Reread the thread and youll find the measurements for each configuration.

Perfect, thanks! Read through and I see what I need.

Does it matter whether you use rounded bolts/hex bolts? Or is round better?

Appreciate you making this

[ZombieWinter]

I found some simple things on Ebay that works excellent. I don't have a link right now (on my phone) but type in the descriptions and they should come up.

2 pieces:

10mm bolt with a 1.5 pitch thread and a small head (smaller than 16mm head).

A 16mm reducer screw with an outside pitch of 2mm (standard WM) and an inside pitch of 1.5mm (Sanhui) for a 10mm bolt.

Costs less than $10 total, takes 30 seconds to put together, and is made of stainless steel (not plastic like some).

For a Sanhui head to a WM style body use a 45mm (total length) bolt. For a WM style head to a Sanhui Flexi Skeleton body use a longer bolt since the threads in the body are recessed. I haven't tried it (yet) but a 55mm or 60mm long bolt should work well. I'll get a bolt at the hardware store and update this thread later in the week (if I remember!)

Thanks so much for sharing this!

Would this also work to put a Sanhui head onto a Zelex body?

Reducers are the same, however bolt lengths are different. Reread the thread and youll find the measurements for each configuration.

Perfect, thanks! Read through and I see what I need.

Does it matter whether you use rounded bolts/hex bolts? Or is round better?

Appreciate you making this

It shouldn't matter too much as long as the bolt head diameter is SMALLER than the reducer's total outside diameter. The reducer is designed to go into a 16mm doll socket, if the bolt's head is bigger than 16mm then it won't fit into the doll's socket.

General update:
I had a minor issue with my adapter:

My reducer and bolt (the bolt I cut with no head) seperated while swapping doll heads. The reducer was embedded deep into the doll's socket and was impossible to remove with pliers. I applied superglue to the bolt, threaded it into the reducer, waited 30 minutes, and was able to remove the reducer by using the bolt to turn the reducer (with pliers).

If you make an adapter with no bolt head (sawed off bolt) have some superglue or locktight ready just in case.

[Cl5k12]

I found some simple things on Ebay that works excellent. I don't have a link right now (on my phone) but type in the descriptions and they should come up.

2 pieces:

10mm bolt with a 1.5 pitch thread and a small head (smaller than 16mm head).

A 16mm reducer screw with an outside pitch of 2mm (standard WM) and an inside pitch of 1.5mm (Sanhui) for a 10mm bolt.

Costs less than $10 total, takes 30 seconds to put together, and is made of stainless steel (not plastic like some).

For a Sanhui head to a WM style body use a 45mm (total length) bolt. For a WM style head to a Sanhui Flexi Skeleton body use a longer bolt since the threads in the body are recessed. I haven't tried it (yet) but a 55mm or 60mm long bolt should work well. I'll get a bolt at the hardware store and update this thread later in the week (if I remember!)

Thanks so much for sharing this!

Would this also work to put a Sanhui head onto a Zelex body?

Reducers are the same, however bolt lengths are different. Reread the thread and youll find the measurements for each configuration.

Perfect, thanks! Read through and I see what I need.

Does it matter whether you use rounded bolts/hex bolts? Or is round better?

Appreciate you making this

It shouldn't matter too much as long as the bolt head diameter is SMALLER than the reducer's total outside diameter. The reducer is designed to go into a 16mm doll socket, if the bolt's head is bigger than 16mm then it won't fit into the doll's socket.

General update:
I had a minor issue with my adapter:

My reducer and bolt (the bolt I cut with no head) seperated while swapping doll heads. The reducer was embedded deep into the doll's socket and was impossible to remove with pliers. I applied superglue to the bolt, threaded it into the reducer, waited 30 minutes, and was able to remove the reducer by using the bolt to turn the reducer (with pliers).

If you make an adapter with no bolt head (sawed off bolt) have some superglue or locktight ready just in case.

I was actually wondering if something like that would happen where the bolt would get stuck inside of the doll, but I was aiming at making sure the bolt head would be beneath the reducer that way if worst comes to worst the bolt head would help push the reducer out while rotating it.

Glad you were able to get the bolt out!

Thanks again !

[serotta]

I'll add my voice to those thanking you for posting this info. I've been looking at the Sanhui 161 but having trouble getting excited about the selection of heads. Glad to know there are options!