Silicone and other doll making "stuff".
Silicone and other doll making "stuff".
If you want some silicone to experiment with, or to fix a small nick or something in dolly... here you go:
1 PINT KIT
That is a 1 pint (.48 liter) kit of V-1082 silicone. You mix the stuff 4:1 and it sets up in about 16 hours. If you don't want to wait that long...
KICKER
This is a "kicker" that will cut the time in half. As you speed up the cure time... the silicone becomes more prone to tearing. If you want to make some test peices to check a mold... you could actually have the silicone set up in an hour. I wouldn't recomend it... but you could.
For reference... here is the main silicone reference page:
http://www.fxwarehouseinc.com
If you think you are going to make a doll... consider that a Superbabe takes 9 gallons... I'm sure a realdoll is about the same... you would need two of the 5 gallon kits:
5 GALLON KIT
or about $900.00 worth of silicone.
The silicone I am referencing is A-Shore hardness 10... if you want 1-3 a shore... like in the center of the breasts... you add silicone oil.
SILICONE OIL
Softer silicone is also more prone to tears. If it is inside a breast... not a problem. I am going to make some really gooey silicone and fill out the breasts of my Tera Patrick doll.
Speaking of dolls... I have a few latex dolls... I'm thinking about foam filling at least one of them... possibly the vinyl core of my Tera Patrick doll. I will be using a 3 pound foam... that means that a 1 foot cube would weigh 3 pounds. This is what you want:
3 POUND EXPANDING FOAM
You mix it 50:50 and it foams up like shaving cream. that's a 1.5 gallon (5 liter) ket that "should" expand to about 10 gallons... I bought two of them. If you want more...
7 GALLON KIT
Go for the 7 gallon kit.
The silicone I mentioned is translucent clear... take 1/4 glass of milk and fill it with water... about that color. You will need pigments... more on that in a second. If your doll has a minor tear... use this:
Shin Etsu Silicone
Just use it sparingly. It cures once exposed to air... a thin coating is all it takes... otherwise you will feel a harder area.
Back to pigments... silicone can have makeup, artist oil colors, or many other things mixed with it. Experiment. If you want to buy pigments... here are some... VERY CONCENTRATED... a drop can do a pint with ease.
http://www.artmolds.com/category104.cfm
If you want to experiment with small castings...
http://www.artmolds.com/category94.cfm
Something to tinker with... very useful, very educational, not too expensive.
Do you want to experiment with casting you hand or something similar? Here is a kit less than $20:
http://www.artmolds.com/category84.cfm
Larger areas:
http://www.artmolds.com/category4.cfm
And... if you want to design your own doll and take over the industry...
http://www.artmolds.com/category7.cfm
That will get you started.
The ultimate place to find just about everything else... including the video set that Bill and I used to learn everything we know... is here: http://www.pinkhouse.com/
If you want to do a body cast with every pore intact... this stuff will work... it isn't cheap... but it works damn well:
http://www.pinkhouse.com/Plyolife.html
Okay then... have fun, be safe, build dolls.
Jerry
Another cool thing I learned from my son-in-law is that if you need to top off your mold because of shrinkage you can put your remaining mixture in the refrigerator to halt the curing process for later use.
When I was at Abyss watching them making the dolls I noticed that they had to add more silicone to the mold because of shrinkage.
I just spent a fair sum of money today... Tera Patrick is getting a makeover.
I spent about $400 worth of materials... getting as bad as you Bill!
I am mixing up some gell silicone and putting it into the vinyl breast area. Once it cures, it will form soft breasts that won't sag because they will be encapsulated in the vinyl. Next I will pour A Shore 15 silicone into both hands to make them firm and give them weight so they don't flop around. Same with the feet.
Next I am injecting (via the fill hole) about 1/2 gallon of self-expanding foam fill into both legs and allowing it to expand up to about her waist. I'll then inject foam into each arm and allow the excess to expand into the body cavity. I'll do a series of smaller sets to fill the body without blowing her apart.
Next... I mix up silicone and pump it into the area between the now foam filled core and the latex skin... enough to do the legs so the weight doesn't cause buldging. Then a pour of VERY soft gell to fill her waist/butt area. Then a pour to surround the breast implants.
Then I mix up about a pint, pump it in and over-inflate the doll slightly. As I let the air out... the latex will squeeze the silicone up the doll until it starts to come out of the plug. I'll close the valve and allow to completely set. Later, I'll remove the plug and cement a peice of latex over the hole.
I'll have a solid doll that is about 1/3 the weight of a Realdoll/Superbabe, high tear resistance, and no leaks.
( Or I will have screwed up may favorite $300 doll... but we won't go there... )
Jerry
Adriana is gonna kill me when she gets the credit card bill...
- timetraveler1
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jerry's tera patric doll
Shipper arrived...
I haven't figured out how in the hell to get this goo from a mixer into the doll in 10 seconds. I was hoping to inject via the nozzle... looks like I need to make a cut. Didn't want to do that. The other thing is that the mix ratio is 33:67 by weight. Gee... a nice 50:50 would have been too easy I guess.
I'll get the calculator and the gram scale out... gonna be interesting around here this weekend.
I do have a thought however... make a PVC mixing chamber with a valve at the bottom. Pour in the stuff... mix... place on the lid and hit the valve... then hit the air compressor to pressurize the contaner to 30 PSI and force it out the bottom. Might work... might explode. Interesting either way. Hope I don't end up with hot, expanding, sticky foam all over me.
Okay... just re-read the instructions for this version foam...
Cream Time = 40 seconds
Rise Time = 180 seconds
Demold = 7 to 10 minutes (cure finished.)
Not quite as bad as I thought... still interesting. I have a sample curing now.
Jerry
However you get it done Keep us posted. And thanks for all of the great links and info regarding building a silicone doll.
Jeff
Good luck with it all, I used use this foam years ago when making fibreglass mouldings, good stuff but you do need to be quick.
And thanks very much for the links, its been very interesting reading, all I need to do now is try and find UK suppliers as the shipping to here would be a problem.
R
On the other end is a threaded peice where I attached an air line quick disconnect. My theory is that I measure and pour in part-B (the bulk of the mix at 67%) then add the part-a and insert an electric mixer for 10 seconds. As soon as it is mixed... screw on the upper peice and apply air to force it through the tubing and into the doll. I have a variable regulator so I can adjust the pressure as needed. Since it is likely that I'll need about 30 PSI to force it out... I did a pressure test to 100 PSI to see if it would hold together or explode. No problems... so if it can hold 100 PSI... it should be safe at 30 PSI. I even simulated a clogged hose by putting a partially inflated balloon in the chamber and hitting the pressure... held up fine. I unscrewed the lower section and repressurized... shot the balloon 20 feet.
Also in theory... once the mixure is all out and I hear air... I can pop the quick release and prevent overpressure of the doll. I am beginning to contemplate doing an entire gallon at one time... lay the doll flat and let it expand her whole body upward... front to back. Then add another mix if needed.
I will go to the party store tomorrow to buy some clear alien dolls that are about 18 inches tall. They have a pack of 6 for about $10 or so. I fugure they will make a great scale test to see if it fits or bursts the seams. I'll be in the driveway with a tarp down just in case. Likely I'll photograph the event in case I end up covered in foam.
So my friends... I'll keep you posted.
Jerry
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jerry's doll
I poured in the part-a then got the part-b and poured it in. (Pre-measured.) I inserted the drill mixer and hit it for about 12 seconds then installed the top and increased the air pressure. I only needed about 6 PSI to drive it into the doll so it worked out well.
I found that once it reached the bottom of the mix, I could set the air pressure low enough to barely keep the doll inflated. This was a great asset because it kept out wrinkles but didn't allow the doll to over presure.
The body compartment foamed up and filled completely... I could not have done it any better. I made up another smaller mix and filled the head. It is expanding now. I may need to make a smaller fill batch to top it off.
So far... the doll feels GREAT.
I will need to get extra airline and make a filling stand for a full sized doll. Too much metal scraps and such on the floor here to risk it otherwise. I will make a table with supports for her neck and a releif hole for her breasts to sink into. I think this will have a spectacular result if I take my time.
Jerry
I had to hold the doll in position, pour in the foam, mix for 12 seconds, screw on the cap, and apply air... all in under 25 seconds. I couldn't do that and operate a camera at the same time.
When I get ready to do a full sized doll I hope to have an assistant to do the photography.
Jerry
doll...
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