The Doll Forum

Just a thought or two on lifting/moving your doll, as someone who was both a CNA and a medic in the Army, moving bodies (unconscious especially), I have a little experience with this and dolls are actually easier than unconscious since they can hold a pose ).

Lifting from ground level or out of the box on the ground is the most challenging (bathtub included). To address that...

1. Position the doll in a pseudo-seated position, thighs 90 degrees from hips, lower legs 90 degrees from thighs.
2. Kneel down on both knees as close as you can to your doll.
3. Place your dominant arm under the body since the majority of the weight is in the body/head (lift behind the neck with your non-dom arm if you need to make room to slide your arm under).
4. Place your non-dom arm under her legs, at the knee.
5. Being mindful to keep your back straight, "hug" her up to your chest, curling the body up to your (at least) chest, shoulder-high if you can manage it.
6. Straighten fully and rise to a full kneeling position, your thighs perpendicular to the floor now. (shift the weight a little if you feel off-balance)
7. Bring up the leg that's under your dominant arm (that's likely your dominant leg) and make sure your foot is firmly in place. (this involves turning *NOT TWISTING* if a box or tub is involved, be careful!)
8. Lean forward slightly, ever so slightly, as you push up with both legs. The doll's weight will aid you by pulling your forward, but be careful to rise up at the same time or you may end up dumping the doll forward (which is preferable to the damage you will do to your back if you try to correct an out of balance situation).
9. Once you are fully standing, you can again adjust the weight to make sure you're comfortable, then you should be able to navigate to your destination.

I suggest leading feet first, since your non-dom arm is leading, your dominant arm is more suited to holding the majority of the weight and it helps to keep control.

YojimBeau,
Thank you for that detailed explanation
Jeff

Something that may work to stop the bolt from loosening is, believe it or not, POR-15. I know it's a rust inhibitor, but if you're using it, you have to be extra careful not to get it on any bolts that you ever want to remove or you'll have to cut them off. If you get it in the channel of the can where the lid goes on, like on a paint can, you will never get the lid off. I have used it to fuse metal together that was too rusty to weld. It also cures better with moisture. It doesn't "dry", it cures by chemical reaction. It will not stain a doll unless you drip some on her. It will never bleed through TPE, or anything for that matter, once it cures. Because, and the manufacturer states this, there is not a solvent that exists that will cut, thin, or remove it once it cures. Acid from batteries won't even etch it. Paint thinner and brake fluid wipe right off of it. TPE oil would do no more to it than water. So if you wanted that bolt to NEVER loosen, you could degrease it and then put a slight bit of POR-15 on the threads, and it isn't coming off. You would, however, need to put Vaseline or grease on the parts you actually want to be able to move and take care not to get any there. I've dealt with this stuff for years, and I've seen what it can do. Once it cures, the only way to get it off is to grind it off. As a matter of fact, if you get it on your hands, you have to stop what you're doing immediately and clean it off with thinner BEFORE it cures. Because if it cures on your skin, only time will remove it. Trust me, I tried everything from hand cleaner to thinner, all the way to an industrial concrete floor cleaner made for cleaning oil spills that turned my fingernails brown and made them as soft as my skin. Nope, didn't cut the POR.

As always , try at your own risk
Love,
The M&M BCD Girls
Megan and Misumi

YojimBeau wrote:
Lifting from ground level or out of the box on the ground is the most challenging (bathtub included). To address that...

1. Position the doll in a pseudo-seated position, thighs 90 degrees from hips, lower legs 90 degrees from thighs.

2. Kneel down on both knees as close as you can to your doll.

I'm out. Never going to happen. I don't know about others but I'm guessing this would never work for most.

Great guide. I hadn't realized just how heavy these dills are.

I also bought some baby powder, but now I'll switch to corn starch.

I just got a new doll and I found that Charliewone's tip about the body stocking was a life saver. The dust and flakes of dirt was getting all over her and I found that this really helped solve that problem.

As it seems for many people, I'm still undecided on the built-in or removable vagina. My first doll had a built-in and funny story, a little ball of TPE came out one day during douching and I shrugged it off, thinking it must have just been something weird to add stimulation. A month later I noticed a sloshing sound in the left leg and it finally dawned on me why there was rusty-colored water coming out, yikes!

FYSA

https://www.dollforum.com/forum/viewtop ... 7&t=110349

This shows what COULD happen if using ACNE cream to clean stains....
Key point, test before using since all TPE blends are not the same...
What works on one, might do this to another.

https://www.dollforum.com/forum/viewtop ... 6&t=111087
New Jinsan head connector video
Love,
Gracie, Official mascot of the BCD Girls

How well does Permatex work on TPE? You can find out right HERE

My personal tip for removing any leftover moisture from the orfices.

After going thru the standard cleaning process as we've already discussed.

What I do is as follows;

1. Use a Nebulizer Air producing machine........ (used for people with asthma).

2. Sterilze the Tubing used for the nebulizer.

3. Insert in the orfices and Boom....... any left over moisture is removed.

As always.... Use this technique at your own risk. Everyone's situation is different.