Torn silicone orifices - desperately seeking advice

lightfootted · Post by **lightfootted** » Mon Oct 02, 2023 12:12 am

So this was my first ever doll and I have enjoyed it a lot. The doll is still in good condition except for the orifices. I don’t want to name the manufacturer - however, it is a VERY soft silicone brand. It was one of their first silicone models and was based on their TPE mold. The original orifices were a “clamshell” vagina design, with tiny entrance holes and very little material between the anal and vaginal orifices. The orifice entrances came from the factory very tight. The mold might have worked in TPE, but with soft silicone the tearing began almost immediately. To enter the doll, the legs had to be spread at least 90 degrees but often more. I was also inexperienced at cleaning the holes which contributed to the tearing. One it began, it did not slow down, and I was unable to repair the doll. I began by showing the manufacturer the issue. They chided me for not using enough lubricant (as if that was the issue) but sent me a repair kit. Oddly, the repair kit was from a different manufacturer. It was a minuscule amount of silicone, sent specially by air. I tried to repair the perineum, but did not have nearly enough silicone. After curing, the new silicone tore immediately. I have since learned that the repair kits cost most that $100 each, so I had to rule them out as a solution.

Next I turned to Silpoxy windshield repair silicone, at the advice of this forum. However, it dried quite hard, too hard for comfort. While it helped a little, it simple transferred the stress onto other parts of the original silicone, which kept tearing. I eventually cut out the pieces of silpoxy.

I’m left with a huge gape. I can enter the holes but almost an inch of me is unable to enter the doll because the actual orifice begins too deep. And of course, it does not look tempting.

At the very least, I need to repair the perineum so that the two orifices begin closer to the butt of the doll.

I’m considering:

Finding a new silicone formula to attempt repairs. However, I would need a LOT of it, and I’m unsure how to “shape” a new perineum without some kind of guide. This is probably the smart option, but the most work and quite likely to fail.

Cutting out the remainder of the perineum and merging the two holes. This is the most drastic option and may ruin the orifices permanently. It also won’t solve the problem of the gape. However, it may make it easier to enter the doll with the legs closed.

Purchasing an insert (or fleshlight?), trimming the bottom off the insert, and attaching it to fill the gape. This would probably work, though I would be down to one entrance (I would probably seal off the anal orifice). It would be reversible until I decide to permanently attach it. I am unsure what kind or brand of insert would work though.

Cutting out the perineum and the remaining orifices entirely and replacing with an insert. This seems like a bad idea because of the amount of material I’d have to remove. However, it may work as a last resort if all else fails.

Suffice to say… I am embarrassed to post these pictures but I’m desperate for advice! If anyone has any ideas or experience with this, please chime in. Thanks!

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Mon Oct 02, 2023 3:30 am

Grief! That looks really bad

Wheezer · Post by **Wheezer** » Mon Oct 02, 2023 4:08 am

Ouch ... that is painful to look at.
My doll repair is mostly TPE, so I can give you some general ideas of what I have done with silicone molding stuff.
I'm sure there are many silicone repair wizards that will chime in.
They can give you all the ideas of WHAT to use, this is my two cents on HOW.

There are some silicone inserts that include pubic mound, labia, etc. you could use to repair the vagina area.
The last one I saw from ElsaBabe might be able to be trimmed to fit into your existing chasm.
But you might have to carve out a bit of silicone to make it fit.
Probably a straight tube insert for the anus.

Smoothing will be a hoot, since you can't heat carve or smooth silicone like you can with TPE.
If I was repairing it I would look at smooth-on and their various types of two part silicones for molding and casting and painting.
Others might have two part molding materials that would also work.
Position a very small target repair area UP and fill in about 1/2 the depth and let it cure. Having the area up keeps it in place while liquid.
If that works repeat bit by bit on the other areas. Clean well first with acetone or other recommended cleaner.
If the 1/2 depth cures well and sticks, then you can get into pigments for silicone and color match another final layer.

The key kicker is will it stick.
There have been some comments that new silicone does not stick well to cured silicone. Thus the small test.
I'm not sure if it was due to platinum/tin issues, age or just "common knowledge" since I have not done extensive tests to validate.
It might be valid, just an odd combination or just what folks have heard or seen on an information sheets.

Also, when doing the repair make sure the parts are in the 1/2 way position to fill voids and such.
That will help relieve the stress. If you fill it and slam them together then they may fail again when the tension returns.

This is going to be interesting to see how it is repaired.
Cheers!
... W ...

dparson · Post by **dparson** » Mon Oct 02, 2023 6:41 pm

I'd give this stuff a try https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C1NDMSF9 Haven't used it myself but thought it looked promising for silicone work.

rbngdfllw · Post by **rbngdfllw** » Fri Oct 06, 2023 5:09 pm

Ouch, she literally got chewed out.... This is more of an art project than a simple repair. I hate thermoplastics, as in working with them. However, the idea that silicone does not stick and/or adhere to already cured silicone is true only if you are attempting to use like products. However, they make products that promote adhesion and cure on top other silicones. Afterall, how do you like a lot of the paints are made to color professional monster masks? They have a silicone past.

The "glue" I would attempt is https://www.smooth-on.com/products/sil-poxy/ It is skin safe and does not care whether the silicone was tin or platinum cured.

This is the paint base I would use: https://www.smooth-on.com/products/psycho-paint/ You can thin it to either airbrush it or just use a brush.

I would leave that paint thick on the seams and try applying ... maybe waxpaper. Put the wax paper over the wet paint and then smooth the out the wax paper to help reduce the look of the seams. Matching color will be the hard part...

Good Luck.

Ba3527s · Post by **Ba3527s** » Sat Oct 07, 2023 1:03 am

I'd consider sacrificing one of the holes entirely to save the other, as this would be the most structurally sound method of saving the doll in my opinion. The material between the two holes is only going to keep tearing further and further down until they become a chasm and as you said that would be your least favourable outcome. So I would attempt to completely fill in one hole with suitable material and then seal off the entrance. Then I would attempt to mould the outer areas and entrance of the remaining hole.

lightfootted · Post by **lightfootted** » Thu Oct 12, 2023 11:35 pm

Thank you everyone, I really appreciate it. I’ve ordered an Elsababe insert from MyRobotdoll - my first attempt, I plan to trim it down to size and glue it in place to fill the cavity, aligning the entrance with the vaginal entrance (or what’s left of it). I’ll try either the glue dparson recommended or silpoxy, depending on what works best. Hopefully that will give me a decent looking result without much craftsmanship at an affordable price. At this point the tearing has stopped, so I just need a way to fill that gap and bring the entrance closer to the surface, while still presenting some semblance of the female anatomy. Worst case, I may use a penis adaptor and live out some different fantasies. I’ll post an update when I’m done for anyone else in future who finds themselves in this situation. Cheers!

dparson · Post by **dparson** » Fri Oct 13, 2023 7:06 pm

Wanted to let you know that I started work on my own repair using the silicone adhesive I previously linked and it is indeed much softer and flexible than sil-poxy. Before finding it I used sil-poxy and found it too firm and uncomfortable so I cut out my previous repair and am using this new adhesive in its place. In the pictures below the sil-poxy is the clear stuff while this no-name adhesive has a flesh color.

It has a thinner viscosity than sil-poxy so it won't hold its shape during application, so creating a form is necessary when rebuilding cut-out areas. In my own situation I used a piece of tape to create a dam and filled the area, and you can see how it spread out which is very unlike sil-poxy which retains its shape during application.

During my initial test this silicone adhesive set up in about 30 minutes and I'm letting it dry right now. I'm going to go back and fill in the area a little more because it settled more than expected. So trial and error but I think this product is superior to sil-poxy for sensitive areas. I'll update with more when I complete the repair.

Update: my repair was not dry after 30 minutes. It's thicker than the test I did on the paper towel so I'm going to let it sit overnight. The top part of the repair was firm enough to allow application of another layer on top so I went ahead and added another layer to build the repair higher. So far so good though!

lightfootted · Post by **lightfootted** » Sat Oct 14, 2023 12:38 pm

dparson - wow, that looks really good! I had the same issue, the silpoxy I used was the wrong color and texture, and removing it damaged my doll further (admittedly I may have used the wrong type of silpoxy). However that version looks much better. I like how you used tape to create a "well" for it to pool into, gives you a nice smooth line. I'm going to order some - even if my experiment with an insert works, I'm going to need an adhesive to smooth out the nearby scar tissue.

dparson · Post by **dparson** » Sat Oct 14, 2023 3:55 pm

lightfootted - I think this silicone adhesive will be perfect for the repair you're doing, it will fill the gaps around the insert you're installing and probably won't require any type of mold-making since you'll be able to orient the doll upside down when gluing everything together. Definitely take progress pictures when you do it!

On my end I discovered the silicone adhesive stuck extremely well to the doll and to the tape, so much so that I had to cut it away from the tape. I should have used a release agent like powder, baby oil, or vaseline. Any cuts I did to the dried adhesive were extremely noticeable, so I've learned it's best to leave it be and not try to shape it after the adhesive dries. I shaped the adhesive with a toothpick during the initial application but it flattened out over time, so I think building up thin layers to create complex shapes is possible but other than that, a mold is necessary.

After cutting away the tape a small divot was left but I will fill it by holding the doll upside down and filling it in with the adhesive. It's hard to see in person so I might not bother.

The adhesive left a really smooth surface since it levels itself (unlike the sil-poxy) so it is much more comfortable in this sensitive area. Even though it is softer than sil-poxy, it's still more firm than the doll's silicone so I'm not 100% happy with the repair. If I could do it again I'd try this stuff https://www.amazon.com/Ecoflex-00-20-Su ... B01DUYKHGY since it might result in a softer feel. The silicone adhesive seems to be a little thicker and easier to manage than raw silicone but since the adhesive required a bit of a mold, I'm less scared to try pure silicone. Making a mold with some putty like https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Fun-Tak- ... B003LZMHIY might work.

For now I'm happy with the repair and will report back if it doesn't hold up, but so far it's working well.

dparson · Post by **dparson** » Mon Oct 16, 2023 1:59 pm

I re-did my repair to take into account the lessons learned from attempt #1. I didn't open the legs as wide this time and only used thin coats of the adhesive. I didn't attempt to shape the repair with sissors like last time and now the repair feels extremely smooth and 100% comfortable, maybe even better than new since the area is so much more durable. The thin coats dried after 30 minutes so it was easy to build up the layers. I didn't use any tape this time and simply used thin coats and positioned the doll for gravity to help...at one point she was standing on her head when I was filling in that one divot shown previously. I'm really happy with the repair now and am glad to have found a way to fix this sensitive area better than using sil-poxy.

The first picture shows the legs completely closed and now the repair does not bunch up like last time.
The second picture shows the legs opened up. There's a lot less stress in the area, everything is smooth with no hard edges, and no more rough and uncomfortable sil-poxy!

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Mon Oct 16, 2023 3:41 pm

Dang! That is excellent work for someone so new to working with this stuff

Gaijin · Post by **Gaijin** » Mon Oct 16, 2023 5:54 pm

It's a bit off-topic, but I think you should feel comfortable naming the manufacturer. From your description, this doll was clearly designed poorly, and potential buyers of their dolls need to know the risks.

Rotgut_the_bloated · Post by **Rotgut_the_bloated** » Tue Oct 17, 2023 11:18 am

I also bought a small doll, 60 cm in size, whose vagina tore already first day. As she is small her legs needs to be stretched wide. She is silicone. But now she is 1 year old and she has cuts and damages all over arms and legs. And vagina looks like i put a dynamite in it.