The Doll Forum

Hitdoll wrote:

manfredixon wrote:

abbadon31 wrote:If this is HR when the seams should be seamless, Can't be HR with seam lines present. Thant just threws the whole look off

I absolutely agree with this! It's a solid deal breaker for sure. Apart from that she looks amazing. Such a shame.

There are three choices about the silicone with H.R..
1. Do H.R. work normally, like this 162. As the seam stands a bit upper, more pigment attaches on it and makes it more noticeable.
2. Do H.R. work normally. After finished, clean up the extra pigment on it. In this way, the seam is still or even more noticeable as it shows the original skin tone without H.R., differing from the whole body.
3. Weaken the H.R. work near the seam. If so, the area along the seam is a bit different from other parts of the body.
As I mentioned, if you care the seam a lot, the best choice for you is TPE, on which most seam can be disposed.

Best regards,
Kevin

Just trying to learn here,and maybe clarify the process in my mind. So, as someone else mentioned, is there no way to clean the seam to where it is flush with the rest of the skin, then smooth it, and only after all that, then apply the texture via a stamp, then apply HR? That way there would be far less for the HR to "cling"to and be less noticeable.

I ask, because my only experience is working in a bronze foundry, working on the wax molds for sculptures. My whole job was basically making the seams disappear. After they left my dept., they would then be passed on to be "plastered", then off to the bronze boys.

Dolls are all very new to me, so i was surprised that the more silicones I looked at, the more I noticed all of them had quite visible seams, to one degree or another. Some going so far as to be still raised (not flush), as if they had barely been trimmed or shaved down at all. It seems to be a major shortcoming that the majority of the industry just accepted long ago, and never revisited fully.

As far as vagina stretch. I think the poster above is onto something with the increased area of pubic fat (mons), effectively separating it from the legs to some degree.

Anyway, still a very pretty gal you have there. Despite the shortcomings of the process, I still love the effect the HR has on bringing these gals to life.

Hi Scoob

About your observation.
1. After initial moving, joints turn a little loosened. This is why we make it a little tighter at the beginning.
2. Boss knew this. And you are right. It is about the mold. We made her with the palm facing up(front). You would meet the same problem when putting the palm up if we make her palms downward in the mold.
3. The range of most joints are not set as human in case of damages. So just don't care too much when having fun. But just don't hurt it on purpose.
4. Just try to make it straight. Lie the leg on the floor to see if anywhere bent. Or are you trying to make her legs meeting each other? Actually she is not able to do so.

About final thoughts
1. Most people have some unhappy experience when buying a doll, no matter newbies or experienced owners. And it is quite unavoidable because you make your decision only through photos, videos and some describtions from venders and manufacturers. Oh maybe some more comments from previous owners. On the other hand, according to the amazing info, you will highly expect about what you are getting. When something wrong occurs, you will be pretty disappointed and consider it as a liar or a trick. Scoob holds a good attitude all the time, even when two issues came to him. I even think that I am more nervous and upset than him.
2. Any trial without enough budget is not recommanded, even aiming to a TPE doll. No reason or explanation.
3. One more 16? is upcoming. No more plans about new molds. Maybe I am not authorized to know.

About suggestions
1. That's quite difficult because no bones there.
2. We have achieved it and it is available now. You will customize it in your next purchase, right?
3. That's not a good idea. Wire is the properest for fingers. Okay, stop talking about it or I will be shouted by others.
4. Boss has told me to find some good asses. I am looking around.
5. Report to boss.
6. Seams are more noticable within H.R.. I have explained it in forty's thread.
7. Nope. As time goes by, you will find that jiggle is not as worthy as resilience and resistance of tearing which make the doll more durable.
8. That will get much profit. But if so for boss, it is meaningless to make such a improvement. Do you agree?

Kevin

Hitdoll wrote: 6. Seams are more noticable within H.R.. I have explained it in forty's thread.

Kevin

Not to quibble, but the order of procedure I asked about was not gone over previously by anyone. So, perhaps even another forum member may be able to explain why what I suggested is impossible. I have never worked casting anything other than wax or bronze so I'm just trying to understand why things are the way they are.
Again, I hope my question doesn't come off as combative. I just can't help but feel there is a better way. And if there isn't, then I would like to know more about the process, so I can't understand why it isn't.

Hi C.A.
I am not missing your posts on purpose. Instead, I am asking boss and workers about what you mentioned.
In my opinion, silicone for wax is 20-30 degrees hard. It is firm enough to be cut perfectly. Silicone for dolls here is 0 degree hard. It cannot stand well to be cut.
More info about this will come in my next post.

Kevin

Further info from boss and workers is that we will work in the third way.
3. Weaken the H.R. work near the seam. If so, the area along the seam is a bit different from other parts of the body.
As I mentioned, H.R. TPE has much less seams so you may choose a TPE with H.R. if you do care about it.

Kevin

Wow , good thing it was raining all day . I read this from top to bottom..
and
I am still on the fence as to buying...

The textures are really something, are the fingers your typical wires or articulated joints like gynoid and sinodolls?

IMNL4L wrote:The textures are really something, are the fingers your typical wires or articulated joints like gynoid and sinodolls?

We are still using the wires for fingers as we consider it is more durable than the current articulated joints which cannot be blended frequently in short time. Otherwise the joints will be loosened.

Best,
Kevin

Wow that a nice review,glad someone doing it,those doll cost lots of money,if we can avoid people wasting their money on not good quality product, that a life saver

Thanks for taking the time to write this review, Scoob.

I just found out about IL Doll / Hit Doll today and found your pictures, review, and experience with them very helpful for prospective buyers. I'm glad some of the initial issues has been resolved and hopefully everything else will be fine going forward.

In my opinion the realism finish is a good option, but I find some of them to be over done from what I can see in the manufacturer's photos (all brands in general). I find it ironic that girls use make-up and filters to smooth out their skin and hide blemishes in real life; yet here we are creating textured skins and pigmentation for our dolls to give them some imperfection to look more life like.