The Doll Forum

If your after weight reduction why not wrap the skeleton with a thicker wrap sort of like this then it will still keep there body's soft and squishable because the base will be squishable but not too thick a layer where the tpe or silicone is to thin... It would shave off a few pounds not all but a few and if you put it over the joint it would take longer for the joint to poke through. And with there being less tpe in the center of the. Doll she would warm up quicker because there wouldnt be as much tpe to try to warm

How about being one of the first manufactures to use fully articulated fingers instead of wires for their dolls. Utilize something similar to what Phicen / TBLeague use in their 1/6 scale bodies. Those skeletons would be a great jumping point


Also for lighter dolls, would it be possible to make a tpe doll in 2 pours. The first pour being the inner core with air blown in to create many air pockets, less inner material = less weight. The 2nd pour for the outer skin. Similar to how some silicone manufactures use foam as an inner material and silicone for an outer.

I like the air blown idea better they could do almost all the body that way and it would still be soft and they could do almost the whole doll like this then thin coat the outside.... I was also thinking in the main body off the doll what iff you guys put a big plastic box that stayed full of air then it he stumach and chest wouldnt have a lot of material also decreasing weight BUT KEEP THE TITTIES PURE TPE lol jk just keep soft and cupable

Also maybe the upper legs and thicker limb sections you could put like a plastic pipe around the skeleton to take up more space?

Here is a simple one... Please make the leg joints tighter (ankles, knees, thighs) on dolls with the standing feet option!

Chris98king wrote:If your after weight reduction why not wrap the skeleton with a thicker wrap sort of like this then it will still keep there body's soft and squishable because the base will be squishable but not too thick a layer where the tpe or silicone is to thin... It would shave off a few pounds not all but a few and if you put it over the joint it would take longer for the joint to poke through. And with there being less tpe in the center of the. Doll she would warm up quicker because there wouldnt be as much tpe to try to warm

AFAIK normal foam products will be destroyed when the TPE is hot-poured. Likewise an initial pour of foamed TPE will be melted when the second TPE pour is done.

For the necessary heat resistance If there is such a thing as foamed silicone of a type that will not react with TPE then this might be usable.

Alternatively how about a hollow aluminium [US = aluminum ] chest insert fitted round the spine. It could be moulded to feel somewhat like a rib cage and could pay for itself by reducing the TPE needed.

nicvncnt wrote:

Chris98king wrote:If your after weight reduction why not wrap the skeleton with a thicker wrap sort of like this then it will still keep there body's soft and squishable because the base will be squishable but not too thick a layer where the tpe or silicone is to thin... It would shave off a few pounds not all but a few and if you put it over the joint it would take longer for the joint to poke through. And with there being less tpe in the center of the. Doll she would warm up quicker because there wouldnt be as much tpe to try to warm

AFAIK normal foam products will be destroyed when the TPE is hot-poured. Likewise an initial pour of foamed TPE will be melted when the second TPE pour is done.

For the necessary heat resistance If there is such a thing as foamed silicone of a type that will not react with TPE then this might be usable.

Alternatively how about a hollow aluminium [US = aluminum ] chest insert fitted
round the spine. It could be moulded to feel somewhat like a rib cage and could pay for itself by reducing the TPE needed.

I guess I should of thought of that I forgot how hot it is that tpe melts

How about making a plate in the foot that holds the tpe away from the standing bolts I know that the feet are always getting chewed up around that spot

Chris98king wrote:

nicvncnt wrote:

Chris98king wrote:If your after weight reduction why not wrap the skeleton with a thicker wrap sort of like this then it will still keep there body's soft and squishable because the base will be squishable but not too thick a layer where the tpe or silicone is to thin... It would shave off a few pounds not all but a few and if you put it over the joint it would take longer for the joint to poke through. And with there being less tpe in the center of the. Doll she would warm up quicker because there wouldnt be as much tpe to try to warm

AFAIK normal foam products will be destroyed when the TPE is hot-poured. Likewise an initial pour of foamed TPE will be melted when the second TPE pour is done.

For the necessary heat resistance If there is such a thing as foamed silicone of a type that will not react with TPE then this might be usable.

Alternatively how about a hollow aluminium [US = aluminum ] chest insert fitted
round the spine. It could be moulded to feel somewhat like a rib cage and could pay for itself by reducing the TPE needed.

I guess I should of thought of that I forgot how hot it is that tpe melts

A fishnet stocking stuffed with ping pong balls tied to the spine.

Different textured inserts? I don't know if that is a thing or not yet

The cheapest thing to do without waiting is reducing your dolls weight for a neglectible cost;
1. by using an hollow box ribcage like HUNAN HELLOMISS and MYDOLL already do.That is an hollow box made of fiberglass resin or SST grid with small mesh.This box is fitted trough weldings on the skeleton. There is no change to the mould.Real women have a rigid ribcage!
2. By fitting two thigh pipe of a bigger diameter. Same for the calves.
3. improving your TPE mix in order to reduce its density. I measured recently a .9 Density TPE for very soft TPE, but .8 is achievable. That make another ten per cent of body weight off.
That way you would be able to advertise for example that you made a dream-body 165cm tall with realistic ratios and thickness at 33 kgs instead of 43 kgs and so on for smaller dolls.The hollow ribcage remove 4 to 8 kgs where it count the most when you need to rise your doll on her feet.

Dont forget also to fit your anatomicaly correct dolls with realisticaly drawn puffed fertile type genitals.

Articulated fingers!
Articulated fingers!
Articulated fingers!
Mouths that open and close.
Standing feet that hide the bolts.
Shorter necks. (realistic neck lengths)

So many requests for better hands, feet and skeletons in general.

I know that the dolls are designed to compete at a price point that the doll manufacturer thinks is best for volume sales. This means compromise is necessary to keep cost down.

How about SM offer a choice of a standard skeleton or a "premium" skeleton with the better hands and joints we all desire. I think the more serious doll enthusiasts would be willing to pay +$200. if the skeleton was ball joint and had nice , durable hands. And for those that are sensitive to price can still get a standard skeleton and not be priced out of the market.

Metricnut

Like we already got it with the "normal skeleton / shrugging shoulders skeleton" option

Metricnut wrote:So many requests for better hands, feet and skeletons in general.

I know that the dolls are designed to compete at a price point that the doll manufacturer thinks is best for volume sales. This means compromise is necessary to keep cost down.

How about SM offer a choice of a standard skeleton or a "premium" skeleton with the better hands and joints we all desire. I think the more serious doll enthusiasts would be willing to pay +$200. if the skeleton was ball joint and had nice , durable hands. And for those that are sensitive to price can still get a standard skeleton and not be priced out of the market.

Metricnut

Thankyou for all suggestion