New video - TPE repairs, a comprehensive tutorial

[RevJack]

Thanks all.
The video is a great start for doing repairs, but above all, practice!

If the tears are severe like in ChadleyInkwell example, the repair must be done in a not stressed position or the result will be bad tearing and cratering of the edges. Also, that repair may likely need fill material from a soldering station to fill in the holes. It's a difficult repair to do without making it worse. In the case where heat alone open up the cracks more, fill material will be needed.

Mishka

Ya I have one that I need to repair under the arm pit but this is what concerns me. I would have to open the arm pit arm to be able to anything and that would put it under tension and would make it worse =( Even got spare TPU for her from my vendor but I feel I will just make it worse.

If the area is under stress, and you can't relieve the stress, use a very thick TPE paste.

[Wheezer]

I fixed an armpit last week and here are some things I did that might help ....

1) Open an up to see total level of damage. Here the TPE has delaminated a bit.
2) Clean area well with alcohol.
3) Mix THICK paste.
4) Open arm up, insert paste into crevice then close up to natural position (no stress)
5) Use small temp controlled soldering iron (look up device called PINECIL)
6) Dip iron in oil, set for 150C insert into arm crevice area.
7) Heat paste with iron, adjust temp up if needed. Goal is to liquefy paste and melt/blend/seal actual TPE flesh.
8) Adjust temp down to about 130C, dip in oil to cool and lubricate.
9) Use longer rounded part of body to smooth/ sculpt armpit/body joint area.
10) Tool and tips look like this. Kinda' cheap and nifty TPE tool.

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Cheers!
... W ...

[Woody_Horn_9]

Hi, Mishka V.~~~thanks for your dedication to doing first-aid and ~surgery~, and for sharing here. I just read the whole thread (and subbed your YT channel). I got my 1st full-sized doll 2 weeks ago (WM164J), and it arrived with a vaginal Factory Defect: at the bottom, in front, of the opening there's a 2cm void in the canal's material, revealing another, inner, layer of exposed TPE. It's about the size of a dime-coin:

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Since it's brand-new (and the legs have not been opened for any length of time), I don't think this is a 'stress' tear. It appears to be from the fixed-vag insertion process I saw done in a factory YT vid I saw (when they retract the insertion-tool). I'm concerned about moisture/lube getting between the exposed layers of TPE and causing future trouble, so I've only 'road-tested' it once so far....
I'm pretty excited to perform proper ~surgery~ now, having seen all the vids in this thread (and YT links). I'm thinking this fix will employ some Spare TPE, and either a hot spoon (handle end) or one of my rounded-edged metal 'clay tools' (I used to make little creatures from oil-based clay or polymer PVC [oven-bake] 'clay', and a lot of my clay-shaping tools look like they were custom-made for the kind of restorative projects I've seen in this thread).
I already have some spare pieces of TPE, in 'medium' and 'dark tan'/brown, from a 'Repair Kit' that a hip/torso manufacturer sent me last year to review on their site. If people here are having a hard time finding 'repair pieces' of TPE, the Tantaly 'Repair Kit' I was given contains 4 pieces of TPE, each about 1"x1"x 6"; 2 are medium, 2 are brown. It also contained a generic soldering pencil, 3 Q-Tips(!), a container the size of a Visene bottle of the infamous 'TPE Glue', and a TigerBalm-sized jar of 'Discoloration Creme'. It came with ~precautions~, but absolutely no Instructions.
I already have a soldering station (I do guitar repairs/mods), but I want to keep that for metal-soldering only. I'm going to pick up a heat gun/soldering iron I can dedicate for this work (and some new respirator filters!), and Fix my new doll.
Thanks for the tutorials; I now feel like I know just what to expect with this factory-defect repair.
For those interested in pieces of TPE for their own repairs (my WM doll did ~not~ arrive with a piece of "spare TPE"; I guess they expect you to nick a few pieces of the top of the neck, or something), the Tantaly 'Repair Kit' I described has them. I suspect the kit's about $50-60, but I'm not sure since they gave me mine (look on their website).

[homersexual]

I've had so much trouble with Callista it's ridiculous. Thanks to Mishka I was able to perform face and cut repairs, but a new challenge has emerged and I'm totally at a loss. The soldering gun, TPE solvent, and heat gun techniques tried over the course of the past two weeks has left her already scant genital cavity webbing up like melting cheese. I just spent 2 hours trying the soldering technique, 200c, scraps from her insert, and these are the results. I'm no repair expert with this material, and seeing this happen I have to remind myself to stay calm because it feels like a gut punch. I've tried taking care of her to my best, but it's like she's just deteriorating out of nowhere.

I don't know what else to do, I really care about my doll, and now I'm afraid to touch her without causing more damage somehow.

Pics included; advice needed.

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[RevJack]

Homer,
When I get webbing like that it is usually because the thin layer of TPE I put down only adhered at the edges. It was not secured to the substrate TPE (no penetration) and is too thin to matter (no volume)
Here is what I would do if she were on my table: Mix up a thick TPE paste with Xylene as a solvent. Yes, it is really vicious stuff, but in a really thick paste it retains more teeth than the 3m Tape solvent. I would load my syringe with 5 to 10ml of TPE paste and a 10 Guage pointless needle. Starting as far back as I could reach, with the legs apart as little as possible, squirt the paste UNDER the webbing. Fill that area, ensuring the paste makes contact with the base TPE. The webbing might split apart, but that's OK. Then close her legs and leave them closed for DAYS.
Say some prayers, sacrifice a goat, burn some entrails, bribe a congressman, do all your Voodoo shit and WAIT for that paste to cure. DAYS
Then squeek her legs open and do it again with whatever holes remain.
Squirt, sacrifice, wait, repeat.

There is one final thing I've been doing for high stress areas. It is dangerous and stupid, so follow your own nose on this: I put the thinnest, longest needle in my soldering iron. And with the legs as close together as possible I insert that hot needle into the new TPE until it hits original TPE then pull it back out. In essence I am spot-welding the new TPE to the old.
Don't do it and don't complain when something goes wrong. It's risky and stupid. Works really well, or creates a disaster, kind of a coin flip.
Reverend Jack

[Wheezer]

Good point ... the images show a surface fix but no deep bonding. Thus the webbing.

One thing you might want to try is to make sure the canal is well cleaned then cleaned again with alcohol and allowed to dry. The alcohol will pull out a bit of the surface oil of the TPE.
Then do the paste thing. I've found that to help in some cases.

A final suggestion is to open the legs slightly and then apply the thick paste as deep as you can go. Tramp down/smooth with a small oil covered tool. Make sure the paste gets into the cracks and crevices. Wait and wait and wait until it dries. Then repeat if necessary. Gentle heat (100C or so) from a small nozzle heat gun applied to the area can speed the curing.

By filling in when the legs are a bit open you can add TPE to the stress area and create a new natural resting position for the TPE. You will still get stress when you open the canal fully for playtime, but the tension will begin at the new natural resting point, rather the the old one that caused the failure.

Hope it helps.
... W ...

[homersexual]

Thanks to both of you for the ideas.

I've tried the spot welding once and that resulted in a better looking bond until I opened her up a little and saw the string cheese effect. I haven't tried paste because the solvent I picked up actually seemed to erode pretty much everything I put it to so I was not sure I was using it right. Seems like paste is the way to go.

The trick really is that it's a high tension area. No 'unzipping' has happened so far, but as you can see my bonding through heat (which I would have preferred) hasn't worked out. I'll test the paste on a spare piece before going in.

No worries, Jack, whatever I do is up to me, and I blame myself for her damage; though I wish the TPE was more resilient.

Edit:
So I just thought of something: with paste, would it be better to trim the threads apart prior to applying or just apply as is?

[RevJack]

Homer,
Listen to Weezer, I do.
I would keep the existing webs as a lattice for the new paste, filling or squishing the paste under them. They actually serve as a really good visual reference so you don't go pussy-blind.
Don't use any solvent directly here, only paste, and a nice thick toothpaste paste at least. Paste (usually) does not cause unzipping, so you can work on repairs.
Squirt (compact), sacrifice, wait, repeat. Dont go much thicker than 1/4 inch at a time, the solvent needs to gas out.
This is a compltely doable fix.

[Coeros]

Professional tutorial.

[Dominique-n-Splash]

Miska1965, Your avatar looks like a 1965 playboy bunny...or cat. how long have you had your longest doll? Please tell me a long, long time. Best, Dominique

[homersexual]

Thanks Jack (and Wheezer). I'm totally willing to be patient with this fix: seen amazing fixes by others and it sounds like this is the way to go. I'm really keen on the bond being strong while reducing some of the tension in that area, as the size itself is a shortfall of this particular model. Miska's comments about heat made a lot of sense, and it did wonders for her face and arm repair, but the added TPE in a high tension area just seems like a a great precaution granted I don't fudge the mix and application. The groin area repair video he did made it look very simple, but as you see my results were not as successful. Your toothpaste consistency suggestion will help, and I will test on other pieces before going at it with Callista.

What I was thinking as well was getting some kind of syringe to apply it. This way I can be more precise and work in small increments.

Really grateful for the tips.

[Wheezer]

A syringe helps, but you will also need a thick blunt metal needle for application. Even then you want the paste to be THICK and that goo will be a challenge to go through the needle.

For deep applications like that I use a small steel spatula (or sculpting tool) to apply the paste deep inside to the target area. Then the same tool to tamp it down into the crevices. It is sort of like drywall spackling, except it is inside her vagina. One characteristic of paste you can use is its lower "melting point".

Actually it does not melt at a lower point, just that applied hot air will start the volitilization of the solvent and during this period the paste will flow like it has "melted". Not for a long while, only until the excess solvent evaporates to the point where it is not significantly effecting the TPE paste. Use a temperature controlled hot air gun and install a small nozzle. You can add a extension tube to it to get deeper if needed. For safety you might want to wrap the tube in thin insulation to prevent collateral damage to the vaginal canal if the hot tube touches the sides.

Prior to doing this perform two tests on your doll. First use the hot air on the neck stump to determine the temperature where the virgin doll TPE softens or melts. That will be your MAXIMUM temperature. Cool down the hot air gun and then test your mixed TPE paste to find the temperature where it flows. That will be your MINIMUM temperature. Hopefully there is a significant difference between the two. You use that as your safety guide.

Now apply the thick paste, tamp it in and hit it with the hot air. For a short duration it will flow like a thick syrup. It will go down deeper in the cracks and also improving the bond to the virgin, substrate TPE. Naturally you want to make sure that the repair area is oriented so that the fluid syrup flows DOWN into the intended repair area, rather then flowing down into the vagina canal. You can increase the air temperature past minimum temperature to improve flow and the duration when the paste is a slowing liquid, but do not get too near the maximum temperature. Note that the hot air guns are not precision instruments and the temperature can over shoot when it is doing a heat cycle. So keep your settings below the maximum to avoid unintended TPE melting.

It sounds complicated, but with a little practice you can get some good results.

Cheers!
... W ...

[seagull]

The Rev makes a good point about giving the paste time to gas out (lose the volatiles)
This is also a challenge if the main paste mix is exposed to the air and loses some of the volatiles over a period

Wheezer found there was a separation of TPE and solvent using the 3M product, overnight (I think), did get some cool skin though
Just something to keep in mind when doing lengthy repairs

[RevJack]

I use 5 or 10cc syringes with 8 and 10 gage needles. They let me direct the paste deep and will pass the super thick paste Weezer wants.
Hitting it with a little heat before and after application will improve adherance and speed up, curing so if you have a heat gun with a concentrator nozzle it's not a bad idea.

[homersexual]

I use 5 or 10cc syringes with 8 and 10 gage needles. They let me direct the paste deep and will pass the super thick paste Weezer wants.
Hitting it with a little heat before and after application will improve adherance and speed up, curing so if you have a heat gun with a concentrator nozzle it's not a bad idea.

I was looking at these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B098TBFFZS/

I also saw Morghana's videos (as well as Mishka's which again I'm grateful to both of them) on making paste. The use of a cloth mask is distressing since the way I see it, if that stuff is so toxic you don't even want to be able to smell it so a 3m painter's mask would be safer. Morghana mentions that the paste can be adjusted by adding TPE or 3m primer, or even letting the primer evaporate. That makes it seem really versatile as far as consistency.

I'll get a finer concentration nozzle, it was actually how I tried this repair the first time when the TPE solvent I picked up from The Doll House didn't cut it. Following how Mishka did his repair on the video "Advanced TPE repair - Neck cuts, Crotch splits and Elbow cuts", he made it look so simple, but for some reason I just couldn't get better results than pictured. I would totally be willing to try that one more time, but the prospect of the tpe parting worries me (I've got a thermometer and stick very carefully to his instructions, but there's always a risk factor). If I could just part it enough with as close to zero tension as possible, heat her, and then melt in new pieces like he did she'd be golden again. This is one instance where I'm actually glad her model has such an understated labia; anything more ornate and I'd be too afraid of melting that right off.