Do-it-yourself doll made of textiles, padding polyester and plastic tubes
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Re: Do-it-yourself doll made of textiles, padding polyester and plastic tubes
Re: Do-it-yourself doll made of textiles, padding polyester and plastic tubes
Spider Hill has a nice skeleton joint kit for Halloween props. I was thinking about using it for my next plush doll project.proteangriffin76 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 11, 2024 10:06 pm Where do you get the skeleton from? I'd like to make my own lightweight torso with M16 connection since I don't see many in the market.
https://www.spiderhillpropworks.com/Sin ... _p_19.html
Re: Do-it-yourself doll made of textiles, padding polyester and plastic tubes
For dolls taller than 120cm, it's necessary to smear powder made from crushed resin (the kind that you apply on a violin bow--you easy find resin on Amazon) in order to increase friction therefore stiffness of the joints.
The knitted girl is my production. The black girl was not made by me.
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Re: Do-it-yourself doll made of textiles, padding polyester and plastic tubes
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Re: Do-it-yourself doll made of textiles, padding polyester and plastic tubes
Although I've never tried yet myself, combination of plastic pipes and VVF cables seems to be effective but also more economical.
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Re: Do-it-yourself doll made of textiles, padding polyester and plastic tubes
By the way. I forgot to mention from the very beginning that all my dolls have a skeleton of hands (palms and fingers) made of aluminum wire tightly covered with pieces of fabric.
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Re: Do-it-yourself doll made of textiles, padding polyester and plastic tubes
Re: Do-it-yourself doll made of textiles, padding polyester and plastic tubes
I've used the Spyder Hill joints quite a lot. As designed, they are locking joints, and you need access to the wing-nut to listen and re-pose them. I have three "modifications" I have made to the joints to enable them to remain internal. In all cases the wing nut has to be replaced with a nyloc nut.Mr Franz wrote: ↑Thu Apr 11, 2024 10:35 pmSpider Hill has a nice skeleton joint kit for Halloween props. I was thinking about using it for my next plush doll project.proteangriffin76 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 11, 2024 10:06 pm Where do you get the skeleton from? I'd like to make my own lightweight torso with M16 connection since I don't see many in the market.
https://www.spiderhillpropworks.com/Sin ... _p_19.html
Screenshot 2024-04-11 10.31.43 PM.png
1) a one inch diameter nylon washer inserted between the teeth in the joint faces. This is a good solution for free-swinging joints, no friction.
2) a thick felt washer (hand cut) between the teeth. This gave me some resistance to movement. It chews up the felt pretty fast, needing replacement, but the theory is sound.
3) extend the bolt and insert a spring between the outer joint surface and nut. It gives you a "clicking" movement of the joints. Determining the tension is the tricky part, trial and error.
Reverend Jack
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Re: Do-it-yourself doll made of textiles, padding polyester and plastic tubes
Thanks. Yeah, Spider Hill mentions that on their site. They recommend and supply flat washers for that purpose, but I was thinking about maybe using a serrated washer with a lock nut to provide more resistance.RevJack wrote: ↑Fri Apr 12, 2024 8:44 amI've used the Spyder Hill joints quite a lot. As designed, they are locking joints, and you need access to the wing-nut to listen and re-pose them. I have three "modifications" I have made to the joints to enable them to remain internal. In all cases the wing nut has to be replaced with a nyloc nut.Mr Franz wrote: ↑Thu Apr 11, 2024 10:35 pmSpider Hill has a nice skeleton joint kit for Halloween props. I was thinking about using it for my next plush doll project.proteangriffin76 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 11, 2024 10:06 pm Where do you get the skeleton from? I'd like to make my own lightweight torso with M16 connection since I don't see many in the market.
https://www.spiderhillpropworks.com/Sin ... _p_19.html
Screenshot 2024-04-11 10.31.43 PM.png
1) a one inch diameter nylon washer inserted between the teeth in the joint faces. This is a good solution for free-swinging joints, no friction.
2) a thick felt washer (hand cut) between the teeth. This gave me some resistance to movement. It chews up the felt pretty fast, needing replacement, but the theory is sound.
3) extend the bolt and insert a spring between the outer joint surface and nut. It gives you a "clicking" movement of the joints. Determining the tension is the tricky part, trial and error.
Reverend Jack
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Re: Do-it-yourself doll made of textiles, padding polyester and plastic tubes
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Re: Do-it-yourself doll made of textiles, padding polyester and plastic tubes
I’ve got some ideas to add heating and a beating heart as well.
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Re: Do-it-yourself doll made of textiles, padding polyester and plastic tubes
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Re: Do-it-yourself doll made of textiles, padding polyester and plastic tubes
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