Elsa Babe 160cm L-cup REVIEW

[just a guy]

Plan A didn't work. The metal is just too tough to be drilled with hand drill. I couldn't do nothing with the cobalt drill it just didn't bite at all so I went with plan B.

I first put the epox to the screw and the wrench socket. Let it sit 10 minutes. Seems the epox is super tough. the socket stayed there so then I put epoxt around the wrench socket and then lift the upper body and put the metal pipe on to the socket so the soket is now inside the back bone pipe. Socket was only 2,1 cm wide so there's more room than the other socket I had which is 2,5cm. Since the socket I bought has lenght like 6-8 cm it was very hard to lift the body since I had to stretch it so much. This is why I also bought leghty socket so if / when the back bone pipe comes off it doesn't just fall of like that.

I now let the thing sit 10 minutes and then try to lift the upper body. If the body sit's nicely I then wash the back since it's very dirty now and then sealed it with silicone glue. I had accidentally cutted the back too low when I first made the opening cut to the back and had to glue it together. Silicone glue has done it's job greatly and the scar is almost invisible so I know that the current opening can be sealed nicely too

[just a guy]

here's photo os the socket wrench with epox added. the back bone pipe sits on top of it. also 10 minutes just went up. I tested and seems the body holds in place and can't be lifted, but it has this wobble in it becuase the is room between the socket and the back bone pipe. Still seems to hold. I'' leave it for a while and then start to wash the back in order to seal it with silicone glue. if there's no hassle this seems to be it and the doll is fixed.

hylsy ja selkäputki (2).jpg (179.93 KiB) Viewed 726 times

hylsy ja selkäputki (3).jpg (501.91 KiB) Viewed 726 times

Here's the epox I used

epoksi.jpg (385.29 KiB) Viewed 723 times

[just a guy]

I just tested and the doll can be lifted holding the armpits adn the epoxy still holds. I think it's time to start cleaning the back and then seal it with silicone
The doll seems to be repaired I will next put up photos the back after it has been sealed. The silicone glue I let stay 12 hours so those photos comes tomorrow or later.

[Gaijin]

Good luck!

[baphometric]

Hope that it goes well, thanks for sharing your method of repair!

[just a guy]

yeah epoxy for metal is the way to go. I have now applied silicone glue and waiting tomorrow it to "harden". the scar is going to be bigger this time since I couldn't align the seams as well as before.

[Norbud]

Cool Well done trying this repair.

[just a guy]

yeah it broke again. I bent the back forward and then the epoxy gave up. the wrench socket sits now inside the back bone pipe, but isn't attached to the nut anymore so back to start again. Also seems I didn't make good enough silicone mix since it wasn't cured. Well that is good news since I don't need to make another cut since the cut is open now.

I think the epoxy by itself just isn't strong enough since there is so much pressure on the back when bending it. I think the only solution is to drill hole and put prick through the back bone pipe and the nut it will take the biggest pressure and then also add epoxy. Like I said though the pipe is too tough to drill. I will test couple more time then have to think to get rid of the doll all together since it's useless as it is now if I can't fix it.

[Gaijin]

That sucks. I'm sorry.

[DarkMind1982]

So it went the hard way...
For this i can only advise diamond coated drill and cut through slowly.

[just a guy]

I don't hink the diamond srill helps since I can't put enough pressure on the pipe since on my other had I need to keep the silicone away of the drill and too much pressure the drill can esily slip. This has happened.

[Splittie]

I don't hink the diamond srill helps since I can't put enough pressure on the pipe since on my other had I need to keep the silicone away of the drill and too much pressure the drill can esily slip. This has happened.

just a guy:

Did you try first making a dimple as was advised below? This is super important.

...
Another key thing to Drilling into a piece of pipe is that you need a dimple or an indent in the pipe in order for the drill bit to Center into. Otherwise it will simply wander off the tube. The hardware store will have hardened Steel Center punches for this task.
...

If I understood correctly, you are also having trouble drilling as you need your second hand to hold the silicone skin away from the skeleton. What would help with this is a cheap spreader clamp. In the absence of this, perhaps jerry-rigging a circular retracter would work. I don't know the amount of pressure required to keep the silicone spread apart as I don't have a doll (yet), but here's a suggestion to allow you to free up one of your hands to make the work easier:

Find a larger diameter circular plastic tub (say, a yogurt container or larger). Cut the top 4-5" (10-12cm) off and place that circular piece in the hole in the doll's back to keep the skin spread apart as you work "inside" it's diameter. This would free up one of your hands to more securely hold the pipe as you first punch a dimple into the metal, and later as you drill.

A large empty tomato can would work as well, but you'd need tin snips or similar to cut it's height down to use in the same way.

[Norbud]

I would try to remove the part out of the body and have it welded at a workshop for a proper repair. Have you tried asking for a replacement part? Such a modular skeleton made of joints, bolts and nuts should be easy to replace parts for.

[just a guy]

I will not weld the doll and dont' take it to anybody to weld either.

I did made some sort of dimple yes. The silicone is very tough so the plastic cup has to be very sturdy.

[just a guy]

Still haven't received my new elsa babe doll. Just thought to mention this so people don't think the case is closed and I have been compensated.