Do-it-yourself doll made of textiles, padding polyester and plastic tubes

[Mister Designer]

my dolls do not have a full skeleton, except for 8 plastic tubes in the arms and legs

[Mr Franz]

Where do you get the skeleton from? I'd like to make my own lightweight torso with M16 connection since I don't see many in the market.

Spider Hill has a nice skeleton joint kit for Halloween props. I was thinking about using it for my next plush doll project.

https://www.spiderhillpropworks.com/Sin ... _p_19.html

Screenshot 2024-04-11 10.31.43 PM.png (421.68 KiB) Viewed 2077 times

[Mouette]

Plastic armature is great if you want high-quality posing--although a bit expensive.

For dolls taller than 120cm, it's necessary to smear powder made from crushed resin (the kind that you apply on a violin bow--you easy find resin on Amazon) in order to increase friction therefore stiffness of the joints.

The knitted girl is my production. The black girl was not made by me.

[Mouette]

Posesble fingers are achieved by combining different sizes of plastic armature.

[Mouette]

Sharing some photos which I found on the web.

Although I've never tried yet myself, combination of plastic pipes and VVF cables seems to be effective but also more economical.

[Mister Designer]

excellent solutions for making skeletons for textile dolls. took them into service. Thank you!
By the way. I forgot to mention from the very beginning that all my dolls have a skeleton of hands (palms and fingers) made of aluminum wire tightly covered with pieces of fabric.

[proteangriffin76]

Wow this is mad awesome stuff!!

[RevJack]

Where do you get the skeleton from? I'd like to make my own lightweight torso with M16 connection since I don't see many in the market.

Spider Hill has a nice skeleton joint kit for Halloween props. I was thinking about using it for my next plush doll project.

https://www.spiderhillpropworks.com/Sin ... _p_19.html

Screenshot 2024-04-11 10.31.43 PM.png

I've used the Spyder Hill joints quite a lot. As designed, they are locking joints, and you need access to the wing-nut to listen and re-pose them. I have three "modifications" I have made to the joints to enable them to remain internal. In all cases the wing nut has to be replaced with a nyloc nut.
1) a one inch diameter nylon washer inserted between the teeth in the joint faces. This is a good solution for free-swinging joints, no friction.
2) a thick felt washer (hand cut) between the teeth. This gave me some resistance to movement. It chews up the felt pretty fast, needing replacement, but the theory is sound.
3) extend the bolt and insert a spring between the outer joint surface and nut. It gives you a "clicking" movement of the joints. Determining the tension is the tricky part, trial and error.

Reverend Jack

[Mr Franz]

Where do you get the skeleton from? I'd like to make my own lightweight torso with M16 connection since I don't see many in the market.

Spider Hill has a nice skeleton joint kit for Halloween props. I was thinking about using it for my next plush doll project.

https://www.spiderhillpropworks.com/Sin ... _p_19.html

Screenshot 2024-04-11 10.31.43 PM.png

I've used the Spyder Hill joints quite a lot. As designed, they are locking joints, and you need access to the wing-nut to listen and re-pose them. I have three "modifications" I have made to the joints to enable them to remain internal. In all cases the wing nut has to be replaced with a nyloc nut.
1) a one inch diameter nylon washer inserted between the teeth in the joint faces. This is a good solution for free-swinging joints, no friction.
2) a thick felt washer (hand cut) between the teeth. This gave me some resistance to movement. It chews up the felt pretty fast, needing replacement, but the theory is sound.
3) extend the bolt and insert a spring between the outer joint surface and nut. It gives you a "clicking" movement of the joints. Determining the tension is the tricky part, trial and error.

Reverend Jack

Thanks. Yeah, Spider Hill mentions that on their site. They recommend and supply flat washers for that purpose, but I was thinking about maybe using a serrated washer with a lock nut to provide more resistance.

[JuanMonosLocos]

Enough information to continue trying a cute doll, thanks for sharing and let's continue

[MourningWood]

These are all very cool. I’d love to get my hands on some patterns. I’ve got a sewing machine I’ve never gotten around to learning, this seems like the perfect project to get started. I’d even be interested in paying for patterns.

I’ve got some ideas to add heating and a beating heart as well.

[Mister Designer]

Hello everyone and thank you for your attention to my work. In 2 hours I will post new photos of work on the Carol Connors doll.

[Mister Designer]

поди заждались голубы

[Mister Designer]

This is how I make hands for dolls. from aluminum wire and scraps of fabric