Modified Back B2
-
- Ex-Member
- Posts: 2396
- Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2007 12:00 am
- Location: Bay State
Modified Back B2
After opening her up you can see the top bolt had stripped out, but it was so short I thought it had broken.
Next remove the lower block so you can take out the dowel in the PVC pipe
With someones help to make things easier, remove the bolt that holds the aluminum dowel in place Then thread the big bolt in to remove the dowel.
"So that's what broke. Ouch!"
You can see how short the bolt was, and how little the set screw was holding. There was loctite on the set screw, but must not have been tight enough to hold the bolt from coming undone.
This is a hime joint that happens to be about the same size as the block that it replaces. It's also has longer bigger thread, and with the through bolt it won't be able to unscrew, even if the set screw doesn't hold.
After putting the joint in I had to put three 1/4"washers on either side to make up space. All parts are stainless and loctited.
You can now see how her back can move.
Clean the doll inside and out with acetone several times to be sure she is clean.
Use the Abyss adhesive on the entire cut but use a thin coat. A little goes a long ways. Clean up the excess with acetone. Try not to have much excess, you don't want to be rubbing the cut to much. Let it cure for 24 hours, and enjoy
story in pictures here: http://www.dollalbum.com/dollgallery/di ... 205&pos=41
I'm making this a sticky, because of the number of requests.
- Yoube Bosley
- Doll Mentor
- Posts: 1270
- Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 12:00 am
- Location: Michigan
- Contact:
--- Peter Griffin
Photos of Dana and Amyliu: http://www.dollalbum.com/dollgallery/in ... ?cat=10735
That hime joint idea is the whip! Both of my dolls have proven to be much more fun with a loose back joint. Posing is trickier for sure, but these dolls are about more than just photography!
Well done!
Mahtek & his Ladies
- Mechwizard
- Doll Elder
- Posts: 2015
- Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2008 12:00 am
- Location: Australia
- Contact:
One big plus with surgery on a RD is the ease that the silicone can be glued back up again with barely noticeable scarring. Your pics don't even show the cut after its finished. Awesome work.
-
- Ex-Member
- Posts: 2396
- Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2007 12:00 am
- Location: Bay State
I got the idea from my snowmobile. The steering suspension is loaded with them. This joint was a spare from an older sled that was never used. I heard them called lollypops too. But there more commonly called rod ends.Downunder we call those joints rose joints. they're popular with racecar builders because of the heavy loads they can handle.
Its there, but the trick is not to use a lot of adheasive. A thin coat on both sides of the cut is all you need. Especially near the surface. To much glue and the cut wants to seperate and leave a clear gap. After a few minutes I wiped the access adhesive off with acetone but gently. This eliminated most of the shine.Your pics don't even show the cut after its finished.
If you or anyone can help, I would appreciate it. I've ordered the repair kit from Abyss and expect it by the end of the week. Once I'm sure I've got enough glue I can make the cuts and try to take some pictures of the damage.
Also I've heard of someone who calls himself the "RealDoll Doctor," who reportedly specializes in fixing problems with RealDolls. Does anyone know where he's located or have any contact information on him?
Please respond at your convenience. I appreciate your help in this situation. A month and two weeks out of the factory and THIS happens...
I attempted to use "bearing blocks" for the hips but had to give up as I could not find them small enough.
These sort of joints are the answer, if it can stand the pummelling from a snowmobile I think it will take you a very long time to wear that one out!
Although I expect you will try ..........
-
- Ex-Member
- Posts: 2396
- Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2007 12:00 am
- Location: Bay State
Realdoll doctor is no longer in business.