I got an interesting email from David Ng <A HREF="mailto:ng97@hkstar.com">ng97@hkstar.com</A> today with multiple ideas that he wanted to share with the doll community.
I compressed the images from the huge paper scans that I got and posted them to the image section of the forum. David couldn't figure out how to use the URL button below and asked me to post this information for him.
1)Vagina Lubrication Idea
2)Heating and Knee Joint
3)Heater part 2
4)Functional Breasts
5)Functional Breast Part 2
6)Moving Eyes
7)Fingers
If you have any questions, write to David at the email address above.
Jerry
Ideas by David
Ideas by David
About the finger idea:
Sorry but this can't work for fingers. With this design the fingers/toes would always stay straight and if you try to bend them they will snap back immediately when released.
But for toes this design should work.
Thomas
Sorry but this can't work for fingers. With this design the fingers/toes would always stay straight and if you try to bend them they will snap back immediately when released.
But for toes this design should work.
Thomas
Ideas by David
... About the Feet/Toes:
Two Black-Rubber pieces molded and joined with a piece that is shaped like the "Angle Fillet Welding" piece,,, might be a lot easier then a MASSIVE connecting welding-job,,, per Foot. (Then you would be pouring cool black-rubber instead of HOT soldier. [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
Example, from front:
0---0
The joining section, "---", probably, should be arched for a natural flexing action.
Or simply do the ENTIRE foot skeleton in a flexable, white neoprene... Done...
( Old FLEXABLE Halloween, Neoprene Skeletons will give you some New Ideas about this. :-)
... And yes, DB_DB... There are 2 neoprene links in the "Hand Ideas: Neoprene and Others" topic, in the Inventors Corner...
Two Black-Rubber pieces molded and joined with a piece that is shaped like the "Angle Fillet Welding" piece,,, might be a lot easier then a MASSIVE connecting welding-job,,, per Foot. (Then you would be pouring cool black-rubber instead of HOT soldier. [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
Example, from front:
0---0
The joining section, "---", probably, should be arched for a natural flexing action.
Or simply do the ENTIRE foot skeleton in a flexable, white neoprene... Done...
( Old FLEXABLE Halloween, Neoprene Skeletons will give you some New Ideas about this. :-)
... And yes, DB_DB... There are 2 neoprene links in the "Hand Ideas: Neoprene and Others" topic, in the Inventors Corner...
Ideas by David
How about some links for the neoprene stuff Nada? Or are they posted in the had skeleton section- you know how bad my memory is:~)
db_db
db_db
Ideas by David
Hi everybody,
Actually, I did not post my finger design drawings yet. They were drawings of feet only. When my finger design drawings are finished, you will see they could crap someone's pennis really hard. Each finger will be pulled by 2 wires to perform crapping action. I have sent some more detail drawings to Jerry, hopefully, he will post the drawings for me later for public insterest.Jerry, thank you very much for your help, I really appreciated very much.
Actually, I did not post my finger design drawings yet. They were drawings of feet only. When my finger design drawings are finished, you will see they could crap someone's pennis really hard. Each finger will be pulled by 2 wires to perform crapping action. I have sent some more detail drawings to Jerry, hopefully, he will post the drawings for me later for public insterest.Jerry, thank you very much for your help, I really appreciated very much.
Ideas by David
Hi everybody,
Have ever think about how nice it is going to be when you get home, your love doll can laught, cry or smile to you. The best of all, she can have individual thinking.Especially, when you taking photos to her, you can ask her to perform different facial expression to present boring. This idea is not impossible, and I already have detailed drawings for that. Hopefully Jerry will post my drawings later.
Have ever think about how nice it is going to be when you get home, your love doll can laught, cry or smile to you. The best of all, she can have individual thinking.Especially, when you taking photos to her, you can ask her to perform different facial expression to present boring. This idea is not impossible, and I already have detailed drawings for that. Hopefully Jerry will post my drawings later.
Ideas by David
In my opinion ,(it may not be truth for someone else),love doll is much much better than human being. Since she will not get sick, will not go to see doctor, will not ask you for money when you make love to her, will not getting old, will not complain to you when you make love to her at 4 o'clock in the moring. 3 years ago, I have sent some of my doll ideas to Abyss Creation (creator of Realdoll) to propose some of my ideas to them. After a few days, there was a sales-girl to reply my e-mail. She sad (No body would be insterested in a doll which can smile, taking a leak, sweat, talking, containing milk in the breats.......)I think she actually would not go to buy a doll. I think she would never understand why people would spending a lot of money to buy a love doll. I really looking for some one who has a work-shop and all the right tool and right materials on hand. To perform some kinds of testing for me. To see if my ideas area workable or not workable. For example, you propose capilliar system for body temperature, and I propose electrical coil system for body temperature. Then we should build a very smaill part of the doll and performing a lot of testing on it. For example, built the coil first, then put a piece of silicone on it's surface. (let's try 1MM thick). then heating up the coil with 6v batteries. IF the temperature get too long to pass thought the silicone's other surface, then we might try 0.5MM silicone flesh skin, then we might find out it is too thin and too easy to get damage, Then we might use 3MM thick for another testing. Finaly, we increase the 6V batteries to 12V batteries to achieve the best result of 38 degrees.We need to do some calculation on the BTU system. (Birtish Thermal Unit).......This design has defect also. The user may get an electrical shock, so it is a dangerous idea also. If you propose Capillar system, it is a very good idea however it may has a big chance of leaking problem. And is very hard to carry out for construction too.Also we have less room or space for installing another componet also.
Ideas by David
... Hello David... You mean a "Capillary System", don't you???
http://www.saburchill.com/chapters/chap0083.html
"The capillary system consists of very tiny vessels whose walls are very thin, often just one cell layer. The capillary network is so immense that every living cells of the body is in contact with a capillary."
... Jerry has a nice "Heart Sound" idea, so let us place the two, together...
The metal structure of the doll will act as a main Artery/Vein or a massive Heat-Sink SYSTEM,,, to a central heat-source that we will call her "Heart". And her Heart Sound could be produced, almost naturally, by the pumping action of the fluid. Her "Cells" are, of course, soft silicone areas. (But here, we have a safe and very isolated Heat Source transferring an externally regulated, warm fluid.)
(The rest of this text is just MORE boring details that you know, already.) [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
Her "Heart" would be a very sturdy material with a rubber-lining, for just SOUND effects... It would receive warmth from an external heat-source via tubes that are filled with a non-rubber-corrosive, non-toxic fluid.
Her "capillary system" would be metal lines connected to the doll's metal structure. And these metal "capillaries" probably should be bundled at various points and at the end to store heat for adjacent, but un-touched or larger areas... (The Doll would WARM slowly and then KEEP it's heat at distant locations from the "Heart".)
... And if the "Heart" ruptures or blows-up, we use the same hatch-method, in her back for her inflatable Breasts, to access it. (Oh... Hi Mark!!!) [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
(Isn't Dreaming and Scheming,,, FUN Stuff!!! And, of course, a nice electric blanket would do this HEATing Job, just about as well.) [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
http://www.saburchill.com/chapters/chap0083.html
"The capillary system consists of very tiny vessels whose walls are very thin, often just one cell layer. The capillary network is so immense that every living cells of the body is in contact with a capillary."
... Jerry has a nice "Heart Sound" idea, so let us place the two, together...
The metal structure of the doll will act as a main Artery/Vein or a massive Heat-Sink SYSTEM,,, to a central heat-source that we will call her "Heart". And her Heart Sound could be produced, almost naturally, by the pumping action of the fluid. Her "Cells" are, of course, soft silicone areas. (But here, we have a safe and very isolated Heat Source transferring an externally regulated, warm fluid.)
(The rest of this text is just MORE boring details that you know, already.) [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
Her "Heart" would be a very sturdy material with a rubber-lining, for just SOUND effects... It would receive warmth from an external heat-source via tubes that are filled with a non-rubber-corrosive, non-toxic fluid.
Her "capillary system" would be metal lines connected to the doll's metal structure. And these metal "capillaries" probably should be bundled at various points and at the end to store heat for adjacent, but un-touched or larger areas... (The Doll would WARM slowly and then KEEP it's heat at distant locations from the "Heart".)
... And if the "Heart" ruptures or blows-up, we use the same hatch-method, in her back for her inflatable Breasts, to access it. (Oh... Hi Mark!!!) [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
(Isn't Dreaming and Scheming,,, FUN Stuff!!! And, of course, a nice electric blanket would do this HEATing Job, just about as well.) [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
Ideas by David
Dear Nada,
Thanks for your reply. Actually, The (Capillary ideas) is belong to Micheal(The inventor of Andy love doll).He is a very nice person. You can send him e-mail if you are insterested in this area of study. I think your ideas are very insteresting too. Can you post some kinds of pencil sketch drawings to explain your thought more details. I am sorry for my poor written English. (English is my second lauguage [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img] )
Thanks for your reply. Actually, The (Capillary ideas) is belong to Micheal(The inventor of Andy love doll).He is a very nice person. You can send him e-mail if you are insterested in this area of study. I think your ideas are very insteresting too. Can you post some kinds of pencil sketch drawings to explain your thought more details. I am sorry for my poor written English. (English is my second lauguage [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img] )
Ideas by David
David
Your ideas are well taken. The problem with having fluid such as milk in the breasts and a continuously moist vagina is that there is no immune system to keep bacterial and fungal growth under check.
The introduction of fluids will mean you also need a system for disinfection and cleaning.
MarkY
Your ideas are well taken. The problem with having fluid such as milk in the breasts and a continuously moist vagina is that there is no immune system to keep bacterial and fungal growth under check.
The introduction of fluids will mean you also need a system for disinfection and cleaning.
MarkY
Ideas by David
I think a capillary system is too complicated and too much prone to failure. An electrical system is much easier to handle.
You can go up to 42 V without the risk of a lethal electrical shock. But I would prefer 12 V or 24 V because you can buy silicone isolated heating cables for these voltages at many pet shops. They are used to heat the sand in terrariums. Industrial heating cables unfortunately work mainly with mains power at 120 V or 240 V or above.
I would suggest to place the wires in the middle between outer skin and bones since it will be best to bring the whole silicone at the desired temperature. Also this will minimize the risk of damages to the skin or the cables. I do not know the thermal capacity of silicone but it should hold the temperature for some time so the heating system can be powered from outside and for usage of the doll it can be unplugged. A battery will not work since you would need at least a car battery to bring the doll at the desired temperature
Thomas
You can go up to 42 V without the risk of a lethal electrical shock. But I would prefer 12 V or 24 V because you can buy silicone isolated heating cables for these voltages at many pet shops. They are used to heat the sand in terrariums. Industrial heating cables unfortunately work mainly with mains power at 120 V or 240 V or above.
I would suggest to place the wires in the middle between outer skin and bones since it will be best to bring the whole silicone at the desired temperature. Also this will minimize the risk of damages to the skin or the cables. I do not know the thermal capacity of silicone but it should hold the temperature for some time so the heating system can be powered from outside and for usage of the doll it can be unplugged. A battery will not work since you would need at least a car battery to bring the doll at the desired temperature
Thomas
Ideas by David
... Just some words to think about:
MOST electrical systems have fixed wires or solid circuit boards, etc... And they do not have Arms, Legs or very limber, moving parts,,, flexing their wires to extremes, perhaps several times a minute.
GOOD 18-guage, braided-wire will forgive this kind of treatment for quite some time. But, even it will start to kink and break.
PLUS, wires running through-out a Doll might be tighten, too much and be pulled-away during the rotation of a joint or multiple joints... So, plan for some "Give and Take" with the wire's lengths.
ROTARY Electrical-Contacts with internal transferal-brushes are used for pivot-points on some industrial machinery.
( And for SAFETY, remember that high current/amperage (I) can turn, even 12 Volts (E) into a Wattage/Power KILLER (W)...)
W = I * E can still equal OUCH!!! [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_frown.gif[/img]
... Enough of my Nada Noise, for now... PLAY CAREFULLY!!! [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
MOST electrical systems have fixed wires or solid circuit boards, etc... And they do not have Arms, Legs or very limber, moving parts,,, flexing their wires to extremes, perhaps several times a minute.
GOOD 18-guage, braided-wire will forgive this kind of treatment for quite some time. But, even it will start to kink and break.
PLUS, wires running through-out a Doll might be tighten, too much and be pulled-away during the rotation of a joint or multiple joints... So, plan for some "Give and Take" with the wire's lengths.
ROTARY Electrical-Contacts with internal transferal-brushes are used for pivot-points on some industrial machinery.
( And for SAFETY, remember that high current/amperage (I) can turn, even 12 Volts (E) into a Wattage/Power KILLER (W)...)
W = I * E can still equal OUCH!!! [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_frown.gif[/img]
... Enough of my Nada Noise, for now... PLAY CAREFULLY!!! [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
Ideas by David
MarkY,
Thank you for your advice, I am developing some kinds of ideas that may be she can be dis-assembled for cleaning purposes. Wait and see my new sketch of design drawings.I want to know your superbady ,does she have body temperature?Do you think my vagina lubrication idea will work or not?
Thomas,
I see your point, I think so.... The battery was used during testing purpose. When the idea is fully developed. I think I will use external power supply (such as connecting to a 1.5v to 24v transformer then connecting to our wall outlet.Thank you for your suggest that the wire placed on the middle of bone and outter skin. Actually the distance between the outter skin and wire, must be calculated precisely relating to BTU system. This involve a lot of complicate math calucation, which what they called THE CO-EFFICIENT OF HEAT TRANSFERING.....this should be done at the second or third stage of design development. What we doing here is only prelimary and concept design.According to what I understand, Silicone is a element of mixture of resins, oil and rubber.Silicone can withstand very high temperatures (some developer say 300 degree) without decomposing.They also remain satisfactorily viscous both at the extremely low temperatures at which ordinary hydrocarbon oils become stiff and at the high temperatures at which ordinary oils become too thin.Each molecule of a silicone is a chain composed of alternate silicon and oxygen atoms with an organic group, such as a methyl group, attached to the silicon atom.It also can stand of 400 percen of enlongration.
Nada
Thanks for your concern, this will really happen when a piece of sample built out during testing.Yeach, the wire may start to kink and break. I did not think about this.So I will refine my ideas and post some improved design drawings at the doll forum. Wait and see my new ideas....
.
Thank you for your advice, I am developing some kinds of ideas that may be she can be dis-assembled for cleaning purposes. Wait and see my new sketch of design drawings.I want to know your superbady ,does she have body temperature?Do you think my vagina lubrication idea will work or not?
Thomas,
I see your point, I think so.... The battery was used during testing purpose. When the idea is fully developed. I think I will use external power supply (such as connecting to a 1.5v to 24v transformer then connecting to our wall outlet.Thank you for your suggest that the wire placed on the middle of bone and outter skin. Actually the distance between the outter skin and wire, must be calculated precisely relating to BTU system. This involve a lot of complicate math calucation, which what they called THE CO-EFFICIENT OF HEAT TRANSFERING.....this should be done at the second or third stage of design development. What we doing here is only prelimary and concept design.According to what I understand, Silicone is a element of mixture of resins, oil and rubber.Silicone can withstand very high temperatures (some developer say 300 degree) without decomposing.They also remain satisfactorily viscous both at the extremely low temperatures at which ordinary hydrocarbon oils become stiff and at the high temperatures at which ordinary oils become too thin.Each molecule of a silicone is a chain composed of alternate silicon and oxygen atoms with an organic group, such as a methyl group, attached to the silicon atom.It also can stand of 400 percen of enlongration.
Nada
Thanks for your concern, this will really happen when a piece of sample built out during testing.Yeach, the wire may start to kink and break. I did not think about this.So I will refine my ideas and post some improved design drawings at the doll forum. Wait and see my new ideas....
.
