Handy tools for smoothing and shaping

bootylover24 · Post by **bootylover24** » Wed Apr 18, 2018 7:54 pm

This is impressive stuff. Thanks for posting.

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Wed Apr 18, 2018 8:23 pm

bootylover24 wrote:This is impressive stuff. Thanks for posting.

Takes a nanosecond to put a hole in the lady.

A hole that is not wanted.

I have always learned best by getting my hands dirty. Reading, watching videos surely helps, but until we get in there and try what is being taught/shown. we won't learn.
At this stage, I'm probably thinking now, should have just left it as it was... WHAT??? give up???? No way!!! LOL
Yep this thread is informative... these guys in the know are smart!!
I am learning it's all in the tools used. I like making my own stuff/tools, I may not get away with that this time

(I'm not gonna trust myself with any type of "gun") But looks like heat gun might be best option...
Poor baby doll

Fantastic Plastic · Post by **Fantastic Plastic** » Wed Apr 18, 2018 11:18 pm

I would like to help you with this RGC.

Anung Un Rama · Post by **Anung Un Rama** » Thu Apr 19, 2018 12:37 am

bootylover24 wrote:This is impressive stuff. Thanks for posting.

I appreciate the feedback as well.

This is a unique thread were the Jedi Master's of tpe doll repairs and all their faithful appostles and padawans are contributing valuable repair information, to TPE gals, that in the past has been always unclear and almost considered as untenable.

We do this for the betterment of the doll ownership experience, and a re more than happy to help maintain this, irrespective of where she was made.

keep up the accurate and good work team, and thankyou for the feedback.

Anung

RainKing · Post by **RainKing** » Thu Apr 19, 2018 1:03 am

Thanks for the great info. I will undertake a WM 157b finger wire job on Eva *(yes already dammit!) and I am studying up on every bit of info I can.
Do you think this will close a hand wound up better than TPE glue?
I have a weird thing going on here:

: Eva's E.T. finger; Evasfinger.png (329.09 KiB) Viewed 2237 times

I would rather not have to "amputate"

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Thu Apr 19, 2018 9:43 am

RainKing wrote:Thanks for the great info. I will undertake a WM 157b finger wire job on Eva *(yes already dammit!) and I am studying up on every bit of info I can.
Do you think this will close a hand wound up better than TPE glue?
I have a weird thing going on here:
Evasfinger.png

I would rather not have to "amputate"

Broken and/or twisted finger wire. Feel around her wrist/palm for a flat plate. Many make a 1" slice on palm to gain access to the wires. A small incision, you'll be surprised how well you can work with that. have a look at Crazycajun's videos of his finger replacement. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QHqftsp9k8k
That was a WM doll he repaired. R.I.P CC :(l
If it is not broken, take a bit of patience to get it straightened. But could break playing it with. They are VERY thin these wires.
In my very limited experience, I found a bit of heat from solder iron will work better than glue. I made a thin copper blade that attached to my iron (30 watt)
to wedge in between seams to close up the wound. As I am finding out, there are tools for each doll repair job

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Thu Apr 19, 2018 9:54 am

Fantastic Plastic wrote:I would like to help you with this RGC.

Appreciate any coaching

The little bit of damage I did looks worse in a close up than it does from a normal distance. It is amazing how one can gain a bit of confidence by practicing, getting the feel for it all, then it all changes LOL. I think when I first started I had her position correct. I had to move her into hiding LOL, then when I returned to it later, I did not have the same relaxed position.
I'll have to order a rework station, found one on ebay, that looks the same as what your PM had shown.
It's an obvious choice, since everyone with experience in this thread has stated.
Burn dolly burn?? LOL all will be ok. I know when to call it quits with my dumb ideas.

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Thu Apr 19, 2018 10:32 am

Not discouraged. Just thought a few simple tools would help clean up the area some.

I can admit wrong!! lol

OOPs.jpg

It looks to me like all is not lost by any means...
it's just OOOPS!!

RainKing · Post by **RainKing** » Thu Apr 19, 2018 2:47 pm

RGC_0767 wrote:
RainKing wrote:Thanks for the great info. I will undertake a WM 157b finger wire job on Eva *(yes already dammit!) and I am studying up on every bit of info I can.
Do you think this will close a hand wound up better than TPE glue?
I have a weird thing going on here:
Evasfinger.png

I would rather not have to "amputate"
Broken and/or twisted finger wire. Feel around her wrist/palm for a flat plate. Many make a 1" slice on palm to gain access to the wires. A small incision, you'll be surprised how well you can work with that. have a look at Crazycajun's videos of his finger replacement. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QHqftsp9k8k
That was a WM doll he repaired. R.I.P CC :(l
If it is not broken, take a bit of patience to get it straightened. But could break playing it with. They are VERY thin these wires.
In my very limited experience, I found a bit of heat from solder iron will work better than glue. I made a thin copper blade that attached to my iron (30 watt)
to wedge in between seams to close up the wound. As I am finding out, there are tools for each doll repair job

Thanks for the info RGC!
Yes it's broken. The wires in the fingers feel like they are at least 4 to 5 mm in diameter. I think it's just that they broke at the palm plate attachment.
I have a small soldering iron, approx 30 to 40 watts.
Could you please PM me at your leisure, a pic of this blade?
I'm pretty mechanical, that explains Eva's makeup messes lol

I'll review CC's videos. So glad he left a legacy. R.I.P. CC
Shakka, when the walls fell.o7

Rk

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Sat Apr 21, 2018 10:03 pm

Anung Un Rama wrote:
RGC_0767 wrote:
Anung Un Rama wrote:I am with Indigo here, this is what I do, and I use the tools to sculpt the semi molten tpe accordingly, but you need a very light touch and the oil is important less the tool bites and grabs the tpe causing more work to repair. (so again practice on test pieces to master the touch and oil application technique).

The other trick is feathering the heat form the gun to ensure even heat transfer as well, and as shot does suggests, a digital laser thermometer is great if you got an extra set of hands.

I discuss the heat repair technique here https://www.dollforum.com/forum/viewtop ... 9#p1279899 and elaborate further in a few posts after that one.

Anung
Yes, it was a post you did a while back, I copied and pasted that to a text file. It's easy to get info mixed up on forums this size That is sort of what goes with this doll. It grabs the TPE in tiny little blots. That temp is the key there. I'd rather be cautious than jump in like a fool
That's the difference between my test TPE and this doll. The test TPE is so easy to work with, this doll is more stubborn. WoW the doll and I have something in common. Stubbornness
That's is due to the fact that the dolly is far larger and has far more material for thermal conduction than a tpe test piece, thus her body mass forms a heat sink, hence we hot gun feather back and forth to normalise the higher temp over a greater area and mass.

So why use a test piece at all then?

Sure, it is about the repairer getting to know how the tpe reacts, and gaining experience of what the matrial does in it solid, semi molten and molten forms, as well as training the repairer to master the amount and type of required touch and pressure required, without catastrophic blunders on their valuable dolly.

the proceedure is the same for both, just slower and more hands on with heat regulation with the heat gun for dolly.

Anung

Have one of these on the way... pic is actual model. with 3 attachments 700 watt

hotgun.jpg

Of course, this thing makes me more nervous than a solder iron. Especially in the area I am trying to work with. I have steel brake line I can mod a longer tip from that I think.
A hot doll is about to get hotter!!! LOL
Should see this station sometime late next week...

RainKing · Post by **RainKing** » Sat Apr 21, 2018 10:25 pm

RGC,
That's what I was talking about sorta in our PMs.

Here is a small demo of how it can work, but it's on a circuit board.

I'll start it at a point needed.
450 deg C of hot air on your dick he says LOL

https://youtu.be/a67p6pziKz8?t=12m33s

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Sat Apr 21, 2018 11:20 pm

RainKing wrote:RGC,
That's what I was talking about sorta in our PMs.

Here is a small demo of how it can work, but it's on a circuit board.

I'll start it at a point needed.
450 deg C of hot air on your dick he says LOL

https://youtu.be/a67p6pziKz8?t=12m33s

I mostly read comments on YouTube videos. They seem more informative

I recommend this tool for helping with frostbite

I think TPE is around 300 deg to get a flow. I'll be reading more before any attempt at using it on the skin. (not foreskin either)

Anung Un Rama · Post by **Anung Un Rama** » Mon Apr 23, 2018 4:22 am

165 degrees celcius (329 deg F) will go semi molten, so do not get celsius to fahrenheit confused, as some live in a metric world, others an imperial one.

Handy converter below.

https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/tem ... nheit.html

Anung

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Mon Apr 23, 2018 8:34 am

Anung Un Rama wrote:165 degrees celcius (329 deg F) will go semi molten, so do not get celsius to fahrenheit confused, as some live in a metric world, others an imperial one.

Handy converter below.

https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/tem ... nheit.html

Anung

I prefer to use imperial, but we have metric in Canada. We used to be imperial then they switched over to metric in the mid 70's. Sort of dumb since America is our largest trading partner. So unfortunately I have to live in both worlds.