My second and third 1/6 head sculpts.
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My second and third 1/6 head sculpts.
DD.
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Re: My second and third 1/6 head sculpts.
Review of my SUKI doll from Sili Doll viewtopic.php?f=253&t=73439
Re: My second and third 1/6 head sculpts.
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My dolls
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First photo shoot of Sandra, a Sanhui 145 cm lady doll.
[thumb]http://dollforum.com/forum/download/file.php?id=196256&t=1[/thumb]
Fun photos of my JM 110cm, Angie.
http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=196&t=74121
Re: My second and third 1/6 head sculpts.
DD.
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Re: My second and third 1/6 head sculpts.
Re: My second and third 1/6 head sculpts.
Thanks!!Pale Skater wrote:Looks great!
DD.
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Re: My second and third 1/6 head sculpts.
It is a really nice head sculpt. Kudos!! But when watching the neck it seems to me that you did not design it for the Phicen body. Are you working on making the body as well?
Koen
Creator of ScoonimDolls
Re: My second and third 1/6 head sculpts.
Currently the neck is limited by material making the "snap" mechanism to snap on the Phicen connector. I might be able to refine it a little bit but not much. Making the body is a whole different story. I very much like to do it but don't have the skill nor resource to do it.Koen wrote:Hi DDdioxine,
It is a really nice head sculpt. Kudos!! But when watching the neck it seems to me that you did not design it for the Phicen body. Are you working on making the body as well?
Koen
Creator of ScoonimDolls
Incidentally, I made two more heads:
DD.
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Re: My second and third 1/6 head sculpts.
Koen
Creator of ScoonimDolls
Re: My second and third 1/6 head sculpts.
Thanks for the compliment. The heads are similar because the have the same base "structure". I use them to test out the eye mechanism and to practice on my makeup skill. I initially made one with a hole at the back of the head to move the eyes but that was very limiting. Now the back of the head is removed for posing the eyes.Koen wrote:The faces you have made are very likable . But they are also look very much similar. it may be the photos but I really have a hard time figuring out the differences. nonetheless, and as said they are really lovely . I also like the fact that you have managed to make the eyes poseable. It adds so much more to the face. Can you pose them from the outside, or do you need to remove a part of the head to acces them?
Koen
Creator of ScoonimDolls
When I have time, I'll be reworking the structure so that I can actually sculpt with Fimo or similar on top of the eye mechanism.
DD.
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Re: My second and third 1/6 head sculpts.
The trick is to refrase your design question into:
What is needed to make the neck of the head fit more natural to the body? And then work your way back to the construction design of the socket for the balljoint.
I cannot tell from the photos what type of materials you can process with this 3D printer, but as a rule strength and flexibility will likely become a problem when considering the premanent pressure you need on the ball joint to get the proper posing stiffness. Therefore you may need to go around that and assure the tension of the socket to the ball by adding a prefab part to your design. This can be a small piece of a pipe made of metal or plastic, preferably PA (nylon).
Koen
Creator of ScoonimDolls
P.S.
As it so happens I am currently also working on making a fully poseable ScoonimDoll head for a Phicen body. Though my goals and methods to achieve them are very different from yours. For example I do not work with 3D-software, nor do I use a 3D-printer, But I have my knowledge about construction, modelling, resins, silicon etc.
Re: My second and third 1/6 head sculpts.
I started off from the neck bolt of the Phicen body and worked outwards, adding my best guess of tolerances, elasticity of the spring mechanism, how far they move back, and the necessary wall thickness of the neck. Of course now I can rework and cutting back a bit form each area and see how far can I go. But this kind of mechanical things always has a limit.Koen wrote:If I am correct then you seem to have quite some skills with 3D CAD-CAM software and access to a 3D-printer. Well , that opens a whole range of possibilities for improving the neck size .
The trick is to refrase your design question into:
What is needed to make the neck of the head fit more natural to the body? And then work your way back to the construction design of the socket for the balljoint.
I cannot tell from the photos what type of materials you can process with this 3D printer, but as a rule strength and flexibility will likely become a problem when considering the premanent pressure you need on the ball joint to get the proper posing stiffness. Therefore you may need to go around that and assure the tension of the socket to the ball by adding a prefab part to your design. This can be a small piece of a pipe made of metal or plastic, preferably PA (nylon).
Koen
Creator of ScoonimDolls
P.S.
As it so happens I am currently also working on making a fully poseable ScoonimDoll head for a Phicen body. Though my goals and methods to achieve them are very different from yours. For example I do not work with 3D-software, nor do I use a 3D-printer, But I have my knowledge about construction, modelling, resins, silicon etc.
Love to see how you go with your version.
DD.