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[IDEA] Improving the Moaning and internal Heating systems.

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donoghu
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[IDEA] Improving the Moaning and internal Heating systems.

Post by donoghu »

For the sake of avoiding anyone to fall into sci-fi/impossible stuff, I suggest people to only reply suggestions if it's based on something they know about. Adding onto the following idea/concept based on stuff you're uncertain of because "you think it exist" might not be helping and might just push the discussion on the wrong track. Otherwise, feel free to comment, add or find any faults in this idea.

As I'm passively looking up for maybe a new LD, I found myself quite a bit surprised by how the market has evolved in not even 1 year since I last shop for one. One of the main thing that caught my attention is that some Doll now has the option of internal heating and touch-sensitive moaning. The issues and risks, though, are well present too.

For those who haven't seen it, here's an example of the moaning system :

(Thanks to MySiliconeLoveDoll for sharing that video.)

As a techno-geek that LOVES to thinker with electronic stuff (such as micro PCs like the Raspberry Pie and all the cool stuff you can make out of it), I can tell that the main issue that comes with heating technologies is... the lack of technologies or at least the lack of technologies at a reasonable price.

That's especially true with a temperature sensible material like the TPE. Unless the TPE is super heat resistant such as the RTP 2900 Series (PEBA) from RTP Companie which is can work up to 170C/340F (or maybe the Permaprene™ 2800 Series (TPV) which is at 135C/275F), most TPE would have its molecular structure modified as soon as the first heating is applied because the technology used for heating is basically done in a linear pattern and controlled by analogue. (Those 2 series are just examples of TPE that has heat resistance. I haven't looked up if they are proper TPE for dolls at all so take it with a grain of salt. I was just browsing for TPE with heat resistance of over 100C)

For the sake of those who don't understand what I meant by linear pattern and something controlled by analogue :
(Those are NOT official terms used by specialists. It's how I call them.)

Linear pattern means that the heating "devices" inserted into the doll are not returning to the control board. This means that the energy used to heat the small "heating soft sheets" in each heating nodes can't go anywhere else than the said sheets. That is why the feet (the end of the system) can get quite hot if the control panel send even just a bit too much power in the wires' circuit.

A system that would work best, in this situation, would be one that has the exceeding energy returning to the control board and, on said control board, has a regulator for the power input. Initially, the control board take all the energy it can than, once everything is heated up and there's an exceeding amount of power in the circuit, it drop the amount of energy it takes from the power input while reusing the exceeding power from the last "run through". To give an idea, today's TV does that as the amount of power used by the TV varies by up to 25% based on what is displayed on screen.

It's not easy to implement especially in something that is so "closed" as a Love Doll. It's 2 additional manufacturing steps and risks of scrapping a doll and the control board gets slightly more complicated (so also expensive).

As for the control by analogue, this means that the heating system has its limit calculated by analogue or, if you prefer, by physical limitations of the materials used. While the heating might be partially controlled by the control board (like limiting the power distributed), the heating device is basically a black sheet of a certain material that radiate heat when powered up. If you got an USB heating rod for your Love Doll (the thing you insert in her to heat her up), that device is most likely a piece of plastique with a black sheet inside that is hooked to the USB plug by the wire which is power between 0.5A (USB 1.0 and 2.0) and 0.9A (USB 3.0). The same kind of technology is use for heating up the inside of the doll.

The risk of heating up with that technology is that the control board has NO monitor capacity of the heating of each individual nodes. It's not like a motherboard which has 2 to 8 heat sensor that allows the PC to regulate the heat with the use of a cooling system. The regulation of the heating is done through simple limitation of the power input toward the heating nodes. But as for the linear pattern explained above, it's not efficient at managing the per-node heating capacity of the doll. Basically, each nodes is like "I got X Amp coming in then I produce Y in heat."

Usually, they test each node prior to the assembly and verify that the node temperature doesn't exceed a certain point then they assembly the heating system in the doll during the assembly (as well as the moaning detectors) and test the doll to see if it's within the margin of errors. That's the way the heating system is being done for now (which is also the cheapest way).

Now, the idea of it being limited due to the available technology being limited is not true or, at least, not true for anyone who's truly willing to take it seriously. The fact that they insert the microphone in such a way in the back shows that the concept is still in beta testing with clearly cheap components. (I'm writing "cheap" as in not costing a lot to manufacture and not necessary as a bad product. It can be super solid and durable, but still cheap.)

In today's world, it relatively cheap and easy to build up a wireless system that can be powered up in a way that isn't inconvenient, but even as a wired system, it could be made a lot better.

Obviously, you want to avoid having any kind of batteries in the doll or, at least, no batteries that have any risks of explosion or of damaging the doll from within.
If any companies are interested in such batteries, they should contact the ionic Materials company in Massachusetts which, in my opinion, are really at the top of the position when it come to safe batteries. Their polymer-based batteries which can be pierces, cut and scrapped and still work and has no heating residual issues is already in a working state and can be made in many kind of forms and patterns. The main issue seems to be that many businesses tries to slow down their progress a bit like how electric cars have been in development since as far as the 70's, but was never commercially released until the 00's. They are always interested in serious investors that could apply their technology in areas that can't use regular batteries that can explode or salt-water based batteries.

The way the heating and moaning systems were implemented is easy to understand. They use the "same" molds and simply cut out whatever they need to remove to put in whatever device is required. Efficient and cheap, but... also quite cheap to both the look and authenticity.

In my opinion, that way missed one big thing that, ironically, requires people to use their own : the head.

The doll's head is the perfect place for many things. It has a "skull" (the hard part beneath the TPE) which can protect the electronics. It has the ability to hide things in many places. It's already heavy enough that it wouldn't be strange to make it either slightly heavier or to alter its inside to allow the installation of a device to controls whatever needs to be controlled as well as a safe battery, if applicable.
Not only that, but it's also replaceable! You really like the body, but want to use another head? Replace the head and it will just not have the moaning (but you can still heat the body a bit prior to switching the head). Accessing the inner part could be easily done from behind of the head and the "scar" of the operation can be hidden by a wig.

The speaker in the back is, in my opinion, of bad taste. if the device was in the head, the speaker could be behind the eyes or in the ears or, though I suggest against it, in the nose. (I'm not suggesting the nose as much because it's close to the mouth which might have liquid dripping out of it during its uses. You don't want said liquid to end up in the speakers. I'll admit, though, that it's the best place for life-like real sound source.)

If I had to point the best way of handling the plugs and speaker and stuff, I would put the speakers behind the eyes and an USB B Female (to adjust settings via a PC and powering/recharging) in an ear. Even if there are no batteries in the head, having the power source in the ear is a lot more efficient than in the back. Even better if you got a USB B Female plug in both ears so that the user can choose which "side" to power it up. If done right, the ears could even be used as air-flows holes if the control system generate a tiny bit of heat.

As for the heating and sensors for moaning, it would requires 2 major modifications to the screwing system of the heads and body that is currently being used, but this modification wouldn't make the "new" heads and bodies incompatible with the old ones. So, a new system that would be backward compatible with old version, but also allow the moaning and heating system to be powered by the head.

The first modification would be the bolt insertion in the head. Sorry, but the current system are, for most, using the screw and bolt system for the head's rotation even when used. That's wrong and, as many have already stated all around, is prone to issues which requires the user to add some kind of washer to remove the wobble of the head on its jack because, otherwise, the head is facing side-way.
The solution is to add a rotating arm root system at the base of the screw part of the neck on the body with a lock-up system. The lock-up system is a small screw-like thing that lock the rotation of the arm root system making it possible to screw the head firmly in place. Once in place, you turn the lock-up system and which allows the head to turn without using the screw part of the head. (If needed, it would be possible to use some string-based washer like what you use to seal the bolt of the faucets in the kitchen and washroom to secure the head's bolt even more firmly on the body's screw part..)

The 2nd system is more complex, but can still be made in bulk (so cheap to produce). The screw system of the head and body would have to be power-conductible IN and OUT. What this means is that the screw system would have to make it so that the power source, in the head, can power the heating part in the body, but also so that it can read the pressure pads' inputs in the sensitive parts of the doll's body.

So, the power goes out of the head, through the screw/bolt contact in the neck, move through the circuits of both heating and moaning systems and return through the screw/bolt contact in the neck and can be read by the control board as well as having the exceeding power reused if applicable. If the 1st system with the rotating arm root system is done well, the powering and reading bit wouldn't be hard to implement since the contact of the screw and bolt parts of the head and body would be "fixed". It could be a Per-Pin system. If the contact have risks of displacement, then it would requires to use, instead of pins contact, a chip that could translate a certain amount of power in actual data.

There are 2 ways of handing both the 1st and 2nd systems above together.
A) Having wires going through the center of the arm root system in the neck and, ideally, limiting the possible rotation of it to be like 180 degrees.
This way, the user can't just break the wire by over-rotating the head around. This is usually the kind of system you find in microphones of headsets that can rotate around.

B) Having a contact-powering system in the arm root system.
This is something you see, for example, on Notebooks with rotating screens. It's more expensive and might break more easily depending on the size of the system.

Each pressure chips act as resistors which makes the returning power lower than the initial amount. Whenever the amount drop (as the pressure pad, when pressed, drop the power) by a certain amount, the control module add some value to the moaning rate. As more value is added to the moaning rate raise, the voice sound is adjusted such as the volume and the type of sound used changes (initially, it's slight moaning, but as the moaning rate value raise, sounds that sound closer to climax are used instead). If nothing is done to the doll, the moaning rate value slowly drop over time. That system might sound complicated, but the reality is that it's a system that, in hardware, cost not even $100 to build, if we're not counting the cost of recording the sounds, the software development and the manufacturing involved with the dolls. (And that $100 is not including what you might be able to save if you buy in bulk. It's the price of the whole setup if you buy the stuff off Amazon. The highest costing part is the control board which has to be custom-made and cost at least $25 and can only be made in pack of 6 minimum.)

My one and only (and first) LD is still too new for me to even think of risking her with this kind of stuff, but I know that, in the back of my head, I'm waiting impatiently for the time when she'll be a bit too "used" and I'll feel less sad to open her up and try to make things like this. (Ha... if only money wasn't such an issue in my life.)
In a year or two, who knows? She might be ready to give her body to SCIENCE! :mrgreen: But since some of you might have the skills and, maybe, knowledge and just never though of it as I did, I though I should share it with you all. :wink:

P.S. If I ever get a lot of money (which might not be as much of a dream considering what I'm working on), making a love doll model of my own with my own ideas is one of the project I have in mind. Basically, I have made a whole "redo-from-scratch" of the whole doll's body from the skeleton to the way of applying the TPE as well as how to get a lot closer to real-life results. Not that I'm thinking that the ones currently available are "bad", but more that I think I have though of a different approach.

That project is one of mine... as well as making an Ironman-like suit that enhance many things such as strength, speed and endurance. (Not the weapons/flying stuff. Just the exoskeleton with a bit of plating protection is enough. Even better if it could be isolated and allow myself to go underwater. Ok, I'm side-tracking myself now.)
Last edited by Maviarab on Wed Apr 24, 2019 12:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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prometheusrising
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Re: [IDEA] Improving the Moaning and internal Heating system

Post by prometheusrising »

Im working with a fluid based system.

For this you need a lot of "channels" to pump the fluid... I am experimenting with burning these channels through her flesh.I am trying with lichtenberg figures, and non-newtonian fluids, but its very hard to do so.

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SN162A085T
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Re: [IDEA] Improving the Moaning and internal Heating system

Post by SN162A085T »

Fluid is good. The heat needs to be implied in small increments warming up slowly. Tpe is very sensitive to heat oh, it causes the elastomers to separate. Ideally the heating apparatus which warms the skin should not ever be hotter than 5 degrees above ambient.

Here in Texas I actually love the fact that she helps me keep from getting too hot during sex. The 90 degree weather the last thing I need is a hot sex partner, LOL. However I can't say the same in the winter. I just use a heat blanket around her body for about 15 minutes.

But planning ahead for sexual events is never convenient... so what I do nowadays is keep her in a full bodysuit. It's a very thin soft fabric that is tight like a leotard and covers the body neck to toe. Never cold to touch, and always comfortable for spooning. And of course a little cut out for bumping Uglies.
Doll Enthusiast, Creator, Distrupter Since 2013. - Meet Eve:
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prometheusrising
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Re: [IDEA] Improving the Moaning and internal Heating system

Post by prometheusrising »

Agreed, TPE is a bad material when it comes to heat resistance

But eventually, I want my doll to be made of lab grown meat or some collagen variant.

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