How to Make any size doll from 3d model without 3d printer.
Re: How to Make any size doll from 3d model without 3d print
Speaking about materials. Ive used foam with density = 40. This density tends to tear after 30% of stretching or so, so i dont think this is a good material for parts of the body that will stretch. however this density is a perfect in terms of feeling, it's quite close to a human body, especially with tube (skeleton) inside. Recently i bought 30D foam and it was way too soft for legs etc. but i found out that in can stretch much futher than 40D foam so considering the fact that doll has layered structure, you can use 30D foam for parts like crotch and boobs(want to make one to test). Covering it with silicone may not help because strech forces are spreading to the whole area of the layer and it may begin to tear in the inside.
One thing to mention, is that silicone dolls are made allready in spread legs pose so it reduces the tention on the crotch, so maybe it is a way too but it makes all legs layers at an angle witch is not so easy too keep alinged, so im still trying to find a solution for this.
For breast that you see on the picture above, i used a cutout inside and i filled it with balloon filled with orbeez. It was made with 40D foam so i must say it was not even close to real)) i mean the shape was perfect but the softness was on a low point. I think if i make same thing with 30D foam and use less dense balloon(maybe condom) it will make huge difference. Also i think breast model shoud be made with shape like if woman would bend making her chest parallel to the ground. This trick will make your foam breast "stand" untill you fill it with (gel/obreez/etc) and this filling will simulate gravity and make nice overlap at he bottom of the breast.
For the software you can use whatever you want)) I looked at Virt and it seems ok for it.
Recently i've made a new leg (well, just a part of it and i went out of material) but i made it with 20mm PP pipe skeleton inside and anckle joint. Now i can control it and it has limits but it does't stay in position because of the construction of the joint. Right now i cant find a decent joint for knee and futher, so i ordered a 3D printer and soon i will make my own joints.
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Re: How to Make any size doll from 3d model without 3d print
Actually, this is REALLY interesting. If you build a structure to either move the projector or the sheets vertically, you'd be able to project directly into the foam sheet, cut and glue at the same time. Move the processed sheets down or move the projector up, add another layer, do the same thing. Could be much faster, and you could even do 1cm or thinner sheets for more detail. Damn, I might try this at home. Would be much faster than sculpting by hand, maybe even faster than actually printing in 3D.
As for the skin, if you're using regular silicone (type-1) you might want to try mixing it with silicone oil. You don't want to use it for the inserts, but it does work well for parts you won't be interacting much with. I'd also recommend using pigments instead of acrylic paint to dye your silicone.
Re: How to Make any size doll from 3d model without 3d print
Honestly saying, there is a way to make it super fast and precise. It's a CNC router with laser head on a 2axis gimbal so it can connect outlines of the layers. I tried to search for this type of machinery but ended up with nothing. Only routers. But since 2cm foam easily cuts with diode laser, I'll try to make one)) when 3d printer arrive.
Re: How to Make any size doll from 3d model without 3d print
Re: How to Make any size doll from 3d model without 3d print
Re: How to Make any size doll from 3d model without 3d print
I understand you want to keep the doll as it is (only by painting skin)? Not molding it.
And I suppose you get your 3d printer over the time.
Your mention on 20mm foam keeps going in my head, so I decide to try myself later, for limbs only.
Originally, I though (for limbs) a vertical cut should give better results, now I don't know.
Just to contribute to your thread, here's what I was training on lately.
I'm new to this stuff and I learn when/as I can.
This is a butt, 6.5mm foam.
[img600]https://i.ibb.co/nQwqgGY/DSC-0228.jpg[/img600]
It looks small (28cm large, outer cheeks), because:
The process is reversed to yours: i want to coat the model into shape, not to cut its shape out.
So I'm adding this to your thread, if anyone is interested in weighting ideas.
I guess I'll use three silicon1 layers (1:hard, 2:oiled, 3:soften) to get a 20mm of skin thickness.
Then the real size of my 3d model, which is 34cm large from flank to flank.
Maybe, also, I'll try to mix third layer with baking soda to harden surface on less than 1mm.
Anyway, I want the positive to mold able to be plugged out, so I chose base silicon.
The concept, as viewed in basic win10 3d builder:
[img600]https://i.ibb.co/Kq1Rtg0/stage0-11.jpg[/img600]
The original file, as viewed/worked in Blender:
[img600]https://i.ibb.co/kQ37PWx/stage0-02.jpg[/img600]
I returned to Blender lately, because I want the female legs with hooves. There's a bit of work.
I do not use a video projector, but Autodesk Fusion360 slicer (free to download and use).
There are alternatives if you get a grip on 3d software and don't have a 3d printer. It must be said.
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