ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?
- solitaryman1424
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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?
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What else can I use? Can I cover an existing mold (metal or plastic one) with something, in order to make suitable surface?
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Speaking about simple solutions, wood seems to be the best.
I've tried to apply latex with a brush: It have varying thickness, it's relatively thin, it have visible seams between strokes and relatively easily ripped by one of them. But it's certainly possible to apply latex with a brush! Maybe in 3..5 layers it'll become tolerably strong.
Dipped wood mold was perfect. I've used a chopstick. I've removed sharp edges and dipped it in CaCl2 solution for few minutes.
Dried for a day and slowly dipped in latex for few minutes more (fast dipping causes air bubbles on surface). Dried for 1/2 hour and made "lips".
After drying for two days more: Dipped in hot water, removed from the mold, boiled in 70 Celsius water for 10 min: And the inflation test: It's flawless. No bubble holes, thickness is constant, it's thick and almost returns it's shape after deflation. Wall thickness is perfect for a doll: it'll not bloat on any reasonable pressure (A. K. A. max. possible blood pressure in a human penis: you'll barely need a doll inflated too tightly to have a sex).
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A brilliant idea. You don't even need to rotate it: you can buy enough latex to fill any doll unless you try to copy Carol Yager. It'll cost $10000 to fill a tank big enough to dip a doll, but it'll cost $1000 to fill a doll itself. You don't even need a single-piece mould! Latex coagulates quickly, so mould can be disassembled without noticeable leaks. You can decrease the inner volume by some tricks such as turning her tits inside out. They'll pop out as you inflate her Legs, arms and waist can be flat tubes. They'll also get proper shape.Aerial wrote:You will need a slush mould (a common method for making full head latex masks), which is a hollow single-piece mould filled with only a small amount of liquid latex and then rotated by 2 axes to form a latex layer inside.
Air bubbles sticking to walls will however be the most annoying problem.
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I'll think about making it's edge not as sharp as it's drawn here.
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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?
- DoctorDuke
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viewtopic.php?f=128&t=114884
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- solitaryman1424
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Can you please tell me where you found the info on the 'Prezes' person in Spain? I'm keen to try and make contact - there are a lot of people lurking on this forum who'd buy a Domax type doll if they could find a way too.
Thanks for your help with this
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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?
I've been toying with trying some dip mould tests with liquid latex.
Can you tell me please what the CaCl2 solution is, and why you used it?
When you boiled the end result at 70 degrees C for 10 minutes - was that to vulcanise the rubber? Would 100 degrees / longer boil times work better to make it stronger?
Thanks again, best wishes...
Void Pointer wrote:React a bad way or a good way (as active coagulant)?
Speaking about simple solutions, wood seems to be the best.
I've tried to apply latex with a brush: It have varying thickness, it's relatively thin, it have visible seams between strokes and relatively easily ripped by one of them. But it's certainly possible to apply latex with a brush! Maybe in 3..5 layers it'll become tolerably strong.
Dipped wood mold was perfect. I've used a chopstick. I've removed sharp edges and dipped it in CaCl2 solution for few minutes.
Dried for a day and slowly dipped in latex for few minutes more (fast dipping causes air bubbles on surface). Dried for 1/2 hour and made "lips".
After drying for two days more: Dipped in hot water, removed from the mold, boiled in 70 Celsius water for 10 min: And the inflation test: It's flawless. No bubble holes, thickness is constant, it's thick and almost returns it's shape after deflation. Wall thickness is perfect for a doll: it'll not bloat on any reasonable pressure (A. K. A. max. possible blood pressure in a human penis: you'll barely need a doll inflated too tightly to have a sex).
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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?
CaCl2 is a popular coagulant. Porous surface such as wood can hold it and slowly release, until coagulated latex reach the needed thickness. Without it, you can't make a thick envelope. It's also used for milk coagulation (cheese making) etc. You can easily buy it.JayJayHache wrote: I've been toying with trying some dip mould tests with liquid latex.
Can you tell me please what the CaCl2 solution is, and why you used it?
When you boiled the end result at 70 degrees C for 10 minutes - was that to vulcanise the rubber? Would 100 degrees / longer boil times work better to make it stronger?
70 deg. value has been copied from well-known balloon production technology, but I'm currently thinking it's better to vulcanise it in hotter water (80..90) for few minutes, and boil in 70 deg. water for longer time afterwards.
Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?
Hot air (hairdryer, tumble dryer) is traditionally used. Also hot steam (which is water) may be used - but likely only because it dries quickly when the product is removed, and then a tumble dryer does the rest.
https://www.deviantart.com/aerialtheshamen (latex trance art)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7pYoA9gEqcAerial wrote:
Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2019 11:37 pm
I never heard that anybody successfully vulcanized by boiling in hot water. AFAIK successful vulcanizing depends on removing all water from the solution, else the molecules can not crosslink. Boiling in water likely will quickly make latex rot, that's why nobody uses this.
But I agree balloons rot relatively quickly. They never stay for more than two years.