Ask the docs.

[dollguy22]

Looks like the doctor is in the house... Good thing since my poor Chloe is having some leg and joint trouble. Can I fix her or should I send her back to the manufacturer? (From her perspective) her left leg joint is loose and won't return to the normal leg position.

[Stepford_CT]

Looks like the doctor is in the house... Good thing since my poor Chloe is having some leg and joint trouble. Can I fix her or should I send her back to the manufacturer? (From her perspective) her left leg joint is loose and won't return to the normal leg position.

You may have the same problem I had.

My doll's right thigh broke; specifically, the bolt holding the leg to the pelvic rod broke. Jeff got me a replacement U-joint assembly from OR. I repaired her; however, the nut holding the leg to the pelvic rod will not stay tightened. When the leg is moved, the motion loosens the nut. I have tried Loctite and JB Weld; neither one worked because the TPE is so moist inside the doll that neither one would dry. The JB Weld didn't harden normally; it crumbled like sand. I then used a spring washer hoping the pushback would hold the nut in place; it didn't. I have to keep using a ratchet w/13mm socket to tighten the nut. And you won't believe how that's done, but it's the only way. I have researched some self-locking nuts on YouTube in hopes of finding a permanent solution.

The bolt is welded to the U-joint and when the skeleton is assembled, the nut is welded to the bolt shaft. There's no way to do that without destroying the doll. A self-locking nut is the only solution.

[RGC_0767]

Looks like the doctor is in the house... Good thing since my poor Chloe is having some leg and joint trouble. Can I fix her or should I send her back to the manufacturer? (From her perspective) her left leg joint is loose and won't return to the normal leg position.

You may have the same problem I had.

My doll's right thigh broke; specifically, the bolt holding the leg to the pelvic rod broke. Jeff got me a replacement U-joint assembly from OR. I repaired her; however, the nut holding the leg to the pelvic rod will not stay tightened. When the leg is moved, the motion loosens the nut. I have tried Loctite and JB Weld; neither one worked because the TPE is so moist inside the doll that neither one would dry. The JB Weld didn't harden normally; it crumbled like sand. I then used a spring washer hoping the pushback would hold the nut in place; it didn't. I have to keep using a ratchet w/13mm socket to tighten the nut. And you won't believe how that's done, but it's the only way. I have researched some self-locking nuts on YouTube in hopes of finding a permanent solution.

The bolt is welded to the U-joint and when the skeleton is assembled, the nut is welded to the bolt shaft. There's no way to do that without destroying the doll. A self-locking nut is the only solution.

Drill and cotter pin? or is it too much of a hassle to get in there to do that?. It'd keep the nut in place. I gotta tighten hips, no hurry for that. she's not going to be needing running off anywhere.

[Stepford_CT]

Drill and cotter pin? or is it too much of a hassle to get in there to do that?. It'd keep the nut in place. I gotta tighten hips, no hurry for that. she's not going to be needing running off anywhere.

First off, it's hardened steel and you can't drill through the bolt. Second, even if you could, there's no way to get a drill inside the doll. Third, even if you could do the first two, there's not enough bolt after the nut to put a drill hole into to insert a cotter pin and even if all three were possible, you would have to know exactly where to drill the hole so that the nut wouldn't loosen once the cotter pin is in place and that would require cutting the doll open and removing the U-joint assembly and then reinstalling and repairing the TPE a second time. No thanks.

If the nut isn't kept tightened, it will work itself off the bolt and then the leg is totally disconnected from the skeleton. The first indication the bolt is unscrewing itself (no pun intended) is alot of play in the thigh at the joint.

[RGC_0767]

Drill and cotter pin? or is it too much of a hassle to get in there to do that?. It'd keep the nut in place. I gotta tighten hips, no hurry for that. she's not going to be needing running off anywhere.

First off, it's hardened steel and you can't drill through the bolt. Second, even if you could, there's no way to get a drill inside the doll. Third, even if you could do the first two, there's not enough bolt after the nut to put a drill hole into to insert a cotter pin and even if all three were possible, you would have to know exactly where to drill the hole so that the nut wouldn't loosen once the cotter pin is in place and that would require cutting the doll open and removing the U-joint assembly and then reinstalling and repairing the TPE a second time. No thanks.

If the nut isn't kept tightened, it will work itself off the bolt and then the leg is totally disconnected from the skeleton. The first indication the bolt is unscrewing itself (no pun intended) is alot of play in the thigh at the joint.

oh.
LOL
These dolls are slowly making me realize what a huge waste of time they are LMAO

[Stepford_CT]

Drill and cotter pin? or is it too much of a hassle to get in there to do that?. It'd keep the nut in place. I gotta tighten hips, no hurry for that. she's not going to be needing running off anywhere.

First off, it's hardened steel and you can't drill through the bolt. Second, even if you could, there's no way to get a drill inside the doll. Third, even if you could do the first two, there's not enough bolt after the nut to put a drill hole into to insert a cotter pin and even if all three were possible, you would have to know exactly where to drill the hole so that the nut wouldn't loosen once the cotter pin is in place and that would require cutting the doll open and removing the U-joint assembly and then reinstalling and repairing the TPE a second time. No thanks.

If the nut isn't kept tightened, it will work itself off the bolt and then the leg is totally disconnected from the skeleton. The first indication the bolt is unscrewing itself (no pun intended) is alot of play in the thigh at the joint.

oh.
LOL
These dolls are slowly making me realize what a huge waste of time they are LMAO

The same can be said about a car, an appliance, a computer, or any other item. Nothing is perfectly made nowadays. When is the last time you saw a 10 year old Chevy on the road??

[Mr Franz]

Drill and cotter pin? or is it too much of a hassle to get in there to do that?. It'd keep the nut in place. I gotta tighten hips, no hurry for that. she's not going to be needing running off anywhere.

First off, it's hardened steel and you can't drill through the bolt. Second, even if you could, there's no way to get a drill inside the doll. Third, even if you could do the first two, there's not enough bolt after the nut to put a drill hole into to insert a cotter pin and even if all three were possible, you would have to know exactly where to drill the hole so that the nut wouldn't loosen once the cotter pin is in place and that would require cutting the doll open and removing the U-joint assembly and then reinstalling and repairing the TPE a second time. No thanks.

If the nut isn't kept tightened, it will work itself off the bolt and then the leg is totally disconnected from the skeleton. The first indication the bolt is unscrewing itself (no pun intended) is alot of play in the thigh at the joint.

oh.
LOL
These dolls are slowly making me realize what a huge waste of time they are LMAO

The same can be said about a car, an appliance, a computer, or any other item. Nothing is perfectly made nowadays. When is the last time you saw a 10 year old Chevy on the road??

My Chevy is 54 years old!

Hey, is there enough room at the end of the bolt to put a 2nd nut? Us old car guys use to do that to prevent critical bolts from backing off. You just put the 1st nut on as normal, holding it still with a wrench while you tighten the 2nd nut against it with another wrench. Sucker ain't going nowhere without using 2 wrenches again to get it off!

[RGC_0767]

Drill and cotter pin? or is it too much of a hassle to get in there to do that?. It'd keep the nut in place. I gotta tighten hips, no hurry for that. she's not going to be needing running off anywhere.

First off, it's hardened steel and you can't drill through the bolt. Second, even if you could, there's no way to get a drill inside the doll. Third, even if you could do the first two, there's not enough bolt after the nut to put a drill hole into to insert a cotter pin and even if all three were possible, you would have to know exactly where to drill the hole so that the nut wouldn't loosen once the cotter pin is in place and that would require cutting the doll open and removing the U-joint assembly and then reinstalling and repairing the TPE a second time. No thanks.

If the nut isn't kept tightened, it will work itself off the bolt and then the leg is totally disconnected from the skeleton. The first indication the bolt is unscrewing itself (no pun intended) is alot of play in the thigh at the joint.

oh.
LOL
These dolls are slowly making me realize what a huge waste of time they are LMAO

The same can be said about a car, an appliance, a computer, or any other item. Nothing is perfectly made nowadays. When is the last time you saw a 10 year old Chevy on the road??

My Chevy is 54 years old!

Hey, is there enough room at the end of the bolt to put a 2nd nut? Us old car guys use to do that to prevent critical bolts from backing off. You just put the 1st nut on as normal, holding it still with a wrench while you tighten the 2nd nut against it with another wrench. Sucker ain't going nowhere without using 2 wrenches again to get it off!

thought of a backer nut came to me last night.
My Mustang, got 18 years, Honda currently 20. Even old computers, sort of worthless now, wont run the new software. They've been recycled.
Doubtful much made now lasts as long as old school.
I bet a second nut will help, nice one Mr. Franz.

[Stepford_CT]

Drill and cotter pin? or is it too much of a hassle to get in there to do that?. It'd keep the nut in place. I gotta tighten hips, no hurry for that. she's not going to be needing running off anywhere.

First off, it's hardened steel and you can't drill through the bolt. Second, even if you could, there's no way to get a drill inside the doll. Third, even if you could do the first two, there's not enough bolt after the nut to put a drill hole into to insert a cotter pin and even if all three were possible, you would have to know exactly where to drill the hole so that the nut wouldn't loosen once the cotter pin is in place and that would require cutting the doll open and removing the U-joint assembly and then reinstalling and repairing the TPE a second time. No thanks.

If the nut isn't kept tightened, it will work itself off the bolt and then the leg is totally disconnected from the skeleton. The first indication the bolt is unscrewing itself (no pun intended) is alot of play in the thigh at the joint.

oh.
LOL
These dolls are slowly making me realize what a huge waste of time they are LMAO

The same can be said about a car, an appliance, a computer, or any other item. Nothing is perfectly made nowadays. When is the last time you saw a 10 year old Chevy on the road??

My Chevy is 54 years old!

Hey, is there enough room at the end of the bolt to put a 2nd nut? Us old car guys use to do that to prevent critical bolts from backing off. You just put the 1st nut on as normal, holding it still with a wrench while you tighten the 2nd nut against it with another wrench. Sucker ain't going nowhere without using 2 wrenches again to get it off!

Not enough bolt for a second nut. Eve if there was you can't.get two wrenches up the anus to tighten them. I have to find a self locking nut.
And yes I said anus. That's where I am going inside the doll to tighten the nut as it is the only way without cutting the doll open.

[Mr Franz]

These guys may have what you need. https://www.fastenright.com/products/ge ... cking-nuts

[Booty Call Dolls]

https://www.dollforum.com/forum/viewtop ... 3&t=102144
Samara,
Is this something you can fix if Z one send us some platinum silicone?
Thanks
Jeff

[Fantastic Plastic]

If it helps any this is the fix I did on a shoulder and a hip when a weld popped holding the nut at a rotation joint.
I ended up using a cap head screw instead of a button head so I could get more torque on it, and also used Loctite 680 retaining compound (green) throughout the repair.
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=79459

[Stepford_CT]

If it helps any this is the fix I did on a shoulder and a hip when a weld popped holding the nut at a rotation joint.
I ended up using a cap head screw instead of a button head so I could get more torque on it, and also used Loctite 680 retaining compound (green) throughout the repair.
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=79459

I don't think you guys understand how the joint is constructed. The metal is U shaped with a hole in each side. The bolt is WELDED to the middle hole and cannot be removed. It is hardened steel which makes drilling into it impossible even in a vice. The bolt runs through the pelvic post. There is a washer on each side of the pelvic post. The nut is a M13 and is thick which is standard for this type of bolt (M13). There is not enough room to put two M13 nuts as the bolt shaft is not long enough for two. The TPE inside is practically dripping with oil which prevents any sort of epoxy (Loctite, JB Weld, etc) from drying properly. There is too much TPE to cut through from the outside to get to the nut to do any welding or use two wrenches; I opted to go up through the anus and cut the TPE from the inside to get to the nut and tighten it with a socket wrench.

[RGC_0767]

If it helps any this is the fix I did on a shoulder and a hip when a weld popped holding the nut at a rotation joint.
I ended up using a cap head screw instead of a button head so I could get more torque on it, and also used Loctite 680 retaining compound (green) throughout the repair.
viewtopic.php?f=229&t=79459

I don't think you guys understand how the joint is constructed. The metal is U shaped with a hole in each side. The bolt is WELDED to the middle hole and cannot be removed. It is hardened steel which makes drilling into it impossible even in a vice. The bolt runs through the pelvic post. There is a washer on each side of the pelvic post. The nut is a M13 and is thick which is standard for this type of bolt (M13). There is not enough room to put two M13 nuts as the bolt shaft is not long enough for two. The TPE inside is practically dripping with oil which prevents any sort of epoxy (Loctite, JB Weld, etc) from drying properly. There is too much TPE to cut through from the outside to get to the nut to do any welding or use two wrenches; I opted to go up through the anus and cut the TPE from the inside to get to the nut and tighten it with a socket wrench.

At least you are able to tighten it. which is good. may not be able to keep it tight permanent, but nothing is broken anyway
It look something like this?. I understand what you mean. there are pics of hip joints around here. Bolt welded to inside of U bracket

joint.jpg

[samara78]

https://www.dollforum.com/forum/viewtop ... 3&t=102144
Samara,
Is this something you can fix if Z one send us some platinum silicone?
Thanks
Jeff

Can't get at the link. I saw some pics of the damage. Call me if you can jeff. You have my number.