Personally, I think best angle of attack would be through the armpits. Its an area relatively close to the breasts and an not usually visible so scarring isn't too big of a deal. Potentially not as easy to repair as the back though, given this is an area stretched when the arm is moved. So perhaps not right at the pit, but an inch or so lower. Someone else can experiment with this - not me.ZZZZ wrote:If you had one, you could go in through the neck/vagina/anus, or maybe straight through center of the nipples
Note that the larger breasts models have even thicker TPE walls in the breasts. The 165K is maybe 3/4 inch and they really don't get that much thinner when stretched. If you were looking to remove material from the inside, and had a big enough opening, something that scraped the interior material away rather than sanded it down might be better. Perhaps something modified from a wood rasp or cheese grater would do. This is definitely an 'at your own risk' activity though.ZZZZ wrote:Maybe you don't _need_ to thin out the walls with sanding - if you add a volume of slime (or whatever) greater than the original volume of air, the walls would be stretched thinner than they were, right?
TPE tends to revert to its original mold. Otherwise we'd see loose skin in all the joints (knees, hips, shoulders, elbows) through repeated movement. Perhaps if you heated the TPE up to near melting it would become prone to accepting a new shape, but this would be incredibly difficult to do without damaging the doll.CF wrote:Would inflating the breasts with air, repeatedly and in gradually greater increments before filling with slime, help to stretch and thin the TPE walls?
If anything, repeated movement tends to contract TPE, not loosen it, as air works its way into the porous TPE and dries it out. This is why the bendy areas require more oil replenishment during maintenance than other areas.
I was thinking the same thing reading earlier posts on this thread. The 165K's breasts are already plenty heavy enough - it would definitely need something other than pure slime or they'd be so heavy to possibly tear off the frame (particularly if put in doggystyle position, which is where I was going with the need to support the weight by tying to the skeleton's back bars. Ping pong balls came to mind first but obviously much too large. Plastic beads perhaps too small to offset much of the weight. Need something in-between. B-B sized or perhaps slightly larger peanut-sized plastic pellets would be just about ideal. Not even sure it has to be plastic - Styrofoam pellets might do as well assuming they don't soak up the slime.SC Kline wrote:I would suggest that anyone who wants to fill breasts that are already super-huge might consider using hollow beebee pellets to mix in with the slime. This way you'd be getting the softness with less weight while still maintaining that "malleability." I was thinking of this the other night: When I was a kid, I had one of those really cheap plastic "wannabe" toy guns that shot out these tiny plastic, hollow pellets. If one were to mix those with the slime, say 50/50, I'm sure you would not be able to feel any pellets through the skin. So yeh, an extra filler that allows the slime to do what it does, with less weight.
With "bones", ball joints for lowest knuckles and hinges for the rest instead of wires.SC Kline wrote:4. tight-gripping fingers.