Are my expectations unrealistic?

[mala78]

I've had issues with my WM 163CM Hcup after our first night together. I opted for the insert and used the method here to install: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waSSAEgSbzI

During our first night, I also used this position several times as well. It was a good night! That said I did everything I was supposed to do leading up to the "first time", washing, cleaning and powdering. However the next morning, I noticed a small vaginal tear. This was the first night! $2.7K Cdn and that's what happens?!?! Anyway, I digress just a bit frustrated. Didn't ever contact my vendor about the issues at all. So now comes the repairs. I'm a pretty resourceful guy and can figure most things out myself. So I ordered the premium care kit (please take more of my money). And once it arrived, I started second guessing using the TPE glue to do a repair down there. As I've read the horror stories. So I bought a soldering iron and started with the foot repair.

So now the plan is to cut a small piece from the neck and do a melt and fuse method for the vaginal tear. Will have to use all of my patience to undertake the task ahead. I almost feel like a surgeon going in to the OR to do a transplant.

If the TPE is stressed when the legs are spread open and stress on TPE can cause tears than why don't they make the mold with open legs so it's not stressed?

TPE can be very stretchy as long as it is in normal temperature if you apply heat while it is stressed it will tear apart immediately

Unfortunately indigo's repair kit is only for small holes and bubbles , it wont hold high stressed areas like vagina, i know it bcs i ve tested.

That's why i am selling it

viewtopic.php?f=128&t=101056&p=1323604#p1323604

if your order has not need shipped i suggest you to ask for cancellation or return it without opening it. Save your money.

All you need for repairs is a heat gun and a TPE piece in case you need to add material .

Most vendors are selling TPE pieces , eg https://www.dollsclub.com/accessories/tpe-test-pieces/

This topic will help you
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=99309&hilit=heat+gun&start=45

As for the vagina tear you have..

take a photo of the tear make a new topic and ask for help from experts, Anung, samara78 and RGC who is very very very helpful TDF member.

Ps For the insert i am using baby oil or Vaseline when i wan to install it or unistall it.

[siliconelover]

If the TPE is stressed when the legs are spread open and stress on TPE can cause tears than why don't they make the mold with open legs so it's not stressed?

You need a Ruby13.

[RGC_0767]

As for the vagina tear you have..

take a photo of the tear make a new topic and ask for help from experts, Anung, samara78 and RGC who is very very very helpful TDF member.

Ps For the insert i am using baby oil or Vaseline when i wan to install it or unistall it.

Another helpful guy here is Fantastic Plastic. He's done many modifications with melting TPE to his lady(s).
Most important, is having good ventilation when melting this stuff. I did a marathon melting practice session one day, and I did not use my respirator, I have one for painting and it helps, but did not use it. I did not feel too good after Just so first time melters know. It's toxic. I proved that to myself LOL

The kit you bought looks sophisticated Mala78... I've used a homemade Xylene TPE paste that has taken me a few months to get the recipe to a safe level to be used. It'll fill pretty good in an worn elbow or knee. But not too great for vagina tears. Not meant for that anyway. Just playing with experiments is all.
Not suggesting anyone use straight up Xylene on their doll. Disaster will follow.... guaranteed!!

[mala78]

As for the vagina tear you have..

take a photo of the tear make a new topic and ask for help from experts, Anung, samara78 and RGC who is very very very helpful TDF member.

Ps For the insert i am using baby oil or Vaseline when i wan to install it or unistall it.

Another helpful guy here is Fantastic Plastic. He's done many modifications with melting TPE to his lady(s).
Most important, is having good ventilation when melting this stuff. I did a marathon melting practice session one day, and I did not use my respirator, I have one for painting and it helps, but did not use it. I did not feel too good after Just so first time melters know. It's toxic. I proved that to myself LOL

The kit you bought looks sophisticated Mala78... I've used a homemade Xylene TPE paste that has taken me a few months to get the recipe to a safe level to be used. It'll fill pretty good in an worn elbow or knee. But not too great for vagina tears. Not meant for that anyway. Just playing with experiments is all.
Not suggesting anyone use straight up Xylene on their doll. Disaster will follow.... guaranteed!!

Unfortunately all vendors in order to sell it they advertise that it can fix vagina and anus tears which is a total lie.

http://de.dollstudio.org/sites/default/ ... 7-05_0.pdf

http://de.dollstudio.org/sites/default/ ... 017-05.pdf

if you want to repair the love holes just for the look the kit is ok, but the moment you will put your thing in there the construction will collapse.

Another thing that is making me mad is that the site from i ve bought it doesnt allow you to leave a review for the product .....

https://www.dollsfrance.com/entretien-e ... ue-wmdolls

it has 5 positive reviews from previous customers ok but there is no option to add mine....hmmmmm food for thought....

[haremlover]

This is why I have commented elsewhere that TPE dolls are more of the nature of consumables.

They must be used sexually with _a_lot_ of lubrication.

I bought a TPE doll second hand and was caught as a result of prior damage in the vagina area. I tried heat, but probably too hot, and didn't succeed in a repair that would stand up to a use, and gave the doll away to a lady who likes dolls and obviously doesn't collect them for sex.

This is why the silicone brands are worthy of serious attention. JM, Z-One and Sanhui in the cheaper domain and DS just a little more.

Best wishes

Harem

[curiousswede]

I must ask: I will get a WM168E 2018 Late April Batch from an approved vendor that I intend to use for sex on a daily basis. Should I powder the doll on a daily basis then or should I only do so when feeling her to be slightly tacky?

When it is said to use enough lubrication, are we talking about only in the insert and around its labia? Or are we talking also about using lubrication around inside the thighs near the labia? It seems to me that you are limitied then in different kinds of missionary positions unless you want to destroy your doll in one go!

Or is this more a case of "Friday car"? It makes me nervous about having sex with a freakin' doll I mean I will be careful, take good care and all that, but I also want to just pound away like maniac for enjoyment, or is that just a "no-no" with most TPE dolls today? Sry if I sound a little bit bitter, I will get over it.

[haremlover]

Lubrication - pack vagina entrance at least with vaseline for a day or so and possibly repeat monthly. Smear vaseline on the groin junction with upper thigh also.

Possibly twice a week lubricate with baby oil for sex and the rest of the time a good water based lube.

This will stop friction damage to the TPE. Other people with more continuous sex requirements from dolls might comment further

Best wishes

Harem

[Dollstudio]

Unfortunately all vendors in order to sell it they advertise that it can fix vagina and anus tears […]

Actually, none of the referenced appendices contains the word "tear".
Also, the product page doesn't contain any mentioning of tears, either.

Try reading the product description before complaining. First paragraph reads:

The TPE Repair Kit by Indigo Individual allows to fix injuries in TPE love dolls with material loss.

If it is still not clear what the intended uses are, try reading the manual before complaining. The introduction starts like so:

The TPE Repair Kit is designed to flexibly repair any form of abrasions, fractions, holes, open air bubbles and breakouts where TPE material is no longer present.

And then in bold letters:

The TPE paste is not a TPE adhesive!

The solvent is not a TPE adhesive!

It is really beyond me how we could even more explicitely explain what the repait kit is (a filler for material loss) and what it is not (TPE glue).

Sandro

[pedroza]

Is it unrealistic to expect a sex doll to survive having sex?
No!! It's a sex doll. It's going to get pounded and pounded hard.

I personally wouldn't care if the fingers are going every which way, but there's really no excuse for fragility.
Quality wire is cheap. Cheap wire is cheap. This is a premium product, use quality wire.

This thread highlights issues with the hands, feet and sexytime areas. But what about torso durability?
I would expect a metal skeleton to be durable. It's metal.
What I'm interested in is how a doll would stand up to some rather extreme yoga positions, like this:



That is called the King Pigeon pose. Here's another one:



That one's nice because the naughty bits are closer to standing height.
Very few women can achieve such positions, even less could do it in that position.
But it should be no problem for a sex doll if the back was supported. I'd compromise on the head on the first one, it doesn't have to go back that far.

Clearly the belly is featured very prominently in these poses. The midsection could see some rough treatment in the heat of the moment.
I would think that to be generally the case of fitness dolls. They have abs for a reason, so physical attention should not be unexpected.
Obviously you can't expect a doll to survive being used like a BOB Body Opponent, but it shouldn't be a Photography Queen, either.

The answer should be somewhere in between.
This applies to dolls in general, not specifically TPE or the thread subject. Mainly interested in learning what sort of doll body can take it best.
Maybe there's no such thing. Maybe it's only a former gymnast, turned fitness model, turned stripper/hooker that I saw once years ago.
I'm 100% certain she could done it King Pigeon style, plus she was more ripped than either one of those girls. Still regret not getting that, cost be damned.

[RGC_0767]

As for the vagina tear you have..

take a photo of the tear make a new topic and ask for help from experts, Anung, samara78 and RGC who is very very very helpful TDF member.

Ps For the insert i am using baby oil or Vaseline when i wan to install it or unistall it.

Another helpful guy here is Fantastic Plastic. He's done many modifications with melting TPE to his lady(s).
Most important, is having good ventilation when melting this stuff. I did a marathon melting practice session one day, and I did not use my respirator, I have one for painting and it helps, but did not use it. I did not feel too good after Just so first time melters know. It's toxic. I proved that to myself LOL

The kit you bought looks sophisticated Mala78... I've used a homemade Xylene TPE paste that has taken me a few months to get the recipe to a safe level to be used. It'll fill pretty good in an worn elbow or knee. But not too great for vagina tears. Not meant for that anyway. Just playing with experiments is all.
Not suggesting anyone use straight up Xylene on their doll. Disaster will follow.... guaranteed!!

Unfortunately all vendors in order to sell it they advertise that it can fix vagina and anus tears which is a total lie.

http://de.dollstudio.org/sites/default/ ... 7-05_0.pdf

http://de.dollstudio.org/sites/default/ ... 017-05.pdf

if you want to repair the love holes just for the look the kit is ok, but the moment you will put your thing in there the construction will collapse.

Another thing that is making me mad is that the site from i ve bought it doesnt allow you to leave a review for the product .....

https://www.dollsfrance.com/entretien-e ... ue-wmdolls

it has 5 positive reviews from previous customers ok but there is no option to add mine....hmmmmm food for thought....

Thin material will just fall apart. Those PDF's the vag looks like it is very thin. I was gonna say it'll repair cosmetically You already did.
Using any sort of paste, it would have to be built up in light layers. Think of body work on cars. I've done lots of that. It's better to layer the bondo lightly and build up. Get a cleaner job than one big gob.
TPE paste and heat filling is no different. Heat filling in thin layers does build a strong bond.
Best to take the time than rush. End results always better.

[RGC_0767]

Is it unrealistic to expect a sex doll to survive having sex?
No!! It's a sex doll. It's going to get pounded and pounded hard.

I personally wouldn't care if the fingers are going every which way, but there's really no excuse for fragility.
Quality wire is cheap. Cheap wire is cheap. This is a premium product, use quality wire.

This thread highlights issues with the hands, feet and sexytime areas. But what about torso durability?
I would expect a metal skeleton to be durable. It's metal.
What I'm interested in is how a doll would stand up to some rather extreme yoga positions, like this:



That is called the King Pigeon pose. Here's another one:



That one's nice because the naughty bits are closer to standing height.
Very few women can achieve such positions, even less could do it in that position.
But it should be no problem for a sex doll if the back was supported. I'd compromise on the head on the first one, it doesn't have to go back that far.

Clearly the belly is featured very prominently in these poses. The midsection could see some rough treatment in the heat of the moment.
I would think that to be generally the case of fitness dolls. They have abs for a reason, so physical attention should not be unexpected.
Obviously you can't expect a doll to survive being used like a BOB Body Opponent, but it shouldn't be a Photography Queen, either.

The answer should be somewhere in between.
This applies to dolls in general, not specifically TPE or the thread subject. Mainly interested in learning what sort of doll body can take it best.
Maybe there's no such thing. Maybe it's only a former gymnast, turned fitness model, turned stripper/hooker that I saw once years ago.
I'm 100% certain she could done it King Pigeon style, plus she was more ripped than either one of those girls. Still regret not getting that, cost be damned.

Broken welds, broken bolts. They're making them heavier and bigger all the time. The tubing in dolls is very thin, so are the welds. The hardware is not of high quality. So we cannot expect a doll to emulate all positions a human can. Many times it may not be the quality of the doll. It may be the quality of the treatment of the doll. Even being gentle things snap!
The more crap they get these things to do, the more trouble owners will have. Squatting, shrugging shoulders, etc....
Yet they cannot seem to improve fingers. LOL
Spend a few more bucks and a bit of time?? No way, ship it!!!! good enough!!

[pedroza]

Broken welds, broken bolts. They're making them heavier and bigger all the time. The tubing in dolls is very thin, so are the welds. The hardware is not of high quality. So we cannot expect a doll to emulate all positions a human can. Many times it may not be the quality of the doll. It may be the quality of the treatment of the doll. Even being gentle things snap!
The more crap they get these things to do, the more trouble owners will have. Squatting, shrugging shoulders, etc....
Yet they cannot seem to improve fingers. LOL
Spend a few more bucks and a bit of time?? No way, ship it!!!! good enough!!

Disclosure: I'm a mechanical engineer with a couple of decades of experience.
This is not an inexpensive product. The "frame" should be able to withstand substantial abuse.
A small increase in tubing wall thickness would not even add much weight. Lighter metals, even less.
Look at this steel chart:

http://www.centralsteel.com/products/TUBE.php

IMO, the only reason for using very thin wall tubing is cheapness. Most of the weight is in the rubber. Rubber is not light.
I also think you're seeing weld penetration issues, which are exacerbated by using very thin tubing.
I've seen humans make many crappy welds, but welding very thin tubing is not easy because it's really easy to burn though, leading to high scrap rates.
This is low volume manufacturing. To check every weld requires a lot of QA. If robots made robot dolls, things would improve immensely.
In our products, we use many kinds of steel tube frame weldments. They are not expensive to manufacture and almost never break even when used by very heavy people.

The hardware thing, inexcusable. The difference in cost between Grade 2 and Grade 5 hardware is miniscule, as is locking and non-locking hardware.
Grade 5 hardware should never be broken by a person. But in the unlikely event that it did fail in testing, then use Grade 8 hardware. It's not that expensive, either.

I can understand the issues with the naughty bits, they're rubber.
But structural issues on a rather expensive "quality" product should not happen. It really is all about the quality of the doll. She should not break!

Even so, I believe it is very important to relieve as much stress on the doll as possible.
So, it's important that it be properly supported so that even exotic positions can be achieved.
I have a device called a True Back which would fully support a doll's torso with the back very arched. Place a structure under it to achieve the proper height.
Simple, plus it insures that the arms and legs can be placed in the desired positions without seeing loads.
So, unless the materials used on the torso (foam and rubber??) are delicate, I don't see why one couldn't go to town on a doll's midsection as hard as the openings.

[RGC_0767]

Broken welds, broken bolts. They're making them heavier and bigger all the time. The tubing in dolls is very thin, so are the welds. The hardware is not of high quality. So we cannot expect a doll to emulate all positions a human can. Many times it may not be the quality of the doll. It may be the quality of the treatment of the doll. Even being gentle things snap!
The more crap they get these things to do, the more trouble owners will have. Squatting, shrugging shoulders, etc....
Yet they cannot seem to improve fingers. LOL
Spend a few more bucks and a bit of time?? No way, ship it!!!! good enough!!

Disclosure: I'm a mechanical engineer with a couple of decades of experience.
This is not an inexpensive product. The "frame" should be able to withstand substantial abuse.
A small increase in tubing wall thickness would not even add much weight. Lighter metals, even less.
Look at this steel chart:

http://www.centralsteel.com/products/TUBE.php

IMO, the only reason for using very thin wall tubing is cheapness. Most of the weight is in the rubber. Rubber is not light.
I also think you're seeing weld penetration issues, which are exacerbated by using very thin tubing.
I've seen humans make many crappy welds, but welding very thin tubing is not easy because it's really easy to burn though, leading to high scrap rates.
This is low volume manufacturing. To check every weld requires a lot of QA. If robots made robot dolls, things would improve immensely.
In our products, we use many kinds of steel tube frame weldments. They are not expensive to manufacture and almost never break even when used by very heavy people.

The hardware thing, inexcusable. The difference in cost between Grade 2 and Grade 5 hardware is miniscule, as is locking and non-locking hardware.
Grade 5 hardware should never be broken by a person. But in the unlikely event that it did fail in testing, then use Grade 8 hardware. It's not that expensive, either.

I can understand the issues with the naughty bits, they're rubber.
But structural issues on a rather expensive "quality" product should not happen. It really is all about the quality of the doll. She should not break!

Even so, I believe it is very important to relieve as much stress on the doll as possible.
So, it's important that it be properly supported so that even exotic positions can be achieved.
I have a device called a True Back which would fully support a doll's torso with the back very arched. Place a structure under it to achieve the proper height.
Simple, plus it insures that the arms and legs can be placed in the desired positions without seeing loads.
So, unless the materials used on the torso (foam and rubber??) are delicate, I don't see why one couldn't go to town on a doll's midsection as hard as the openings.

Dolls are made from TPE,(Thermoplastic Elastomer) And silicone. not rubber. If they were rubber they'd weigh a ton, and would be 5000 bucks for an 75 cm doll
They'll not be able to make something to withstand a football team jumping on it, and keep their costs low.
This doll stuff is still in it's infancy. If a North American company can show 'em all how it's done, then do it.... Realdolls according to many owners past and present, are not worth the price tag, but they do enjoy them. And treat them respectfully.
That's what it's all about.

[pedroza]

Dolls are made from TPE,(Thermoplastic Elastomer) And silicone. not rubber. If they were rubber they'd weigh a ton, and would be 5000 bucks for an 75 cm doll
They'll not be able to make something to withstand a football team jumping on it, and keep their costs low.
This doll stuff is still in it's infancy. If a North American company can show 'em all how it's done, then do it.... Realdolls according to many owners past and present, are not worth the price tag, but they do enjoy them. And treat them respectfully.
That's what it's all about.

Agree that elastomers not rubber per se. They are what I call "glorified rubber".
The point I was making is that there should not be structural issues. Broken bolts, never.

Thank you for enlightening me about these shortcomings.
It got me thinking that instead of looking at the doll's "skeleton" (it is what it is), I should focus on the support structure, which can be fully controlled.
Think "erector set" (in more ways than one!) for a doll, designed to be verstatile enough to get her into any position, stress free.
It could even provide motion, meaning less stress for me as well.
Sounds like a lot more fun than designing consumer products. A lot of creativity has gone into the elaborate bondage devices I've seen.

Of course I wouldn't expect a doll to be able to take being jumped on.
Would the midsection be able to take some pressure and return to its original shape? It's a reasonable expectation for a cheap foam cushion.
Spending good money a doll with abs only to find out that they're "look, but don't touch" would be rather disappointing.

[RGC_0767]

Dolls are made from TPE,(Thermoplastic Elastomer) And silicone. not rubber. If they were rubber they'd weigh a ton, and would be 5000 bucks for an 75 cm doll
They'll not be able to make something to withstand a football team jumping on it, and keep their costs low.
This doll stuff is still in it's infancy. If a North American company can show 'em all how it's done, then do it.... Realdolls according to many owners past and present, are not worth the price tag, but they do enjoy them. And treat them respectfully.
That's what it's all about.

Agree that elastomers not rubber per se. They are what I call "glorified rubber".
The point I was making is that there should not be structural issues. Broken bolts, never.

Thank you for enlightening me about these shortcomings.
It got me thinking that instead of looking at the doll's "skeleton" (it is what it is), I should focus on the support structure, which can be fully controlled.
Think "erector set" (in more ways than one!) for a doll, designed to be verstatile enough to get her into any position, stress free.
It could even provide motion, meaning less stress for me as well.
Sounds like a lot more fun than designing consumer products. A lot of creativity has gone into the elaborate bondage devices I've seen.

Of course I wouldn't expect a doll to be able to take being jumped on.
Would the midsection be able to take some pressure and return to its original shape? It's a reasonable expectation for a cheap foam cushion.
Spending good money a doll with abs only to find out that they're "look, but don't touch" would be rather disappointing.

Really do not know how to term it. My dolls chest has a fiberglass "board" behind the breasts for strength. Goes from above the breasts and just below. I've seen a picture on here, but cannot remember which thread it was. Vaginal cavity ends around navel Maybe a bit above.
Not sure if they'd have a similar "board" for abs. Need room for vaginal cavity.
I've not broken anything on her, except fingers.
Has become loose at hips. She is not a standing doll, so it's not a big problem. If she was, then it would be. But will have to cut in there one day and see if they can be snugged up. Arm joints are still good and snug. But I've moved the legs a lot. So makes sense they may loosen sooner.
Skeleton, esp. from below breast should be built much stronger to withstand the weight. These big breasted dolls add so much more weight and stress on everything. Very unlikely they can stand free. Pros here recommend always have a standing doll leaning on something for support, which is wise. But it does not take any stress off of knees,hips or ankles. There is even plastic parts being used in joints. Not a great idea IMHO.
There is no set rule how long these dolls are supposed to last. No guarantees
Once you've had a doll for a couple weeks to a month, yours for life LOL