I'm a Newbie with a thrilling discovery
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I'm a Newbie with a thrilling discovery
I joined this forum to learn what to do, as well as learning Many other things I should've known before buying. I tried taking the black stains out with Peroxide and seemed to have no results.
Feeling desperate and willing to take a RISK, I tried something no one ever spoke of (in the posts I read.) OxyClean!
I first tried the powder placed on damp "skin" and got no results and no apparent changes to the TPE. Then I dissolved the OxyClean in hot water, let it cool, than placed soaked paper towels on one of the worst stains and left it there for an hour.
The stain was gone!!!
It's been only another hour so I have yet to see if there's any long-term harm to the TPE. I will keep you informed.
OOPS! I now searched on "OxyClean" (which I should've done before trying) and realize I'm not the Discoverer. In any case, I'm still thrilled I can get her clean again and soon.
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Re: I'm a Newbie with a thrilling discovery
- Aikolover1
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Re: I'm a Newbie with a thrilling discovery
KellyJ 165cm Sanhui
April. 145cm Sanhui
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Re: I'm a Newbie with a thrilling discovery
BUT since only experienced moderators read my messages (due to being a newbie), could any one of you please tell me a serious, no kidding maximum temperature for TPE. I can't believe there isn't clear scientific evidence of the max. temp.
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By the way, all members can see your messages after we approve them.
- Maviarab
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Re: I'm a Newbie with a thrilling discovery
As my friend Slew noted, once your posts are approved all forum members can see/read them. For information please see our New Member Welcome Page.
With that out of the way, to answer some of your questions, the melting temp of TPE is HOT...very HOT. I cannot recall the exact temp (many here will be able to tell you)....but you're talking soldering iron hot
As for the stains, the problem here is two-fold (or even three-fold really) in that no one can say for sure (yet) what the exact long term problems may be from using certain cleaning solutions. This is fact. Sure the outside of her may look great...but what about inside?
You see the main issue here with removing stains is:
1. Is the stain actually removed? Is your cloth the colour of the stain?
2. Has the stain just been bleached?
3. Has the stain just been pushed further inside the tpe/doll?
There is a world of difference between 'removing' a stain...and 'hiding' a stain. Many methods work...are they all good for your lady? Time will tell I guess. This is also compounded further in that so many manufacturers are now using their own 'blends' that what works on one will not work on another etc etc.
Best rule of thumb is, test, test and test again with an item to see if it will stain or not. May I ask what doll you actually have? Company she came from etc?
Mavi
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Re: I'm a Newbie with a thrilling discovery
Maviarab: I think "3. Has the stain just been pushed further inside the tpe/doll?" applies in my case. The stain migrated back to the surface. I used to manage an environmental Superfund site cleanup--I see the same challenges with TPE. CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG, but I've come to a conclusion that regarding Stains, Dyeing and TPE, we need to think about the microscopic level where we have something like coral in the ocean. A giant stain might be on the coral reef and we can clean it, up to the surface of coral, but it's porous and the water will drift back and bring the rest of the stain. As I understand TPE, it's porous plastic saturated with oil. Oil is what eagerly soaks up ink, dye and whatever. The stains FLOAT. We'd have to remove the oil from the whole doll.
I'm delaying the job of adding yellow to my pink doll until I've repeatedly de-stained her until it doesn't come back. May be while, but I'll keep ya'll informed.
- Dollarhyde
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Re: I'm a Newbie with a thrilling discovery
Glad you found a way to remove the stain many times you could also use mineral oil and that will remove any surface stains but because all dolls will continue to outgas it will take a bit of time but it will eventually come out.
http://www.dollalbum.com/dollgallery/in ... ?cat=13267
"Dammit Jim I'm a doctor, not a doll maker!"
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I purchased her purely for photo purposes, but sex doll skeletons are SO LAME mine is nearly useless for that. For example, they have No Shoulder Blades. Humans (and all mammals) have two nearly-end-to-end joints in the shoulder. The arm attaches to the shoulder blade and it attaches to the collar bone. This allows our shoulder to go up to our ear or nearly as low as our nipple, as well as shift forward or backward. Dolls have no ability to do this and makes photography versatility very low. AND This Is Why Armpits Come Apart. There is too much movement in a tiny area. I KNOW I can make a better doll skeleton, but I'm certain the design will immediately be stolen & copied and I'd get no return for my investment.