PLEASE HELP! KENNEDY SUFFERS MAJOR INJURY

[Dollsampler]

Hi MYGuy1740,

20180820_203030.jpg (215.69 KiB) Viewed 1503 times

You did Nothing wrong when your doll was leaning. She was leaning because the cracks in the hips pipe wall became so large that the pipe wall was tearing off.It broke off because it was at the final stage of weakness.
The tearing off of the hips pipe wall alongside the Weld of the spin piece is obviously a common thing because that is not a good design.
As Jeff reminded it when the legs are taken up and the hips bolts lock the torque which is transmitted trough this upper wall piece of the hips pipe to the U piece (supporting the spin hinges) may easily reach 20 kgs time one meter. So the two welds back and forth on this hips pipe wall take a tearing force of 1000 kgs on one side (a compression force of 1000 kgs on the other Weld)

That is a bad design to Simply Weld the U piece base on only one side of the hips pipe wall. Very often and that is your case, the Weld has been too deep, has molten the pipe wall (that is very thin Stainless steel) and weaken its resistance to the 1000kgs tearing force I talk about before.The wall start to crack very quickly and finally the tearing off get complete.


Some new good design dont use this U piece welded to a single pipe wall design. Some use a pass trough bolt in order to use both Walls of the hips pipe. Some interlock a spin pipe (instead of the U piece) into the hips pipe and Weld. Such design will obviously never break.

As you have knowledge of mechanical engineering it should not be a great problem for you to make a new junction of the U piece to the (now holed at the upper wall) hips pipe using a pass trough bolt and neatly interlocked junction pieces designed by you.
I am afraid that otherwise even if they replace the body they will require that you pay their shipping cost as per their usual contracts.

[creativespirit58]

hello.this posting is very helpful.and you are not alone in this situation. this is why i went ahead and got more dolls.although i too have experienced this.and would like to know how to contact the Samara,or to whom stated they could do repairs on the skeleton.i have one where the hip broke. and would like to send,post pictures to the correct persons.to see if they can offer advice ? thank you please see picture of my dolls.

[Booty Call Dolls]

Dollsampler,
Physics was my best subject in college.
Jeff


MIGuy1740,
Thank you and we wish you the best.
Jeff

[Stepford_CT]

.i have one where the hip broke. and would like to send,post pictures to the correct persons.to see if they can offer advice ?.

My doll suffered a broken right hip. The bolt and nut are welded at the nut end at the factory. My doll's broken hip was as a result of the bolt breaking at the head. This bolt is welded to the u-joint meaning there is NO WAY to remove it. Your only option is to ask Jeff to order you a replacement u-joint. These u-joints are used all over the skeleton.

To remove the broken u-joint, you will need to cut on the outside of the hip with a SHARP knife and make it a straight cut and use an allen wrench to remove the bolt securing the leg to the u-joint. You will then need to go through the anus and, using a knife, cut the TPE so you can access the u-joint from the inside. Since the bolt is broken, it's a matter of removing the broken piece along with the two spacers and make sure you pay attention to which way they face as they are concave. The nut and bolt are 13mm. Remove the broken u-joint through the side cut. Going through the anus is the least destructive way of replacing this part. Your other option is to cut the front of the doll and end up damaging the vaginal canal which will ruin your sexual experience.

When you replace the u-joint, you will need to attach it to the leg first; this makes it easier to attach it to the hip. You will need to order two 13mm 1.75 pitch THIN nuts so one can be used as a lock nut. The reason for thin nuts is because there is not enough bolt to put two full size nuts on. Putting a lock washer on between the nut and the u-joint doesn't work; it will work itself loose with the doll's leg motion. Forget about using Loctite or JB Weld; the TPE is too moist to allow proper curing and the Loctite will just end up staining your doll blue. The best tool to use to tighten the nuts is a 13mm socket and wrench.

Someone above suggested using a lock washer. It didn't work for me. The reason being: as you move the doll's leg forward and backward, it causes the nut to loosen regardless of a lock washer since both rotate with the leg motion. The nut will turn in a loosening direction but will not turn in a tightening direction. This is why they weld the nut to the bolt at the factory.

Hope this helps.

[BWheeler1]

Something that may work to stop the bolt from loosening is, believe it or not, POR-15. I know it's a rust inhibitor, but if you're using it, you have to be extra careful not to get it on any bolts that you ever want to remove or you'll have to cut them off. If you get it in the channel of the can where the lid goes on, like on a paint can, you will never get the lid off. I have used it to fuse metal together that was too rusty to weld. It also cures better with moisture. It doesn't "dry", it cures by chemical reaction. It will not stain a doll unless you drip some on her. It will never bleed through TPE, or anything for that matter, once it cures. Because, and the manufacturer states this, there is not a solvent that exists that will cut, thin, or remove it once it cures. Acid from batteries won't even etch it. Paint thinner and brake fluid wipe right off of it. TPE oil would do no more to it than water. So if you wanted that bolt to NEVER loosen, you could degrease it and then put a slight bit of POR-15 on the threads, and it isn't coming off. You would, however, need to put Vaseline or grease on the parts you actually want to be able to move and take care not to get any there. I've dealt with this stuff for years, and I've seen what it can do. Once it cures, the only way to get it off is to grind it off. As a matter of fact, if you get it on your hands, you have to stop what you're doing immediately and clean it off with thinner BEFORE it cures. Because if it cures on your skin, only time will remove it. Trust me, I tried everything from hand cleaner to thinner, all the way to an industrial concrete floor cleaner made for cleaning oil spills that turned my fingernails brown and made them as soft as my skin. Nope, didn't cut the POR.

[Booty Call Dolls]

This is what happened inside her.
This shows cleanly were the weld went in this doll.
Jeff

[siliconelover]

Good, valuable information in these photos Jeff.

Once manufacturers understand that we understand what is going on inside these dolls and what is causing failures hopefully they will pick up their game, make improvements and evolve.

[Dolls Art]

The hip area is poorly constructed and welded even worse.
just my 2cents

[Stepford_CT]

Good, valuable information in these photos Jeff.

Once manufacturers understand that we understand what is going on inside these dolls and what is causing failures hopefully they will pick up their game, make improvements and evolve.

The only way to get their attention in this matter is to avoid buying dolls with this skeleton design. They’ll have no choice but to redesign the skeleton.

[Boobman]

MIGuy,

This is possibly what happened, or thr weld just broke loose. this looks catastrophic here:




which should look something like this not broken.

20180820_203030.jpg

Sorry to hear about this happening. I just do not think her back should have broken.
Looks like the skeletons are getting cheaper built as of late... with the secret swap from hinged to goose neck we had a while back, to now thin metal which is technically overloaded by the doll's weight.

That pipe in the top photo is so way way thin you would be lucky if it supported a all cotton batting doll. I hope this is not the standard gauge wall thickness of our dolls skeletons. The metal in the pic looks like the thickness you would get in a flux brush used for soldering.

[siliconelover]

Good, valuable information in these photos Jeff.

Once manufacturers understand that we understand what is going on inside these dolls and what is causing failures hopefully they will pick up their game, make improvements and evolve.

The only way to get their attention in this matter is to avoid buying dolls with this skeleton design. They’ll have no choice but to redesign the skeleton.

Absolutely. But we must give them a chance to improve. I don't think they are doing this on purpose. The TPE doll industry in China is still relatively new in that their tech is now being real world / life tested and faults are showing up. There is room for improvement throughout their entire process and system starting with communication, ordering to manufacturing and shipping.

If they fail to pay attention to these flaws and our concerns, then we need to stop purchasing from these manufacturers.

I remember back in the day when Abyss was using pop rivets in it's skeletons and there was a year or two that Realdolls backs were breaking at an alarming rate because of faulty design. The threads are here. Matt responded by correcting the design, improving and upgrading the skeleton which corrected the problems. It was a long road to get to where he is today with his dolls. 20 years of evolving. You almost never hear of breakdowns in his dolls today. Hopefully the Chinese industry will follow suit and at a much quicker pace as they are able to in todays world. The ground work has already been laid. In this case. improve the intersection and joint.

It is up to us to bring these problems to their attention and this Forum is a great vehicle to do so. Guys like Jeff and responsible vendors who are in constant contact are invaluable in matters of this nature as all of us who are knowledgeable customers, enthusiasts and collectors are.

I have a bit of an inside track and just received a beautiful brand new just released YL Doll that got fucked up in shipping because of poor packaging and shipping practices and it was only in transit 5 days. I will be in contact regarding my issues after compiling all of my thoughts and suggestions in a professional manner. I will be posting here as well. Awareness is the key, to a better doll for you and me.

[Booty Call Dolls]

BWheeler1,
So POR-15 can be used like glue?
Jeff

[BWheeler1]

That's not its intended purpose, but if you get it on two pieces of metal and let it cure while they're together, it will fuse them together. I wouldn't just brush it into a crack and expect that to hold like a weld, because it dries so hard and there's such little surface area joined that it might crack. But sleeve another piece of tubing over that crack, paint it on, and clamp it together and it isn't coming apart. If any of my girls broke in this way, that's exactly what I would do if there were no recourse from the manufacturer. I would make a sleeve with the fitting for the joint on it, welded together outside the doll so as not to melt any TPE. Then I'd get it all fitted, degrease the area, and clamp the sleeve in place with a coating of it on both pieces where they meet. Let it cure with the doll still opened up, then put the TPE back together. And as I mentioned about keeping a bolt from loosening, if you get this stuff on a bolt accidentally and then try to loosen it, you will either strip it round or snap the head off before it'll turn. When I bought it from a vendor, I was warned about that. They told me to make sure I didn't get it on anything I wanted to ever take apart again. I have, of course, done exactly that by accident, and have had to grind bolts off and drilling them out as a result. So it isn't intended to be a glue, but it is definitely a side effect of it.

[Stepford_CT]

Good, valuable information in these photos Jeff.

Once manufacturers understand that we understand what is going on inside these dolls and what is causing failures hopefully they will pick up their game, make improvements and evolve.

The only way to get their attention in this matter is to avoid buying dolls with this skeleton design. They’ll have no choice but to redesign the skeleton.

Absolutely. But we must give them a chance to improve. I don't think they are doing this on purpose. The TPE doll industry in China is still relatively new in that their tech is now being real world / life tested and faults are showing up. There is room for improvement throughout their entire process and system starting with communication, ordering to manufacturing and shipping.

If they fail to pay attention to these flaws and our concerns, then we need to stop purchasing from these manufacturers.

I remember back in the day when Abyss was using pop rivets in it's skeletons and there was a year or two that Realdolls backs were breaking at an alarming rate because of faulty design. The threads are here. Matt responded by correcting the design, improving and upgrading the skeleton which corrected the problems. It was a long road to get to where he is today with his dolls. 20 years of evolving. You almost never hear of breakdowns in his dolls today. Hopefully the Chinese industry will follow suit and at a much quicker pace as they are able to in todays world. The ground work has already been laid. In this case. improve the intersection and joint.

It is up to us to bring these problems to their attention and this Forum is a great vehicle to do so. Guys like Jeff and responsible vendors who are in constant contact are invaluable in matters of this nature as all of us who are knowledgeable customers, enthusiasts and collectors are.

I have a bit of an inside track and just received a beautiful brand new just released YL Doll that got fucked up in shipping because of poor packaging and shipping practices and it was only in transit 5 days. I will be in contact regarding my issues after compiling all of my thoughts and suggestions in a professional manner. I will be posting here as well. Awareness is the key, to a better doll for you and me.

And how much time do we give them? Have they even responded on this forum to our posts of broken dolls? TPE dolls are new; however, China is notorious for stealing intellectual property including technology so it's not a stretch to say they have better designs. Look at 6YE skeletons; are you telling me it's a trade secret when the skeleton is splattered on 6YE's website?

I don't have an engineering degree, but even I can come up with a better pelvic design. What is stopping them from using a flat metal piece that attaches to the spine and to the hips instead of using a u-shaped welded design? The one piece metal plate could be bent at the ends to attach the legs. No welds to break.

They may not purposely be designing dolls to break; however, their design and their lack of interest and/or refusal to discuss with us the design flaws speaks for itself. They only care about sales and they figure that since people buy another DVD player when one flakes out that we will just as willingly plop down another pile of cash to buy another potentially defective doll.

Just my opinion.

[Mr Franz]

BWheeler1,
So POR-15 can be used like glue?
Jeff

I've used POR-15 in the course of auto restoration to encapsulate rust and prevent it from spreading. That's actually the intended purpose. While I've never used it as glue and would question it's effectiveness, I have used it to bridge a structural gap.

The last car I restored had an area in the trunk that had rusted away, leaving a gap about an inch wide and a foot long. It was near the upper seam where the trunk wall meets the fender and there was not enough access to weld in a patch. I treated the area with POR-15 to prevent further rusting and covered the gap with a thin layer of masking tape once the POR-15 had cured. I then painted over it with several more coats of POR-15. Got to tell you, once that cured, it'd take a hammer and chisel to break through it! Been there more than 15 years now. Not even a crack. Mind you, this area in under no stress at all. Not sure what the outcome would be otherwise.