The Doll Forum

Hey; Question? Anyone know what year Abyss switched from Tin Cure to Platinum Cure Silicone?

Thanks!

2009 late.

2009

I bought a Boy Toy doll in 2009 and after buying read about the new platinum silicone here so had to contact and confirm with Abyss that my doll would be poured with it.

My Erica was tin poured the last of the last of the real dolls! delivered 2/13/2009 my BoyToy miss Autumn Courtney was del 1/28/2009 plalnum cured!

Thanks guys, I was considering adopting a RealDoll, but her vintage is either 2007 or 2008 not for sure which. And I was thinking that she was most likely tin cured!

TripleA wrote:Thanks guys, I was considering adopting a RealDoll, but her vintage is either 2007 or 2008 not for sure which. And I was thinking that she was most likely tin cured!

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Most likely tin.

Definatly tin if real doll.
Boytoys were poured with platinum cured silicone from day one.

So true! Sam all of the Boy Toy Dolls were plstinum cured.

As others have said, All BoyToy dolls were created with Platinum and all RD2 dolls were created with platinum although the first generation platinum was very stiff. The Classic Realdolls were all Tin cured till about May-June of 2009 and then switched over to platinum. I have a classic body 1 doll that was delivered in September 2009 and she is made of the first generation platinum that is stiffer than even what was used in 2010 thru the beginning of 2013 as I have dolls from that era. From late spring 2013, the silicone began to be much softer as I have dolls from that period also and newer thru Jan 2017 which are the softest of them all. My 2009 platinum dolls production number is RD4454 and so if you ever run across an older RD doll for sale that is from that production number and after, be assured she will be made of platinum silicone so you can use that as a reference.

Thanks, I was pretty sure she was tin cure mostly because of the age and also because of the cracking that is there some of it all the way to the skeleton and from what I am told she hasn't been actively posed in a few years, it is a pita as she is still very beautiful, but I do believe that type of damage once it starts it will likely not stop, no matter how much you attempt to repair! Poor girl I don't see a good future for her!

There has been alot of misinformation about the tin cure silicone.
The two properties that were not good were- tear propagation and shape memory.
In other words that silicone can continue to tear, just like latex and the silicone can sag (compression damage)
Tear repair with two-part silicone and storage in the original mold position - the doll will last decades.
I still have two tin based dolls (Katelyn 2003 and Eadie 2008).
That being said the silicone of my latest doll Nov 2014 delivery, I far, far softer, smoother texture, less tacky and much stronger
than previous dolls. Buy new if you can. Repair is much, more difficult than you would expect.
More later,

So assuming that the repair is done correctly, could the tearing be stopped? It is located in the underarm area and on the upper arm. This goes all the way to the skeleton! I was afraid that this would continue if the doll were used very much for posing as she has been sitting static for a few years! There is also a rip in the back of her neck just above the hanging bolt if I remember!

CrazyCajun wrote:So assuming that the repair is done correctly, could the tearing be stopped? It is located in the underarm area and on the upper arm. This goes all the way to the skeleton! I was afraid that this would continue if the doll were used very much for posing as she has been sitting static for a few years! There is also a rip in the back of her neck just above the hanging bolt if I remember!

Once Tin cure starts to tear like that, it just further degrades and it is unstoppable. You may repair one area and later on another area will just crack open by itself and if the doll is used, the tearing will accelerate to the point where you just cannot do anything with it. It is a shame that Tin cure is that unstable and ages quickly and why Platinum cure replaced it in most applications as it is very stable.

I have bought a few dolls from other people and all are Platinum cure as I know that they will last much much longer. After seeing many Tin cure dolls starting to fall apart, I made the decision myself to not adopt any older Tin cure dolls as they will all disintegrate in due time no matter how much in repairs that you do to them.

I got to talk with the owner of this doll and here are a few photos of his Tin cure doll that just started falling apart while she was hanging in storage in his house. She is a 2003/2004 body 5 face 4 Leah doll that he has since 2004. He removed her lower her hip & leg section from her lower back when she fell apart and these shots are of her upper torso as you can see. Here is the link to that thread here on the Rd forum. Have a look at the photos that I posted. http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=88683

Thanks guys; One of those things that you really don't want to hear, but it is never the less what you need to know! Can't help but feel sad though as she is still very beautiful! Sad to see her degrade like that and know that nothing can be done!

dodgeman wrote:

CrazyCajun wrote:So assuming that the repair is done correctly, could the tearing be stopped? It is located in the underarm area and on the upper arm. This goes all the way to the skeleton! I was afraid that this would continue if the doll were used very much for posing as she has been sitting static for a few years! There is also a rip in the back of her neck just above the hanging bolt if I remember!

Once Tin cure starts to tear like that, it just further degrades and it is unstoppable. You may repair one area and later on another area will just crack open by itself and if the doll is used, the tearing will accelerate to the point where you just cannot do anything with it. It is a shame that Tin cure is that unstable and ages quickly and why Platinum cure replaced it in most applications as it is very stable.

Have a look at the photos that I posted. http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=88683

I have a different opinion on this. The tear continuing to re-open means that the tear was never fully closed or sealed. These deep tear
repairs are also done with silicone adhesive which is much harder than the original silicone. The combination of the partially closed tear
with the different stretch properties of the adhesive cause the tear to re-open. For high stress areas I have had good success
with internally adding a patch of nylon on the 'inside' of the tear next to the coring, then closing with the two-part silicone (tin-based).
All tears to tin are repairable. The thread with the body 5 - a big project but doable.