Sex toy design and materials

[MakerOfStuff]

Re: FleshLight Girls... I plan to make several models, and also to contract with (percentage of sales) or hire (one time payments) local ASU girls to mold their lady parts, and they can use their own image or just some image(s) off the web, and their real or a made up name for their design, and they can submit a design of their own, but I plan to make it so all of them can have any of the inner textures you wish.

And as I said, there should be nothing with a sharper curve than about 1/8inch, and nothing much harder than the DragonSkin+Slacker @ 1:1 (Maybe 4:3 or .75x as much Slacker as DragonSkin at the hardest, for the surface). So maybe at first I will just do a 1:1 and 1:2.5 layer liner, then a 1:0.75 and 1:1.5 ratio liner (Just the two) as first test liners for the Fleshlight, with the softer side the texture of the mold, and the other harder side the texture made by brushing it on (I plan to use or make a soft comb, long with short and wide spaced teeth), or a tooth brush (cut down to a row of bristles), or some other flat brush (for beards maybe), to make the ring shaped textures more consistent and easily.
Then you place the outer cylinder of the mold, seal it with perhaps gelatin (using the syringe injectors, without needles, heated liquid gelatin), and then start pouring in the Normal DragonSkin (For the outer coating, where you hold it, after coating the face and inner canal), and then finally fill with the soft stuff (After masking so the two parts can be separated later and the inner liner inverted for different texture and hardness on the surface).

I plan to make a lot of variations, and you will have to tell me how well they work, compared to others, since obviously I can only keep and test a few of them myself! Lol.

[r363b]

Most people on this forum have dolls which some, but not all, require inserts / sleeves. ... visit the doll manufacturing web sites to see the various size openings the dolls have for their inserts. There is not a standard size that all manufactures use. http://dollforum.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=68

Before you start making sleeves for sell to TDF members .. it is important to get feedback on what they want based on the dolls they own .. check these links on just 2 of many dolls and their inserts.
https://secure.realdoll.com/female-realdoll2-insert/
http://www.privateislandbeauties.com/ga ... /insert.do

I am sure people will be interested after you have perfected the silicone sleeve.

Good work and nice progress so far!

[MakerOfStuff]

Most people on this forum have dolls which some, but not all, require inserts / sleeves. ... visit the doll manufacturing web sites to see the various size openings the dolls have for their inserts. There is not a standard size that all manufactures use. http://dollforum.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=68

Before you start making sleeves for sell to TDF members .. it is important to get feedback on what they want .. check these links on just 2 of many doll inserts.
https://secure.realdoll.com/female-realdoll2-insert/
http://www.privateislandbeauties.com/ga ... /insert.do

I am sure people will be interested after you have perfected the silicone sleeve.

Good work and nice progress so far!

THANK YOU! I will check out the specs for inserts and match them soon.

WELL, I bought the Slide Surface Tension diffuser ($14 for .9lbs), so tomorrow I will do tests to see how effective it is.
It says it makes silicones capable or sliding across each other, which normally is not really possible even with the least tacky ones, but they dont know how effective it will be with these ones with up to 2x slacker to DragonSkin (66% total weight of slacker, max).
So tomorrow I plan to try just coating one already cured and see what happens (See notes below), and then to try perhaps one at 2x slacker, and one at 1.5x and one at 1:1 with Dragonskin.

I also got samples of DragonSkinFXpro, and Flex Foam IT 3,6, and 8 (Increasing in softness and decreasing in expansion as #s go up. About 8x to 15x I think were the expansion rates for these three softest ones). I have Soma Foama 15 (Softest Silicone Rubber in that product line. Not sure the actual difference yet). The problem was it tears too easy, does not stretch, and none of the foams really do, but the harder ones obviously are harder to tear.
These seem like the most cost effective way to fill the space in between, with any hardness I wish for! (I'm sure I could add Slacker to the foam also, but dont plan to try that yet. Its soft enough as is).
I did a test (Should be in the vids) with a white bumpy pad for a bike seat cover, made with the Soma Foama 15 encased in EcoFlex 00-10.
Also I discovered that it goes from white to brownish when in contact with natural latex (Which I use as a masking agent so things I pour into the Plaster wont bond to it, sink into its pores, but these Platinum cure Silicones wont cure on Latex or TPE, so I use Gelatin with Glycerin melted in the microwave to duplicate TPE material forms).

So tomorrow I should have the results from the Slide Tests, and hopefully I should get the first Gelatin Prototype done, designed off a modified FleshLight, perhaps total 9 or 10" long, 3" diameter face, and perhaps 2" diameter for the rest...
With DragonSkin @1:1 with Slacker (Give or take around 25%, so 75% to 125% as much Slacker as DragonSkin) and Slide and Thi-Vex to make the first layer around 1 to 3/16ths Inch thick, then either a second layer with less slacker and a Third with none, or maybe skip the third and balance the ratio on the second inner layer so its strong enough but not too stiff....
And then I will fill with the Soma Foama 15 and/or DragonSkin and/or EcoFlex 00-10 with at least 1:1 slacker, and/or EcoFlex Gel with none or with slacker (Plan to do a variety, and this part should be separate so you can change either one at will).
The foams always have to be encased/sealed btw, so they are not porous and more resistant to tearing. Probably I will stick with EcoFlex 00-10 for that (Just normal without slacker).

It says the Slide will take 24hrs of air to cause the surface to become slick (instead of sticky), and that it will eventually turn yellow, so it should be colored with the right Pigment (For Platinum Cure Silicone).

AND YES, THEY DO CONTAIN PLATINUM, AND THAT IS WHY THEY COST SO MUCH! (I talked with the guy at the place today).
And the Tin Cure ones contain Cyanide (Carbon and Nitrogen atoms with triple bonds, which bond to and tear apart organic molecules, hence its extreme toxicity, like the element Arsenic or the Carbohydrate -CHO molecule- 'Strychnine'), so although they may be able to cure on clay and other things containing sulfur they are not safe for food or personal products like these.

And I forgot to ask about the Additive they have to reduce the inability to cure Plat. Cure Silicones...
So since I cant get them to cure on the TPE, I just use Gelatin to copy and duplicate the form, THEN use the Silicone on that.
And with Plaster btw, it DID sink into and pollute the Plaster so I could not reuse it (Cook to around 300F+ and grind to VERY fine powder to make back into plaster of paris. Its really easy actually). Hence the need for liquid latex (Which the Silicone wont cure on though).
As I recall, you put at least two layers of the cure inhibitor reducer (whatever it was called), so they dont actually contact each other.
So it MIGHT work for pouring Silicone on/in TPE.

ALSO... All their Hard plastics melt or deform between 100-200F, whereas all the ones I recycled (#s 1-7) melted around 300F+, except #4 (LDPE) which started to melt around 260.
SO NONE OF THOSE WILL WORK FOR MELTING TPE into. BUT....

However he told me that melting Pewter or Tin (With antimony and bismuth to make Pewter I think), in an oven, is a bad idea, because it will coat the oven and alter food taste (Though its not toxic, unless there is lead in it), so instead I should just use a steel can and propane torch to melt and pour into plaster, and he said you can pour it on paper and it will probably only brown it, and it hardens on the surface really fast when poured into a cool plaster mold.

SO, To melt the TPE, I should just stick with EcoFlex or DragonSkin mold liners, inside Plaster of Paris for frame/strength, and melt TPE into that. The problem is it does not ever liquefy, but still needs to be pressure injection molded to fit in the cracks.

So I plan to make a metal injector, with metal coil and electrically heated oil to make it a specific temp (With regulators), later on, or just set it in a pot of boiling oil (with a thermometer) to get it heated to 300-310F to inject the TPE into the Silicone and Plaster mold.

When I can make the TPE mold out of Tin/Pewter it will work better though, as that does not melt to 450F (For just tin, maybe over 500F for Pewter), so I can melt all the recyclable plastics in it (Except ABS and PVC which are not safe to try melting. Poly Carbonate is #7, the only one I have not tested yet).

[MakerOfStuff]

WOW, these look amazing, but I expect problems in function, where the labia I bet fold inward and you probably will slide in the space between the insert during use sometimes.
Seems it really needs to be more like the FleshLight where the face of it is outside the opening, but it should cup backwards so the edges are tight against the body, so the seam is barely noticeable instead.

I can make then anyway though. For that one in the picture here I would probably need to have one to duplicate though...

But these do look VERY Realistic I must say...
https://secure.realdoll.com/female-realdoll2-insert/

[MakerOfStuff]

NOTE: Slide (Surface Tension Diffuser, to make these Silicone's not sticky), contains allergens!
WHO HERE IS ALLERGIC TO THESE...
Durian, Tree nuts and nut derivatives, or Musk Thistle Seed?

They cant use these Silicone products with the Slide added. Here are some pages on these allergens...
"The durian (/ˈdjʊriən/)[4] is the fruit of several tree species belonging to the genus Durio. The name "durian" is derived from the Malay-Indonesian languages word for duri or "spike", a reference to the numerous spike protuberances of the fruit..."
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durian

http://www.food-allergydata.com/food-al ... an-allergy

"Milk thistle (Silybum marianum) is a member of the Asteraceae family and is native to the Mediterranean. The plant gets its name because its leaves have white spots that resembles drops of milk and also because the leaves contain a substance that has a milky sap texture and appearance. "
http://herbs.lovetoknow.com/Allergic_Re ... lk_Thistle

THIS MILKY WHITE PLANT EXTRACT MAY CONTAIN LATEX TOO...
https://treato.com/Milk+Thistle,Latex/?a=s

"Potential uses of the waste biomass are animal fodder or alternatively a starting point for biofuel -especially as the stems and leaves are rich in high energy latex compounds. These latex compounds may also have value as a feedstock in the manufacture of industrial materials ... like rubber and latex..."
http://www.usask.ca/agriculture/plantsc ... s/med/Milk Thistle - Value from waste.pdf

MORE....
http://www.cwma.org/Muskthistle.html

"Milk Thistle is POISON, Dandelion Root danger to Diabetics..."
http://www.iritis.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=3058

AND IT SMELLS FUNNY, and pretty strong. I can smell the nut extracts I think. I expect that to make the final product smell funny too.
Hopefully it goes away after the 24hrs it takes for the Slide effect to start (I am pretty sure thats because it is oxidizing, which is what makes it eventually yellow apparently, as it says in the datasheet).
..................................

PRELIMINARY TEST RESULTS... It totally smells like nut extract, first of all. Not exactly an offensive odor, unless you dont like it. Not sure if it will stay after the 24hrs it takes to create the Slide effect.
IT INHIBITS CURE IF TOO MUCH IS USED!...
I USED: 2.5ml of DragonSkin+5ml of Slacker (So 1:2 ratio, the max), and 4 drops of Slide STD (So 7.5ml to 4drops). TOO MUCH! DID NOT CURE! (It should be up to 1.5% of Part B only, so one drop might have been too much in this test).
ALSO, I tried 2.5ml of DragonSkin + 2.5ml of Slacker (So 1:1 ratio, total 5ml) with only 2 drops of Slide: Still VERY Sticky, and MIGHT have inhibited cure Partially (But it does not flow like the other one still does).
I poured these around 8am, and now its about 9hrs later, and the DragonSkin has a 4hr cure time, the Slide a 24hrs set time.

SO I HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL TOMORROW, to see the actual results.

ALSO, I tried to simply brush a tiny dab across the VERY sticky surface of some already cured EcoFlex 00-10 with 2x slacker, so we can see tomorrow how that works out. I expect it will work Partially, but only on the very surface, and I expect it to wear off right away, whereas with this other stuff when the surface wears off, the remaining surface should become less sticky in 24hrs (IF exposed to air it says).

[MakerOfStuff]

RE: SHELL SHOCK, and other paint on hard plastics...
Seems they are just not capable of making a smooth surface with brush on hard plastics. Those are only meant for the 'mother mold', or the frame which holds the flexible mold liner.
This makes the most sense because how else will you remove a solid item from a solid mold when it has complex details?
The hard part of the mold has to be put on top of a smoothed out mold liner, so they pull apart easy, and then you can stretch the liner off the finished product, and put the mold parts back together.

Seems the only really good way anyways.
I can buy the Smooth-Cast 300 Series plastics they said to make hard plastic molds the Plat. Cure Silicones wont bond to, and that Urethane and Silicone wont inhibit or bond to each other also...
So I can use those for the mold and mold liners, BUT...
None of them can handle even 200F it seems (their hard plastics), so I CANT use these for melting TPE...
Only the EcoFlex, Dragonskin, and other Silicone molds that handle 450F or more (Like Mold Max 60, up to 550F, to melt tin into), or low temp melt metals (Non toxic ones, not lead), like Pewter or Tin (Which is tin, antimony, bismuth, I think).

APPARENTLY, all these hard plastics degass (evaporating solvents make them harden in air), which creates the bubbles I got on the ABS and PolyStyrene tests (melted in Acetone, perhaps the least dangerous of solvents).
Btw, MEK and Acetone together I believe was a special solvent for PVC, but just acetone only softened it into a rubber like consistency when I tested the Clear #3 PVC, but seemed to melt the normal white Pipe PVC (That test is not done. ran out of acetone. Will buy more with the other solvents when I sold some items, after buying DragonSkinFXpro and more Slacker).

So none of them will work for making the actual mold surface, except pouring in the Smooth-Cast hard plastics into a mold, which you MIGHT be able to brush on if you can add the Thi-Vex thickener (I'll figure that out later, when I come to it).

[MakerOfStuff]

UPDATE ON TESTING HARD PLASTICS, ABS#7 and PolyStyrene#6, dissolved in Acetone...
As I said when put on Gelatin the Acetone raises the Surface of Gelatin and makes it not smooth (pot marks).

HOWEVER, I put it onto some Liquid Latex (Which I poured over the Gelatin as a masking), and onto some more Silicone (EcoFlex 00-10).
THESE TESTS WORKED MUCH BETTER!
The layers were perhaps 1/16" thick (Up to maybe 1/8", which has not fully dried yet, since early morning, around 9hrs ago).
These ones DID make Mostly smooth surfaces, without all the bubbles (Except there are bubbles inside the material, and some on top of it because of the nature of the evaporating Acetone).
SO, that means it SORT OF works, but still does not make a perfectly smooth surface because of the nature of evaporating acetone.
SO THE SOLUTION MAY BE, to simply coat it in Silicone anyways, just a thin layer (No additive, just let it coat, then set upside down and let extra drip out of mold into tray or garbage).
THEN, I can have a smooth surface, a hard plastic form (Which should be made it two or more parts probably, just like the 'Mother mold' I was shown at the local Reynolds Advanced Materials dist. for Smooth-On products).

SO THE FINAL ANSWER HERE, is that you CANT use these Brush on hard plastics to make a good, smooth inner surface for a mold. ONLY for the outer framework. You will always need the Rubber liner, in which you actually pour the material to make the final product.

However when I get tin and/or pewter, I plan to melt that in a steel can with a torch, then pour into a plaster of paris mold (Maybe best if Frozen or cooled so the metal cools faster, or that might make the surface less smooth. I'll find out later), FOR MELTING TPE.
That way I can make the inner parts of TPE, since it is tough and soft, but still make the liners with Silicone, which is not porous and immune to chemicals and I can make softer than TPE, though easier to tear, it still stretches at least 4-10x (Which is the max of any material, 1,000% elongation at break. Others are commonly 800%). So I am pretty sure tearing wont be a problem. So long as it stretches far enough to invert the liner (Which I am sure it will, especially the way I plan to make it thinner, not just one whole solid unit, which would make inverting the part you actually get dirty much harder, and more likely to tear).
And as I said, I plan to make the later models so both sides have different texture and hardness, so you can clean and flip it at will, to change the feel.
------------------------------------
REGARDING MELTING HARD PLASTICS: All the ones I have tested (#s 1-7, except PVC and ABS are not safe to melt, and ABS just burns, wont melt. PolyCarbonate is the one I did not test, also #7 btw), have all melted around 300F to 350F, and the lowest was #4, LDPE (tupperwear tops, QT cup lids, etc.), which started to melt around 260F and held out to around 400F without any obvious burning or hardening as I recall (I will type up and post my notes when able).
SO, when I have the Silicone and Plaster or Metal to make molds for melting TPE @300F (Under 310F where it start to burn), I can also use that to melt these hard plastics (The ones all over the streets, for free!), and make things from those.
THE ONES FROM SMOOTH ON HOWEVER, all seem to have a 'Heat Deflection temp' (The temp where it starts to deform) between 100F and 200F, so WAY lower than ALL of these ones you can pick up for free everywhere!

And as I said, they are easy to liquefy and paint onto things, so I dont plan to buy or use Shell Shock. Seems not as good as ABS dissolved in Acetone (Which as I said, is something naturally in our blood anyways, byproduct of sugar breakdown I think in our metabolism).

[r363b]

after reading your last couple posts ..
are your most recent tests with DragonSkinFXpro (2 A) + Slacker .. or are you still testing the harder DragonSkin (10 A) + Slacker

[MakerOfStuff]

Well now I am trying one with 5ml of DragonSkin (A-10 shore, I dont have the FXpro yet, which is A-2, but I got a cured sample to see its still about as hard as a soft shoe insert), and 5ml of Slacker, with ONE Drop of Slide (This time more careful to follow instructions, mix with part B first, then add A and Slacker and mix. Last time I added the drops last, which could be the problem)...

So I will let you know. Now its 20hrs since I did those last tests, and the one which I brushed it onto does not seem much less sticky, but the one that did seem to cure does seem less sticky, but its still too soon, and I mixed the drops in after putting together parts A&B which might have altered the results.
I notice now that I have all these, they color code the ones which go with part A (Yellow like Part A containers) and those which go with part B (Blue Containers for both things). I think they should have used a color that starts with the letter A though, for part A.

Anyway, I was thinking about how much better it might be if I make additional cylinders to place on these as adapters, to make them fit other things, just bigger or thicker or tighter, etc..... and how to make them more quiet, and such...

Using elastic straps with fabric sewn together and a piece of quality Velcro works good for making the front and other spots tight, and there are velcro wraps you can buy which are wider, like 6-8" wide,for your legs or waist.
Then there is the corset idea, which is quieter than the velcro to tighten or loosen during use, and leaves open the cut through one side of the foam pillow shape so you can reach in and change how tight it is at will, or just press, or squeeze the whole thing...

But the main new point I was thinking about is how using these harder DragonSkin materials as the outer casing, and making them separate and thicker, so they provide more structure, more like the casing to FleshLights (Something to push against, so it does not just crush under pressure, something to simulate the function of the pelvic bone in human/mammalian anatomy).

So they could be any hardness or thickness, and other than just smooth tubes, they can have variations on both sides, so they press differently, in different spots, and in three or four different ways times two (symmetrical left to right, not top to bottom, hence three orientations with different shapes, and then flip it around, and its different, maybe tighter to the front instead of back end).
And I can do the same with the main sheath, as well as the inner liner (Except obviously the inner liner can only be flipped around backwards if I make an orifice on the other end, which IS the plan soon).

I plan to also make one soon which has both holes, with separate canals, but held together with two thick cylinders (Rounded edges and maybe tear drop shaped inner holes on one end, or oval, and round on the other), and those two (Which make like the muscle layer) can be held together with a figure 8 shaped part (Like a double barrel form), which can be different on top and bottom (Tightness especially) and front to back, etc..
And then with that I can design it so it also houses the mouth part on the other end, the center of which is held securely between the other two (Each should always have its own end hole, which I think is best to always keep capped with a paper towel with some rubbing alcohol in it, which should be sprayed through before and after use to keep clean).
And then these various sets should all fit into the pillow, which can be held tight with a corset like design, and/or microfiber wrap with Velcro, or I will get to work on one with silicone foam from a hip mold.

I examined their Flex Foam 3,6, and 8 (The softest ones), and got samples. They range from a pillow soft (VIII), to a strong bike seat foam (maybe softer than that. This ones the III, Flex FoamIT! III). The VIII compares close to the Soma Foama 15 I have.
All of these foams tear easy. None of them really stretch, because of the nature of the geometry of the material between the bubbles, which is thin and in flat/straight sheets/lines which tear too easily.


REGARDING TEARING: I plan to make lots of ridges inside my designs (Perpendicular to direction of canal) so there is minimum flat area which will tear during use, and maximum stretch ability from the shape of it, as well as not a boring smooth texture, except of course the opening (which will have small bumps and ridges, not like flaps, deeper grooves, as will be inside).
And always as symmetrical as possible left to right (Not top to bottom, which should NOT be symmetrical, but more flat and hard wit simple ridges and some bumps up top, more soft and complex on bottom with probably deeper contours).

I will try to make natural looking patterns up which have some meaning, some name to give them, something in nature they recognize, or geometric patterns, fractals, something like that. Probably fractal patterns would be pleasant, but minimum straight lines and zero sharp edges or points or angles...main point to texture.
None of the surface details should be too sharp of a point, so bumps should be at least a few mm diameter, and curves on ridges should be as rounded as possible.

[MakerOfStuff]

I REALLY NEED MORE FEEDBACK ON SOME OF THESE QUESTIONS GUYS...
Is there anyone who has owned or does own a Meiki Real sleeve?
I need to get a comparison on the softness and stickiness of that compared to the FleshLight or another one I can actually look at in the Local Castle MegaStore.

Also I need to know if it is common for allergies to nuts, Durian Fruit, or Milk Thistle extracts, since those would make this Slide Surface Tension Diffuser unusable for such people I think.

I wonder what other sorts of things I could put into the mix before curing, that would alter its final properties?
I have considered buying some really high molecular weight silicone fluid (DiMethylPolySiloxane), and seeing if that works to soften it like Slacker, or maybe corn starch which takes away the sticky really good, but it washes off easy (And its a food product).

CURRENT PROGRESS:
Have to do a bit more alteration on the face, set on a ring and pour the gelatin to make the Front part of the mold, with a rod through the center (It would face up, lifted about 1/2 inch from the plate, on a ring about 1/2" in from center, for about 2" diameter)...
Then I can flip that around, attach the center textured part for the mold (Do some modifications, repairs to seam, etc.), then put another plastic bottle around and fill the rest, which will make a cylinder, which i will separate from the face piece (If it messes up, I can do it again. The trick is in not letting the fresh melted gelatin melt the chilled mold gelatin)...
And if all that worked, I can use this two parts of gelatin to make the silicone mold (After fixing the surface texture and everything, and powdering the face but making the inner canal shiny smooth with hot water run through at the end), first the face piece up to where the shaft connects (Should be an oval shape, symmetrical, easy, where the rod in center holds together both), then I can pour the shaft and the outer part. I can mask the silicone with alcohol and soap inside so they dont bond, and let them bond face to outer mold liner (the larger cylinder part of the mold), and then when that all cures (its a flat face cylinder outside at the end), then I can flip it again (Now face up) put in another larger cylinder (like 2liter bottle at this point, maybe a bit smaller) and fill the outer part with Plaster of Paris (Thick enough to be strong for a while, not break easy, even when cooked around 300F+ & it becomes soft chalk). I could use just the plastic bottle though for making it a stable mold for pouring in 2-part resins like Silicone, but to get in the TPE materials I have to use the oven at precisely 300F (You have to keep changing the temp setting and watch an actual thermostat in the oven right next to the project. TPE burns around 310-320F).

So maybe tomorrow I will have that gelatin part, which I can use to make the silicone part...which will cure over night...
Then I can use those to make the first liner (I can use thickener and put coatings on the gelatin prototype form to just make one simple smooth liner, or on the mold to get the detail I crafted and make it as thick as I want, with different layers of different hardness, etc.).
But I dont plan to use the Slide on the 1st ones unless this test I have setting works really good by the time I wake, which I doubt, since it needs 24hrs of air to set (So that will be the day after tomorrow when its done and I can really check).
And since they have allergens, I dont plan to make all my products with this additive.
I want to figure out something else to work for that purpose.

I could also make latex coatings, but I have to figure out how they make condoms not stick to itself like natural latex does (I just paint it in cornstarch, but I think that will wash off and then it will bond to itself again). Latex is the toughest of these materials when in thin sheets (And I believe these TPE materials are SEBS, Styrene, Ethylene, Butadiene, Styrene block co polymers. Look up that and what ABS to learn more. Styrene and ABS dissolve in Acetone.).

[r363b]

I do not think you should use the Slide additive .. people with food allergies have had life threatening reactions and you just do not need that responsibility / liability. We have some bars here that have baskets of shell peanuts on all the tables, this bar has a HUGE sign on the door stating this so nut allergic people will not sue them or enter the bar.

Corn starch is used as a normal part of maintenance after cleaning .. I do not think stickiness is a problem with TDF people because it is common with all their tpe and silicone dolls and inserts.

I am guessing no one owns the Meiki Real sleeve and stating any facts about softness or stickiness will not mean anything to your customers because no one has owned this sleeve .. curious why do you need information on this sleeve.

The Fleshlight is the best because it has been owned my many people and has relevance to us as a reference about softness or sticky conditions.

[MakerOfStuff]

I do not think you should use the Slide additive .. people with food allergies have had life threatening reactions and you just do not need that responsibility / liability. We have some bars here that have baskets of shell peanuts on all the tables, this bar has a HUGE sign on the door stating this so nut allergic people will not sue them or enter the bar.

Corn starch is used as a normal part of maintenance after cleaning .. I do not think stickiness is a problem with TDF people because it is common with all their tpe and silicone dolls and inserts.

I am guessing no one owns the Meiki Real sleeve and stating any facts about softness or stickiness will not mean anything to your customers because no one has owned this sleeve .. curious why do you need information on this sleeve.

The Fleshlight is the best because it has been owned my many people and has relevance to us as a reference about softness or sticky conditions.

Thank you.

The Meiki real with the Plush is the closest thing to what I am working on, and I think it is the best design (For affordability, not counting the higher quality dolls like on this forum, which most cant afford. Im going for DIY, reselling materials, tools, finished products too).
And it is the only one I keep seeing ads for on this site, which I cant physically check myself because it is not at the local Mega Store (Castle).

Fortunately, the stickiness of the DragonSkin&Slacker @1:1 ratio is only a little more than FleshLight, and its a little softer, so they are probably precisely equal in that regard if you match them (Maybe 0.9x slacker, +/- around .05x maybe, relative to DragonSkin both parts added together).

And that is what I plan to use for the outer coating anyways, around 4:3 (.75x Slacker) to 1:1, then more like 1.5x slacker for the next softer layer, and then a tougher layer, either the same 1:1 if its a thin liner, or maybe tougher (like .5x slacker). If its the outer part of the outer cylinder I plan to make that part the toughest, no slacker. So it does not just crush (longitudinally, along its length) when pushed into, but so it still flex's (I can put grooves along the outer part and make it removable or not, so it will stretch easier. Or Not).

The plan is to make many different ones, record them, post that, and then probably just auction the first models. They might actually become collectibles if/when my company buys all the competition!

[MakerOfStuff]

Re: Meiki Real... It would be great if anyone else here can visit a local store or something and write down how soft each of the main products are and how sticky, relative to each other (Which one is more or less than another, and then order them by each proper in two lists).
Then Post that data here, so we can get comparisons to the competition.

So far from what I found...
... the softest ones match the sticky hand toys from walmart and gumball machines, which is the softest, and strongest (For the softness. Not as strong as harder silicone: DragonSkin. Not even close!), so far.
The FleshLight is a little harder than those, and a tiny harder than DragonSkin&Slacker @1:1, and a bit less sticky than that DragonSkin mixture.
Most of the others on display were softer than Fleshlight, and less sticky than this DragonSkin mixture.
The Fleshlight is certainly harder to tear than this DragonSkin mixture, but I doubt you will tear a thick enough layer of it without really trying to, esp. since it stretches around 4-10x length before tearing.
And as said, not porous, immune to all common chemicals, usable up to 400-450F, etc..

So that does mean you will have to be more careful not to over stretch these softer ones, but thats why I plan to be careful on how I design the tougher layers, to not restrict its function in an undesirable way, but to prevent the soft stuff from tearing mainly, and provide pressure points and such, in a variety of patterns/designs.
Looks likely I might finally have a first model done tonight, but who knows what the day holds.

[r363b]

For that one in the picture here I would probably need to have one to duplicate though...

But these do look VERY Realistic I must say...
https://secure.realdoll.com/female-realdoll2-insert/

This is a quote from the above link for their silicone sleeve .. note the stretch is only 1X.

"....options above for any RD2 or WRD dolls. The inserts are all the same inside (ribbed and nubby).Just the labia is different between the different insert styles. The inside dimension is 7" deep x 2" in diameter, however stretches to about 12" deep and 4" in diameter."

How soft I do not know, but it has to be much harder than your formula.

[r363b]

So far from what I found...
...
The FleshLight is tiny bit harder than DragonSkin&Slacker @1:1, and a bit less sticky than that DragonSkin mixture.

The Fleshlight is certainly harder to tear than this DragonSkin mixture, but I doubt you will tear a thick enough layer of it without really trying to, esp. since it stretches around 4-10x length before tearing.

So that does mean you will have to be more careful not to over stretch these softer ones, but thats why I plan to be careful on how I design the tougher layers, to not restrict its function in an undesirable way, but to prevent the soft stuff from tearing mainly, and provide pressure points and such, in a variety of patterns/designs.

Sounds like this is the silicone sleeve formula that equals the Fleshlight .. I know you are suggesting an even softer formula for the inter sleeve canal and filler, but may not be needed. The other formula would be one a little harder formula (for less sticky and more durable with less stretch and and more tear resistant) and would be for the outer thin layer on the sleeve that is held or touches your "plush" accessory.

...so
*use for the outer coating layer DragonSkinFXpro (2 A) + Slacker (.5 x Slacker ) stipple thin silicone layer on mold parts and assemble mold, this should provide enough strength to limit tearing and be less tacky, and thin enough to not restrict its function in an undesirable way.
*inter soft fill formula DragonSkinFXpro (2 A) + 1.5 x Slacker or 1 x Slacker) add/ assemble the canal texture rod mold part (do not coat any silicone layer on this canal rod) now pour this soft formula in mold.

This could be the base line prototype to compare all other designs and formulas to.. reason this is the most Fleshlight like silicone equivalent to the TPE Fleshlight.
Tacky condition is controlled by corn starch and water based lube for the Fleshlight and it is not a negative for your silicone Fleshlight clone either.