Sex toy design and materials

[MakerOfStuff]

NEW VIDEOS COMPARING SOFTNESS AND TEAR ABILITY...
Conclusion: The EcoFlex with Slacker holds most of its ability to stretch without tearing, all the way to the max 1:2 ratio, much better (Stretching further, a bit more tension/force) than the EcoFlex Gel, which tears way too easily with very little force and after only a brief time holding it stretched.

The DragonSkin Was pretty Strong at 1:1, but the EcoFlex and DragonSkin seen pretty close as far as how easy to tear and stretch, when they are at the same softness. Its just that the Dragonskin gets much softer than it normally is than Ecoflex when the same ratio of slacker is added. Its not much different at 1:1, but at 1.25x both of these are pretty darn soft, and quite sticky (Until you powder them with corn starch), but still able to stretch quite far without tearing.
Those are the ones I plan to use for the inside surface (DragonSkin 1:1, EcoFlex 1.25xSlacker) and the softer ones for the inside layer and/or skip to the Harder one for the outer layer (Where you hold it).
I can tilt the mold different so the first, softer material blends in at the bottom of the face of it more, and let it cure some, then have the upper face a bit harder material, to be more like human anatomy.
...
This will actually take a bit to get them up here...
(Recorded now, got to post tomorrow. Still did not get the gelatin done enough to pour silicone into it yet, but close now)...
(Now I am uploading to google drive, about a dozen vids to share with all the test materials, designs so far, etc.)...

[MakerOfStuff]

SOME OF THE VIDEOS (Since Its not letting me edit the last post to put them there)....

VID_20161126_020149...Quick review of samples and Prototypes so far.3gp
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3R8P ... VZCaHVlcGs

VID_20161201_043005...Progress on first prototype, gelatin mold.3gp
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3R8P ... XM1dS1ZcDg

VID_20161130_194707...Softness Comparison of all my materials so far (About 20),PART 1of2...3gp
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3R8P ... 29QSHU3SG8

VID_20161130_200333...Softness Comparison of all my materials so far (About 20),PART 2of2...3gp
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3R8P ... HpiMXViRHM

VID_20161201_051742...PART 1of4...Hardness and Stretch Tests, With Ruler. Slacker,EcoflexGel.3gp
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3R8P ... 2RsanQwUmM

VID_20161201_052015...PART 2of4, Hardness and Stretch Tests, With Ruler. DragonSkin, Slacker,Ecoflex, Thi-Vex.3gp
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3R8P ... 1QyU0dvQjQ

VID_20161201_052433...PART 3of4, Hardness and Stretch Tests, With Ruler. DragonSkin, Slacker,Ecoflex, Thi-Vex.3gp
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3R8P ... G5GT3lGTHM

VID_20161201_053224...PART 4of4, Hardness and Stretch Tests, With Ruler. DragonSkin, Slacker,Ecoflex, Thi-Vex.3gp
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3R8P ... WU2U2Vkb2s

VID_20161120_055849...Stickiness and Stretch Tests, DragonSkin,Slacker,Thi-Vex.3gp
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3R8P ... jhyS1REdzA

VID_20161120_054113...Stickiness tests.3gp
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3R8P ... 3QxbndJeTQ

VID_20161130_004701...Slide Surface Tension Diffuser 1st Tests.3gp
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3R8P ... VRVY2g0VU0

VID_20161130_004148...ABS and PolyStyrene Tests (Dissolved in Acetone).3gp
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3R8P ... kZGSWhZdEE

VID_20161130_205322...ABS Plastic Test 2 (Dissolved in Acetone). Better Results.3gp
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3R8P ... HRlNGprVkU

...AND MORE TO COME LATER.
LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK ABOUT THESE SO FAR, AND HOW THESE MATERIALS COMPARE TO WHAT YOU ALL HAVE (Pros and Cons pls).


I plan to pour the melted gelatin into the gelatin mold I have (Chill and powder the mold before and after pour in fridge or freezer but dont let water crystallize/ice up), to make the Prototype, then pour on a thin layer of dragonskin silicone to mask it, then make a gelatin outer part of that (Which includes the inner shaft too, like the inverse of a doughnut shape), two parts so it can be taken apart, with pegs/rods through to line them up just right...
Then I will have an inner and outer part of gelatin...
Then I can take them apart, assemble the liner and outer part, and fill with Plaster.
Then I will have the solid form of the prototype to save for later.
Then I can brush on a thicker layer of dragon skin Onto the Gelatin prototype for a liner for the actual mold, which would then be surrounded by Hard plastic (ABS or PolyStyrene Dissolved in Acetone), or Plaster of paris (Which is what I plan, because that one allows me to melt TPE into the Plaster and Silicone mold assembly)...OR...

Since I am just pouring in room temp silicone, and I need multiple molds, I can just make multiple outer molds from Gelatin for now, and then Pour in the layers/coatings of Silicone (For the liners) and/or fill them (for the solid parts, to be inside the silicone coating, either bonded as one or masked so they are separate parts, which is the plan)...
Instead of using more of the silicone as liners to pour silicone into, when if these bond they bond permanently! So Its cheaper and safer to use Gelatin as the mold material for pouring silicone, and then silicone liners with Plaster of paris (Until I get tin or pewter to melt into plaster) to make molds for melting the TPE into.

And I plan to not use TPE for the inner surface or face, only the filler part (Since its stronger at the same softness as silicone rubber. And its cheaper, and can be remelted, recycled, unlike silicone).

So this way I should only need the small amount of silicone to coat the gelatin prototype, and then more gelatin and glycerine (which is cheaper and recyclable) to make several molds...
Then the rest of my silicone goes to making liners first, and foam fill (the simple cylinder part you hold, most of the volume), and maybe a couple solid silicone ones (But that uses a lot of silicone, 1/2 of one $30 trial kit or more).

And this first one is designed to fit around the fleshlight, so I can make the liner which fits the main body /outer cylinder so that they match the FleshLight (Roughly, modified, not exactly. copy/patent rights), by filling the outer part of the mold with multiple layers of thickened Silicone, OR, I can just make one thinner layer like a Silicone Condom made just to fit the Fleshlight itself (Which I will obviously have to purchase them in order to duplicate perfectly. For now that must wait).
I might sell these liners for as little as $20 if I can keep the weight down enough, and sell enough, fast enough, to buy food and more materials as I go.

I also will try to make these to dimensions which fit into the dolls on this forum, the Meiki Plush (Pillow holder), and whatever else I can manage as we go.

[MakerOfStuff]

When I do sell enough to buy some competing products, to duplicate them and make liners and clones out of better materials...
Then I will resell the products (Since I dont plan to use them, obviously, now that I can make better versions), and so I would resell them first here, probably at the price I bought them at, except I can include one or more Silicone Liners with them...
That way they are not porous, or damaged by any common lube or cleaners, and easier to clean, and you can change the color and texture at will too.

I think that will be a good idea actually, now that I posted that... to resell competitors products, along with the liners for them. With those advantages of the TPE that all the leading Mens Sleeves are made of, this should sell REALLY well.

SO, WHICH ONE(s) SHOULD I DUPLICATE FIRST?!
(I plan to do the Pink Lady FleshLight first, and the Meiki real, then a version of the Meiki Plush Hip, pillow thing, as well as one or more inserts you guys show(ed) me).

Quote the above sentence, and post images, measurements, etc., so I can make plans. Thx.


....I keep estimating that I will have the first ones done in a day or two, but life keeps happening, and taking me from working on it, and its taking longer than I planned anyways, but I have the face part almost just the way I like it (Was not symmetrical enough, and some details were unnatural looking), so I plan to cast it with a straight canal and all smooth inside first, hopefully tonight, into a Gelatin model of what I want, then make the Silicone coating on that, with which to make the gelatin outer portion (Two part), and then using that to make the Plaster version of the Prototype (For saving it at that point), then I can work on changing the Gelatin portions to add the textures inside, which might take a day I think, and then I should finally be able to coat that in some DragonSkin+Slacker@1:1, then coat that in EcoFlex (Since its softer but stronger without slacker added), and that can be the first liner.
Then I can mask that (Soap and iso alcohol), and fill with Soma Foama 15 (Silicone Foam. Pillow Soft), or TPE (Melted in oven at 300F), or one of the other Silicones with Slacker (More than 1/2slacker, >1:1), and have the first unit done then.
Then I can make multiples of the Gelatin outer mold, so I can make one, let it cure, make another...etc... and keep going, making several, while the others cure.
So now I am hoping to have these materials used up within the week, and have video of the first model here this weekend.
(But I apparently will have to spend some more time panhandling again, since this has been taking longer than I hoped, because of all the distractions in my life lately).

[MakerOfStuff]

UPDATE ON TESTING HARD PLASTICS, ABS#7 and PolyStyrene#6, dissolved in Acetone....
...

IT DOES NOT WORK ON PLASTER! It binds to the plaster, and pulls off some of it as it dries, ruining the plaster and the plastic.
Though this was plaster I had already baked, so it was softer (chalky), but I think it will do the same on fresh plaster.
I might try it anyways though.

So that means I would have to put a masking agent on the Plaster of Paris, like the Silicone or Liquid Latex (Which I posted recently, that it gets a close to smooth surface with few and tiny bubbles on it, against those smooth materials, IF you do thin enough layers at first).

So I really only plan to use this plastic to make things, not molds, but maybe 'mother molds' (The strong part that holds the Silicone Liner), however since ABS plastic (And all the other #'d recyclables except that #1 for TV dinner trays and maybe polycarbonate #7 which I did not test) is not able to be used to melt the TPE in (At 300F), I plan to just stick with the Plaster of Paris for now, until I get Xylene (IF it dissolves that PETE #1 plastic) and/or Tin (Or Pewter, which I can melt with a torch and steel can and pour into plaster to make molds to melt TPE in, in the oven).

[r363b]

after watching your videos, I realized you are way past me on the different plastics and how you recyle, melt with Acetone and then reuse ... so cannot make any comments for lack of knowledge on my part.

The silcone+slacker tests look very good for strength and softness (except for the GEL and foam materials) .. but until the molded sleeve is in it's final form and tested in actual use will you know the true test of success .. regarding "form = fit = function".

Do you intend to make TPE + Silicone hybrid sleeves ? .. thought you where trying to make all silicone sleeve clones that are as soft as TPE.

[MakerOfStuff]

Do you intend to make TPE + Silicone hybrid sleeves ? .. thought you where trying to make all silicone sleeve clones that are as soft as TPE.

I plan to use the TPE inside the Liner, as well as foam, or just the solid EcoFlex Gel, or one of the other Silicones with slacker, as the fill, the majority of the weight, but NOT for the inner or front surface parts (Because its porous and not safe with many chemicals).
Those have to be Silicone because of its better properties.

The TPE is cheaper. And I just got a response from PolyOne...
They have a shore 14A and 3A, sold in pellets, for under $4/lb, min order of about $160. But they dont seem to sell plasticizing agents to soften it more, and these are the hardness of Shoe Inserts (DragonSkin is 10A to 2A for the FX Pro. See my vids for sample tests).

And some plasticizing agents are not safe for these purposes. I have not learned those yet.

I was told there IS platinum in these Silicones btw, which is why its so costly ($15/lb, in these trial kits. Less in bulk), and the Tin Cure ones do have tin, as well as other toxins like Cyanide (Nitrogen and Carbon with Triple Bond. Tears apart organic molecules).
So we wont be using those, even though they are better and curing on stuff with sulfur (I want to know if I can cast it on this TPE though, since the Platinum Cure WONT. Not on ANY of the elastic/rubber materials I tested except their own Plat. Cure silicones).

Oh, since the foam tears, does not stretch well, I have plans to make sections, divide length wise, so the silicone there stretches (With gaps between the strips of foam), and the foam is only compressed, not stretched much. Otherwise it should be just all solid silicone which stretches at least 4-10x its length before tearing. Foam wont even go 2x.


...........................
The first one I think I will make several of will be DragonSkin+Slacker@1:1 or slightly more or less slacker (Likely just more, softer than fleshlight by a little, 4x stretch at least, viscoelastic with slacker added), perhaps about 1/8" to 3/16" thick, and then EcoFlex Shore 00-10 outer layer, maybe around 1/16" thick (8-10x stretch, 22pli).
That might weigh about 1/4 to 1/2lb, and I might sell for $20 or as low as $10 (depends how much material it will actually take).
Then I might just use the gel to fill. I'll check again, but I think adding Slacker actually made the EcoFlex Gel MORE resistant to tearing, instead of cutting it in about half like with the DragonSkin and EcoFlex (I have not measured this yet to be accurate, yet).
The Gel I might coat with DragonSkin (Shore A-10, 102pli, 8-10x stretch), which will make it tighter on the softer inner liner, which you COULD invert if you want the Shore 00-10 side, but the other one is well below the 000-35 of the EcoFlex Gel normally (With DragonSkin and at least 1:1 Slacker).

[r363b]

are you melting the TPE in a kitchen oven? .. I thought TPE puts off toxic fumes and unpleasant odor during the melting process under heat.

[MakerOfStuff]

I've already done that (Melting All these Plastics in the oven, from TPE from the FleshLight, to these ones from Walmart, and Gum ball machines, to all the #'d plastics 1-7 except PVC and ABS which ARE toxic, and ABS wont melt before it degrades).
You have to keep them to a VERY precise temp, 300 +/- only a few degrees, since they burn and smoke and get stickier and gooey at about 320F, but only start to melt around 290F.

I was told melting Pewter in the oven would make it smell like Antimony and Bismuth (Dont know what those smell/taste like), and food cooked in it would too, but those (Pewter has those and tin) dont melt under 500F (Max oven temp). Only lead (Which I wont use since its toxic) and tin (Which is $20/lb and 1cup=just under 4lbs, or about $75/Cup), will melt below 500F (I forget leads temp, but dont care. Not using it).

So far its gone fine. I checked frequently, watched intently (With an oven temp gauge inside), and you have to manually keep changing the temp to keep it in the range (Ovens are not that precise on temp control), for TPE.

It did not make but the smallest smells, nothing that seemed to stay in the oven or stink up the place (Except I think once I burned one a bit, the Fleshlight material. Which was ok after corn starch in one test, and melted to crumbs in acetone then remelted again and it was back to normal, minus some dye/pink pigment).

So no. It does not make much smell, and I dont think its toxic, UNLESS you over cook (Which is hard to avoid. You MUST sit and watch and control it. You CANNOT just let the oven do it).

[MakerOfStuff]

Well no surprise, life happened, and I almost lost my place to live today, so now I have to clean and move things and a bunch of crap, delaying this project. But I AM SOOOOOO CLOSE right now, to having some Liners ready, and as soon as I make the first, liner, I can mask it (Soap and alcohol probably) and fill to make the solid 2nd part.

And as soon as I sell enough, I will buy a new fleshlight and make a liner that fits it exactly...which ever model you guys say I should do first.

SO WHICH SLEEVE/INSERT DO YOU GUYS OWN THE MOST OF? WHICH IS THE MOST COMMON?
Which sleeve should I make liners for FIRST?

(PROGRESS SO FAR: If you watched the vid and saw the clay forms I made, I poured gelatin around those to make gelatin duplicates, which I can more easily alter, and are more stable (Rubbery, so I have to intend to, to alter them, unlike clay, which is hard to keep once you get it, while still working on other parts).
With Gelatin I use heat to melt and water to smooth and I can use melted gelatin to add to the material too.
So next, when I can, I plan to smooth off surface of the face I made using an oil lantern flame -cause it wont blacken/carbonize-, which I think is good enough now, and then Cast the first actual prototype, but probably without inner texture at first, as this is for making the Plaster duplicate, for saving the work so far, before then making gelatin molds from that first gelatin prototype and the thin silicone or liquid latex coating on it which I will pour the Plaster one into, then adding texture to the shaft of the gelatin molds, and THEN FINALLY pouring the Silicone to make the liners. Probably a day or three of work, WHEN I can finish this other crap. ASAP!).

[samara78]

Do not mix tpe with any 2 part silicone! You will waste a whole experiment doing so.for the mold carve out a good refined/ smooth oven bake clay. Carve out both sides in their own base/frame if you will.

[r363b]

how sex toys are made .. factory videos

Fleshlight factory https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ud_oFYsjvU8

Real29 factory TPE toys https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ft4TRVRhjXk

Real29 factory Silicone toys https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMJSw-gHiAU

more links https://www.youtube.com/results?search_ ... oy+factory

[MakerOfStuff]

Do not mix tpe with any 2 part silicone! You will waste a whole experiment doing so.for the mold carve out a good refined/ smooth oven bake clay. Carve out both sides in their own base/frame if you will.

Now I think we covered this before: I have kept various samples of Silicone (DragonSkin, EcoFlex 00-10 and Gel, Soma Foama 15, and other samples from the store), in the same bag as TPE samples (FleshLight material, 3 different sticky hand/eye ball toys from Walmart and Gum ball machines), and the ONLY effect is the bleeding over of dyes.
None of the hardening or melting, as I have been told about with other products, has happened with these materials.

I also DID cook these TPE Sticky hands (Bought a few pounds of them) on top of an EcoFlex 00-10 textured pad I made (Poured onto candies, btw, for their smooth round shape), in the oven, as well as various other tests, and here is the result (Posted before)...
The TPE left a lot of oil behind, did not really become thin enough to flow into the tiny cavities, but both materials still retained all their properties after cooling. Note you need precisely 300F for this, and TPE burns around 310-320F+.


So please to elaborate, because it just does not seem correct based on my experiments so far.
Those examples must be inferior Silicone and/or TPE to these ones.

[MakerOfStuff]

how sex toys are made .. factory videos

Fleshlight factory https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ud_oFYsjvU8

Real29 factory TPE toys https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ft4TRVRhjXk

Real29 factory Silicone toys https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMJSw-gHiAU

more links https://www.youtube.com/results?search_ ... oy+factory

THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THESE! These may be very helpful to me.


Unfortunately I have spent the last two days having to pack all of a sudden and might be homeless suddenly, not sure yet, but it has kept me from working on these for two days, and now everything is packed up and ready to move...
So pray for me I guess. I am SO close to having some products to make. I think I have the face portions good enough to where I can just smooth the surface and then pour the rest of the cylinder, then modify the inner canal/shaft to have textures, and then I will be making the first units to sell. Maybe a couple days, WHEN I get time and access to a working kitchen again.

I hope to have my own place again within the month, and be in production of many designs by then, but only God knows what the future actually holds. Living with friends for several years (While learning law, winning cases, changing local police), has left me in this position, but it WAS worth it, because NOW I know how to 'Govern Public Servants' Like a Sovereign!
That delayed these plans for the last 6 years, but these last few months I have been back at it, and now only days from starting to sell the first prototypes. God willing!

....I watched them. They are helpful, though not as much as I had hoped. They show the molds, which is the most important part, but I have not the time to listen to them just now. I'm on the verge of possibly being homeless right now, and possibly losing all the progress so far (All the materials, prototypes, etc.). So I'm praying for a friend to help me tomorrow, and hopefully I will still be able to finish and start selling this week...or God only knows how long it will be before I can work on this again! Damn this is hard.
And ALL of this is because in dec. of 2011 I lost everything because of having one headlight and LOOKING high, Despite passing tests and driving safe and all (Which I made the cop actually say, and I think I recorded it). All these years of legal work have delayed this project, but NOW when I start a business, I will be able to 'Govern' our public servants, instead of being subject to 'deprivation of rights under color of law', to liberty and privacy, and PROTECTION AGAINST unreasonable search and seizure (Even demanding ID when no evidence you threatened or harmed another, or are engaged in commercial activity subject to legit regulation).

Now I could have prevented that, and as of a few months ago I finished that research, and am starting this to earn money, to do MANY other things. This is the fastest way for me to earn the most.... IF I can just get another week or two, I should be able to get production going.

Then I should never have to worry about any of this again (Poverty or my public servants ruining my life again)!
And the biggest plan is to SHOW you ALL how to do the same!
To GIVE away info on how to make anything, cure any disease (using natural diet), produce energy without consuming costly fuel (Lots of ways), and especially 'Govern Public Servants', Like a Sovereign! (Like a Boss!).

[r363b]

Do not mix tpe with any 2 part silicone! You will waste a whole experiment doing so.for the mold carve out a good refined/ smooth oven bake clay. Carve out both sides in their own base/frame if you will.

Makerofstuff, best of luck on the move and I hope your relocation to go smoothly and soon ..

An issue may be long term how the two materials will work together.. can TPE and silicone bond to each other, will the TPE start to move out the silicone casing, leak oil, and other factors not known.

I think your best market is the price point against other companies.. with a better all silicone sleeve for "form + fit = function"

And TDF members have spent $1000s of dollars on their dolls and would not want to take a chance mixing TPE with silicone contact.

To me and I think others on this forum .. your superior Silicone sleeve project is most interesting and not a TPE and silicone hybrid. Not to say others outside this forum may want your hybrid sleeve and this would be the reason to continue this hybrid concept.

.. otherwise If someone would want to have a TPE sleeve which has only one downside to me .. mildew / mold, It would be the Fleshlight. (But if you clean and dry properly a Fleshlight it will last years and costs $33 each when you purchase the buy 2 get 1 free for $99.) https://us.fleshlight.com/collections/buy-2-get-1-free

Hope this helps explain the TPE vs Silicone sleeves position and good work and progress so far!

[MakerOfStuff]

An issue may be long term how the two materials will work together.. can TPE and silicone bond to each other, will the TPE start to move out the silicone casing, leak oil, and other factors not known.

I think your best market is the price point against other companies.. with a better all silicone sleeve for "form + fit = function"

And TDF members have spent $1000s of dollars on their dolls and would not want to take a chance mixing TPE with silicone contact.

To me and I think others on this forum .. your superior Silicone sleeve project is most interesting and not a TPE and silicone hybrid. Not to say others outside this forum may want your hybrid sleeve and this would be the reason to continue this hybrid concept.

.. otherwise If someone would want to have a TPE sleeve which has only one downside to me .. mildew / mold, It would be the Fleshlight. (But if you clean and dry properly a Fleshlight it will last years and costs $33 each when you purchase the buy 2 get 1 free for $99.) https://us.fleshlight.com/collections/buy-2-get-1-free
...

Thanks for that.
So, THE COST...
... 1.6lbs I think is the weight of the TPE Fleshlight, but this silicone is about $11-13 per pound (More when softened to the max with more expensive Slacker up to 2/3rds the weight. Prices are when buying in bulk. I paid about 50% more for trial kits, 2-3lbs)... Is about $18-19 to duplicate that. I plan to make these first ones thicker and around 9" total length, using a fill of Foam, Gel Silicone, and TPE, because I have at least a pound or two of each right now.
I plan to make them closer to 1lb each though, with the liners being more like 3-6oz each (1/8" to 1/4" or so at first, with more variations in the details of the face section obviously), which will then cost around $2 to around $4 for just the material for those liners....and so I plan to sell those for $20, with special deals here for you guys (No one else knows about this thread, btw, but you guys! I've kept this to myself mostly). Now 1lb of this Silicone is about the same size as a 16oz container of beverage. I cant measure now (explained below), but I think about 3" diameter by maybe 8" height (Straight sides).
I plan to make it a 3" face (And a half size one too), and around 9" total length (3/4foot). So that costs me $16-19 in trial kits, $11-12 in larger amounts, per pound (Counting the price of Silicone combined with Slacker at max amount as the higher number).

So $33 is hard to compete with, but for now its worth it, for me to sell some at $30, which are about 3" face, 2" diameter otherwise, and about 1" thick face section, with another 8" long behind that, and I plan to make it with an inset ring behind the face like the FleshLight, for the same function, except a straight outer cylinder behind that (later on with texture on it to change inner feel and total function). I think about the physics and chemistry of things, the causality, so I will always try to maximize function using the best products and methods I can find (Thats why I won in courts btw, and succeeded at changing local cops behavior. They dont arrest us for panhandling anymore! Or pull me over for no bike light at night).

Next the chemistry...