Building a doll from scratch

[MIKE238]

Hi MF.

Hey this really sounds like something I should try. Thanks a bunch for the recommendation and I'm going to purchase some. Anything that can help to get a good smooth finish I'm all for it.

Thanks again!

[rubherkitty]

The sculpt is a lot like epoxy putty but more workable like clay and it's non-toxic.

Would Sculpt make a good surface coat for a entire mannequin or 3D printed body?
In my case I would be using a mannequin, but am looking at modeling more detail onto it.

For my project, Bondo may be more economical for large build up areas, but it has it's draw backs.
While it sets up very quick, the application is a slop job and requires a lot of filing and sanding.

Having a material that you could apply and have time to work by tools and hand to get it 95% to finished surface before it sets up would be great. When the time comes, I will probably pick up some to try out. May try using a Bondo base for built up areas and see if the Sculpt would work as a finish coat over the Bondo.

[MannequinFan]

Having a material that you could apply and have time to work by tools and hand to get it 95% to finished surface before it sets up would be great. When the time comes, I will probably pick up some to try out. May try using a Bondo base for built up areas and see if the Sculpt would work as a finish coat over the Bondo.

Hey RK,

Yes, that's one of the benefits of Sculpt - it allows plenty of time for shaping and smoothing so you can get things pretty much done with one application. You can smooth it with a wet tool or fingers.
It also has different stages of hardness - if you wait until it sets some it can be tooled or even carved.
Here's the working time guide from the website...

1/2 hour: Sticky & most adhesive
1 to 2 hours: Easy to work with
2 to 3 hours: Setting up, form-able detail
24 hours: Hard, cured & waterproof

The Paste product is better for a thin top coat application. It's more like the consistency of bondo.

[rubherkitty]

Thanks for the info. Sounds like I need both to experiment with!!

[MIKE238]

Thanks again, MF! I already ordered the Apoxie paste which I think will do the ticket. I'll also need some of the Apoxie sculpt but that will be later on. The genital area of the doll will need to be sculpted on it once the doll is completed and that's where the sculpt will come in. But, needless to say, that's a long way off. Still, I'm looking forward to working with the paste. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Cheers!

[mannequin man]

Mike238, hi. how are you ? Nice project & I wish you all the best ! I myself have attempted at making my own Love Doll from scratch. "Project Victoria" / "Project Big Ass Vixxxen" is my work. I have been working on her almost 3yrs now & still no Demo model made yet, mainly because of just lack of finances, weather, etc. ( I live in Indiana )..blah ! Anyway, Love the 3D sculpting ! I am a clay Sculptor myself, my choice of medium is a oil/wax base clay called "MonsterClay". I Love using it since it can be melted to liquid, brushed on, puttied on, molded on, etc. then when its cooled, chilled feels something like plastic ? anyway, if I may suggest, when I made my 1st production Mold of Victoria's Full body, I used a product called ( IndustrialPolymers.com ) "TrueCast 90", a Urethane Rubber as the detail skin, about 3/8" thick ? about the rigidity of a car tire. then a Fiberglass Mother mold of about a 1/8"-3/16" thick shell, then with Fiberglass criss-cross supports, also in Fiberglass. ( it took some time to make the mold, but very pleased with the results ). now, I cast full body props, etc. for Halloween. since this was my 1st run at making a mold, it really isnt worthy to be cast as a "Love Doll".....just yet. the next sculpt & Mold will be much better. I am going to keep up with you because this inspires me, not to give up on mine. I wish you the Very Best Mike238.

below, a pic of my "Project Victoria"

[rubherkitty]

Is it OK to cast Plat silicone in TrueCast 90? I looked at the IndustrialPolymers.com site, but didn't see any info regarding Plat sil.

I know Brick in the Yard only carries one type of urethane safe for casting Plat Sil. And I think you are limited to a specific shore of Plas sil they sell as well.

Smooth-On offers no urethane safe for Plat Sil that I'm aware of.

[r363b]

Mike238, hi. how are you ? Nice project & I wish you all the best ! I myself have attempted at making my own Love Doll from scratch. "Project Victoria" / "Project Big Ass Vixxxen" is my work. I have been working on her almost 3yrs now & still no Demo model made yet, mainly because of just lack of finances, weather, etc. ( I live in Indiana )..blah ! Anyway, Love the 3D sculpting ! I am a clay Sculptor myself, my choice of medium is a oil/wax base clay called "MonsterClay". I Love using it since it can be melted to liquid, brushed on, puttied on, molded on, etc. then when its cooled, chilled feels something like plastic ? anyway, if I may suggest, when I made my 1st production Mold of Victoria's Full body, I used a product called ( IndustrialPolymers.com ) "TrueCast 90", a Urethane Rubber as the detail skin, about 3/8" thick ? about the rigidity of a car tire. then a Fiberglass Mother mold of about a 1/8"-3/16" thick shell, then with Fiberglass criss-cross supports, also in Fiberglass. ( it took some time to make the mold, but very pleased with the results ). now, I cast full body props, etc. for Halloween. since this was my 1st run at making a mold, it really isnt worthy to be cast as a "Love Doll".....just yet. the next sculpt & Mold will be much better. I am going to keep up with you because this inspires me, not to give up on mine. I wish you the Very Best Mike238.

below, a pic of my "Project Victoria"

WOW! .. who would not love a Victoria?
answer: Everyone loves Victoria and Kim Kardashina is jealous of Vicki's body!

[MIKE238]

Hi mannequin man. Very nice work! You're way, way ahead of me as I have a long ways to go yet but it's a lot of fun to do, isn't it? I wish you the best success with your project and I look forward to seeing the final result.

I'm very interested in what you used to build your mold. I had originally considered building a full fiberglass mold but it would have meant I would have to break apart the sculpture to remove it from the finished mold. Your approach looks like a much better approach and I would love to learn more about how you did it. Do you have a pic or two of the mold I can see? I'll look into IndustrialPolymers.com as you suggested. Once I get all the pieces printed I'll print a couple extras to use for practice mold-making with TrueCast 90. Thanks for telling me about how you made your molds. I hope you don't mind if I pick your brain a bit when I'm ready to try mold making myself.

Good luck with your project and keep me posted on your progress.

Have a Better One!

Mike

[rubherkitty]

"SNIP"
I had originally considered building a full fiberglass mold but it would have meant I would have to break apart the sculpture to remove it from the finished mold.

Mike

Your right, I think the boobs may get trapped in a rigid mold. You may have to use a urethane or more expensive silicone mold first then a hard shell mother mold. Just make sure the silicone and urethane is compatible. In all my study, plat sil cast in urethane is a no no. Mannequin Man is using Tin cure silicone IIRC.

[BigBurrito]

Interesting info guys, seems we have to be part chemist to work with all the different materials, the face i made is melted from a TPE or a UR3 fleshlight, and poured into a Plaster of Paris mold i made from a manikin head. The body for me doesn't need all that detail yet, cuz i'm a face man. My next pour will be Smooth On Ecoflex 20, which i'm saving up for. I'm livin on 12,000$ a year, not much to play with, so no way i can afford all the silicon to do a whole body cast now

[BigBurrito]

This is the process i used for the body;
Making and constructing a silicone doll is the easy part. The hard part is totally knowing every curve and shape of a woman's body and shaping the outer core. I can't teach you all the curves, this is something you will learn as you go.
The best way to learn all the curves and shapes of a woman's body, is to study pictures and watch hot women in movies. Order some hot movies from our "toys you can buy" link.
Read all the below information once, so you'll have a better understanding of the procedures before you start.
You will also need to read and understand all the sex toy information. Without this knowledge, you will not be able to make a doll (I will refer to the sex toy information often.)
Also, you can try to make this torso made from a couch cushion

Getting started
The core body is made from PVC tubes, which you can find at most hardware stores. The small T shape PVC is a 4 inch test tee w/o plug.
The 2 even smaller round pieces are 4 inch male adapters that screw into the 4" test tee.
The large tube is 4 inches x 10 feet, sometimes hardware stores sell this in smaller cut sections for half the price.

Red dots and x's is where to cut the PVC tubes. Use a circular saw, drill, hack saw, or jig saw.
Measure 17 inches of the 4" x 10 large tube and cut. (see picture below)
Screw the 4" male adapter to the 17 inch piece of the 4" test tee.
Insert large cut tube into the male adapters.
Cut a hole about the size of your fist on top for the neck and head. Your fist should easily fit inside the tube.
Cut a hole 4.5 inches wide and 3" up and down for the vagina. Cut out the two red lines on the bottom of the body for the legs to be inserted.
After you make these cuts, use a steel file to smooth sharp plastic edges.

TORSO ONLY STEPS.
( If making a torso only without the neck and head, just cut out the hole for the vagina. Skip the 2 strap hole steps.)
( If making a torso only with a head, cut hole for neck and add one 2 strap hole Half way down the PVC tube.)



Two hole straps (hardware stores).
The black 2 hole strap shape on the PVC is where to bolt these. Any time you see this black drawing, attach a two hole strap. Do not use sharp screws here, you will be reaching inside the PVC tube to attach and stretch bungee cords for the legs, arms and head.
Use a drill to make pilot holes for the two strap holes on the outside of the PVC, then bolt them on the inside.

Now you're ready to start making the outer core body.
Wrap foam sheet (sex toy info) around PVC body, cut and duct-tape. Duct-tape around the waist tighter and looser as you make your way up and down from the waist. When using d-tape, cut off 12 inch sections of tape and apply to the doll. For any extra foam around the arm holes and leg holes, push foam inside and d-tape.You should use almost 1 roll of duct tape just for the torso alone. Try not to use too much d-tape on the butt, to keep the butt soft as possible for a realistic feel. Do not attempt to make the boobs while making the torso--the boobs will be done later.
In some spots you may need to add more cut foam sheets and d-tape, to get that hour glass shape. Experiment using different thickness of foam sheets, sometimes thinner foam sheets (carpet stores)are easier to make slight changes in the shape, but start off with the thicker foam sheet. You can also hot glue cut foam pieces to the doll to make slight changes in the doll's shape. Don't be afraid to cut out foam sections and d-tape over again, if it doesn't look right to you.
I did this a few times see example below right. I wanted the lower back smaller so I cut to the PVC and taped again. To make that long crease in the middle of the back, and the front, I cut out a long line of tape and foam using a razor blade and taped the cuts. Take your time with the torso, don't rush it.
To make the butt round and plump looking, I used the sex toy boob procedure. I glued a few pieces of foam sheet on top the butt and trimmed with scissors.
At the end of this info, I give some measurements for the torso, boobs and waist. But the size and shape is all up to you. If you do not know how to measure a women's body, Google "Body measurements."


(Making a Torso only doll, do the same as above. Skip down to making boobs after finished with above steps.)




The legs and arms are made from a lounge chair with locking joints. Make sure the chair you buy has both head and leg locking joints. ( wal-mart, seasonal) If making a doll during winter months you may have to look on-line for this chair. Thrift stores may also have this chair.

Cut fabric off chair, and use a hack saw or a circular saw with a steel blade to cut chair. The red slashes is where to cut the steel. When finished, you should have pieces that look like this. These will be used for the arms and legs.
Pay attention how the leg and arm joints bend, make sure you have the right steel joints for your legs and arms.
The upper parts of the legs and arms may be a little shorter then picture below. This is ok because you will add a 3/4" PVC tube to make this part longer (see below pictures).


Another option for legs and arms is a wood handle cut in half attached with corner braces. Use nuts, bolts and washers. Make everything tight. Use the same measurements with the wood as you would with the steel.
I really prefer the steel joints, over time the wood joints can become loose.



Once the cuts are made, slide a 3/4 inch PVC tube over upper leg like in picture above. Drill holes and insert screws to hold PVC to steel leg. Use a drill bit made for steel. This 3/4" tube will also be used on the heads.
Wrap sheet foam around steel leg and d-tape to make the first layer tight. Try to form somewhat of a leg shape. Around the knee area, I pulled the tape tighter. As I taped my way up, I used less pressure on the tape and foam. Again if you need to add more cut foam pieces, do it and tape again. The shape of you're doll and body parts are all up to you.
Glue the 100% polyester fleece from wal-mart (sex toy info) around the ankle and shin. Use straight silicone, hot glue or an all purpose spray adhesive. Don't glue the fleece above the knee yet.
I glued this polyester fleece on most of the doll to help smooth out lumps, bumps and d-tape lines. (I did not use this fleece around the upper thighs and butt).This fleece will make it easier to skin your doll. The glue I prefer is straight silicone, but use what you like.




Tie a bungee cord to the two strap hole on the leg. Your bungee cord should be long enough to reach a 2 strap hole on the upper body with some pressure on the cord. Your leg should fit snug inside the hip with good natural movement. You may have to tape more fabric or cut some off, for the hip to fit snug in the hip hole. Cut foam sheet so it will wrap around the upper leg and go over the front and butt cheek. (above picture). Straight silicone the foam around the thigh and insert the leg into the hip hole. Attach leg bungee cord to a 2 strap hole. D-tape around lower thigh, frontal area, and upper butt like picture below. Hot glue the foam sheet edges together. See on the thigh where there is not any d-tape. You must try not to tape the area around the thigh, so your doll can bend.
Do the other leg just like this one.


Left leg attached, D-taped lower thigh frontal area and upper butt cheek. ready to attach right leg.






This arm was made similar to the leg. Attach the 2 hole strap with screws where you see the 2 strap pic. Roll foam sheet around the steel arm cut and d-tape to make arm shape. See how the upper part of the arm looks round like a small ball. You need get this shape for both arms to fit in arm holes snug. To make this ball shape, use a tennis ball, cut 2 small round holes in the ball, so you can still attach a bungee cord to the 2 strap hole. D-tape ball around 2 strap hole, leaving a small opening to add a bungee cord.
Straight silicone evenly over the whole arm (use a craft stick to spread silicone) and add the white fleece you see. The fabric at the wrist is panty hose cut from a leg. Evenly silicone arm again and pull panty hose up the arm. Make sure the panty hose is glued snug around the arm. This will make it easer for you to skin and smooth later. The panty hose also holds everything together and keeps the shape.
Skin the arm using Method # 1. Do not skin the wrist just yet, this will be done when you add hands.

Before you skin, read and understand all the "sex toy info."
If this is your first time skinning something, I recommend practicing on something other then your doll, to really understand how it all works.

Making boobs.

Make your boobs using "sex toy info". Other options are hair balls, and nerf balls
Insert the pink hair ball in panty hose or a small sock and skin using Method # 1. Use Method # 2 for the nipple. For the blue nerf ball, cut the ball in half and trim to make boob.

Feet.

Make the feet the same way as making boobs in "sex toy info" with the foam sheet. Glue 2 layers of foam sheet together and trim to shape feet.
Skin the feet using Method # 1 or # 2 and do the toes using # 2. When you skin the toes you may need to put dish soap on a craft stick. Insert the stick between the toes to keep the skin from sticking to other toes. Toe nails use Method # 5 , # 3 or buy fake nails and straight silicone nails on the toes.




Hands.

Use "sex toy info: mood hand" to make hands
when making the hands, make sure you make a small loop and the bottom of the wrist (see picture).
This loop will fit inside the steel wrist and will be held in place with a screw.



Head.

The best way to make a head is to order Styrofoam heads from http://www.davessurplus.com/
If you don't want to make the head you can buy rubber mannequin heads from this web site.
You can also buy wigs for your doll at that the above site or:
http://www.adiscountbeauty.com/
http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink?wo ... index.html
4112.jpg
Styrofoam heads.
The nose and lips are a little small for me, so I cut off the lips and the tip of the nose. You can now skin the head using Method # 1. To make the nose, lips, and ears use Method # 3. Do the eyes using method # 5 starting with a white blank eye ball, then make the round color for the eyes. Straight silicone all together and where you want the eye to be.
Add a black dot of skin for the pupil. You can also buy realistic mannequin eyes for your doll at http://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/subcategory/33/

Eye lashes: I bought fake eye lashes and used straight silicone to glue them on. Use black skin for the eyeliner and eyebrows. Eyebrows can also be made from wigs or paint brushes. Cut off small pieces of hair and straight silicone to head. When mixing small amounts of skin use a small cup with a lot less skin. I used a toothpick to apply black eyeliner.



Making an oral head.
Skin the head using Method # 2, just around the face and let cure. Peel the skin off the head so you have a copy of the head. With this styrofoam head, I cut off the tip of the nose and lips. Cut the back of the head off like in the picture. Use a long serrated knife and cut with saw like motions. Now start cutting and digging from the back of the head to the mouth. Make the hole large enough to insert a blow job simulator. The hole also needs to be large enough for the blow job simulator to expand and contract. Use a small piece of cut foam sheet around the blow job simulator for this. You can order this blow job simulator from our "toys you can buy".
Cut out a small hole in the back of the head about the size of a dime, so water can flow from the mouth all the way though the head. This is so you can clean the mouth without taking it apart. Silicone the inside of the head. Do all areas that may come in contact with fluid to keep the inside water proof. Silicone the back cut part of head to the front part to keep the round head shape.

To make teeth, I cut and trimmed a small piece of foam sheet to look like teeth, and used Method # 2 to skin the teeth (see above picture). Straight silicone the teeth to the mouth. Use a staple to hold teeth in place until it's cured.
The lower neck at the bottom is flared on these Styrofoam heads, trim the lower neck so it is even with the upper neck. The neck needs to be the same size and shape so it can fit in the neck Hole.
Straight silicone peeled face back to head and skin the rest of the head using Method # 1 or 2. Lips, ears, nose and eye's do the same way as talked about earlier.

Cut off a 4 "piece of the 3/4" PVC pipe. Insert the PVC in the bottom of the neck hole and straight silicone the PVC to the head, (See picture below)
drill a hole at the very bottom of the PVC pipe so a bungee cord can be put in and pulled out of the hole. Use a bendable metal hook for the bungee cord, do not use a plastic hook.




The neck is made from a plastic 2 liter bottle of soda. Cut the top and bottom off and slice cylinder from top to bottom. Roll plastic in a narrow cylinder shape to fit around the neck. D-tape the neck to keep its shape. Remove the head and d-tape all around the outside and inside.

Tie a bungee cord to a spring lock (picture of spring lock above) and attach the spring lock to a lower 2 strap hole. Make sure the cord has just enough pressure to hold the head snug in the neck.
The neck will be taped to the body later. Just use the neck for now to attach the bungee cord.

Preparing the body for skinning. (Torso only begin here: go ahead and skin around the shoulder and neck skip the bungle cords procedure unless making torso with head)

Buy a few pairs of panty hose, pull the hose over top the torso and stretch panty hose to the waist. Stuff the pantyhose legs inside the arm hole--they will be used later. Straight silicone or all purpose spray adhesive the panty hose to the torso. Make sure the glue is spread evenly throughout the torso. DO NOT GLUE OR SKIN AROUND THE SHOULDERS AND NECK JUST YET. You still need to tape neck to body. You must attach all the bungie cords for the legs, arms and head first.

Now place your boobs in the area you want, straight silicone the bottom of the boobs to the panty hose.
Add 1 more layer of panty hose over the torso and boobs. This time, cut out little circles in the panty hose over the nipples and slide panty hose around the edges of your boobs. Stuff the extra panty hose legs in the shoulders again and straight silicone the panty hose to the back and torso one more time the same way as before.
You can now skin the torso using Method # 1 or 2. Do not skin near shoulders and neck yet.

To prepare the bottom part of the body and legs.

Cut a small hole in the panty hose where the neck will be.
Use a bungee cord to hook a 2 strap hole and hang the doll on a shower rod while you silicone the butt, frontal area and upper legs. (see below pictures.)
Use a pair of panty hose pull them up the dolls legs and stretch them to overlap the torso pantyhose.
Cut the panty hose off at the knees. Slide the panty hose at the knees down to the ankles. Slide the panty hose around the butt and front to the knees. Straight silicone all around butt, frontal area and upper legs. Pull the panty hose back up and over the silicone.
Straight silicone the pantyhose from the ankle up to the upper leg. Again, pull lower leg panty hose over silicone and let cure. Make sure you overlap the lower and upper panty hose.
Because you are working in a smaller area and the smell of uncured silicone can be strong, make sure there is plenty of ventilation.
Doll hanging on shower rod. Ready to straight silicone panty hose around butt, frontal area, waist and upper legs.
Skin doll butt, waist, frontal area and around upper thighs using Method # 1 or # 2. Helpful hint, before skinning around upper thigh and around lower butt position the doll so the legs are slightly spread and bend forward. This will make it easier for the doll to bend and stretch in the positions you want.
Skinned doll torso, butt and upper thighs. Lower legs, arms lower legs and neck still need to be finished. You can now cut a small hole in the panty hose where the vagina will go. To make the belly bottom cut out a small hole with a razor blade and skin using method # 2.
Straight silicone white fabric to leg, and silicone panty hose to lower leg and over lap upper leg. Skin legs using method #1 or #2 and blend upper and lower leg together.

Pull the extra panty hose out of the arm socket and cut hose off, leave about 3 inches from the shoulder.( see Picture below)

Ready to insert arms into arm hole socket.
If you look closely at the 2 pictures above you will see the boobs or different. One on the left was made with hair balls, the one on the right was made from the foam sheet. At any time of your construction or even after your done if you want to change anything, do it. You can always cut sections out and add something different. Skin around the cuts and blend. It's easer then you think.
Now put arms in the sockets, pull the panty hose over the arm and attach bungee cords to the 2 hole straps where it will reach and have some pressure. Using the spring links will really make this easier. (see above picture).
Straight silicone the extra panty hose around shoulder and arm. Finish skinning arm and shoulder using Method # 1. Blend everything together. Do the same thing to the other arm.
Doll all skinned except neck, and around the wrist. To add the hands, drill a hole at the wrist and insert 1 small screw to hold hand loop to the wrist. Straight silicone under the panty hose at the wrist and pull hose 1 inch over the hand. You& may have to cut off extra panty hose to make the wrist tight. Use staples to hold panty hose to the hand until the silicone is firm. Skin the wrist using Method # 1, or #2 to blend the hand and wrist together.



The vagina

You can make one like in the "toys you can make" but in my opinion, the best thing you can do is to buy the virtual girl from our "toys you can buy". The vagina hole measurements you cut is perfect for this. This virtual girl has both entry holes that vibrate, and it feels real. This is well worth the money.

If you want to add pubic hair, use the same method used for the eyebrows.

Virtual Girl Vibrating Vagina


Attaching feet
Cut out a hole on the red x and insert foot to the doll ankle. Straight silicone foot to doll. Skin using Method # 1 or 2 and blend foot to ankle then add toenails using whatever method you chose for the hands.



The neck

You should have already cut and taped the neck using the 2 litter bottle of soda. Now you need to tape the neck over the neck hole. Tape really good, use smaller pieces of tape to do this. Tape inside and outside the neck.

Skin neck and shoulders using Method # 1 or 2.
You can now attach the bungee cord to the head and insert head into neck hole.

Making the collar bones. Use straight silicone from the gun to build up the bone look and use Method # 2 to blend it all together.




Measurements for this doll:

Height 5'4"

Boobs 41"

Under boobs 25"

Waist 26"

Hips 37"

The measurements I gave you will make a doll about 5'4". Want a doll taller or shorter? Add or subtract a few inches off the large PVC tube from the first step, and do the same with the legs and arms to keep the body in proportion.




To buy sexy lingerie and accessories for your doll check out our "toys you can buy"

Toy Store
Lingerie Store

Also check updated posts at:

HomemadeLovedolls Yahoo Group

©

[Lupin3]

Hi Mike - as a long time Daz3d user, I've wanted to investigate the feasibility of just what you're doing. I have several kitbashed custom models built, and some ideas for small improvements in doll construction, but have little experience with 3d printing. I wondered if you wouldn't mind me asking what printer setup you used for your prints - they look fantastic.

Thanks!

[MannequinFan]

Hi Mike - as a long time Daz3d user, I've wanted to investigate the feasibility of just what you're doing. I have several kitbashed custom models built, and some ideas for small improvements in doll construction, but have little experience with 3d printing. I wondered if you wouldn't mind me asking what printer setup you used for your prints - they look fantastic.

Thanks!

Take a look on page 1 of the thread - he gave the details of his printer and materials he's using.

[MIKE238]

Hi Lupin. Yep, I'm using a gMax 1.5+ printer (build by gCreate) that has a volume of 400mm x 400mm x 525mm in height so I can print some very large pieces for my doll project. Right now, though, my printer is not working as it, for some reason, is not able to read the SD card which has the gCodes for the parts. gCreate has sent me a new ribbon cable which I will get on Monday so I hope that will solve the problem. If the problem still exists I will then have to run the printer from an external computer which would be no problem but a little harder to set up for printing.

But, yes, you can find most of my printing setup on the first page and if you have any other questions, feel free!