My Size Barbie Mod - 3d Print files for Download

MannequinFan · Post by **MannequinFan** » Wed Feb 17, 2016 7:18 pm

A note regarding the cost at Shapeways...

There is about 50cc of material in the 2mm shelled leg cup above.
Using the prices here http://www.shapeways.com/materials/stro ... le-plastic, it looks like the cost would be about $26 USD for one leg cup.
A little less than I thought but would get pretty costly to do the whole thing.

mike_hunt · Post by **mike_hunt** » Wed Feb 17, 2016 7:25 pm

A little off topic, but the breast design is perfect - puffy nipples, nice down slope - can you influence any silicone manufacturers to implement this design? Nice work.

DDdioxine · Post by **DDdioxine** » Wed Feb 17, 2016 7:26 pm

MannequinFan wrote: Regarding the hemi question, the magnets won't scratch the hemi as they are recessed enough to leave a small gap. There is an issue with the paint being marred by the pressure of the leg cup against it though. What I did for Abby was to first give the hemis 3 good coats of paint, then give them at least 3 coats of a clear matte acrylic like Krylon. Next I rubbed some bar soap on the leg cup surface which helps to lubricate it some. This seems to be working to protect the paint. The only caveat to this is the legs don't hold a pose as well, but they move nicely in play.

I'm glad you brought this up because I may have a solution to this issue.
I found these thin anti-skid rubber pads at my local Home Depot...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1 ... /203661152

I think these could be recessed into the leg cup. They are 1/16" (1.6mm) thick so they could stick up just a little to keep the leg cup from rubbing on the paint. I may give this a test here to see if it will work.

Here's the leg cup with the pads recessed 1mm...
leg cup pads.jpg

I thought of the issue when I plan to modify my Barbie's hands with magnetic door stopper.

I got the photo of the ball & socket type door stopper somewhere but cannot find it yet...

DD.

DDdioxine · Post by **DDdioxine** » Wed Feb 17, 2016 7:28 pm

MannequinFan wrote:A note regarding the cost at Shapeways...

There is about 50cc of material in the 2mm shelled leg cup above.
Using the prices here http://www.shapeways.com/materials/stro ... le-plastic, it looks like the cost would be about $26 USD for one leg cup.
A little less than I thought but would get pretty costly to do the whole thing.

Shapeways now calculate the cost not only based on material but also other factors like machine space. I'm not surprised that the price will be up when the files are actually uploaded.

DD.

MannequinFan · Post by **MannequinFan** » Wed Feb 17, 2016 7:45 pm

The $26 includes all three prices - $1.50 part price + $0.28/cc material + $0.21/cc machine.
You would probably want to make the connection rings integral with the parts and thinner as there is no support material to worry about with the SLS process.

On the subject of hands, I also have a socket that will plug into the arm hole on the MSB that would allow the use of Abby's articulated arms, and a neck adapter for Abby's head. I won't be giving those designs away though.

: IMG_3884.JPG (452.65 KiB) Viewed 3431 times

I'm printing out the leg cup with the pad recesses right now. I'm eager to see how well this works.
I have an idea for a printed hip joint instead of the hemis but I haven't got it into Rhino yet. It would be a ball-in-ball joint similar to Abby's arm joints. Just gets a bit complicated.
The nice thing about the hemis and magnets is that it's so simple, and the movement is smooth and omnidirectional and no slots needed.

DDdioxine · Post by **DDdioxine** » Wed Feb 17, 2016 8:00 pm

MannequinFan wrote:The $26 includes all three prices - $1.50 part price + $0.28/cc material + $0.21/cc machine.
You would probably want to make the connection rings integral with the parts and thinner as there is no support material to worry about with the SLS process.

On the subject of hands, I also have a socket that will plug into the arm hole on the MSB that would allow the use of Abby's articulated arms, and a neck adapter for Abby's head. I won't be giving those designs away though.

I'm printing out the leg cup with the pad recesses right now. I'm eager to see how well this works.
I have an idea for a printed hip joint instead of the hemis but I haven't got it into Rhino yet. It would be a ball-in-ball joint similar to Abby's arm joints. Just gets a bit complicated.
The nice thing about the hemis and magnets is that it's so simple, and the movement is smooth and omnidirectional.

On the other hand, fused nylon is extremely tough and with such shape and size, the material thickness can go down to 1.5mm or even 1mm. I might try 1.25mm to go with polished strong and flexible.

Love to see how you go with the print.

DD.

MannequinFan · Post by **MannequinFan** » Wed Feb 17, 2016 8:06 pm

mike_hunt wrote:A little off topic, but the breast design is perfect - puffy nipples, nice down slope - can you influence any silicone manufacturers to implement this design? Nice work.

Thanks Mike!

I tweaked them a little and I think they look much more natural now.

I think Patrick at PIB has done a nice job with the breasts on the new island girl body - probably the best natural looking puffy nipple breasts I've seen on a doll. Also the Ruby13 Presley has the puffy nipple thing going on.

MannequinFan · Post by **MannequinFan** » Wed Feb 17, 2016 10:45 pm

Alright, the leg cup print was successful!

The rubber pads work nicely. Firm grip, should be able to hold any pose.
Rubbing a little bar soap on the hemi makes it move more smoothly and easily.
The question now is how long the pads will last with continual movement.
The adhesive backing isn't permanent so I think they should be removable for replacement.

leg cups with pads-STL.pdf: (725.15 KiB) Downloaded 163 times

leg cup-L-pads Rhino4.pdf: (146.44 KiB) Downloaded 150 times

deadpringle · Post by **deadpringle** » Wed Feb 17, 2016 10:59 pm

My goodness, you're one of the most industrious people I've ever seen MF!

If you're not making money at doing this, let me say, you should be.

I'm anxious to see her finished. I've seen these dolls in toy stores before, and wondered how they might be modified for, ahem, "alternative" purposes.

MannequinFan · Post by **MannequinFan** » Thu Feb 18, 2016 12:11 am

Thanks DP!

Going on 5 years now since I lost my job in the architectural world, so I've got to do something to keep busy and be creative. This is a lot more fun BTW.

I'm hoping that by the time I get Abby polished up more people will be getting 3d printers and wanting fun unique projects to do. I hope to offer her as a downloadable kit in the future, and I may also consider becoming a vendor here in the future if there is any interest.

Anyway, had all these files for the MSB sitting around so I thought I'd let others have some fun with it.
Maybe the files will go viral and I'll see tons of sexually mutated MSBs showing up all over the place!

samara78 · Post by **samara78** » Thu Feb 18, 2016 12:38 am

M.F amazing bravo!!! Can't wait to see her finished. It's amazing your mastery of auto cad engineering and things of the like.

MannequinFan · Post by **MannequinFan** » Thu Feb 18, 2016 2:03 am

Hey Sam thanks! I appreciate your kind words!

Abby is close to being done but I keep getting sidetracked. I think I must have ADD, lol.

DDdioxine · Post by **DDdioxine** » Thu Feb 18, 2016 12:44 pm

A question, why is the pelvis divided into upper and lower? Any functional aspect?

DD.

MannequinFan · Post by **MannequinFan** » Thu Feb 18, 2016 2:53 pm

DDdioxine wrote:A question, why is the pelvis divided into upper and lower? Any functional aspect?

DD.

There was two reasons -
One, my printer's max height is about 5" so the full pelvis was just a little too tall. I figured this may be a problem for others as well.

The other reason was to eliminate the need for any support material.
On a filament printer, you'd want to print the pelvis upside down (waist joint on print platform) so there is no support material needed for the hip overhangs. If you printed it full size you would need support material about 4" tall underneath the ledge that holds the fleshlight sleeve in.

For SLS printers support material is not an issue so printing it in one piece wouldn't be a problem.

Here are the full height pelvis files. I think this should cover the gamut of printing needs.

pelvis-full.pdf: (1.55 MiB) Downloaded 179 times

pelvis-full-splt.pdf: (1.61 MiB) Downloaded 158 times

pelvis-full-Rhino4.pdf: (681.49 KiB) Downloaded 150 times

DDdioxine · Post by **DDdioxine** » Thu Feb 18, 2016 7:09 pm

MannequinFan wrote:
DDdioxine wrote:A question, why is the pelvis divided into upper and lower? Any functional aspect?

DD.
There was two reasons -
One, my printer's max height is about 5" so the full pelvis was just a little too tall. I figured this may be a problem for others as well.

The other reason was to eliminate the need for any support material.
On a filament printer, you'd want to print the pelvis upside down (waist joint on print platform) so there is no support material needed for the hip overhangs. If you printed it full size you would need support material about 4" tall underneath the ledge that holds the fleshlight sleeve in.

For SLS printers support material is not an issue so printing it in one piece wouldn't be a problem.

Here are the full height pelvis files. I think this should cover the gamut of printing needs.
pelvis-full.pdf

pelvis-full-splt.pdf

pelvis-full-Rhino4.pdf