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Slate wrote:all turned out kind of amber in color.
thats the normal colour latex cures in.
if you place your plaster mold in a ventalated area with a heater on in to help evaperate the moister from the latex. it will cure faster otherwise 2 inch thick latex could take a week or so to cure at room tempatrue. I'm not to sure of putting the mold in the oven.
I made acouple copies of a cyperskin pussy. and the heater helped cure it in a few days. I mixed up some acrylic paint. used a tiny drop of paint and mixed it with a plastic pop bottle cap full of water then mixed it with the latex. don't over do it with the paint. a little goes a long way.
"What kind (brand) of silicone did you use to make your foot casts? I'll be making mine from the feet of a Chasey Lain doll because they're the same size as the Madame's and much more realistic, but I'm a total novice with chemicals."
Used natural latex, cast in plaster moulds. BTW, if you're using Chasey's feet as a master, you'll need to make two-part moulds.
"What did you mutilate to come up with the collar bones and shoulders? From your pictures, it looks like the collar bones can move up and down and the shoulders rotate. What did you make these pieces out of?"
Unlike the hips, which use furniture casters, the shoulders are constructed from custom-made parts. The collar bones are made from anodized aluminum tubing (one design used plastic). They are jointed at the spine and shoulder with custom-made aluminum pieces which are machined off a length of 20mm*20mm U-profile (some designs use single-axis casters for the joint with the spine). The large wood balls fitted to the upper end of the arms in most designs are present to make the shoulder feel more realistic thru the skin, and play no role in the articulation of the joint. The "new plastic" design dispensed with these and joined the collar bones directly to the upper arms.
"Did you ever try to provide rotation at the elbow joint so that the hands could rotate? If so, what difficulties did you encounter?"
No, but in the latest design (the skeleton fitted to Rachel before she was sold) the wrist joint was able to rotate as well as move up and down. I think you can see this in the skeleton shots. The elastic tension of the latex skin always works against joint rotation - you have to think carefully if the movement you want from the skeleton is achievable inside the doll.
"Did you ever try to provide some articulation in the spine? It seems to me that even a single rotating joint would do much for the doll's 'posability.' Again, if you've tried this, what difficulties did you encounter?"
The spine in my skeletons can rotate forwards and backwards around the pelvis (one axis of movement) so in posing the doll (standing for instance) it's only necessary to ensure she's stable in that axis. With the spine able to rotate completely freely at the pelvis, she has to be stable across the whole horizontal plane, or she'll tip over sidewise. That said, just because I couldn't get it to work, doesn't mean you or someone else won't be able
to, so don't be put off trying - I'm just telling you why I didn't do it myself.
"By the way, my idea for articulating the spine and wrists is a simple slip-joint: find a piece of PVC that fits snugly inside the forearm or spine, glue it in place on one end so that it protrudes into the other end. Sand it down to make it a loose fit, cut a groove through the other end. Join the two pieces of the forearm, put a screw into the piece that joins the two pieces. The screw keeps the joint from coming apart and the length of the groove controls range of motion. I wish that I could illustrate this; a picture really does say a thousand words."
Sorry, haven't a clue what you're on about, but it sounds interesting all the same.
