Build up size on limbs and butt

[AIMD]

And another point ....

If you want to add bulk or bulge under the TPE skin, consider an encapsulated solution, similar to breast implants.

As an example consider a butt bulge modification.
Cut open the target area, then scoop out TPE leaving about 2cm TPE to the outside and a deeper opening to hold your stuff.
Get a squishier material and double bag it and seal it well in a plastic bag. If a ziplock type, position the hard edge inside toward the core.
Insert bag and seal up the TPE.

For a human the incision would be under the butt cheek, which would heal leaving a minor unseen scar.
For a doll the cut should be on outside of the leg. Easier to seal up and easier to blend back to shape.

Smaller and tubular bags can be used if you want to add arm or leg bulk under the TPE skin.
That might be an easier route than molten TPE or even TPE paste.

There is a good post HERE (viewtopic.php?t=161581) which goes over breast surgery.
Many of those techniques might come in handy in your project.

Cheers!
... W ...

Could this be used to add bulk to arms, create abs, widen a waist, etc? What would be a good material so create a natural flex so it doesn't look blocky? Could TPE yoga mats or possibly memory/regular foam be used?

[Wheezer]

Could this be used to add bulk to arms, create abs, widen a waist, etc? What would be a good material so create a natural flex so it doesn't look blocky? Could TPE yoga mats or possibly memory/regular foam be used?

Anything chunky under the TPE skin will still feel chunky.
I guess if you are going for a sickly or mutant feel that might work.

You MIGHT be able to carve memory foam to emulate a thin muscle, cut out a spot and insert.
But for something like that you would need to consider how to bind to the base TPE and avoid internal slippage.
The first time you feel something move inside TPE it is quite creepy.

Honestly, you need to step back from thinking your human looking TPE sex doll is built like a human and should be upgraded like a human.
For a human you peel pack skin, insert something, slip back, stich and it heals.
TPE sex doll are generally just one solid blob of TPE, so that does not work well.

If you want effective looking and working additional muscles or details, then work WITH the TPE.
You can carve and cast whatever details you want, then attach with chemicals and or heat.
Just plan and design first to tale into account movement and flex on you add on part.

The only really successful insertions that have worked well with TPE are breasts (usually already hollow), facial improvements (between the skull and TPE head flesh that covers it) and some situations where butt size was increased (already hollow of filled with gel).

You might find a magic method to do it, but it will take some time, testing and practice.

But hey, you might surprise eveyone.

Go for it.
... W ...

[AIMD]

So would casting muscles, etc. from TPE (pocket pussies and so forth) and inserting them under the skin with either a chemical or heat bond work? Would it flatten out too much or would the skin have to be quite thin? The waist on a TPE doll from China is about the same size as an eleven year old girl--not attractive.

[Wheezer]

So would casting muscles, etc. from TPE (pocket pussies and so forth) and inserting them under the skin with either a chemical or heat bond work? Would it flatten out too much or would the skin have to be quite thin? The waist on a TPE doll from China is about the same size as an eleven year old girl--not attractive.

Please see post ABOVE ^^

There is no "skin" on a TPE doll.
It is basically a monolithic blob of TPE that is one piece of TPE surrounding a skeleton.
There is no TPE muscles with a layer of skin on top. It is one big molded lump with pretty details.

Various dolls have different shapes, from wasp waists to BBW bigguns.
The easiest, fastest and most successful route it to GET A DOLL THAT MEETS YOUR NEEDS.

Getting an inexpensive or smaller doll then trying to bulk her up is a chore with risks a lot of failure points along the way.
If you really want to go down that route, then purchase another doll to practice on before you hack on your beloved.
You will probably make mistakes, gaffes and things you won't be able to fix or smooth over the first time.

But then, it's your doll ... do what you want.

Cheers!
... W ...

[AIMD]

My apologies for not being clear. I understand TPE does not have skin so what I should have said is create an opening and insert something inside, such as a shaped block of TPE to create bulk, especially since TPE is stretchy. Using anything else would probably require binding that something to the skeleton in some fashion so it doesn't move in a creepy way or making sure it isn't detrimental to the TPE.
I'm a tinkerer and your posts, as well as others, inspire me to improve on what I have. There are three dolls in my collection so lots of room to experiment. Yes, mistakes have been made but it's a learning process, especially how to fix those mistakes. I've figured out how to make more realistic eyebrows easily using wig hair (pretty simple) or yarn (a little tougher) and I'll post a tutorial at some point (still working on the pubic hair aspect though). Also trying to figure out how to make more realistic movable eyelids using TPE and other materials. Also in the works are a movable mouth, synchronized eyes, facial expressions, etc. For a voice a very small bluetooth speaker inside the mouth but that's not optimum and needs to be placed elsewhere.
So when I ask questions I am not being obtuse but simply relying on the wealth of experience here so a path is at least available to follow. And maybe a new parh is required I don't know, but if something already works that would be the preferred choice, or at least a guideline.
So thank you for your patience and teaching, they are much appreciated, but please be warned, I will continue to ask questions over and over again until I find the solutions I seek and then will gladly share them with everyone here.

[Wheezer]

OK .. makes sense and sometimes I get cranky.
Also I look at it from what will work with most or all doll, not one-off creations.

Actual TPE skin can be made with several methods.
One way is to make some TPE paste then spread it thin on a glass or surface to sure. Depending on the thickness of the paste you can get TPE skin from as thin as translucent to a bit thick.
Another is to melt and cast TPE sheet to the thickness you need. A metal or silicone form works well for that. See HERE (viewtopic.php?t=157827) for an overview on melting and casting.
One more method is to use an adjustable temperature wire foam cutter to slice off thin strips of TPE. This can get you good and odd organic shapes for items like labia, but it is not easy to get a uniform thickness. Plus you need a good block of TPE to start with.

Were I so inclined to add muscles and more defined arm and leg definition I would probably proceed as follows:

1) With the wire foam cutter shave down the arm or leg to a smaller and semi uniform diameter. Basically more tubular.

2) Create clay sculptures of the desired muscles and such. Sculpt directly on the doll and have decent reference material available. Take my time and look from many angles. Plan on a bit undersize to compensate for later skin covering. Clean doll well once done with sculpting. Use oil or a barrier to insure final sculpt can be removed from the doll. The material depends on the sculpting clay.

3) When I get what looks good, fire the clay sculptures, then make silicone molds from them. Plaster is also an mold option.

4) Take part of the removed TPE from earlier, melt and use for casting.

5) Cast one sample and test. For softer add a drop of two of mineral oil to the melt pot. For harder add more virgin TPE pellets.

6) Once TPE is of the right blend, cast one test unit and place on doll. Look to see if things turned out as planned. Adjust if needed.

7) When satisfied, cast the appropriate parts from the correct TPE blend. Demold and let cure.

8) Sculpt skin masters with the detail I desire. Skin detail can be added as required using various skin tools and rollers for sculpting.

9) Create skin master molds from fired clay masters. Cast skin from the original TPE removed from the doll.

10) Take cured muscle details and attach to doll using thinned 3M 94 primer paste. That will fill in any voids between the doll and applied part. Use pins or wrap in cling film or such to insure a tight fit while curing. Allow sufficient time to cure. Probably add more time if using cling film for wrapping. If using cling film, oil the TPE first to prevent any seeping 3M 94 from bonding it to the TPE.

11) Blend edges of applied part using heat, micro soldering irons, clover tool or sculpting tools heated in hot oil.

12) Test fit skin over applied lower parts. Adjust and size them so any seam is minimized and in in the back portion and hidden.

13) Again use thin 3M 94 paste to attach skin to lower parts. Same method to insure good sealing during curing.

14) Blend in skin seam line using micro soldering tools to make it look natural and organic.

15) If necessary use straight 3M 94 with a stippling brush to add texture and remove any straight (non-organic) lines or artifacts. For larger areas a hot air gun applied over oiled TPE then hit with a stippling or poster paint or stencil brush can give effective pore structure. Avoid high heat directly on the bristles.

16) Step back, observe results and correct any imperfections.

NOTE:
You could skip the skin if all you want is additional definition. Then just sculpt the new parts and add on. Once done blend and add whatever skin detail you need.
Probably easier but you then miss the various densities under the skin that you were looking for.

One important aspect if to observe and map flex points such as inner and outer elbow, knee, etc.
Those will result in either high tension or compression that will deform the TPE (compression) or may cause delamination failures due to tension.
If those happen then use typical repair techniques.

The result would look good ... BUT ... still be a glorified repair and have multiple potential failure points.
While it may look like a TPE doll, it will not be of the same structural integrity as a hot molded TPE doll.
Pretty close, but not the same. So use appropriate care and expect occasional fixes.

Just my take on it .. others would probably do it differently.

Cheers!
... W ...

[AIMD]

Thanks for the ideas which have given me a few of my own. The stippling thing for texture is nice and maybe there's a way to do that by making a custom head for a soldering iron so it's an all-in-one.
I have quite a few pocket pussies for extra material but I think they would be great to experiment with in regards to bulking since they already have a hole and can be stuffed to create a definition. As well they might be able to be used to create muscles, etc. by shaping then attaching to a doll.
I'm also going to experiment with EVA and yoga mat foam to see if they could be inserted under TPE for bulk and definition since those foams are more readily available. I don't think there would be a reaction since TPE is incorporated into some EVA foams already.

[RevJack]

So here is an alternative approach.

Let's use calves as an example. Instead of trying to insert TPE into an inner hole, slit the back of the calf open where it needs some added girth. Slit it right down to the bone. Now spread the slit open and insert a wedge of TPE. This will make the calf fatter and will not "stretch" the existing TPE over the insert.
Working with titties I have found that my seams fail when trying to secure "stretched" TPE. Heat works better than 3M on TPE under tension, but over time they have all failed.
Using a wedge results in a positive pressure on the raw surfaces, enhancing and encouraging bonding. Heat seal it or 3M it, dealers choice. When the wedge is secured, you need to smooth out the seams on the back of the calf, I use heat for that.
Keep your wedges as monolithic single blocks as you can. If you need to build a wedge from pieces, do it on the work table, then insert it as a single wedge into the body.
I would get a used doll to sacrifice and cut the big wedges from. I would not try to build the wedges from scraps.

Reverend Jack

[Wheezer]

Yup Rev .. that is the major point of TPE that a lot of folks miss.

Under compression into itself or a neutral position, TPE can just hum along and not care.
But when under tension it will, no matter what, over time split.
That is just the nature of the material.

With enough repairs that sort of becomes just a known item, like don't try to inhale water.

Glub, glub.
...W...

[RevJack]

Wheezer,
I started to get worried because folks were talking about stretching pockets closed over fillers and well, that just won't work long term.

Reverend Jack

[Wheezer]

Yup, it looks like a babe, feels like a babe and fucks like a babe (well, one who is passed out or an ex-wife) so I guess I should fix her like a babe.
Ah, no. Not quite.

A wee bit different.

Cheers!
...W...

[AIMD]

Thanks, I was wondering about the tension thing. I'll see if there can be a workaround during the experimentation. I'm one of those idiots who has to try for themselves to see the actual results. Of course this will be done on other TPE toys first.

[RevJack]

Thanks, I was wondering about the tension thing. I'll see if there can be a workaround during the experimentation. I'm one of those idiots who has to try for themselves to see the actual results. Of course this will be done on other TPE toys first.

I'm certain I just gave you the solutionfor the tension issue.

[AIMD]

I'm certain I just gave you the solutionfor the tension issue.

Yes, of course you did, and thank you for that. I just like to experiment so I can see the results for myself and possibly find other solutions. It doesn't always work but I like to try.

[muesky6969]

Hey Rev!

So this information is giving me pause over the weight reduction Idea.. The idea of weight reduction, is to split the larger areas open, cut out a good portion of tpe, leaving only about an inch layer of TPE. Then using paste install four-way stretch mesh, pack the area with foam, before closing the area back up.. To keep the foam from shifting, I was going to cover it, with the stretch mesh and paste it into the liner mesh. Will probably need to put in some anchor stitches, then seal it all back up and re-sculpt that area to cover the modification. I am concerned about the density difference, so am not sure if I should use a harder or softer foam..

I have two BBW dolls that were given to me that weight 100lbs+ each. They would be perfect for experimenting to reduce the weight.. With the big butts, thighs and calves, boobs and hollowing out the torso, I think I can get about 30lbs off, the doll. I don't know about you, but 70lbs is much more doable then 100lbs..