Rosemary Doll Cleaning Tool

[hardwiguy]

Is it just me, or is the drying tool extremely girthy? Seems like it would stretch a hole too much?

[hardwiguy]

Sorry to post twice in a row in the same thread, but I did want to point something out to "my fellow Americans": the inverter/power adapter brick that comes with this device is rated at 110V, which is the Japanese (and probably some other countries') voltage standard, but US outlets give 120V. Unless this adapter brick is designed to handle both 110/120V, you'd risk damaging the cleaning kit. Rosemary Doll doesn't have any detailed photos of the power brick on their site.

[jeep2639]

I guess they ship different brick to different places. I'm in the US, and my brick is listed 100-240V.

[Wheezer]

Please see the previous image of the back of the power brick as supplied in the kit.
The power brick is listed as 100-240V - 50/60Hz 1.6A. Note this is the actual power brink, not a specification given by the vendor.
That range works fine in the US. I plugged it in and ran it with no problems.

While US voltage is specified as 120V, actual voltage at the outlet can vary up/down 5% or between 114 and 126 volts depending on the house lines, number of loads, etc.
For a PSU pushing out a max of 12V/10A or 120 watts, fluctuation of the input voltage is not a big deal.
About the ONLY thing you can depend on is the 60Hz AC sine wave so your clocks all keep good time.

As to girthy, that was the first thing I noted and fixed.

More later.
... W ...

[jeep2639]

As to girthy, that was the first thing I noted and fixed.

More later.
... W ...

How did you fix it?

[trendysteven]

Hi Wheezer - thanks for the thread and taking the time to share your thoughts. I have one ordered and it's arriving soon, and am interested in your opinion of its effectiveness! Did you get around to using the device?

Also, to echo Jeep's comment above.. how did you fix the 'girthiness' of the drying nozzle?

[Elf1248]

Thanks for your work from me as well.
According to the description this device does the drying as well. From your experience, is it sufficient or is an additional drying procedure necessary?

[DocWen]

Hmmm, I have one. I think I'll use it tomorrow for funzies to see if it works well.

[Wheezer]

OK, OK ... I have the images for and will put some up with my ideas and fixes.

Sheepishly I have to admit that about the same time as this I stared working on and and reviewing different types of silicone ROS heads.
I have been doing head work and oral head design for a couple of years and the ROS ones are REALLY interesting.
And ... well ... yeah ... you can guess what happened.

Once I started testing various heads on different dolls.
Let's just say there has not been a lot of doll lower part cleaning needed.

More to cum on the cleaning tool.

Oh and yes, I found a fix to the 'girthiness' issue.

Cheers!
...W...

[Elf1248]

OK, OK ... I have the images for and will put some up with my ideas and fixes.

Well ....yeah.... you can guess what happened.

Looking forward to it

Well, it's not that hard to guess.... Sounds like a lot of fun

[DocWen]

I used it yesterday on my Etsuko. It worked great. The dry function puts out tons of air and dried her up quick.

BUT...

Do NOT lay the cleaning hose down. To drain the device, it's done by gravity. If you lay the nozzle on the ground/floor/lower than the box, you'll have a puddle of dirty water at your feet.

Having learned that, I'd use it again. I might just come up with a cap for the nozzle.

[DocWen]

Thanks for your work from me as well.
According to the description this device does the drying as well. From your experience, is it sufficient or is an additional drying procedure necessary?

It dries really, really well. Just keep in mind that it's NOISY. No doing this on the sly like with a aquarium air pump.

[Wheezer]

Rosemary Doll Cleaning Tool - Part 1 - Unit Overview and Internals

Overview
The unit is a complete cleaning system that lets you take the cleaning to your doll and get her internally clean without making a mess. It consists of a box that holds cleaning fluid and captures residue, has a cleaning wand which supplies cleaning water and evacuates water using a single hose, a hot air device for drying, holders for all attachments and a carry handle. As shipped it comes with a desiccant stick to remove excess water and a “safety cover” which can be attached over the air drier switch. Use of either is optional.
KIT AS SHIPPED

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Power is supplied by a 12 volt power brick. The power brick output is at 12 volts and 10 amps. Input voltage is stated to be from 100V to 240V at 50/60Hz and max 1.6 amps. The unit as shipped contained a US style power plug. Per the rating plate, the PSU can be used on various international mains power with the use of an appropriate adapter plug to go from mains power to the power brick.
POWER SUPPLY

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Construction
The cleaning unit external housing is all plastic, with the exception of a metal power plug and switches. The top of the unit has a metal instruction plate and tool holders. The top is attached to the base housing by two small self-tapping screws. The top plate actually includes some good tips and instructions, including a warning about water draining if the wand is below the tank. The plate is covered in plastic to prevent damage from water spills.
UNIT COVER AND PLATE

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Cleaning Tanks
The base housing holds two tanks, one for cleaning fluid and the other for residue. The cleaning tank can hold at most 1.2 liters of solution, not 1.6 liters as listed in manual. For ease of use, just fill it with 1 liter of solution.
INTERNAL LIQUID TANKS

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The fluid tank has a molded depression to fit the pump. It is mounted outside the tank and draws cleaning fluid form the bottom of the tank. Due to the intake position, a little bit of cleaning fluid will remain in the tank after use.
INTERNAL PUMP

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The drain tank gathers the used cleaning fluid by gravity, there is no evacuation pump. During cleaning, make sure the unit is BELOW the doll, so used fluid can flow down into the drain tank. To empty the drain tank, place the cleaning wand in a container lower than the unit and used liquid will flow out.

Both tanks are connected by an overflow tube to eliminate spills from over fill. The base of the box also has a small drain hole for any spills that come from filling the cleaning tank.

Electronics and wiring
The base also holds various electrical wires and a small controller board. The controller board is for the hot air drying unit fan and heating element.
All components and wires are insulated and sealed with decent looking heat shrink of adequate length. The controller board is also sealed with larger heat shrink tubing.

Everything inside the box runs on 12 volts and is insulated and protected from water. It should survive an occasional spill or such.
Any water that would get into the internal case is drained by the drain hole in the base. Thus water issues should not be a problem.
INTERNAL WIRING AND CONTROLLER

(06)_CONTROLLER.jpg (811.08 KiB) Viewed 166 times

[ Next – Part 2 Cleaning Wand and Drying Unit ]

Cheers!
...W...

[Elf1248]

Great work and highly appreciated

[Wheezer]

Rosemary Doll Cleaning Tool - Part 2 - Cleaning Wand and Drying Unit

Cleaning Wand
The cleaning wand is the major part of the system. You simply insert this into the target area, push the button on the handle and cleaner is pumped in and drained out. The handle is firm but the button is a bit touchy. The pump activated by the button is live once you plug in the 12 volt power.

The output pump delivers about 3.5 liters per minute when placed level with the pump. That gives you at least a full 17 seconds or so of full blast of cleaning solution. In use the unit will be below the doll so the flow rate will be somewhat reduced.

For cleaning I have been doing two quick taps of the button to squirt cleaner, wait a bit to let it drain, then repeat the two tap and drain routine until the tank is empty. You can tell the tank is empty when the pump motor changes sound. Obviously you don’t want to keep running the pump once the tank is empty.

Make sure to be careful when moving the handle or inserting the cleaning wand to prevent accidental sprays.
CLEANING WAND (SIDE VIEW)

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CLEANING WAND (FRONT VIEW)

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All fluid tubes and control wiring is contained in the flexible black tube connecting the wand to the main unit. Having a single connection tube to the tank makes it easy to operate.
Cleaning fluid is supplied by a smaller “high pressure” tube attached to the wand head with a barb connection. Fluid is drained through a larger tube that is secured to the wand head to prevent leakage. Since the input and output tubes are thin and flexible, they do not bind within the main black tube or make it easy to bend.
WAND HEAD CONNECTIONS

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By using these standard connectors it is possible to replace the wand head alone if it gets damaged. So if they come out with a new design, or some adventurous doll owner wants to make a custom wand head on their 3D printer it can easily be updated.

The wand head as shipped can be made to work with a variety of dolls in both opening. It can be made to seal well in most cases, but there are things you can add to make it better.
I will cover those in part 3.

Drying Unit
The drying unit offers a real benefit. It sends a high volume of temperature controlled warm air into the cavity and also helps it escape, quickly and safely drying the internal parts. The drying unit was designed specifically to dry sex doll parts, where an aquarium pump was designed just to pump in enough air to a keep fish alive. Those two things are significantly different.
DRYING UNIT

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Looking down the throat of the drying unit shows how it works. Hot air is blown from the center section deep into the cavity where it evaporates the remaining water. The open vents on the perimeter of the drying unit allow the warm vapor to escape. Then it is just an automatic cycle of dry air in, moist air out, and repeat until dry.
DRYING UNIT THROAT

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The drying unit delivers air at about 40C (104F), warm enough to dry but not hot enough to harm TPE if used for an extended period. Heat is supplied by a heating wire that wrapped around a column attached to the fan assembly. The three wires shown in the image below are routed back to the orange wrapped controller module inside the unit tank. It looks like a hot line, ground line and temperature feedback line. That would be reasonable to keep a set temperature and work with common off the shelf controller chips.
DRYING CONTROLLER

(12)_Drying_Controller.jpg (939.88 KiB) Viewed 141 times

The back of the drying unit has a safety cover to keep fingers and other stuff from the fan blades. You can see the fan blades under the safety cover.
DRYING UNIT BACK COVER

(13)_Drying_Unit Back.jpg (360.7 KiB) Viewed 141 times

Removing the safety cover shows the fan blades. They look like and act like stainless steel, since they are non-magnetic. This material will easily deal with any residual heat remaining when the unit is shut down and cools. A cheaper plastic fan MIGHT have worked, but would probably been close to its heat tolerance. The fan used was a good choice.

The fan also looks like a ducted vortex fan or "turbofan". There are angled blades after the fan that effectively “spin” the air before it hits the heating coil and then into the doll. This turbulent flow greatly increases heat pickup from the coils and improve drying of the doll internals.
DRYING UNIT FAN

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There were some questions about the drying unit being too big for openings. In this case you WANT it big. For it to work it has to make an airtight seal in the opening. Sex doll openings are supposed to be a bit pliant and able to accept items. The actual circumference (or girth) does not greatly exceed other certain appendages. I have used it with dolls with known softer TPE blends (such as Pipers) and have not encountered damages. If you are really worried about insertion damage, then a little bit of baby oil can help insertion. But if a certain tool fits into the opening you are cleaning, then the drying tool will also fit.

The only thing to watch is to not insert it too far; the rear opening needs to be open to expel air. There is a line on the drying tool that they call a safety line, don’t push it in past that.

During drying you can hand hold the unit or it may stay in place itself, based on the doll. Adjusting the legs a bit can help hold it in, as is rigging up a prop to hold it.

[ Next – Areas to enhance and tips for use ]

Cheers!
...W...