Zelex skeleton repair

Uniflux74 · Post by **Uniflux74** » Wed Oct 11, 2023 10:13 pm

I recently got the courage to cut open my zelex 165 silicone yvonne to inspect skeleton damage. It seems the weld broke on the elbow joint on her top left leg. On my doll the skeleton frame is only about 3mm thick diameter metal. I purchased her on November of 2022 and must have gotten an old skeleton design as she is definitely a zelex doll and not a knockoff. Unfortunately UPS did a good job when transporting and did alot of damage, just did not catch interior damage in time for claim.
Has anyone repaired something like this. I am thinking off using a galvanized steel elbow and steel pipe to reinforce this substandard skeleton. I am not sure if the silicone will react or discolor if I use galvanized steel, or perhaps white PVC pipes might work better, not as strong but will probably not be reactive to silicone.
Any advice would be helpfull, she is a beautifull girl and deserves the effort. Will post pics of repair sequence when allowed. Still a newish member.

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Wed Oct 11, 2023 10:55 pm

Stainless steel is preferable but Galvanized should be ok with Silicone
Gal is affected by acid, as far as I know there's nothing in Silicone that is acidic, otherwise you would suffer structural damage when interacting with the material

Uniflux74 · Post by **Uniflux74** » Thu Oct 12, 2023 11:22 am

Thanks, will start to make my plan for repairs. They REALLY need to package these dolls better. UPS and Fedex should be renamed GORILLA SHIPPERS. LOL

RevJack · Post by **RevJack** » Thu Oct 12, 2023 12:13 pm

If you would provide a few pictures of the break, we could provide much better advice on the best ways to fix it.
For instance it is unclear exactly what metal broke and how the proposed fix would effect the knee joint.

Reverend Jack

Uniflux74 · Post by **Uniflux74** » Thu Oct 12, 2023 5:41 pm

Thank you for the replies, am taking pics and will post when able. The only way for now to describe it is the main support that the legs and torso are attached to. Looks like an upside down u. The weld broke on the left leg side where the 90 degree joint is.I'm thinking of trying a 90 elbow fitting, just need to get my caliper for proper pipe size and alot of JB weld. Still learning.

RevJack · Post by **RevJack** » Thu Oct 12, 2023 7:53 pm

Oh shit, you broke her PELVIS?
That makes the "galvanized elbow" comment make more sense. Now we really need to see the location and nature of the break. There have been lots of pelvis/hip breaks, and an amazing number of failed repairs due to inexperience and assumptions.
Let's have some more info, some imagesor at least drawings.
In the meantime... Search for "Bubbles broken hip at Reverend Jack's" I'll try to post the link.
viewtopic.php?t=154571

Reverend Jack

elarring · Post by **elarring** » Mon Nov 06, 2023 11:54 am

I'm attempting my own repair, but ran into a problem. I have a wm174G just over a year old and a weld broke at the waist. I was going to attempt a cold weld repair, but the way it broke makes me think it wasn't welded properly and I don't think it would work without a rebuild. This might be outside of my skill set, meaning, i will do more damage than I can repair. I've been brainstorming working a 90 degree brace for the inside. Because I don't think that will hold if i try drilling. The metal seems very thin. What do you guys think?

RevJack · Post by **RevJack** » Mon Nov 06, 2023 12:08 pm

Drilling is not a great idea. The stainless tubes are thin. I'm having trouble locating the exact location of your break. You say spine, but your picture says pelvis/hip.
It does matter, since the tortional forces are different in different locations.
So, where is that break (a crayon drawing or a body picture with an arrow would be super helpful)

Reverend Jack

elarring · Post by **elarring** » Mon Nov 06, 2023 1:04 pm

The break is at the L of the hip, just after it T's from the spine. As you can see that's an angle and it wasn't a smooth break.

Deadman 9000 · Post by **Deadman 9000** » Mon Nov 06, 2023 1:18 pm

some people take out the entire broken parts and peel off the TPE to have easier time to work on it.
you could buy leather protective straps and put it under the metal and use a grinder to make a clean cut.
welding is not advisable because of the heat transfer that will melt the surrounding TPE
could replace the other parts where things are bolted in/welded?
You could replace those parts or use a clamp with screws but since it's the pelvis, it would probably come off
personnaly i would take a metal of lesser diameter but stronger and put it in there after cleaning the cut and cold weld it with jb Cold weld metal stuff.
by the way, the parts that break most often in all dolls are the hips, the elbow, the lower back.
stuff like this is why i'm making my own doll. the metal used in the industry is super shoddy and break too often

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Mon Nov 06, 2023 2:37 pm

zelex 165 silicone yvonne

RevJack · Post by **RevJack** » Mon Nov 06, 2023 3:27 pm

elarring wrote: ↑Mon Nov 06, 2023 1:04 pm The break is at the L of the hip, just after it T's from the spine. As you can see that's an angle and it wasn't a smooth break.

OK, gotcha.
Realistically, you need to pick the level of repair you are willing/able to perform.

The best solution would be to pull the pelvis, weld it, and put it back. It is stainless steel and requires stainless specific Flux core or gas to weld. Plus this requires 3 additional incisions to the doll, one for each hip bolt and one for the spine bolt. It's quite the drama.

If that isn't an option, then we are looking at re-attaching and reinforcing the joint from the existing incision.

One method is as Deadman mentioned, find a solid rod that will fit into the existing pipes, bend it to the correct angle, insert it into the existing pipes and secure it. You must have or make a pipe bending jig, and be able to heat the rod. I have not seen this accomplished by anyone without a machine shop.

The more available option is to encase the break in a 90 degree metal "cast". That can be an elbow that the broken pipe slides into, or what some folks have done is slice that elbow in half so the broken pipe can be "sandwiched" between the two halves.

So what do you want to take on? We will be able to help you with experience whichever you choose.

Reverend Jack

elarring · Post by **elarring** » Mon Nov 06, 2023 4:07 pm

RevJack wrote: ↑Mon Nov 06, 2023 3:27 pm
The more available option is to encase the break in a 90 degree metal "cast". That can be an elbow that the broken pipe slides into, or what some folks have done is slice that elbow in half so the broken pipe can be "sandwiched" between the two halves.

I hadn't considered this option, have you done it with these skeletons before? It's so thin, I wonder if the cast elbow would work.

I was thinking of going with a high strength insert, building one using pipes. And considering some high strength plastic.

elarring · Post by **elarring** » Mon Nov 06, 2023 4:15 pm

This is what I was thinking, because it's fairly strong for PVC. I inch is just a bit too big to fit inside so I was going to go with 3/4

Spears 1406 Series PVC Tube Fitting, 90 Degree Elbow, Schedule 40, Gray, 3/4" Barbed

I've ordered it, just to size it alone and might go with a stainless steel elbow if I feel the fit is right.

Starquake · Post by **Starquake** » Mon Nov 06, 2023 6:07 pm

When my 1st doll (cheap chinese) broke like that

I did as Deadman described and tidied up the rough edges of the break, bent some lengths of metal rod into L shapes, put them inside the hip tubing, filled with epoxy, and taped it up .... which has worked well imo