Allow me to (re)introduce myself and Troy

[DG]

Yeah, I had a time replacing the broken PVC in Colt's back. He's also a Gabriel doll. But I am just very careful with him now. If you want me to PM some advice on how to fix it, I can do that, just let me know.

[sactojoe]

Yeah, I had a time replacing the broken PVC in Colt's back. He's also a Gabriel doll. But I am just very careful with him now. If you want me to PM some advice on how to fix it, I can do that, just let me know.

Thanks DG! I tried reaching out to Matt/Bronwen a few times when it happened, but I never heard back. Any ideas for a good repair would be welcome. I opened up the thigh seams and made an incision along his spine in his mid back to access everything. I used PVC glue to join things back together, but that didn't work at all! I'll reach out through PM when I get him back upstairs.

BTW, I don't think I've seen your Gabriel yet, but I know he's handsome!

[sactojoe]

OMG!! He is amazing!!! Your 3D printer is off the chain!!! So question. Could you print this model larger if you printed him in parts?
Your blue willey in a tea jar made me laugh..

So would you be willing to show us what you are talking about with the mini sex machine? I am trying to figure out what you mean by that from the picture you posted..

Can you use metal filament with either of your printers. I think I have figured out how to make articulated hand skeletons that are stronger and have more realistic movement, by creating a series of adjustable ball/socket for each finger joint section and the hand palms their self and wrist.

Thank you so much! This weekend I plan on printing him out at a finer resolution. This print and molding him in silicone is basically a test to work out the process. Even though he is small I think I can get his features to show up more. I am switching out my nozzle for a smaller one so I can get a cleaner print.

The ultimate goal is to print a full size guy out of parts that are joined together. I am using two smaller model sizes as learning tools to figure everything out. The 18" print is at 1/4 scale and made out of 2-3 printed parts (front and back with a separate one for his dong). The next size is 1/2 scale at around 36" tall. It will need around 11 parts (head, l/r chest, l/r arms, hip, l/r legs, l/r feet, and his dong!) Even this size will be quite an investment in time and materials, but it should show me all the issues that I will have at full size. I can also start working on ideas for the skeleton and weight reduction. Doing it this way I can plan ahead and not make as many mistakes later when it is really expensive. Hopefully!

The full size print will have around 17 printed parts and each part should take at least 12 hours each. At that point I will be making a mold that is 6' tall which adds issues with weight and manageability. 18" and 36" sizes are great for now!

Here is an example of what can be done on my printer. It was printed in 7 pieces and I'm assuming it took several days. It's really amazing what you can get these cheap printers to do with the right calibration!

PrintPorn.gif (874.79 KiB) Viewed 568 times

The Blue pic is kinda funny. It was the middle of the night and I was looking all over the house for a container for the alcohol vapor and finally found one! Here is the print after sitting in the vapor for an hour. It turned out pretty good and I didn't have to sand at all!

IMG20220602074737.jpg (1.7 MiB) Viewed 568 times

I always wondered what they had under their costumes!

https://static.tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pub/ ... _u6040.png

Metal? There are a lot of advanced materials for this kind of printer, but I don't know of any that can print metal. Mine takes rolls of plastic and melts them into a shape. For metal printing they lay thin layers of metal dust down and a laser melts each one the add up to the final print. It's pretty advanced. I would guess those machines would start around $50k!

What idea did you have for it? For strong parts some printers can print filament with carbon fiber in it. Strong and lightweight!

[Sam40]

I think we should open a post called the"DIY Muscled male dolls" and talk about our projects...
Yesterday I saw Smitizen is about to launch feet masks. The ones I bought for Jake come from AliExpress, but I would be interested to see what Smitizen will offer in order to create a second doll. The factor to check is how much will they cost...
The ones I got from AliExpress were 150 euros, and still I spent 20 more on buying nails and glue to incorporate them to feet and hands.
His nails are cuter than mine...I must say

It might make sense to start a doll build thread in Inventor's Corner, but since I have been back on the forum I haven't branched out too much. Male Dolls is where the cool kids are!

Also I tried out the mini-sex machine today in a new way and I must say it really worked! The pose is where he is sitting up with his legs to each side and I am laying down. Kinda like Wheelbarrow:

arthadesignstudio210600120.jpg

It is so nice to have one less thing to focus on and not have to work so friggin hard! It let me enjoy being with him more. As we settled in I could lean him forward and look in to his eyes. Super nice!

I think this machine would work for most dolls since it is strapped to the outside of his body. I put two speedos on Wade and I put the motor part sandwiched between them and between his legs. The dildo pulling the outer speedo's waistband down as much as it needs to. For stability I put the motor in a holder too, but that's optional.

Hello there! I'm in process of moving to another house....my guy is very well storaged...so well we will see how that goes in 3 weeks....
Love your Gabriel! He is really cute! How many cuties u have at home? Don't they get jealous between them?

I get that part about the machine, it would be nice for me also just to lie and receive...it is work...and when u are at night and u want more banging....mmm yes it is work, but nice...unfortunstely the machine I have makes a lot of noise and wouldnt hold the whole weight of my Hankey's XL atlas dildo...too beefy..lol... But...he in top of me...and when I look into his eyes is everything!!!! So I get u man!
Does Troy have a skeleton? How can he hold that position of the picture?
I was thinking about building a second doll, but I'm kind thinking instead remaking Jake's body and giving him a proper skeleton, cause it would be hot to see my love standing, make love standing, proper doggy and that position in your pic. I still can have many positions with him without a proper skeleton and he is easy to storage, but down side would be remake his hot body, he has such a great body shape and firmness I wouldnt like him to loose. Lot to think about...
But hey building the man or woman of yours dreams is possible and it would be great to open a official DIY your doll forum...
Maybe Jake gets the new Smitizen feet then he will be a full Smitizen doll...I will send Smitizen a picture of him soon...they should see all the possibilities their suits bring...
Pdta got answer from Smitizen, they loved his pics, and might be considering building muscle dolls...uju!

[sactojoe]

Hello there! I'm in process of moving to another house....my guy is very well storaged...so well we will see how that goes in 3 weeks....
Love your Gabriel! He is really cute! How many cuties u have at home? Don't they get jealous between them?

I get that part about the machine, it would be nice for me also just to lie and receive...it is work...and when u are at night and u want more banging....mmm yes it is work, but nice...unfortunstely the machine I have makes a lot of noise and wouldnt hold the whole weight of my Hankey's XL atlas dildo...too beefy..lol... But...he in top of me...and when I look into his eyes is everything!!!! So I get u man!
Does Troy have a skeleton? How can he hold that position of the picture?
I was thinking about building a second doll, but I'm kind thinking instead remaking Jake's body and giving him a proper skeleton, cause it would be hot to see my love standing, make love standing, proper doggy and that position in your pic. I still can have many positions with him without a proper skeleton and he is easy to storage, but down side would be remake his hot body, he has such a great body shape and firmness I wouldnt like him to loose. Lot to think about...
But hey building the man or woman of yours dreams is possible and it would be great to open a official DIY your doll forum...
Maybe Jake gets the new Smitizen feet then he will be a full Smitizen doll...I will send Smitizen a picture of him soon...they should see all the possibilities their suits bring...
Pdta got answer from Smitizen, they loved his pics, and might be considering building muscle dolls...uju!

Good luck on your move! Moving is always a pain. I hope Jake isn't getting lonely waiting for your new home.

Gabriel was my first doll from waaay back. Newer additions are Troy made from the enhanced muscle suit from Smitizen and Wade who is made form a fabric muscle suit over a foam mannequin that I already had. They each have their own charm and they seem to get along well. It is really cool to lay in bed with one on each side of me. Muscle heaven!

An Atlas? That is a big boy! That would be hard for most sex machines to handle. I don't think the mini sex machine I use would work for you. For this I use one of my dildos that is longer, but not as girthy. I'll post some pics of my setup. I have admired Mr Hankeys toys, but haven't bought one yet. I have a few from Bad Dragon and they are pretty fun! All this talk of dildos has inspired me to print up a few designs. I should be casting them in silicone this week!

I made Troy a skeleton out of wood dowels and eye bolts. It is sturdy, but the joints do not hold their shape. To have him stand I would add a neck bolt to hang him near a wall. I am planning to rework his skeleton and the foam muscles under the suit, but I haven't started that project yet.

That's amazing that Smitizen is considering building a doll. I know they would do a great job! I can't wait to see what they come up with next.

[sactojoe]

Hi Muesky! Here are a few pics of how I am using a sex machine together with my doll. It's all a bit thrown together but I really enjoyed it!

Wade is super light since he is just fabric and foam. First I assemble my parts:

IMG20220604152503.jpg (3.2 MiB) Viewed 521 times

Then I put the machine inside a "holder"

IMG20220604152703.jpg (2.43 MiB) Viewed 521 times

Insert the machine between layers of speedos

IMG20220604152745.jpg (2.97 MiB) Viewed 521 times

Then prop him up in a sitting position. Then I lay in front of him with my legs around his waist

IMG20220604152836.jpg (1.74 MiB) Viewed 521 times

Relaxed!

IMG20220604153133.jpg (2.45 MiB) Viewed 521 times

[DG]

That is a really awesome idea!

[muesky6969]

Hi Muesky! Here are a few pics of how I am using a sex machine together with my doll. It's all a bit thrown together but I really enjoyed it!

Wade is super light since he is just fabric and foam. First I assemble my parts:

IMG20220604152503.jpg

Then I put the machine inside a "holder"

IMG20220604152703.jpg

Insert the machine between layers of speedos

IMG20220604152745.jpg

Then prop him up in a sitting position. Then I lay in front of him with my legs around his waist

IMG20220604152836.jpg

Relaxed!

IMG20220604153133.jpg

The shoe made me giggle!!! Would you mind sharing where you got this lovely machine.. I am sure I am not the only one who is interested in such a wonderful device..

Okay, so I just got back from the welder/fabricator. They are going to weld the parts from a 170cm and 148cm doll together for me.. I just need to get the suit back on the table so I can lay out the skeleton pieces and make sure I have the right size. If I decide to build another one of these I am probably going to order a skeleton made by WM..

Waiting for a call back from Brick in the Yard, they seem to have the best prices and supplies in liquid silicone. The plan is use the silicone hands and feet I bought to make molds. Once the skeleton has been put together and the articulated skeleton hands get in I am going to mold the hands and feet directly onto the skeleton just like they do in the factory, just much smaller scale.

I did have a thought I wanted to run by everyone.. If you want I can make molds of the hands and feet if you want to do the same thing to your dolls. If I can get the motivation I will take pictures of the ones I have.. The hands a big manly hands and the feet are size 11 and have really nice detail. So they should make good molds. I accidently bought a lot of plaster wrap to make the supportive shells for the molds. Enough to make about 4-5 complete sets. The plan is paint the molding silicone to the hands and feet. Then before removing the mold, make the supportive casing with the plaster wrap, so the mold holds it shape while casting.. Haven't had a chance to break down how much it will cost but it would be cheaper then everyone having to buy hands and feet that matches their doll's color..

[sactojoe]

That is a really awesome idea!

Thanks! It's been a really nice way to bond with Wade

[sactojoe]

Hi Muesky!

I knew the shoe would get a response!

I almost didn't want to mention it because it is so silly, but it actually works really well for what it is supposed to do. I had read about guys using a shoe to hold their fleshlight and the machine is about the same size. Here is a link to the product on their website:

https://www.hismith.com/en/sex-machines ... ystem.html

When I bought mine there was a discount for $70 off. I'm not sure if it's still good: hismith18

They use their proprietary connector to attach dildos which annoys me to no end. So I immediately made a work around! If any of you guys get one I'll show you what I did. It's super easy!

That's cool that you can repurpose the old skeleton. No need to reinvent the wheel!

I remember BITY! I used to watch their youtube videos all the time. Really good stuff! I think I got some Monster Clay from them.

Pricing silicone can be tricky. I have seen sellers sell 1 gallon kits, but it is two 1/2 gallon jugs for a total of 8lbs of material for $150. I use ReynoldsAM.com and their pricing is pretty standard for Smooth-on about $250 for a 1 Gallon - 16lb kit. Another supplier I've looked at is BJB. Here is a Shore 5A kit for $193:

https://bjbmaterials.com/silicones/plat ... c-5110-a-b

Sometimes you can find better prices at oddball suppliers. I remember seeing good pricing at website for fishing lures of all things!

That is really cool about the hand/feet casting project. I would recommend getting a translucent silicone and adding color to it. I've had the best luck with adding mineral makeup to the silicone before mixing.

I made a quick mold of the Blue dildo out of alginate and then did a test cast cast in silicone to refresh my memory of the process:

IMG20220602125838.jpg (1.89 MiB) Viewed 461 times

IMG20220602131120.jpg (3.06 MiB) Viewed 461 times

IMG20220602153002.jpg (3.44 MiB) Viewed 461 times

Btw, here is a scale showing the relative softness of sex toys on the different "Shore" scales:

DUROMETER-single.jpg (116.2 KiB) Viewed 461 times

I have printed out a few hands/feet on my printer and the quality is getting really good. It's such a relief! Now my prints are clean enough that I don't have to sand them before I spray a solvent on them to smooth out the layer lines. The original idea has been to print out copies of what I want to mold then make a cast of it. Now that my prints are good I am testing out printing the mold for the silicone finished instead of printing the item itself. If it works it will cut out a few layers of the process. Fingers crossed!

[muesky6969]

Hi Muesky!

I knew the shoe would get a response!

I almost didn't want to mention it because it is so silly, but it actually works really well for what it is supposed to do. I had read about guys using a shoe to hold their fleshlight and the machine is about the same size. Here is a link to the product on their website:

https://www.hismith.com/en/sex-machines ... ystem.html

When I bought mine there was a discount for $70 off. I'm not sure if it's still good: hismith18

They use their proprietary connector to attach dildos which annoys me to no end. So I immediately made a work around! If any of you guys get one I'll show you what I did. It's super easy!

That's cool that you can repurpose the old skeleton. No need to reinvent the wheel!

I remember BITY! I used to watch their youtube videos all the time. Really good stuff! I think I got some Monster Clay from them.

Pricing silicone can be tricky. I have seen sellers sell 1 gallon kits, but it is two 1/2 gallon jugs for a total of 8lbs of material for $150. I use ReynoldsAM.com and their pricing is pretty standard for Smooth-on about $250 for a 1 Gallon - 16lb kit. Another supplier I've looked at is BJB. Here is a Shore 5A kit for $193:

https://bjbmaterials.com/silicones/plat ... c-5110-a-b

Sometimes you can find better prices at oddball suppliers. I remember seeing good pricing at website for fishing lures of all things!

That is really cool about the hand/feet casting project. I would recommend getting a translucent silicone and adding color to it. I've had the best luck with adding mineral makeup to the silicone before mixing.

I made a quick mold of the Blue dildo out of alginate and then did a test cast cast in silicone to refresh my memory of the process:

IMG20220602125838.jpg
IMG20220602131120.jpg
IMG20220602153002.jpg

Btw, here is a scale showing the relative softness of sex toys on the different "Shore" scales:

DUROMETER-single.jpg


I have printed out a few hands/feet on my printer and the quality is getting really good. It's such a relief! Now my prints are clean enough that I don't have to sand them before I spray a solvent on them to smooth out the layer lines. The original idea has been to print out copies of what I want to mold then make a cast of it. Now that my prints are good I am testing out printing the mold for the silicone finished instead of printing the item itself. If it works it will cut out a few layers of the process. Fingers crossed!

Hey Sactojoe!
My motto is whatever works!! And it appears the shoe works.. I am going to look into the "love" machine when I get further along in the project. The more I see what you are able to make with your 3D printer the more I want one...

So I talked to Smooth-on today.. I am going to be ordering some stuff from them and some from another vendor to cuts costs. The vendor recommended buying several of the trial kits to see which one has the softness I want. They also sell pigment (Silk Pig is what it is called) that is made just for silicone and it is pretty cheap.


Thanks for the heads up on getting the clear silicone. That makes sense, especially since I am going to be making the hands and feet in true black..

Thinking to the future and the possibility of building another doll, I am going to go about it a bit differently.. First off the stuffed dummy I bought from Amazon totally isn't going to work, so that was a waste of $80. (If anyone is interested in it. It is better just to buy foam and carve it into the body shape around the metal skeleton, then stuff all that in a spandex body suit.. This will then be stuffed into the silicone suit..

So here is the plus side of actually having the skeleton welded together.. All the lengths of the various skeleton pipe has been cut to specifically fit to that suit.. So the elbows and knees are in the correct placement.. The other bonus is I have more flexibility on how tall the doll is.. So I am going to go for the gusto and this doll is going to be 6' 2-3" tall..

Yesterday I was at Walmart and they sell fat foam pool noodles. I bought a few because I am going to use the foam noodles on the skeleton itself as fill ins and cut the weight down by about 5-10lbs.. The end goal is that this doll only weight about 70lbs without head. He has a big old head, that is for sure..LOL The suit is about 30lbs, the skeleton 15lbs, the hands and feet 12-15lbs, foam and spandex 10lbs. For a 6' 2" doll that is very light..

[sactojoe]

Hey Sactojoe!
My motto is whatever works!! And it appears the shoe works.. I am going to look into the "love" machine when I get further along in the project. The more I see what you are able to make with your 3D printer the more I want one...

So I talked to Smooth-on today.. I am going to be ordering some stuff from them and some from another vendor to cuts costs. The vendor recommended buying several of the trial kits to see which one has the softness I want. They also sell pigment (Silk Pig is what it is called) that is made just for silicone and it is pretty cheap.


Thanks for the heads up on getting the clear silicone. That makes sense, especially since I am going to be making the hands and feet in true black..

Thinking to the future and the possibility of building another doll, I am going to go about it a bit differently.. First off the stuffed dummy I bought from Amazon totally isn't going to work, so that was a waste of $80. (If anyone is interested in it. It is better just to buy foam and carve it into the body shape around the metal skeleton, then stuff all that in a spandex body suit.. This will then be stuffed into the silicone suit..

So here is the plus side of actually having the skeleton welded together.. All the lengths of the various skeleton pipe has been cut to specifically fit to that suit.. So the elbows and knees are in the correct placement.. The other bonus is I have more flexibility on how tall the doll is.. So I am going to go for the gusto and this doll is going to be 6' 2-3" tall..

Yesterday I was at Walmart and they sell fat foam pool noodles. I bought a few because I am going to use the foam noodles on the skeleton itself as fill ins and cut the weight down by about 5-10lbs.. The end goal is that this doll only weight about 70lbs without head. He has a big old head, that is for sure..LOL The suit is about 30lbs, the skeleton 15lbs, the hands and feet 12-15lbs, foam and spandex 10lbs. For a 6' 2" doll that is very light..

The 3d printer has been a game changer for me! There is a steep learning curve with a lot of different programs that you have to master. I have been tinkering around with different things over the years and now all of this is becoming useful to actually DO something!

My test with trying to print a mold to cast silicone in worked really well! Taking an original and casting it in urethane or silicone adds time and expense. It's really cool to just print out the mold and start casting in it. I printed the mold from the same model as the Blue dildo and the dildo came out great! I didn't have to mess with polyurethane and all the waste of doing a block mold. The molds I'm making are pretty flimsy, but they are good for doing a few casts. If I want a sturdier mold I can print it with thicker walls or go back and make a regular mold.

IMG20220607143253.jpg (3.31 MiB) Viewed 425 times

IMG20220607162319.jpg (3.72 MiB) Viewed 425 times

The results could have been a little cleaner, but for a first try it's pretty good. Next time I will wait the ENTIRE time before demold and get my vacuum chamber out of storage to minimize air bubbles.

That's really cool about the silicone sourcing. Currently I am working through my old tub of Eco20 from years ago. I'm so glad it still sets up! It is a little soft for toys, but the more pliable mix makes demolding a breeze. I don't know if they still do this, but silicone suppliers would send out cured samples of their materials. It's good to see just how firm it is or if it has an odd color or smell.

Silcpig is a great choice for you since you are going for pure black. You could also try activated charcoal to get it as black as you want! That stuff is super cheap!

I have some silcpig on order, but they don't have that many colors and none are really close to skin tones. I don't want to mak silicone trying to get a good match. It'll be fun to try out though! I think the brown, blue, green and red will be good to thin way down and use it to paint details like veins, freckles and blushing. I like the powder makeup since it starts out natural looking and you can fine tune it from there. I also add a bit of the makeup powder to cornstarch if I want to knock down the shine too. I've also tried out adding colored flocking to the silicone, but so far the results have been too subtle to notice.

I like your idea of doing the custom skeleton that is sized to the muscle suit. It's hard to get everything to look right if it doesn't line up. I would love to have a bare skeleton so I can see how each part works (or doesn't!) I'm still trying out different ideas for how the joints works, but there isn't a clear winner yet.

Pool noodles have worked great for Troy so far. I used the skinny ones for his forearms and ankles. The regular ones for most other places and the 5" are perfect for his neck and thighs. After that I added halves of foam footballs to fill out his muscles. I like how squishy they are, but I went overboard with duct tape and he is a little more firm than I was hoping.

Foam dolls are the way to go if you want a tall/muscled guy. Troy is around 5'10 and Wade is 6'2 and they are not hard to move at all. You can totally reach your goal weight!

[muesky6969]

The 3d printer has been a game changer for me! There is a steep learning curve with a lot of different programs that you have to master. I have been tinkering around with different things over the years and now all of this is becoming useful to actually DO something!

My test with trying to print a mold to cast silicone in worked really well! Taking an original and casting it in urethane or silicone adds time and expense. It's really cool to just print out the mold and start casting in it. I printed the mold from the same model as the Blue dildo and the dildo came out great! I didn't have to mess with polyurethane and all the waste of doing a block mold. The molds I'm making are pretty flimsy, but they are good for doing a few casts. If I want a sturdier mold I can print it with thicker walls or go back and make a regular mold.

IMG20220607143253.jpg
IMG20220607162319.jpg

The results could have been a little cleaner, but for a first try it's pretty good. Next time I will wait the ENTIRE time before demold and get my vacuum chamber out of storage to minimize air bubbles.

That's really cool about the silicone sourcing. Currently I am working through my old tub of Eco20 from years ago. I'm so glad it still sets up! It is a little soft for toys, but the more pliable mix makes demolding a breeze. I don't know if they still do this, but silicone suppliers would send out cured samples of their materials. It's good to see just how firm it is or if it has an odd color or smell.

Silcpig is a great choice for you since you are going for pure black. You could also try activated charcoal to get it as black as you want! That stuff is super cheap!

I have some silcpig on order, but they don't have that many colors and none are really close to skin tones. I don't want to mak silicone trying to get a good match. It'll be fun to try out though! I think the brown, blue, green and red will be good to thin way down and use it to paint details like veins, freckles and blushing. I like the powder makeup since it starts out natural looking and you can fine tune it from there. I also add a bit of the makeup powder to cornstarch if I want to knock down the shine too. I've also tried out adding colored flocking to the silicone, but so far the results have been too subtle to notice.

I like your idea of doing the custom skeleton that is sized to the muscle suit. It's hard to get everything to look right if it doesn't line up. I would love to have a bare skeleton so I can see how each part works (or doesn't!) I'm still trying out different ideas for how the joints works, but there isn't a clear winner yet.

Pool noodles have worked great for Troy so far. I used the skinny ones for his forearms and ankles. The regular ones for most other places and the 5" are perfect for his neck and thighs. After that I added halves of foam footballs to fill out his muscles. I like how squishy they are, but I went overboard with duct tape and he is a little more firm than I was hoping.

Foam dolls are the way to go if you want a tall/muscled guy. Troy is around 5'10 and Wade is 6'2 and they are not hard to move at all. You can totally reach your goal weight!

I am absolutely jealous of your 3D printer.. It is on the list of things I learn how to use and get. The university I graduated from has 3D printers they let students and alumni use, and so does the library in town. I just can't be printing out penises.. LOL!

So I have a suggestion about the mold you printer that will help you with stabilizing it.. Plaster wrap!! I didn't come up with this idea. Smooth-on's website has a lot of short tutorial videos and one of them is how to do life casting. I bought like twelve 3" rolls that are 5yds long for like $32, and I totally do not need as much as I got. Who knows maybe I will make a cast of one of my dolls and start molding my own dolls. Anyway plaster wrap will give the mold support..

The penises you are molding are awesome! That is exactly the style I would chose as well.

Not sure if you are aware that I take in damaged and unwanted dolls. I have three coming in this week, and a couple of more I need to set up shipping for.. Early this week I deboned a 170cm doll and a few weeks ago I deboned a 148cm doll. Monday, spoke with a welding shop and they are going to weld parts of the two skeletons $225. Fortunately the whole lower part of the 170cm fits perfectly with the body suit. The suck part it doesn't have shrugging shoulders and I want that, so that is coming from the 148cm doll. Of course the shoulders have to be widened so I will use tubing from the 170cm doll.. It is piecing them together. If you want I can send you pictures of the skeletons I have, so you can get an idea on how they work. The design is basic and could be so much more improved.. And all doll skeletons are basically the same.

My plan for the foam skeleton is I bought the foam noodles just to bulk up the skeleton without adding much weight. Then I am also purchased seat cushion foam to add the additional bulk to the frame and make the doll look even more muscular. I didn't buy the more muscular 2 piece set I went with the onesie (hehehe!), but all the foam and skeleton is going to be put into a spandex suit, so I can make sure I have the muscles in the right place, etc. then I will powder the hell out of it and slide it into the silicone suit. Having the skeleton to give resistance will hopefully make it easier to get everything into the suit..

So I am getting several kits of the liquid silicone to see which one is going to work best for molding the hands and feet.. I was looking at iron oxide to help get to the solid black color (the vendor I spoke with said that it is hard to get true black) but I totally did not think about activated charcoal.. Have you used this for dying silicone? The concern about the iron oxide is that it might effect the silicone setting up..

I am just so dang excited about this project and really need the boost of serotonin from having created my own doll, that won't kill me to move him around.

[muesky6969]

The 3d printer has been a game changer for me! There is a steep learning curve with a lot of different programs that you have to master. I have been tinkering around with different things over the years and now all of this is becoming useful to actually DO something!

My test with trying to print a mold to cast silicone in worked really well! Taking an original and casting it in urethane or silicone adds time and expense. It's really cool to just print out the mold and start casting in it. I printed the mold from the same model as the Blue dildo and the dildo came out great! I didn't have to mess with polyurethane and all the waste of doing a block mold. The molds I'm making are pretty flimsy, but they are good for doing a few casts. If I want a sturdier mold I can print it with thicker walls or go back and make a regular mold.

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The results could have been a little cleaner, but for a first try it's pretty good. Next time I will wait the ENTIRE time before demold and get my vacuum chamber out of storage to minimize air bubbles.

That's really cool about the silicone sourcing. Currently I am working through my old tub of Eco20 from years ago. I'm so glad it still sets up! It is a little soft for toys, but the more pliable mix makes demolding a breeze. I don't know if they still do this, but silicone suppliers would send out cured samples of their materials. It's good to see just how firm it is or if it has an odd color or smell.

Silcpig is a great choice for you since you are going for pure black. You could also try activated charcoal to get it as black as you want! That stuff is super cheap!

I have some silcpig on order, but they don't have that many colors and none are really close to skin tones. I don't want to mak silicone trying to get a good match. It'll be fun to try out though! I think the brown, blue, green and red will be good to thin way down and use it to paint details like veins, freckles and blushing. I like the powder makeup since it starts out natural looking and you can fine tune it from there. I also add a bit of the makeup powder to cornstarch if I want to knock down the shine too. I've also tried out adding colored flocking to the silicone, but so far the results have been too subtle to notice.

I like your idea of doing the custom skeleton that is sized to the muscle suit. It's hard to get everything to look right if it doesn't line up. I would love to have a bare skeleton so I can see how each part works (or doesn't!) I'm still trying out different ideas for how the joints works, but there isn't a clear winner yet.

Pool noodles have worked great for Troy so far. I used the skinny ones for his forearms and ankles. The regular ones for most other places and the 5" are perfect for his neck and thighs. After that I added halves of foam footballs to fill out his muscles. I like how squishy they are, but I went overboard with duct tape and he is a little more firm than I was hoping.

Foam dolls are the way to go if you want a tall/muscled guy. Troy is around 5'10 and Wade is 6'2 and they are not hard to move at all. You can totally reach your goal weight!

I am absolutely jealous of your 3D printer.. It is on the list of things I learn how to use and get. The university I graduated from has 3D printers they let students and alumni use, and so does the library in town. I just can't be printing out penises.. LOL!

So I have a suggestion about the mold you printer that will help you with stabilizing it.. Plaster wrap!! I didn't come up with this idea. Smooth-on's website has a lot of short tutorial videos and one of them is how to do life casting. I bought like twelve 3" rolls that are 5yds long for like $32, and I totally do not need as much as I got. Who knows maybe I will make a cast of one of my dolls and start molding my own dolls. Anyway plaster wrap will give the mold support..

The penises you are molding are awesome! That is exactly the style I would chose as well.

Not sure if you are aware that I take in damaged and unwanted dolls. I have three coming in this week, and a couple of more I need to set up shipping for.. Early this week I deboned a 170cm doll and a few weeks ago I deboned a 148cm doll. Monday, spoke with a welding shop and they are going to weld parts of the two skeletons $225. Fortunately the whole lower part of the 170cm fits perfectly with the body suit. The suck part it doesn't have shrugging shoulders and I want that, so that is coming from the 148cm doll. Of course the shoulders have to be widened so I will use tubing from the 170cm doll.. It is piecing them together. If you want I can send you pictures of the skeletons I have, so you can get an idea on how they work. The design is basic and could be so much more improved.. And all doll skeletons are basically the same.

My plan for the foam skeleton is I bought the foam noodles just to bulk up the skeleton without adding much weight. Then I am also purchased seat cushion foam to add the additional bulk to the frame and make the doll look even more muscular. I didn't buy the more muscular 2 piece set I went with the onesie (hehehe!), but all the foam and skeleton is going to be put into a spandex suit, so I can make sure I have the muscles in the right place, etc. then I will powder the hell out of it and slide it into the silicone suit. Having the skeleton to give resistance will hopefully make it easier to get everything into the suit..

So I am getting several kits of the liquid silicone to see which one is going to work best for molding the hands and feet.. I was looking at iron oxide to help get to the solid black color (the vendor I spoke with said that it is hard to get true black) but I totally did not think about activated charcoal.. Have you used this for dying silicone? The concern about the iron oxide is that it might effect the silicone setting up..

I am just so dang excited about this project and really need the boost of serotonin from having created my own doll, that won't kill me to move him around.

[sactojoe]

Great deal on Amazon for the smaller 3D printer I've been using. I'm tempted to get another one