3M 94 Primer – Application as a TPE Glue / Cold Weld

Dollyman25442 · Post by **Dollyman25442** » Thu Dec 23, 2021 10:12 am

muesky6969 wrote:
Dollyman25442 wrote:So...
I made my paste, prepped some skin on the neck stump for a test, applied the paste and....
It seems to not have really adhered
I can peel it off with my fore finger with some light effort. Is my paste too thick I wonder? It's the consistency of honey. Perhaps it needs some more primer or some primer applied to the tpe just before paste application? Or is the application of heat what gets it to bond to the tpe?
Stumped lol
Yes, prepping the area with 3M primer really helps. Also give it more time. 48-72 hours, at least. It sets quick but to cure take a lot long, especially the inside part as 3M primer sets through evaporation.

I know Wheezer when he was first experimenting with the TPE paste, recommended if you were going to be repairing anything very deep that you apply paste in stages.

So Dollyman25442 you have to tell us where you go that heating tool... That is pretty cool! I got all excited when I found a set of heavy duty stainless steel carving tools, at Harbor Freight today, that are good for small areas, and fine detail..

Oh yeah, I wanted to let you know I found xylene at Lowes. It comes in a 1/2 gallon can but was only about $25. I am going to be experimenting with it in the next few months.. I will share with all of you what I find. Because of how volatile with the TPE that was mentioned, it might not make very good paste but for mending tears, maybe it will work better then the 3M primer.

I have a doll arriving tomorrow that is going to be turned into an undine, so there will be a lot of opportunities to experiment..

I know it doesn't show the tip we use, but this is the kit I got at Wall for $20
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Plaid-17391E ... hbdg=L1200
Also available in this kit if one already has the heating element
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Folkart-1187 ... /324946096

So far, the vaginal tear I repaired on Tink with Xylene is holding up quite well, but time will tell. The stuff is VERY tricky to use. Can repair or ruin. Requires plenty of practice.

Dollyman25442 · Post by **Dollyman25442** » Thu Dec 23, 2021 12:03 pm

I did a thing with my 6ye 162 G "Layla"
Made some paste and used powdered color to see if I could get whiter teeth. Seemed to work fairly well but in hindsight I think I would have made the paste much thinner (I had made it the consistency of honey, but making the consistency of mineral oil would have made it "flow" better).

Closer

muesky6969 · Post by **muesky6969** » Thu Dec 23, 2021 12:17 pm

Dollyman25442 wrote:I did a thing with my 6ye 162 G "Layla"
Made some paste and used powdered color to see if I could get whiter teeth. Seemed to work fairly well but in hindsight I think I would have made the paste much thinner (I had made it the consistency of honey, but making the consistency of mineral oil would have made it "flow" better).
Thank you so much for sharing this!!! I may have some questions, if you don't mind answering them when the time comes.. I am wanting to do some color mottling on the doll that should be arriving today.. She is a blue doll and I want to add darker blue and metallic swirls to her skin.

I was thinking maybe using the xylene with the pigment and melted colored TPE, to make a wash for the skin.. I will try it on a masturbator I have, to see if it will work.. Guess it will depend on how aggressive the xylene when made into a paste.. Don't necessarily want to carve grooves into the dolls's skin, but I guess if I went back and filled the grooves in with paste it might work.

Wheezer and I had talked about adding veins for realism but he stopped posting before that was ever worked out.. That would be something to try, down the line..

Closer

Dollyman25442 · Post by **Dollyman25442** » Thu Dec 23, 2021 12:29 pm

muesky6969 wrote:
Dollyman25442 wrote:I did a thing with my 6ye 162 G "Layla"
Made some paste and used powdered color to see if I could get whiter teeth. Seemed to work fairly well but in hindsight I think I would have made the paste much thinner (I had made it the consistency of honey, but making the consistency of mineral oil would have made it "flow" better).

Thank you so much for sharing this!!! I may have some questions, if you don't mind answering them when the time comes.. I am wanting to do some color mottling on the doll that should be arriving today.. She is a blue doll and I want to add darker blue and metallic swirls to her skin.

I was thinking maybe using the xylene with the pigment and melted colored TPE, to make a wash for the skin.. I will try it on a masturbator I have, to see if it will work.. Guess it will depend on how aggressive the xylene when made into a paste.. Don't necessarily want to carve grooves into the dolls's skin, but I guess if I went back and filled the grooves in with paste it might work.

Wheezer and I had talked about adding veins for realism but he stopped posting before that was ever worked out.. That would be something to try, down the line..

Closer

I use this for veining, it works very well
https://www.amazon.com/Revlon-PhotoRead ... B012EWZ9Z2
But then again, all my dolls (except Layla) are very pale.

Not so sure about making a wash with Xylene. Stuff melts tpe on contact in a very unpredictable way. Perhaps a paste is more stable/predictable...

I wonder whatever happened to him? A fountain of information and experimentation. He's sorely missed.

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Thu Dec 23, 2021 3:46 pm

Wheezer laid the foundation, it's now in the hands of some very creative people to continue the work

muesky6969 · Post by **muesky6969** » Thu Dec 23, 2021 7:08 pm

seagull wrote:Wheezer laid the foundation, it's now in the hands of some very creative people to continue the work

I am trying Seagull, I am definitely trying.. It feels like I am just beginning to be where he was almost a year ago..

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Thu Dec 23, 2021 8:12 pm

DrDemento789 · Post by **DrDemento789** » Sat Dec 25, 2021 9:13 am

Been a while since I used the paste but Sarah's elbow got a hole to her skeleton so a couple layers of primer paste made it as good as new. I do find once it dries applying a layer of pure primer with a brush on top helps to "lock it in" and keep it fused to the repair. A couple shots

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Sat Dec 25, 2021 11:25 pm

Had some difficulty finding the elbow on the first image, kept getting distracted

muesky6969 · Post by **muesky6969** » Sat Dec 25, 2021 11:29 pm

DrDemento789 wrote:Been a while since I used the paste but Sarah's elbow got a hole to her skeleton so a couple layers of primer paste made it as good as new. I do find once it dries applying a layer of pure primer with a brush on top helps to "lock it in" and keep it fused to the repair. A couple shots

Great work DrDemento789!!! If you wanted to touch it up with a heated spoon that would be an easy clean up.. Of course it isn't very noticeable so it would really be for a tactile esthetics..

muesky6969 · Post by **muesky6969** » Thu Jan 06, 2022 7:09 pm

Wow so much deadness in this thread... Well I have been doing some of my mad scientist experimenting, and I have discovered some interesting findings. While back I mentioned making TPE paint... Well I figured out how to do this, and it is actually really easy..

I purchased a clear colored dildo and made paste with it.. Oh and by the way.. Say you want your doll to have a permanent tattoo. Make some clear paste, have a custom temporary tattoo made.. Apply it on the dolls skin as directed. Once dry put a thin layer of clear paste and that tattoo probably isn't going anywhere.

Back to the process - In a jar I put the clear paste and oil paint and the other powder pigment. After the color was allowed to mix into the paste, I painted a piece of donor TPE.. The oil paint, I do not think is going to work for most things and here is why. First off, and I was reminded of this from a guy on Reddit that oil paint has a drying agent and I am not sure how it will react to the tpe long term.. The other issue is that some of the base color has bled a bit in to the surrounding tpe. Not much but I don't know if it is going to spread. (I'll keep you all updated on all that). In some ways if it only bleeds a little bit that would be great if you want to do permanent surface blood vessels on the skin. That is on my to-do list to figure out.. I have theories on how to do this but it is still in my head right now.
The pigment works amazingly well on the TPE and if you clean the area really well with alcohol and then put a thin layer of primer, it is not coming off, EVER!!! So if you do this it is permanent.. Dollyman did this for his dolls teeth..

I also started experimenting with xylene.. So far I have found that it makes paste pretty dang fast like within a hour.. I also found that making a paste with it, makes it less aggressive when applied onto tpe.. But I haven't had it on the donor tpe for 24 hours yet so I don't know.. I may go into the studio and it has burned right through.. It does seem pretty good about putting tpe back together and closing tears, but I don't know how strong the bond is yet.. Some of what you all have reported makes me hopeful it will be better for areas where there is a lot of stress..

So anyway, I will continue my experiments and share my information. If anyone has any questions, don't hesitate to contact me..

Dollyman25442 · Post by **Dollyman25442** » Thu Jan 06, 2022 10:01 pm

muesky6969 wrote:Wow so much deadness in this thread... Well I have been doing some of my mad scientist experimenting, and I have discovered some interesting findings. While back I mentioned making TPE paint... Well I figured out how to do this, and it is actually really easy..

I purchased a clear colored dildo and made paste with it.. Oh and by the way.. Say you want your doll to have a permanent tattoo. Make some clear paste, have a custom temporary tattoo made.. Apply it on the dolls skin as directed. Once dry put a thin layer of clear paste and that tattoo probably isn't going anywhere.

Back to the process - In a jar I put the clear paste and oil paint and the other powder pigment. After the color was allowed to mix into the paste, I painted a piece of donor TPE.. The oil paint, I do not think is going to work for most things and here is why. First off, and I was reminded of this from a guy on Reddit that oil paint has a drying agent and I am not sure how it will react to the tpe long term.. The other issue is that some of the base color has bled a bit in to the surrounding tpe. Not much but I don't know if it is going to spread. (I'll keep you all updated on all that). In some ways if it only bleeds a little bit that would be great if you want to do permanent surface blood vessels on the skin. That is on my to-do list to figure out.. I have theories on how to do this but it is still in my head right now.
The pigment works amazingly well on the TPE and if you clean the area really well with alcohol and then put a thin layer of primer, it is not coming off, EVER!!! So if you do this it is permanent.. Dollyman did this for his dolls teeth..

I also started experimenting with xylene.. So far I have found that it makes paste pretty dang fast like within a hour.. I also found that making a paste with it, makes it less aggressive when applied onto tpe.. But I haven't had it on the donor tpe for 24 hours yet so I don't know.. I may go into the studio and it has burned right through.. It does seem pretty good about putting tpe back together and closing tears, but I don't know how strong the bond is yet.. Some of what you all have reported makes me hopeful it will be better for areas where there is a lot of stress..

So anyway, I will continue my experiments and share my information. If anyone has any questions, don't hesitate to contact me..

I must admit I'm remiss in not updating my progress-
A few notes:
It's true that a clear paste can be made to cover a tat and make it more permanent. I did it to Holly's tat and it's about a year old. I DID NOT apply a wash of straight primer before application or after and the result was that it has peeled on the edges. If I had it to do again, I would apply a wash before and after. It's possible it's still salvageable with a wash but I've got a bunch of other work going on and simply haven't gotten to it yet. More later. Here's an image taken today

And yes, making a thin paste using color is simple and is excellent for permanent makeup. I recommend using powdered coloring agent as it's easy to blend and control. Here's an image of the teeth I did on the 162 6ye I just obtained. It's very permanent and as you can see, quite vibrant

Lastly, the work on Tink continues. I've applied a primer past the consistency of honey and it lays out nicely. The image below is the second application. Below that image is what we started with. You can also see the vagina tear has slightly re-opened (it was welded close with a straight Xylene). I think I will try making a paste but think I'll wait to see how muesky6969's experiemtn goes before I make the attempt. I think one more application of the Primer paste to the outer area and smoothing with my heat rig (which did a GREAT job smoothing the first application) and we can call the outer area complete. Then testing of course. And that will be the ultimate test of the works robustness.

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Thu Jan 06, 2022 10:31 pm

Nice tat

Arthur1960 commented on the advantage of adhesives over heat for repairs on thin sections
Wheezer noted the value of various paste viscosities for different applications
Only good stuff can come out of the work you are doing

muesky6969 · Post by **muesky6969** » Sat Jan 08, 2022 1:46 pm

Dollyman25442 wrote: I must admit I'm remiss in not updating my progress-
A few notes:
It's true that a clear paste can be made to cover a tat and make it more permanent. I did it to Holly's tat and it's about a year old. I DID NOT apply a wash of straight primer before application or after and the result was that it has peeled on the edges. If I had it to do again, I would apply a wash before and after. It's possible it's still salvageable with a wash but I've got a bunch of other work going on and simply haven't gotten to it yet. More later. Here's an image taken today

And yes, making a thin paste using color is simple and is excellent for permanent makeup. I recommend using powdered coloring agent as it's easy to blend and control. Here's an image of the teeth I did on the 162 6ye I just obtained. It's very permanent and as you can see, quite vibrant

Lastly, the work on Tink continues. I've applied a primer past the consistency of honey and it lays out nicely. The image below is the second application. Below that image is what we started with. You can also see the vagina tear has slightly re-opened (it was welded close with a straight Xylene). I think I will try making a paste but think I'll wait to see how muesky6969's experiemtn goes before I make the attempt. I think one more application of the Primer paste to the outer area and smoothing with my heat rig (which did a GREAT job smoothing the first application) and we can call the outer area complete. Then testing of course. And that will be the ultimate test of the works robustness.

Great work Dollyman! How your doll's teeth turned out was a big relief and inspiration, on my experimenting.. Love the tattoo!! I bet if you clean up the edges and then apply some straight primer or really thin clear paste around the edges, it will stop the pealing.. Have to say I am glad to hear that this is year old work, and how good it still looks.. Awesome!!

So it has been a couple of days now, and here are some of the finds and concerns. The pigment and oil paint seem to be okay, they do not come off. Of course it has only been a few days.. The oil paint does have a slight border of color leakage, but that may be desirable for coloring nipples and labia, as it gives a bit more realism.. The only issue is because I used tpe from a dildo that has a much firmer texture, it translate to the paint, no matter how thin you make the paint... I have some pale colored tpe left over from the buttgina I purchased almost 2 years ago to experiment with to see if it will be softer.. Maybe when I finally order a true white doll (this is definitely a future project), I will order a couple kgs more white tpe for other projects.

Here are some ideas I have for the firmer paint, though.. As the blue doll is going to have scale textured skin, you all know I can't just stop with that.. I am going to use the firmer paint to give the scales more definition, and some iridescent shimmer..

Cuz that is how I work.. Do you all think a bit of sparkle on the nether bits is a bit over kill?? Like seriously, would you all be freaked or appreciative of having the labia and nipples have a bit of shimmer? Mind you she is being turned into an undine.. It is really hard for me to find a balance between artistic license and remembering this is a sex doll...

So I am probably going to start a thread where I will document the modifications I do on the dolls I am working on.. Right now I am trying to broker a deal for two more custom colored dolls. These manufacturers are making it really frustrating, with their unwillingness to think outside the box on doll color.. But I am a persistent beotch... LOL!! When I get the thread set up I post the link here if anyone is interested..

Today I work on grinding spoons down to make scale stamps.. Best get too it before it starts raining again...