3M 94 Primer – Application as a TPE Glue / Cold Weld

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Sat Feb 19, 2022 3:48 pm

You're blowing smoke up there, keep doing it

pokitom · Post by **pokitom** » Thu Feb 24, 2022 9:48 am

I've noticed that heat is more stronger and doesn't break

if anyone is using the 94 primer and not having luck, or there pair breaks. then maybe you need to glue the tpe together with heat.
or melt some tpe and use as glue (but Be Careful)

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Thu Feb 24, 2022 4:43 pm

Until exhaustive testing is done with different blends of TPE and paste consistencies with various methods of preparation over a variety of repairs, the jury is still out over which technique is more effective

Anecdotally
Arthur1960 is well known as being highly skilled with heat and yet he prefers the 3M paste solution for fine repairs

pokitom · Post by **pokitom** » Thu Feb 24, 2022 6:07 pm

I guess my post was in case anyone is having trouble with 94 primer.

94 primer worked great for tears or places that don't bend.
bit primer for me wasn't working in any place that bends.

muesky6969 · Post by **muesky6969** » Thu Feb 24, 2022 9:48 pm

pokitom wrote:I guess my post was in case anyone is having trouble with 94 primer.

94 primer worked great for tears or places that don't bend.
bit primer for me wasn't working in any place that bends.

3M 94 primer can be used a couple of ways. As you said, for tears and cuts that doesn't have any stress, straight primer usually works.. For stress areas use primer to make tpe paste. If applied, set and given time to cure, it works wonders.

Heat can be used a few different ways as well. I used the heat gun to set the paste. Heated spoon (or metal implement) is what I use for sculpting, branding, and for some repairs. Recently bought a soldering iron with a lot of different tips, I am going to do some practicing with to see if it will work better for different sculpting.. Also bought xylene to try and see if I can use the two in tandem on some more tricky repairs...

Having mentioned all that, my point is there is no one way for all repairs or modifications. The one thing I have learned is you need a variety of skills to modify and repair these dolls. Honestly, I feel like my whole life has lead up to me modifying dolls, based on all the skill sets I have picked up over the years, that have been crucial with the repairs and modifications. Now I just need to learn to weld and crochet and I will be a true renaissance... person...

pokitom · Post by **pokitom** » Fri Feb 25, 2022 12:03 am

muesky6969 wrote:
pokitom wrote:I guess my post was in case anyone is having trouble with 94 primer.

94 primer worked great for tears or places that don't bend.
bit primer for me wasn't working in any place that bends.
3M 94 primer can be used a couple of ways. As you said, for tears and cuts that doesn't have any stress, straight primer usually works.. For stress areas use primer to make tpe paste. If applied, set and given time to cure, it works wonders.

Heat can be used a few different ways as well. I used the heat gun to set the paste. Heated spoon (or metal implement) is what I use for sculpting, branding, and for some repairs. Recently bought a soldering iron with a lot of different tips, I am going to do some practicing with to see if it will work better for different sculpting.. Also bought xylene to try and see if I can use the two in tandem on some more tricky repairs...

Having mentioned all that, my point is there is no one way for all repairs or modifications. The one thing I have learned is you need a variety of skills to modify and repair these dolls. Honestly, I feel like my whole life has lead up to me modifying dolls, based on all the skill sets I have picked up over the years, that have been crucial with the repairs and modifications. Now I just need to learn to weld and crochet and I will be a true renaissance... person...

maybe a combination of both is the best.

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Fri Feb 25, 2022 12:09 am

There are knitting machines Morghana

Welding takes a good 5 years of intensive upskilling from novice to welding any damn thing

Specializing in Stainless tube welding, considerably less

muesky6969 · Post by **muesky6969** » Fri Mar 11, 2022 3:36 pm

seagull wrote:There are knitting machines Morghana

Welding takes a good 5 years of intensive upskilling from novice to welding any damn thing

Specializing in Stainless tube welding, considerably less

Yes there are knitting machines but they are helluva expensive. It is kind of the survivalist in me that makes me want to pick up useful skills. LOL! By daughter can knit, crochet, and makes soap, so between the two of us we have pretty much have everything covered. Except welding, but neither her or her husband are interested in learning to weld, so it looks like it is up to mom to learn the skill.. LOL!!

Yes I have been studying welding and slowly picking up gear and stuff for when I am ready to take the plunge and buy a welding unit. Of the different types of welding MIG seems the easiest. But I don't have the time right now to practice, so getting a welder isn't practical.. **Sigh**

Nightster · Post by **Nightster** » Sun Mar 27, 2022 8:05 pm

Wheezer wrote:TATTOOS – Ink beneath the skin
I’ve always liked a nice tattoo or two on a doll. The temporary ones are available in many interesting styles and are (usually) easy to apply. But I continued to run into a problem. They were difficult to blend in and would crack and start to peel if placed in an area of the doll that flexes.

Very early tattoo discussions considered trying to actually tattoo the TPE doll using the same techniques as on a human. But the consensus was that it would react like a real tattoo, absorbing into the underlying structure. Only in this case faster on a TPE doll, like a typical stain. After doing using TPE paste to add skin over veins I started testing adding skin over a tattoo. A tattoo under the skin would protect it, blend it and allow it flex without destruction.

Some temporary tattoos are solvent ink printed onto a carrier film. Other ones are laser printed, where a colored plastic powder is heat fused to the carrier film. The critical thing is the carrier film. In all cases the carrier films is OVER the image and is the first thing to react with the TPE paste. Thus you might want to cut a small bit of carrier film from your tattoo and test it on a hidden spot first just to be safe. If the test works you can easily remove the TPE skin with the primer solution.

The test tattoo was applied in the typical fashion. Clean the TPE, remove the protective film from the tattoo, trim close to the image then put the tattoo and carrier paper in warm water. After a few minutes place the tattoo on the TPE and gently slide the carrier paper away. The image (below left) shows the tattoo wet and freshly applied. The test piece is a bit floppy. Just a small flop and flex caused the three cracks on the “S” within the first few minutes.

Once dried the tattoo was covered by a “skin” of thinned TPE paste made from 3M primer and bits of the test piece. The skin was smoothed by a solution and then allowed to cure. See the image below right. At this point the ink was really under the skin.
(01)_Wet-Skinned.jpg
When cured the area was misted with baby oil, allowed to set then excess gently blotted off. This was followed by the obligatory powdering. The image below left shows the oil application. The reflections show the tattoo is not on the surface. Below right image is after powdering. Even in close up it does not look that bad.
(02)_Oiled_powdered.jpg
Flex testing was next. The test tattoo area was pulled, poked, prodded and bent over 180 degrees. This was flexing that greatly exceed anything a doll area would encounter in posing or play. The picture below left shows the tattoo at the 180 degree bend position. Some cracking is seen, but that was expected.

The real test was recovery. When the piece was returned to its normal state no major damage was seen. There were some small cracks in the tattoo carrier, but noting major. If this was a tattoo applied to the surface only, there would be significant cracking and portions would be starting to flake off. The below right picture is what the tattoo looks like at a normal distance after the flex tests.
(03)_Flex_test.jpg
By adding a TPE paste skin over a tattoo it can last a while on the doll and look much better. The edges are sealed and won’t collect powder. It is a true matte tone like the doll flesh. The TPE paste skin protects it from minor scrapes and abrasions. Plus it the doll flesh flexes, as may happen during playtime, the tattoo will not crack and start to disintegrate.

Finally, even though the tattoo is “under the skin” and protected, it is not permanent. A light application of the 3M primer will liquefy the thin layer of skin and the tattoo under it can be removed. When done either apply another thin layer of skin or smooth with your preferred tools.

Too bad real tattoos can’t be removed this easily.

Hope this helps make your dolls look a bit better.

Cheers!
... W ...

great post, thanks

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Mon Mar 28, 2022 1:27 am

viewtopic.php?f=215&t=152166
A whole 'nuther level

PopTarts · Post by **PopTarts** » Mon Apr 04, 2022 4:01 pm

This entire thread is fascinating. I am new to all of this, and don't even have my first doll yet even though it has been ordered. I'm trying to learn as much as I can before she arrives so that I am a responsible owner for her. I applaud all of you! Anyways...

I have a general question/idea that may have been suggested or answered elsewhere. When it comes to the actual design of the dolls and their vaginal region, why don't they make all of them inserts, but instead of having the labium, clitoris, and vaginal opening as part of the doll, why not part of the insert that snaps into place flush against the doll's skin, making it look attached when it really isn't? It seems to me that vaginal tears are some of the most common ones happening, and perhaps the hardest ones to repair. If the inserts looked as though they were part of the doll, then perhaps more users would go that route and instead of looking to make costly and timely repairs, purchase replacements instead.

Just a thought from a newcomer with doll in production.

Post by **Rock13** » Mon Apr 04, 2022 4:14 pm

Some manufacturers already do that, RealDoll comes to mind. A lot of people prefer the built-in design. Both the insert and built-in varieties have their pros and cons- I think that the decision comes down to personal preferences for preparation, performance, and post-coital maintenance.

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Mon Apr 04, 2022 4:22 pm

Rock is on the money with "pros & cons"
It is almost impossible to design a flexible, relatively thin walled insert to look as though it is part of a doll in that size restricted area
A case of preference for those who like it and those who don't

PopTarts · Post by **PopTarts** » Tue Apr 05, 2022 8:29 am

Gotcha. While this will be my first doll that is heading my way in the hopefully not too distant future (patience), I have had other pleasure devices, and I can see how parts being too thin is an issue. I went with an insert out of fear of ripping the expensive body. And I love the way Wheezer added pigment to the insert on one to make it look slightly more natural, so I think I'll be attempting that at some point. Trying to take things slow and ease into everything like a freezing cold swimming pool.