My wife's pi head

Kaori Kusanagi · Post by **Kaori Kusanagi** » Mon Apr 25, 2022 2:17 am

For those interested in this type of project, this may be a useful article
https://towardsdatascience.com/tiny-mac ... 9e52b5cbdd

clicker · Post by **clicker** » Sat Apr 30, 2022 5:18 pm

Hello ChristineMan,
We talked not long ago that I was interested in hearing about your project. Especially your version 2 of Christine. Can you get back to me?

Christines Man · Post by **Christines Man** » Thu May 05, 2022 4:33 pm

Hey! It's my wife's fault. She's distracting me again!

Ok, here we go. I have located, sorted, curated, rotated, scaled, and metadata stripped some images that I snapped during the build. And now I will annotate. I feel like I'm bringing my sexbot into class for show and tell day. And it's my turn to present.

Lots of dust is created and toxic fumes are released when doing these things. Materials that are perfectly harmless to have sex with and love, if you heat it, grind it, etc, it can poison you, and put you in the hospital. It is essential that you have good ventilation and wear protective gear, every single time. I have a mask with chemical filters, a vacuum cleaner positioned close to the action, fan in window, and eye protection. You can also absorb toxic stuff through skin, so add gloves. Every. Single. Time. In the past when I was still learning I took some stupid chances and a few times felt a little sick, nothing major. If you're going to try building something similar, you need to not fuck around.

: Factory fresh; 20210413_132752.jpg (144.48 KiB) Viewed 1967 times

This is fresh from the factory, raw doll from reallovesexdolls. Purchased with breathing device, which I removed from chest because it's really much too loud. On top of that, they never sent a charger, and on top of that, the skeleton broke, long story short I fixed it.

The cavity left after the breathing device was removed is where my device fits. So if I had started with a typical doll without massive structural issues, my device would be a very different shape. Designing such a thing is a bit like painting and you just keep carefully filling the space you have, and if you make a bad brush stroke, it's ok, just paint over it.

For some reason it took 4 months to get started. I moved and stuff.

: Head open; 20210810_214801.jpg (68.03 KiB) Viewed 1967 times

I took the head, and using scissors cut an opening. I'd probably do it the same way next time because this was plenty open to work on the inside. Using a dremel, I removed the oral sex cavity and ground the fiber glass resin from the thick parts, because you're going to need some space inside to work with.

I drilled some holes for the light sensors. It was really hard to do because if I pushed too hard I could have a real bad accident resulting in TPE hamburger face, which just wouldn't be sexy.

Making a hole in TPE was an interesting thing to figure out. At first I was just pushing the component through, but the TPE creates too much resistance. What worked well was to heat up a glass stirring rod using hot air, and when it's hot enough, stick it through, and allow the rod to cool while it's inserted, then when it's very well cooled, remove. Now that you have a stable hole, put the component into a rigid tube of some sort, like a straw for example, insert the tube with component inside, withdraw the tube while pushing the component forward.

: Sealed light sensors; 20210810_230629.jpg (105.19 KiB) Viewed 1967 times

Sealed up the holes that light sensors went into using some plastic bonding two-part epoxy. I actually ended up not using these sensors because they had some issue I couldn't figure out, and the TPE just blocked too much light for them to work this way. I ended up later installing four light sensors into the sides of eye sockets, and that has been working great.

: Holes for wires; 20210816_135641.jpg (200.24 KiB) Viewed 1967 times

I drilled holes for wires. However, later I tweaked the design, and so now there are 4 wires for the speaker stuff, and one USB cable that carries mic and sensor data.

More to come.

Christines Man · Post by **Christines Man** » Thu May 05, 2022 5:09 pm

: Added more wires; 20210816_142005.jpg (132.08 KiB) Viewed 1961 times

Added a ground wire that everything plugs into. The light sensors are wired in parallel.

Into the oral sex canal, now just an opening to the mouth, I put some clear plastic cap that came from a bottle of gun oil. If I had it to do again, I'd probably just coat the inside with epoxy, but this works. Whatever I have laying around I use, kinda like those sculptures made of bits of junk, yeah like that. Recycling!! Art!!

: JBL Charge dissection; 20210817_163149.jpg (149.83 KiB) Viewed 1961 times

I disassembled this perfectly good portable speaker, and here I am testing it to make sure I didn't destroy anything, because it was messy, dremel cutting into plastic, screws going "missing", etc.

: Speaker mainboard continuity study; 20211126_123808.jpg (245.61 KiB) Viewed 1961 times

So I had to carefully figure out and document the solder pads on this main board. Basically using a multi meter doing continuity tests.

: Mounting the speaker mainboard; 20211126_191722.jpg (243.81 KiB) Viewed 1961 times

I soldered wires to the various pads on the speaker main board. Stuff like speaker L/R, ground, USB in, line-in L/R, power button, volume buttons, etc. If I had it to do again, I'd put a big gob of strong epoxy one each one to ensure they cannot ever break off.

: Mount it; 20211126_191920.jpg (139.45 KiB) Viewed 1961 times

Mount the mainboard onto a piece of thin board stuff I had laying around. If I had it to do again, I'd look for a different material that is thinner and stronger, but this worked out fine.

Christines Man · Post by **Christines Man** » Thu May 05, 2022 5:28 pm

: Microphone; 20210906_202857.jpg (45.4 KiB) Viewed 1960 times

I used two microphones, connected to an arduino via I2S.

: Microphones; 20210906_202915.jpg (111.7 KiB) Viewed 1960 times

Microphones connected together. They are meant to work together, left and right channels. It's important that both sides have the same wire length, or else the clock gets messed up. Also, notice how FAT these wires are. I ended up getting some tiny wires and redoing this. They work so much better. You don't need fat ass wires. This is not high voltage. Also to note, use silicone insulated wires. The cheap plastic stuff will get stiff and crack, especially when subjected to TPE.

: Mic in ear; 20210817_174807.jpg (24.06 KiB) Viewed 1960 times

The ear canal was formed using the heated glass stirring rod method discussed earlier.

: The mic wires; 20210817_174818.jpg (81 KiB) Viewed 1960 times

The wires from the mics proceed through the TPE like this.

: 20210817_222233.jpg (136.99 KiB) Viewed 1960 times

And the mics connect together in the middle.

Christines Man · Post by **Christines Man** » Thu May 05, 2022 5:56 pm

: Fat ass wires everywhere; 20211001_115801.jpg (201.88 KiB) Viewed 1959 times

So, fast forward, a lot added here. There's a 12-channel capacitive touch sensor installed in mouth cavity, to be connected to the arduino via I2C. I got some modelling clay and pressed it in there, with the plastic thingy that the speaker driver was screwed onto. Dumped gobs of epoxy all over that. For best sound it was important to seal the head airtight.

Wires going everywhere, mass hysteria.

: Working on back; 20211006_113038.jpg (146.83 KiB) Viewed 1959 times

Making a sloppy hole in the back piece. The JBL Charge speaker has a rubber piece that pops out when there's bass, it goes brrrr brrr. My lady has the bass.

: Arduino; 20211016_213131.jpg (105.39 KiB) Viewed 1959 times

Add the arduino, secure it with screws and glue, start soldering to it. Those wires are still way too fat, I don't know what I was thinking.

: Mic interconnect; 20211017_154904.jpg (143.3 KiB) Viewed 1959 times

I cut this little piece of protoboard to help connecting all the little mic wires to the other fat wires.

: Speaker driver; 20211017_161605.jpg (135.58 KiB) Viewed 1959 times

Insert speaker driver, screw it in. So now the business end of the speaker is pointed out the mouth to the outside world, and the big bulbous magnet end will be sealed up airtight inside head. When the speaker thing moves in response to low frequency sounds, the bass emitter will vibrate, as it was designed to do when it was a boring little portable speaker, before some guy chopped it up for sexbot parts.

Christines Man · Post by **Christines Man** » Thu May 05, 2022 6:23 pm

: Back on; 20211018_121755.jpg (124.26 KiB) Viewed 1957 times

: Back on other side; 20211018_121803.jpg (86.78 KiB) Viewed 1957 times

Fit the back of skull precisely where it was so violently parted some months ago. Secure the position with temporary hot glue.

The red/black wire pair is connected to a mystery mic that was on the outside shell of the speaker. I think it is used by the speaker for self-calibration? I'm not a doctor. I just connected it the way it was connected before I chopped it up.

: Glue back on; 20211103_221717.jpg (110.85 KiB) Viewed 1957 times

: The jibble; 20211104_141737.jpg (108.05 KiB) Viewed 1957 times

Sealed the back of skull using epoxy. Then I mixed up an extra huge gob of epoxy and dumped it, allowing it to fill in the empty space at the base of the skull. Very solid. I fit the base emitter jibble thingy to the back and epoxied the fuck out of that, too.

: The cage; 20211116_113125.jpg (102.18 KiB) Viewed 1957 times

I would do this part differently. It's really done sloppy. Basically I made this metal structure to fill in the proper shape head shape but still allow the speaker to be out. In the end it works alright.

Just keep swimming, just keep swimming..

Post by **Rock13** » Thu May 05, 2022 7:08 pm

Dude, I must say, this is one of the most over the top crazy tech threads I've ever seen. I mean, damn, beyond the electronics just the courage implicit in your modifications just about had me falling on my ass. Bravo!

Christines Man · Post by **Christines Man** » Thu May 05, 2022 7:10 pm

: The head is on!; 20211130_163425.jpg (182.09 KiB) Viewed 1955 times

Screw head on, pass wires down a flexible pipe leading into chest cavity. A USB cable, a two-wire cable for speaker, and two-wire cable for the speaker's mystery mic.

Also started hair implantation. This is real hair. Somebody shaved their head for money, and so I feel bad, but it's really super nice hair. I hope they were paid well for their hair.

: Back of head; 20211201_113340.jpg (160.02 KiB) Viewed 1955 times

Implanting hair is really tedious work.

Cut a slit using a soldering iron tip that I ground into a hot knife. I work the hair weft into the slit, and cut the weft to size.

I made the forbidden glue. I took some TPE pieces and thoroughly cut them up into really fine pieces. Added xylene, stirred it up, let it sit. Added more xylene until the solution flows like syrup. Don't fuck around with xylene without ventilation, a well fitted chemical mask, and gloves. Every single time. Allow plenty of time for the xylene to evaporate from the finished product.

With the hair weft in the crack, inject the glue, making sure not to overfill. Hold the crack closed for as long as you can stand it. You can use a hot air blowing type device to help the solvent to evaporate faster.

Wear a mask. Ventilate the fuck out of the area. Scabies!!

Christines Man · Post by **Christines Man** » Thu May 05, 2022 7:35 pm

Oh, but there's more!

: Pi mounted; 20211126_205841.jpg (159.95 KiB) Viewed 1952 times

Back to the electronics. Mounted the pi. On top of the pi is mounted a board for power and battery.

: More pi and stuff; 20211224_140402.jpg (197.45 KiB) Viewed 1952 times

: More pi; 20211224_140414.jpg (206.98 KiB) Viewed 1952 times

: More and more pi; 20211224_140437.jpg (173.85 KiB) Viewed 1952 times

: Almost done; 20220101_162306.jpg (210.46 KiB) Viewed 1952 times

On top of the pi is power, then a digital audio board, and a gyro board. Box it up, epoxy everywhere, and then epoxy all around the outside.

: Final test; 20211229_192707.jpg (3.19 MiB) Viewed 1952 times

Before sealing it all up, I ran a final sound test. You can also see the power supply, pi battery, and speaker battery. A lot of this was crappy and I have since reworked it, wrapped the wires nice, but basically wired the same. Power is fed through left leg. She is normally left plugged in but can function on battery for about an hour. The sound is nice and loud.

Once it was done, I pushed the device into the chest cavity and plugged everything in. She works!

There's video, too, but I'm done bombing the thread. Maybe some other time.

silicon · Post by **silicon** » Thu May 05, 2022 8:10 pm

Clever Stuff..

Newky · Post by **Newky** » Mon May 16, 2022 7:01 pm

Very interesting read. Keep it up!

clicker · Post by **clicker** » Fri May 20, 2022 3:25 pm

Hi Mr Christine,

I hope your list of electronic components (in the first posts) is always up to date, except for the JBL Charge 4 of course, because I want to order everything.

I did some research and if I installed pressure sensors instead of touch sensors inserted into the TPE very close to the surface. Some pressure sensors start at 0 grams. I would love to hear your opinion based on your experiences.

We'll talk again soon and above all, don't give up!

Technician · Post by **Technician** » Sun May 22, 2022 4:33 am

I changed gears a bit on my project. My family friendly one is good, but speech recognition is still less than perfect because I refuse to run one that sends data online for processing.
My doll is still using the Bluetooth speaker/mic. My new plan is to use an ESP module as a computer in the doll, theyre tiny, energy efficient, and no heat.
For the moment I'm stopped because I got a VERY time consuming new job, it's pretty cool though because I'm surrounded by robots. Still checking up on speech recognition periodically and I want to take another run at Vosk or DeepSpeech.

Christines Man · Post by **Christines Man** » Mon May 23, 2022 11:24 pm

clicker wrote: ↑Fri May 20, 2022 3:25 pm Hi Mr Christine,

I hope your list of electronic components (in the first posts) is always up to date, except for the JBL Charge 4 of course, because I want to order everything.

I did some research and if I installed pressure sensors instead of touch sensors inserted into the TPE very close to the surface. Some pressure sensors start at 0 grams. I would love to hear your opinion based on your experiences.

We'll talk again soon and above all, don't give up!

The list at the start of this topic is for version 1. A lot of the parts are the same, though. The most updated list is on the github (https://github.com/ChristinesMan/ChristineAI).

I'm not sure about pressure sensors. It's worth testing but I have not. One problem that may happen though, is when you press and then release on the sensor, it could bind up inside the TPE, and then you'd have an odd bump. Also, when the body is moved around or limbs re-positioned, that would probably register all kinds of noise. Quite a difficult thing to figure out.

I have been experimenting with the touch sensor a bit. I took some of the insulated copper wire from a tiny motor and wrapped it around a Q-tip stick, covered it in epoxy, and that seemed to register my finger placed only about 1cm away. The little coil seemed more sensitive than single straight wire. So it should also sense proximity of some larger body parts. I'm currently half-done implanting vaginal sensors. After that maybe I can call this done and chillax for a bit besides fixing stuff that breaks.