DIY Gel Breasts *tested and working*

[Catoptric]

Something worth mentioning about hydrogels (super absorbers) :

A study done by a Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor, Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University:........"Hydrogels are routinely touted as pH-neutral, non-toxic, environmentally friendly compounds, which they are in their polymerized form. The fact remains that after five years virtually all hydrogel will be depolymerized through natural decomposition processes. The rate of degradation is increased especially in the presence of fertilizer salts (and no, it doesn’t make any difference if these are synthetic or organic fertilizers)...........My second, and probably greatest, concern occurred when I discovered that hydrogels are constructed of acrylamide units. When hydrogels break down, they release potassium acrylate and acrylamide. Acrylamide is a lethal neurotoxin and has been found to cause cancer in laboratory animals. It readily passes through the skin and can be inhaled as dust. Unfortunately, the chemical data sheets on hydrogels do not mention the fact that within a few years they will be composed entirely of these acrylamide units. Since polyacrylamide is defined as “not readily biodegradable” (less than 10% is degraded after 28 days), some sellers of hydrogels actually promote their products as “nonbiodegradable!”
Who is at risk to acrylamide exposure? Workers in the nursery and landscape industry who routinely use hydrogels may become exposed to them as they degrade and become toxic. Homeowners who add hydrogel-containing potting mix to their landscapes or compost piles are exposed. Dogs, cats, and wildlife that come in contact with these substances are at risk. On a larger scale, entire ecosystems are at risk as acrylamide is water-soluble and can easily enter watersheds."


*****************************

The long-term use of anything can be bad, and many are already at risk with bad quality TPE which is also toxic. Most of the companies appear to be shell companies with fly-by-night operations operating through multiple channels (brands) and platforms, many of which are also operating as conduits with little tax oversight (so a company pretending to operate from Europe is not apparently required to pay taxes, even if you were likely to do so on any other outlet?) The same doll selling for less than $700 on Ebay can be sold for $1000 for ready-to-purchase or $1400, all for the same product shipped from Chinese warehouses. When I bought a doll that didn't come with gel-filled boobs as I ordered (which you can still get higher quality dolls with those features off Ebay,) I immediately went through a list of options, including mixing silicone to fill through a large syringe (which also has quality issues to deal with, namely that those tend to break, fall apart when using, or are likely not reliable for the intended use; and an uncertain outcome that might not even function as intended.) The potential for major issues is just not worth experimenting with, and it appears the oversized boob option is probably better off with hollow (though I will keep checking up on this subject.) I don't want to run the risk of causing irreversible damage, unless somehow it was an alternative repair option that allowed for the doll to appear "full" at some point.

[Catoptric]

3 parts deadener to Platsil gel-025 seems to be ideal, and I was tempted to use Gel-005 and less deadener which affects the shore content even more, and considering it's reaching the 000.. range in the video, the 300% deadener would reduce the shape memory to an excess that might better resemble a realistic jiggle, instead of what seems to be a memory foam pillow.

https://youtu.be/eBO-6DZ_gHk


I will probably need a 500cc and inject two syringes into each breast, requiring about 4lbs (a little over 1 lb each syringe,) though I suspect it might require more. It's been argued that using gel breast in larger dolls is bad which is mostly an issue with transporting and reaching higher elevations (the expansion leads to rupture of the TPE or outer silicone shell) but once in an environment where higher elevations aren't expected any time soon, the main concern might be the reliability of the doll material itself. I would assume a gel core would be more reliable than hollow air (and it's still recommended to leave additional air in the breast because of how it allows pressure to expand and not rupture.)

The part I'm not sure about is the high likelihood that cotton or some other fiber is stuffed inside it, and whether I would be required to remove it, considering it will likely clump up and affect the end result.

[tuffluv88]

Great stuff!

[Catoptric]

It has come to my attention that mixing silicone with TPE would pose a major issue, as it seems the silicone would start to dissolve TPE. . . or vice versa. It would need to be tested in contact with the material, to determine whether dissolving TPE with deadener might reduce the effects, or whether simply taking chances with absorbent gel would be much better off (since it's supposed to be contained within the hollow opening,) even though it would be a risk of acrylamide exposure (and who knows what chemical reaction to TPE over time? Does anyone think stuff coming out from China is concerned with people's safety here in the USA or abroad?)

[SimonSays7]

I wonder if this technique might work on a Piper Jessica TPE doll with hollow breasts? I know the TPE formulation is different from brand to brand.

The possibility of gel breasts is the only thing that I’d want to upgrade on my Piper- it’s great otherwise.

[Wheezer]

It has come to my attention that mixing silicone with TPE would pose a major issue, as it seems the silicone would start to dissolve TPE. . . or vice versa. It would need to be tested in contact with the material, to determine whether dissolving TPE with deadener might reduce the effects, or whether simply taking chances with absorbent gel would be much better off (since it's supposed to be contained within the hollow opening,) even though it would be a risk of acrylamide exposure (and who knows what chemical reaction to TPE over time? Does anyone think stuff coming out from China is concerned with people's safety here in the USA or abroad?)

Uh .. yeah. It's pretty well known that TPE and silicone do not play nice together. MANY and MANY posts here mention that and show the oil leaching reaction of silicone when it comes in contact with TPE. So, just don't mix them. Move along.

As of now (18 Oct 2022) there are many more options than when this thread started back in 2020. Some use liquid soap, other hair gels, others the semi-sold known as "slime". But they all have a common characteristic of being safe for humans (generally), commonly available, and can be obtained and used by end users with limited lab and creation experience. Safe and simple. Exotic stuff may on paper sound good, but may be out of the comfort zone of a common boobie loving user. No problem with that.

My final tests revolved around the item known as SLIME and raw TPE pellets. I opened up the breast, filled with pellets to emulate fatty tissue, then injected SLIME to fill in the voids. The result was a nice, fleshy feel with decent heft. Final density and weight was close to natural TPE, but more fun feeling. Prior attempts were with SLIME only. They were nice and meaty but the weight was significantly more that TPE. I did not like the resulting stress load, so I want to a mixed media solution.

Looking back at this all the experiments were good. Today there are better choices and some significant work being done on doll hooter enhancement. The current work looks great and even better is the common availability of gel breasts in almost all dolls. Especially the after molding add on where manufacturer will mold hollow, then add the gel bag per customer request. Probably within 12 months or so (say late 2023) we should be able to obtain sealed gel bags. Or even create our own.

To do that one would need a gel/fluid/whatever and a vacuum bag sealer (as used for food storage). Add gel, seal in bag, seal again for safety (those bags are cheap and thin), then small incision to insert bag, seal up the TPE and enjoy the boobie bounce. All of these are easily obtainable consumer items, no great investment needed. This might even follow the same trajectory as articulated fingers, moveable eyes and eyelids. That is an interested TDF user might start a cottage industry for the creation of gel boobie bags to enhance the TPE hooters.

I may get back to bigger boobies later, but for now maybe these items can give you ideas.

Cheers!
... W ...

[SimonSays7]

As of now (18 Oct 2022) there are many more options than when this thread started back in 2020. Some use liquid soap, other hair gels, others the semi-sold known as "slime". But they all have a common characteristic of being safe for humans (generally), commonly available, and can be obtained and used by end users with limited lab and creation experience. Safe and simple. Exotic stuff may on paper sound good, but may be out of the comfort zone of a common boobie loving user. No problem with that.

This is something I hope more users might share about, the simpler and easier solution that basically works.

I'd love to hear about folks who have injected fluids that do the job, how they did it, what they used, and any issues that have arisen after a year or two.

Thanks for any help. My Jessica Piper is ready!

[FCD94]

Hello everyone.

I also thought about the easiest way to "fill" the Hollow breasts. After I saw the pictures of the burst gel breasts and tried to find out what is inside and why it came to such a damage, I found a way to fill the breasts.

Tests on my Doll were very successful and the touching feeling is also great.

Apparently our dear manufacturers use a superabsorber. These superabsorbers have the ability to absorb up to 300 times their own volume of water. Some bind it permanently, others can release it again. The latter are often mixed into potting soil to increase the water retention capacity.

I got 45g of this stuff and then did some tests. You have to know quite well how much water you add, otherwise you get a crumbly mass. But if you hit a good balance, it becomes a gel-like substance. With my remedy this was the case with a ratio of 1:200. Adding water later is no problem. But it is best to try a little bit around until you have the desired consistency before you fill it into the breast.

To get the gel into the breast of the Doll is then relatively easy. Only before the whole operation one should determine how much volume fits/should fit into the breast. The easiest way to do this is to suck the air out of the breast with a big syringe until you can't get anything more out. Then you have about the volume that fits in there. A rough indication is enough it is only important not to take too much or too little of the super absorber. But a little too little is still better than too much.


You need the following tools:

Syringe at least 100ml (depending on breast size)
blunt cannula with at least 14G. Better 12G or even 10G. Best to buy a set.
pointed cannula to puncture a canal through the nipple
Baby oil to lubricate the canal.
Superabsorbents
Water ^^


Doll lay on the back.

With the thin, pointed cannula carefully prick a channel into the nipple.

Remove air from the Hollow breasts and notice how much that was.

If you have measured a volume of 500ml you need about 400ml water and 2g of the super absorber. If you take less, the consistency will remain more gel-like, if you take more, it will become firmer. As I said, test it before until you like the consistency.

Then insert the thick cannula into the breast and leave it in. Later there is no time to get it in. To make it easier to get it in, smear everything well with the baby oil. If you can't get it in, choose one number smaller. 14G is still ok, but with a 12G it is much easier and you have more time.

Prepare the gel. You should work quickly. For a short time it remains very liquid until it has absorbed the water. This is the ideal consistency for injecting it. This step is not about filling up the whole volume, it is only about getting the required amount of absorber into it. The rest is filled up with water later.

Attach the syringe to the cannula and press the prepared amount into it before the contents become too solid. This is the most time critical step. If it has already become a bit too solid, you can draw up the syringe with some water and shake it all. Then the superabsorber becomes more gel-like again.

Now it's time to fill the chest to the desired weight. If you have measured a volume of 500ml you can now inject the amount of water and wait until the stuff has swollen up accordingly. How much exactly this has to be is completely up to your own feeling and preferences. The absorber develops a bit more volume than the water alone.

You have to be careful not to leave too much air in the chest and not to use too little water. Otherwise you will have a muddy sound when kneading. If too much air remains, the swelling absorber usually prevents you from simply pulling it out with a syringe.

Also here it helps to lay the doll on its back and insert the needle just far enough to inject water without any problems. It takes some time until all the air has moved upwards, but you can feel it quite well. If you then inject some water and suck it out again, you will quickly notice if you have caught a possible air bubble. In my case the air only came out in pieces, but like this



Unfortunately I can't post any pictures about it, because I didn't make any.

What you should be aware of is that your breasts can get quite heavy. If the breasts are really big, the lady may have to wear a bra permanently when she has to stand. I don't think there are problems with D and E cups, but it can be critical.

In summary, I must say that the vibration behaviour has improved.Also, the feeling of touching is better and the breasts don't sound so hollow anymore when you give a fold.

On the subject of which superabsorber:

I have used one for terrariums. It was the easiest to get and is quite fine. There are also some for horticulture, although the one is a bit coarser.


Anyone who tinkers with his doll is of course responsible for all damage and misfortunes.From water ingress to the skeleton, ripping TPE because of too thick boobs, to explosive decompression, everything is on your own.

Revisiting this superabsorber method for anyone who has received a new doll which has this kind of gel filling but which shows the kind of 'dents' often seen in larger bust size gel filled TPE dolls around the top of the bust (as though not enough gel was used, or sometimes chalked up to possible shipping damage).

Can a doll shipped with this kind of problem be easily repaired after the fact?

If it is a moisture absorber, would adding a small amount of moisture (water) work after the fact? Has anyone tried adding more after the fact on a new doll, or on a doll that has been modified with superabsorber as a DIY?

[Dollicious2]

I have a couple of dolls which had stuffed tits.
By stuffed i mean they have hollow breasted but when i went in the breast with my finger threw carefully puncture on the nipples i could feel the synthetic fiber just like what's used behind factory eyes on most dolls.
The synthetic fiber clumps were in a webbed sack.
I pulled the synthetic fider out after grappling with my fingertip and eventually got all of it out on both my dolls.

The dolls are both my Irontech dolls which came from the SM factory.
Not sure if that's an SM factory thing or Irontech thing or it's even put in the breasts anymore or not , could be that's what's done for the dolls when making them with hollow breasts and is common on all dolls or not i do not know.
My guess is that is how they're made hollow as the the sit in the skeleton when the hot TPE or Silicone poured in the body mold , just makes perfect sense to me because i also believe the backing fiber can withstand that kinda heat easily but will shrink a bit in the process which is also beneficial to the feel of the tits when all said and done.

So if your to do any gel insertion on the hollow breasts i recommend feeling inside them with index finger threw the nipple and getting that synthetic fiber out of there before putting the other stuff in there with it , you'll get much better results i believe.

20221028_233121.jpg (1.37 MiB) Viewed 674 times

This is Jelena with her set of backing packs which were carefully removed from her tits via her nipples and some vaseline in there to lubricate the slow careful pulling with the index finger curled like a hook.
I gotta say TPE can really stretch a whole lot without tearing the slightest if it's good TPE, it's really amazing.

And yes the breasts do feel better now that the backing fiber packs are removed.

On the 1st one i did it was litte shocking how much of that synthetic fiber came out.
As you guys can plainly see it is just as large as her breasts just about.

The inside of the breasts feels interesting.
I could feel some kinda plastic breast plate thing attached to the skeleton like my old WM 163 C cup had in her.
She had poor quality TPE from way back in 2015 and i regretfully had to retire her but kept her skeleton for sentimental reasons i suppose , so here's what these chest plates look like.

20221028_234120.jpg (1.32 MiB) Viewed 673 times

Not sure what the purpose is for them plates but i think not all dolls have them and possibly they no longer used nowadays for reasons of weight reduction or just different manufacturers different techniques.

Anywho...
After removing the backing packs I've achieved a slightly better pair of breasts for her , they look a little more relaxed but haven't lost shape.
I keep trying to keep air out of them for smaller breasts look but it slowly sucks back in there because can't be resealed air tight.

So if your like me wantinh smaller tits your gonna need to buy a doll with the tits you really want from the factory because I've really tried so much and it's at best temporary modification to reduce air in them.

But i see some progress in getting gel like feel to them here on this thread and that brings a smile to my old mug.

[Catoptric]

It has come to my attention that mixing silicone with TPE would pose a major issue, as it seems the silicone would start to dissolve TPE. . . or vice versa. It would need to be tested in contact with the material, to determine whether dissolving TPE with deadener might reduce the effects, or whether simply taking chances with absorbent gel would be much better off (since it's supposed to be contained within the hollow opening,) even though it would be a risk of acrylamide exposure (and who knows what chemical reaction to TPE over time? Does anyone think stuff coming out from China is concerned with people's safety here in the USA or abroad?)

Uh .. yeah. It's pretty well known that TPE and silicone do not play nice together. MANY and MANY posts here mention that and show the oil leaching reaction of silicone when it comes in contact with TPE. So, just don't mix them. Move along.

As of now (18 Oct 2022) there are many more options than when this thread started back in 2020. Some use liquid soap, other hair gels, others the semi-sold known as "slime". But they all have a common characteristic of being safe for humans (generally), commonly available, and can be obtained and used by end users with limited lab and creation experience. Safe and simple. Exotic stuff may on paper sound good, but may be out of the comfort zone of a common boobie loving user. No problem with that.

My final tests revolved around the item known as SLIME and raw TPE pellets. I opened up the breast, filled with pellets to emulate fatty tissue, then injected SLIME to fill in the voids. The result was a nice, fleshy feel with decent heft. Final density and weight was close to natural TPE, but more fun feeling. Prior attempts were with SLIME only. They were nice and meaty but the weight was significantly more that TPE. I did not like the resulting stress load, so I want to a mixed media solution.

Looking back at this all the experiments were good. Today there are better choices and some significant work being done on doll hooter enhancement. The current work looks great and even better is the common availability of gel breasts in almost all dolls. Especially the after molding add on where manufacturer will mold hollow, then add the gel bag per customer request. Probably within 12 months or so (say late 2023) we should be able to obtain sealed gel bags. Or even create our own.

To do that one would need a gel/fluid/whatever and a vacuum bag sealer (as used for food storage). Add gel, seal in bag, seal again for safety (those bags are cheap and thin), then small incision to insert bag, seal up the TPE and enjoy the boobie bounce. All of these are easily obtainable consumer items, no great investment needed. This might even follow the same trajectory as articulated fingers, moveable eyes and eyelids. That is an interested TDF user might start a cottage industry for the creation of gel boobie bags to enhance the TPE hooters.

I may get back to bigger boobies later, but for now maybe these items can give you ideas.

Cheers!
... W ...

I only now logged in again, though I have something of a solution that seemed to work well (though I can't be sure it eliminates things like black mold from water being used, even if something like a food sanitation chemical such as for beer fermentation was used.) Also, it seems important if using a doll with macromastia features, that at least some air is used (though I could have kept it saggy, instead of filling them out more due to curiosity, and instead of deflating them back I just kept them and continued to see how far it was able to go, which seems better to do gradually since it needs time to stretch the materials.) When injecting, it was a very slow process and it almost seemed as if nothing was going into the doll, but the results worked out pretty well (note, this is basically what would be used to make a lubricant. . . It was intended to be neutral to TPE, while also retaining moisture due to the ingredients.)

- Ultrasound Gel (used for sonography, and though good on its own, it needed something else to allow it to move freely.)
- Guar gum powder (which is often used to make toy slime) lightly sprinkled over water with sanitizing chemicals like Star-San or San Step, and added until it became thick enough while not mixing it so that it forms thickening bonds, without clumping. The most important part is using a fine strainer mesh and pressing the ingredients through to ensure it can fit through the syringe.
- 500ml Syringe (20Ga non-pointed needle)
- rosemary oil (is something I should have added to reduce the chance of mold, which I'm not sure isn't present. Mold is no joke and can have serious negative side effects.)

The needle will start to clog from the guar gum which is to be expected, so I would take off the needle and soak it and clear it out, which can also help if you use a steam wand from an espresso maker if it seems no air is going through it. It's stressful to do and can take a few hours and hand cramps, though I haven't had any issues directly resulting from the process, and it was inserted through the nipples.

I was able to remove the original air and I might have injected more than 1000ml/cc (it might have been 2000ml/cc) each of the mixture and then refilled it with more air to determine what was needed. The TPE already weighed about 7 lbs each breast, and now it's probably at least 10-12 each.

I've had more issues with other parts of the doll, and have had to reconstruct parts (basically learning to just remove sections and trying to reconstruct the shape with premolded cutouts that adhere through a soldering iron, which has worked passingly for the vagina on several occasions and am going to attempt to solder the hand wires and reform the hand, which are currently kept covered in gloves.