irontech 164+ with Gel breast under breast repair
OK .. a good first step is a similar repair at the link
HERE viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&p=1786105&#p1786105
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PRACTICE FIRST - Putting the paste in is not hard, but you want a trial run. Smoothing should be practiced too. In the lower breast area you could use a brush with a deft hand, mist some alcohol and gently roll it out with a q-tip dipped in baby oil (paste will not stick to that). If you have a small pallet knife that works too. You might want to make a divot (gasp!) in the neck top and do a test of filling and what works for you with smoothing. Most folks say "fix and then smooth", but the smoothing part gets into how good you are with fine motor skills in the hands, are you left or right handed, are you better pulling or pushing, what is your preferred tool, etc. What works for me might not work for you. And what works on a flat area like a thigh may not work as well on a curved under breast. So get comfortable with that first. While the paste is still wet you CAN easily smooth it, once you have a good method down.
Here are the general steps ..... please read/review all before starting.
1) To be safe, mist or clean the area with alcohol.
2) Mix paste, make it thick. Let it set up. It will take a while. Stir up (gently) a few times. Make TWICE what you think you will need.
3) Think small. Like you are about to fill in the drywall cracks in a miniature wall. Do you have a little pallet knife, small spoon, etc.? Look around the house or your shop to find a small scoop or spoon to get the paste to the breast. Once I cut up a metal tube to make a mini spoon for paste delivery. Metal or hard black plastic works. Check your found tool to make sure it is OK with 3M (just to be safe).
4) Position her on her upper body maybe 45 degrees down. This takes SOME stress off the breasts. Don't stand her on her head and put too much stress on the breasts.
5) Place some paper towels below breasts in case you slip and drip.
6) Take out some paste with your tool. Place and wound and PUSH IN (gently). You want to make sure it is in there deep and touching.
7) Don't freak if a bit unzips, the next pass can cover that.
8) Fill the wound/crack center ALMOST TO TOP, not all the way. As it cures it will shrink down and you will smooth your final pass.
9) WAIT FOR THIS PASS TO CURE - Give it 24 hours. Thick paste => deep application => longer time to cure (off gas the 3M solvent)
10) The thickness of your paste will determine how much it shrinks.
11) Repeat to fill in depression.
12) Smooth out using what you have practiced and are good at.
13) Let cure SOLID. Waiting is good even though it might be difficult.
14) If a mini depression remains, you can add a bit more and smooth until satisfied.
15) LET IT CURE (Have you picked up yet that TPE paste is actually spelled out as "WAIT AND LET IS SLOWLY CURE" but not pronounced that way?)
16) You can feather in or do whatever makes you satisfied with the final blending.
17) LIGHTLY Powder of the primer paste once cured. Even after curing the paste will have a bit of surface stickiness, powder cures that.
NOTE: To improve adhesion you MIGHT want to lightly coat the inner wound area with 3M primer before paste.
BUT THIS CAN BE RISKY. If the area is under stress
THIS COULD CAUSE THE TPE TO UNZIP (dramatically open up and expand the wound channel). A lot depends on the weight of the breast, the position the doll is in for repair and the natural repose angle of the breast. If you want to do this, test first with a VERY SMALL drop on a toothpick and watch carefully. I don't think so based on the last image, but test to be sure.
Once complete and cured the crack should be repaired and the TPE paste bonded to the doll and breast. The area will be filled with TPE and be under compression, rather than stress tension. Also this is a cold set repair, NOT the original heat set TPE as in the original casting. The bonding will be good, but still a repair and as such a weak point. Try not to pick her up by the breasts, beat on them like bongos or the like (unless that is your fancy). Not to say it is delicate, but just be aware no repair is perfect. Better to be careful and happy all is well, than complacent and get surprised.
Practice the smoothing, take your time and it should be an easy repair. Going slowly, using less and building up multiple layers is better than "whoomp all at once".
Take your time and please let everyone know how it worked out.
Cheers!
... W ...
UPDATE: As been suggested I should remind you that the curing paste will emit fumes as it cures.
So make sure you have ventilation, either outside or in a room with good air flow. Wear a mask to protect yourself.
DO NOT perform this procedure naked while inside a sealed broom closet. That would be dangerous. Likewise doing this while wearing a full level A (or type 1) hazmat suit on the field of an empty soccer stadium would be overly cautious. Use reasonable personal protective gear to insure you and your doll have many fun times after the repair is complete.
