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Fabric Anime Doll 160cm arm repair (& also Dagmar Doll)

Ding! POP! Crash! Thud! oops...let's get her all fixed up!
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LuvAnimeGirlz
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Fabric Anime Doll 160cm arm repair (& also Dagmar Doll)

Post by LuvAnimeGirlz »

I finally got around to repairing the loose arm on my 160cm fabric anime deluxe doll. The steps should be the same for the fabric Dagmar doll (which I also own, but is not in need of an arm repair).
Probably applicable to the 135cm/140cm/160cm variants of:
Fabric Anime Doll
Fabric Anime Deluxe Doll
Fabric Anime Dagmar Doll

Here's what I documented while doing the repair.

Anime Deluxe 160cm 2nd Generation ~(2016 May/June Production) Arm Repair Documentation
(Note that doing the following may stretch the skin more than its original condition, seams may be ripped, and other possible damage may occur. This is meant as a documentation of how I managed to access the frame at the arm in an attempt to fix a loose joint on the fabric doll. Do not continue unless you understand that this may cause damage to your doll. The information below is provided as-is at your own discretion to its use. Proceed at your own risk).
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Items you'll probably need:
1x 10mm hex wrench (to hold the bolt head in place)

1x socket wrench with 10mm hex attachment (to tighten the arm hex nut, or to loosen to insert a washer between the nut and frame before tightening).

1x washer (I used a washer that was inner hole diameter 9/32 inch, outer diameter 5/8 inch. Shaft bolt was about 1/4 inch, so 9/32 inner washer diameter is slightly larger to clear it)

1x seam ripper (this will definitely make cutting the seams way easier)

1x sewing needle (to sew up the inner white fabric back up at the shoulder.

1x roll of thread (I used white all-purpose polyester thread)

1x thin straight scissors (I used scissors on a Swiss army knife since they were very thin (less cut ripping on the foam).)
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1) Remove Head
2) Unzip back outer skin cloth Position arms straight down
3) Slip both sides of cloth skin down over the shoulders.
4) Position both arms down straight and towards crotch.
5) Bring both sides of cloth down to midway on the upper arm.
6) Rotate both arms inward towards center and raise slightly. Pick the side that needs repair and bend elbow to form a 90 degree. Move upper arm towards chest to reduce the length of travel for the cloth from the bottom of the zipper to where the arm is located.
7) Once Cloth is past the elbow, begin working the arm away from the cloth cover by bending the arm and elbow so that the elbow travels outwards to the side. This should be similar to taking off the sleeves of a long sleeve clothing now. (Note that the upper stitching holding the skin to the center chest between the breasts as well as the stitching at the side of the under section of the breast silicone cups will be stretched and the seams may be slightly pulled here. The skin for the most part should only have minimal stretching.
8 ) Elbow should now be free of the cloth. The rest of the arm might be able to be removed from the cloth, but can be done without. However, removing the outer skin cloth from the arm may be better to fix the arm without having noticeable stitching marks. (Allows for the shoulder seams to be exposed and the inner white foam retention cloth to be undone at the shoulders instead of along arm. The shoulders seams are indented inward, so rough stitching will be less noticeable.)
9) Unstitch the white cloth filling retention layer. Note that the foam below will then be exposed. Keep in mind that re-stitching this white cloth may not be the same as factory using a straight needle depending on your sewing ability and tools on hand. A seam ripper will be useful in unstitching, but small thin profile scissors can also work. This can also be done at the shoulder if the outer skin layer has been removed for the entire arm.
10) If removing the arm, straighten out the arm and proceed to unstitch at the shoulder. Roll the white inner foam retention cloth down past the elbow.
11) Make necessary incisions/cuts into the foam to access the frame. The foam is glued down to the frame, so there is little other way to access the nuts/bolts.
12) Roll down the white foam retention cloth to where it needs to clear. In this case, if needing to fix the elbow, roll down the cloth past the elbow.
13) Unravel the soft batting (cloth fluff) back on the part that needs fixing. In my case, I found that it was wrapped over the foam, so I just unraveled it back.
14) Trim the frame foam padding at the elbow (will be re-glued afterwards if desired). Note that the 2nd incision in the pictures to expose the upper arm frame is not necessary to tightening the elbow joint.
15) Check connectors for loose fittings. Tighten, add parts, etc as necessary. Suggest tighten on nut side and not the hex bolt head side. A 10mm hex socket should work for this. Loosen the hex nut, added in a washer, then retightened on the 10mm hex nut back on. During the tightening process, check the arm movement at the elbow for movement. Once satisfied with the tightness, proceed to the next step. Note that the nut/bolt at the elbow will tighten the folding movement. The top nut/bolt further up on the upper arm frame is there to keep the elbow joint and lower arm from falling out. Tightening it does not seem to fix any wobble in the arm in any noticeable difference.
16) Reverse the steps so that you can glue the foam back (or leave it open for future fixing), re-wrap the soft batting (cloth fluff), roll up the white foam retention cloth to the shoulder, fold over cloth towards the core of the arm to cover all the foam, sew back the white cloth at the shoulder, re-insert arm into the skin cloth (arm needs to be near chest and bent 90 degrees), work the cloth back to the mid upper arm section, then pull the skin cloth back over the shoulders.
17) Repeat similar steps for other arm if needed.
18) Other joints such as ankle, knee, hip, shoulder, neck, and back are unknown as to how to tighten at this point based on repair. Joint at shoulder can be exposed since the foam cover for the arm stops at that point.

Pictures below for visual (continued onto next post):
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LuvAnimeGirlz
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Re: Fabric Anime Doll 160cm arm repair (& also Dagmar Doll)

Post by LuvAnimeGirlz »

(Picture steps continued)
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Shoulder seams
Shoulder seams
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Arm/elbow seams
Arm/elbow seams
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LuvAnimeGirlz
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Re: Fabric Anime Doll 160cm arm repair (& also Dagmar Doll)

Post by LuvAnimeGirlz »

(continued part 2)
Attachments
roll down inner fabric covering
roll down inner fabric covering
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cotton batting cover exposed
cotton batting cover exposed
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peel back cotton batting
peel back cotton batting
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making incision at elbow.  hex bolt on either top or bottom, and the nut on the opposite side.  full length cut not necessary.
making incision at elbow. hex bolt on either top or bottom, and the nut on the opposite side. full length cut not necessary.
_IGP8646.jpg (242.95 KiB) Viewed 3049 times
View of arm elbow joint.  hex bolt on either top or bottom, and the nut on the opposite side.  full length cut not necessary.
View of arm elbow joint. hex bolt on either top or bottom, and the nut on the opposite side. full length cut not necessary.
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gonestill77
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Re: Fabric Anime Doll 160cm arm repair (& also Dagmar Doll)

Post by gonestill77 »

Incredible. Thank you.
Eve- 2016 Sanhui 145
Lucinda- 2015 DS 163 plus

Eves thread http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=261&t=70866
Lucinda's thread viewtopic.php?f=143&t=128707
My doll cleaning and drying video viewtopic.php?f=7&t=127010
Eve and Lucinda's thread viewtopic.php?f=87&t=129480
Eve and Lucinda's dirty movies. viewtopic.php?f=87&t=126968

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r363b
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Re: Fabric Anime Doll 160cm arm repair (& also Dagmar Doll)

Post by r363b »

looks like the foam is molded/formed over the skeleton such that it can not be removed .. I guess this is the reason why you need to cut it free vs roll it down the arm.

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matt gloss
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Re: Fabric Anime Doll 160cm arm repair (& also Dagmar Doll)

Post by matt gloss »

Thanks great stuff
MG

ThatGuyWhoIs
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Re: Fabric Anime Doll 160cm arm repair (& also Dagmar Doll)

Post by ThatGuyWhoIs »

As this is the only thread I've been able to find regarding repairs on happy doll's fabric dolls, I'll post a finding regarding the Dagmar.

I've just tried to repair my Dagmars dolls knee, as it was quite loose and the knee bend in two spots, instead of one as is normal.

To put it simple, it sucks big time to repair. Instead of it being one joint, it's three gears connected to one another. As a result of the bracket on which they are mounted, have become slightly bent, the gears no longer connect correctly. However, as the gears are inside plastic tubing and foam, they are more or less impossible to access without cutting open the whole knee. It should be noted, that it is not possible to tighten the gears more than they are, as there are no bolts or anything similar to tighten.

So if anyone experience something similar to my problem, think long and hard before trying to repair it, as it might not be possible without scaring the knee area.

And no, I was unable to fix the problem, as I did not want to cut the whole knee open. :(

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