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An Update on Making My Doll

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samara78
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Re: An Update on Making My Doll

Post by samara78 »

Really really cool. Best of luck.
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Re: An Update on Making My Doll

Post by Omega_Vato »

samara78 wrote:Really really cool. Best of luck.
Thank you so much and I really hope to do well with this. :) :)
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Re: An Update on Making My Doll

Post by rubherkitty »

Looks great! :thumbs_up:

As far as a foam core, I would just use swimming pool noodles or foam water pipe insulating tubing over the skeleton. Foam cores for silicone dolls are cast on the skeleton in their own mold.
A lot of work for a one off project.

If you are going to mess w/a fiberglass mother mold, I would just make a fiberglass mold.
The pros cast their dolls in fiberglass molds vs a silicone mold plus mother mold.
They use a special hard gel coat on the plug called a tooling coat vs just regular gel.
Then they build up w/ std fiberglass cloth and resin.
The tooling gel is only needed if you are going to cast a lot of dolls.
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Omega_Vato
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Re: An Update on Making My Doll

Post by Omega_Vato »

rubherkitty wrote:Looks great! :thumbs_up:

As far as a foam core, I would just use swimming pool noodles or foam water pipe insulating tubing over the skeleton. Foam cores for silicone dolls are cast on the skeleton in their own mold.
A lot of work for a one off project.

If you are going to mess w/a fiberglass mother mold, I would just make a fiberglass mold.
The pros cast their dolls in fiberglass molds vs a silicone mold plus mother mold.
They use a special hard gel coat on the plug called a tooling coat vs just regular gel.
Then they build up w/ std fiberglass cloth and resin.
The tooling gel is only needed if you are going to cast a lot of dolls.
I know I might use clay around the sculpt and I know I need to make registration keys for it. So I can cast any doll without using a silicone mold as a base? Also, what type of tooling gel coat that would allow the silicone to mold out of?
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Re: An Update on Making My Doll

Post by Omega_Vato »

So I was thinking about reducing the cost for the build and Rubberkitty has stated to just do a full fiberglass mold with tooling coat. I have watched YouTube videos of the process and I think I can go for it, all I just need to get is a drill and buy some nuts and bolts. I am also thinking about adding magnets to the fiberglass mold so it can hold in place along with drilling for added support. As I am gearing towards the end of sculpting, although I still need to do the head, there's one thing that's on my mind: To have a skeleton or not to have a skeleton? The doll will not have a skeleton (sorry Rubberkitty) as I am thinking that this will be a flexible doll.

I have also started thinking about just a full urethane foam doll without a silicone skin, but due to the warnings about the material even though it's soft and lightweight, the risk may not even be worth it. I then started thinking about just using liquid latex. I'm not allergic to latex whatsoever and it's not nearly expensive as silicone (I'll do a silicone version later whenever my finances can manage it). Hopefully this project will turn out alright and I will update you on the cost ASAP. Cheers!
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Re: An Update on Making My Doll

Post by rubherkitty »

Sorry I missed the Oct 9th post.

Not sure where to get the tool coat gel. Just Google it.

I plan to make my doll model out of a fiberglass mannequin and use some bondo for body mods.
Problem w/ fiberglass and clay is fiberglass creates heat when it cures and could distort a clay model.

A no skeleton doll is fine, but it will be very floppy depending upon how soft the silicone is.

I have not studied into molding urethane foam so no advice.

Latex. Latex and silicone are enemies. I don't think you can cast latex in a silicone mold? And if you cast Latex in a mold, you may not be able to use that mold for silicone later.
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Re: An Update on Making My Doll

Post by Omega_Vato »

rubherkitty wrote:Sorry I missed the Oct 9th post.

Not sure where to get the tool coat gel. Just Google it.

I plan to make my doll model out of a fiberglass mannequin and use some bondo for body mods.
Problem w/ fiberglass and clay is fiberglass creates heat when it cures and could distort a clay model.

A no skeleton doll is fine, but it will be very floppy depending upon how soft the silicone is.

I have not studied into molding urethane foam so no advice.

Latex. Latex and silicone are enemies. I don't think you can cast latex in a silicone mold? And if you cast Latex in a mold, you may not be able to use that mold for silicone later.

Well.... Then I suppose just latex will do and I am searching for tooling gel coat plus hardener as I'm writing this; Some YouTube users recommend that I use a sprayer for the gel coat to spray over the sculpture. I would also clarify that I'm just going to use liquid latex inside the fiberglass mold than on a silicone mold.

When I saw on the Smooth-On webpage about a pourable foam that's like memory foam, I thought about wanting to use that so I don't have to buy liquid latex or silicone. However, if it's possible to fully cast the doll in foam I can paint silicone on the front half of the fiberglass mold and then the back and use that as the skin for the foam doll. Or, maybe not.
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Re: An Update on Making My Doll

Post by rubherkitty »

Yeah, you can make a silicone doll w/a foam core.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prQ3cr-hMYc
You will see the pulled head w/ some cuts, but those are intended.

If you have to mail order supplies, you might consider Brick in the Yard.
They do a lot more info vids then Smooth-on ever thought about.
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Re: An Update on Making My Doll

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rubherkitty wrote:Yeah, you can make a silicone doll w/a foam core.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prQ3cr-hMYc
You will see the pulled head w/ some cuts, but those are intended.

If you have to mail order supplies, you might consider Brick in the Yard.
They do a lot more info vids then Smooth-on ever thought about.

I always watch Brick in the Yard videos and I am considering buying from them for silicone and foam. The tricky part is after fiberglass casting I need to brush the silicone on one half of the mold and then the other half and then combining them together. As for the foam... I do know I need to create spouts to pour the foam core. The only caveat is where to individually place them. Also, do I need to buy two gallons of Poly Foam or one? :?

There is always just pouring liquid latex in the fiberglass mold for a 100% latex doll. All I need is use baby powder and airbrush for painting. Decisions, decisions...
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Re: An Update on Making My Doll

Post by rubherkitty »

RE: Magnets. I guess you are talking about embedding magnets in the molds to help hold them together? I would not myself. That's more cost & work. Plus molds are generally hard to get apart once something is cast inside. You may not even need to bolt the halves together. Just use grip clamps or C-clamps.
doll mold.PNG
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RE: Brushing in silicone. You might need help for time sake. Maybe you could hire a college art student on the cheap?

RE: Foam. I would pour through the head or neck stump. Candy18, used to have 2 pour holes in the shoulders of their dolls, but that was not liked very well. Maybe they had a problem getting the arms filled? The holes could be covered by trimming the foam down into the hole and applying a skin coat of silicone to fill, but you really need a place for the air to exit and re-enter the doll as you can't have it sealed up tight and still wrestle it around for sex. Maybe a 3/8" silicone skin doll could handle being sealed or have just a small amount of vent. C18 dolls were a thin skinned doll of a mysterious Urethane/ Silicone blend " which doesn't sound right" and were subject to tearing easy.
Maybe pour and vent through the bottom of the feet, unless you want the feet to be perfect.
I like dolls w/ socks, stockings, footwear, etc myself.

Foam amount. The sellers have a density and volume formula you have to go by to order the correct item and amount. You may have to fill your mold with rice or something and pour into a container you can measure. Bon Appetit!
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Re: An Update on Making My Doll

Post by MannequinFan »

Omega_Vato wrote:There is always just pouring liquid latex in the fiberglass mold for a 100% latex doll. All I need is use baby powder and airbrush for painting. Decisions, decisions...
Hi OV,

Latex needs to air dry in order to cure, so I don't think it will work in a fiberglass mold.
Usually plaster molds are used with latex so the water is absorbed by the plaster.
And, as RK mentioned, you won't be able to use the mold for platinum silicone if you've had latex in it.

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Re: An Update on Making My Doll

Post by rubherkitty »

Thanks MF for keeping an eye on this thread.
I know you've researched doll making some and so have I, but I don't have much real world experience. I would rather be silent than give incorrect advice, but help/ideas for would be doll makers here is slim.

The reason I want to do a fiberglass model/ plug is I'm familiar with fiberglass and bondo. It is also very shelf stable. I can get out the model 10 yrs from now and make another mold if I need too.
I can always cut away or graft in changes to the model fairly easy without mucking up the rest of it.
I can also use existing mannequin parts for 85% of the model. Plus, a hollow fiberglass mannequin is much lighter than a solid clay model if you work from clay only.
But clay is fine too if you can keep it safe. I live a cluttered, hazardous lifestyle and would probably drop a 20lb Oak log on my finished model. Much easier to make changes w/ clay over fiberglass/ bondo too.
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Re: An Update on Making My Doll

Post by Omega_Vato »

MannequinFan wrote:
Omega_Vato wrote:There is always just pouring liquid latex in the fiberglass mold for a 100% latex doll. All I need is use baby powder and airbrush for painting. Decisions, decisions...
Hi OV,

Latex needs to air dry in order to cure, so I don't think it will work in a fiberglass mold.
Usually plaster molds are used with latex so the water is absorbed by the plaster.
And, as RK mentioned, you won't be able to use the mold for platinum silicone if you've had latex in it.
Thanks MannequinFan for that. I was only thinking about it and I wasn't going to go that route with latex. Doll making sure is a challenge LOL! However, as an artist I want to be able to try it and see how it goes and since this is my first time doing this I want to get it right. Of course I know it won't be perfect, but I'll do my best.
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Re: An Update on Making My Doll

Post by Omega_Vato »

rubherkitty wrote:RE: Magnets. I guess you are talking about embedding magnets in the molds to help hold them together? I would not myself. That's more cost & work. Plus molds are generally hard to get apart once something is cast inside. You may not even need to bolt the halves together. Just use grip clamps or C-clamps.
doll mold.PNG
RE: Brushing in silicone. You might need help for time sake. Maybe you could hire a college art student on the cheap?

RE: Foam. I would pour through the head or neck stump. Candy18, used to have 2 pour holes in the shoulders of their dolls, but that was not liked very well. Maybe they had a problem getting the arms filled? The holes could be covered by trimming the foam down into the hole and applying a skin coat of silicone to fill, but you really need a place for the air to exit and re-enter the doll as you can't have it sealed up tight and still wrestle it around for sex. Maybe a 3/8" silicone skin doll could handle being sealed or have just a small amount of vent. C18 dolls were a thin skinned doll of a mysterious Urethane/ Silicone blend " which doesn't sound right" and were subject to tearing easy.
Maybe pour and vent through the bottom of the feet, unless you want the feet to be perfect.
I like dolls w/ socks, stockings, footwear, etc myself.

Foam amount. The sellers have a density and volume formula you have to go by to order the correct item and amount. You may have to fill your mold with rice or something and pour into a container you can measure. Bon Appetit!
For magnets, I wasn't going to put lots of them everywhere, I was thinking of placing them in key areas. Or even Velcro straps (That might not work). When it comes to clamps, I don't want to get expensive ones because I want to keep it at $800 maximum. If I buy a drill with nuts and bolts it would cost me $50 if I just get a standard drill (FYI: I'm a novice with hardware). So, let's just forget the magnets because that's just a thought. I will ONLY get cheap clamps.

As for hiring a college student... No. I work 100% alone. Trust issues mostly (although I do learn from this site as well from users like you and MannequinFan and I thank you for the advice) So I will use both of my hands and brush the silicone on both halves. Also, not within my budget. It might be hard work, but I will do it.
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Re: An Update on Making My Doll

Post by rubherkitty »

C-clamps just save time. You can get 1" - 2" c-clamps for $2.00 ea.
If you're not doing production or paying an employee's time, nuts & bolts are fine.

Painting silicone. As you're doing a smaller doll, if you work fast you should be OK.
Going downtown. Gonna see my gal. Gonna sing her a song. I'm gonna show her my ding dong! C&C

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