Installing electronics that rotate the eyeballs

neutrino · Post by **neutrino** » Fri Jul 20, 2018 12:06 pm

Ok, this idea of mine I think should apply to everybody with a sex doll and they should be interested. Wouldn't your sex doll seem 5 times more alive-looking if her eyeballs were to rotate every now and then while you have sex with her? After a few minutes, her eyeballs rotate upwards as she feels her G-spot (or decides to look at your in the face if she is giving you a blowjob). Her eyes then rotate to the right, and then to the normal position, etc... Try to imagine this happening next time you spend quality time with your doll. I think you will agree that she suddenly seems more alive.

Ok, so how to make this happen? If you look at the attached picture, rotating the eyes simply means moving the rear pegs of the eyeballs left, right, up, down. You could actually do that with your fingers, but of course you don't want to have to dig into her face during sex. You can see that there is plenty of space behind the eyeballs for some electronic components to be placed. The mouth sleeve may take away some of that space, but there will certainly be still enough space for those electronic parts if their function is only to rotate the eyeballs (if more functionality is desired, like jaw movements and other facial/head movements, then the mouth sleeve would probably have to be sacrificed, like DSDoll admits about their electronic heads). 3D-printed parts can be made to physically hold the electronic components in place.

Now how to build the components? That's where I need the help of electronics experts here. We don't want to pay some $2000+ to some doll company to make it for us (plus shipping the head to them and waiting god knows how long to get it back). Something simple like eye movements, I think most of us are willing to make ourselves if we knew how, knowing that the material cost should pretty minimal. I can help write any code that might be needed and share it here. The beta version that I want to build first is one where you control the eyeball movements yourself by moving some sort of switch that will be beside you. I know it is not cool to be pressing buttons or moving joysticks around during sex, but this version will be a test of concept only. Once satisfied with the results and the experience, then the next version I would like to build is one where the movements are not controlled by you but by some remote device that makes the eyeball movements randomly, perhaps with some settings beforehand to determine how often her eyeballs move.

Ok, so now I appeal to the experts here on how to build it exactly. Doll manufacturers I don't think would want to give away their secrets. We can team up and give all the detailed instructions here so that anyone interested can build it with very little cost and no sacrifice to the doll's appearance or functionality. So any electronic experts here?

neutrino · Post by **neutrino** » Fri Jul 20, 2018 10:18 pm

Anyone? Is it really that complex? I'm not asking the entire head to be robotic, only the eyes.

mark81 · Post by **mark81** » Sat Jul 21, 2018 6:07 am

Search for "gazeroid" and judge yourself whether it complex or not.

viewtopic.php?p=1193001#p1193001

neutrino · Post by **neutrino** » Sat Jul 21, 2018 11:05 am

mark81 wrote:Search for "gazeroid" and judge yourself whether it complex or not.

viewtopic.php?p=1193001#p1193001

Thanks for the link! I joined TDF after that thread, so didn't know about it. At least we have a starting point. Let's post BigBurrito's photos of his project while we try to get him to contribute directly. As I predicted, the mechanism to rotate eyeballs should be able to fit into the forehead volume without affecting the mouth sleeve.

neutrino · Post by **neutrino** » Sat Jul 21, 2018 11:10 am

Some useful quotes from BigBurrito:

"The head has a ways to go, got the eyes in and use a RC remote for now. That's a way old pic of my first gen build. love to install in a WM head, but the routing of the oral tube makes it difficult. Still nothing holding me back but me, I'll get past it anyway. Just got a Micro Maestro 6 channel servo controller I will try out. The eyes in the WM heads are a big problem for me right now, a pain to position.

craig22835: The InMoov open source project has a 3d printable eye assembly. Do a search for "inmoov eye assembly". It is compact enough that it should fit. They have Jaw and neck control setups but that would require major surgery on the doll. You probably should find quiet servos because the noise would get annoying.

BigBurrito: Thanks, good stuff here, now just got to get a 3D printer. MannequinFan has a great setup for the WM head eye fix: https://youtu.be/H1aMTvRIt8I

BigBurrito · Post by **BigBurrito** » Sat Jul 21, 2018 11:59 am

Iv'e been so busy doing motorcycle builds, being in the mountains here, but you are sparking my interest in moving forward with automatic eyes in the WM heads. I already have the jaw servo mech figured out, and using a Pololu Micro Maestro, and fairly easy to program, 2 micro servos for the eyes mounted to the skull back, with flexable RC cables going through the front eye area, and i made a ball link in the eye for a pivot, mounted to a base (needs refined) but i'll share what i'll be doing when i resume my work soon. Thanks for your interest

neutrino · Post by **neutrino** » Sat Jul 21, 2018 12:07 pm

BigBurrito wrote:Iv'e been so busy doing motorcycle builds, being in the mountains here, but you are sparking my interest in moving forward with automatic eyes in the WM heads. I already have the jaw servo mech figured out, and using a Pololu Micro Maestro, and fairly easy to program, 2 micro servos for the eyes mounted to the skull back, with flexable RC cables going through the front eye area, and i made a ball link in the eye for a pivot, mounted to a base (needs refined) but i'll share what i'll be doing when i resume my work soon. Thanks for your interest

Nice of you to join! In the meantime, I stumbled upon this YouTube video that shows the entire building process (and a link to all the STL parts to 3D-print):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibZgKFSIYjg

Of course, I was very intrigued. As predicted, the material cost is really cheap. Even if you don't have a 3D-printer, you can find 3D-printing hubs to print the parts for you (and if you already do have a 3D-printer, then we are talking just pennies for the 3D-printed parts). But at the end of the video, I was disappointed by all the NOISE that is made when the eyeballs rotate. That noise is not acceptable to hear during sex! I just saved my self many hours before embarking on every step in that video. These other videos also feature too much noise in the eye rotation:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdHVS0dpmdQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xEqbry2gFk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcFthYR0cmM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jqvu_MQ5pc

Is there a way to build rotating eyes that are silent???

neutrino · Post by **neutrino** » Sat Jul 21, 2018 12:43 pm

Despite the previous videos demonstrating how much noise rotating the eyes makes, this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZzDeMUAT_g

seems to show very little sounds in rotating. No, they did not disable the audio and replace it with music, as the demonstrator is talking during the demo (without music). This sound level is acceptable, I think, and it can be masked by playing music in your room if necessary. Am I missing something here? Some robotic eyes are noisy, while some can be made fairly silent? Can someone tell me how this can be before I embark on the full project? I don't want to spend countless hours on this only to realize that it will be noisy no matter how I build it.

Also, all the video demonstrations are using outside manual control (e.g. with joysticks) to move the eyeballs. Of course, we don't want to be doing that during sex. My underlying premise behind this entire project is that you should be able to develop some remote source (e.g. your laptop with a random-setting program that has some settings to control how often the eyes rotate) that will make the eyeballs ROTATE ON THEIR OWN, randomly but on their own. Is that assumption correct first of all? Because if that underlying assumption is false, the entire project is dead from the get go. We don't want to be moving joysticks during sex.

mark81 · Post by **mark81** » Tue Jul 24, 2018 12:13 pm

Maybe use miniature stepper motors instead of servos?

https://www.banggood.com/ru/Machifit-2- ... 80040.html

BigBurrito · Post by **BigBurrito** » Thu Aug 02, 2018 10:51 am

I'm looking on mounting the servos on the lower sides of the oral tube, with double control horns. Servo A will control the up and down, servo B will do side to side using 256 flex control cable, 2 for each servo, total of 4, as the outer casing of the cable will be fixed to the skull behind the eye socket, which i will solder paper clip wire to the cable that will go to the eye. I plan on slitting an opening in the back of the eye socket of the TPE head so the eyes can be inserted through the socket when mounting the heat on the skull. The eye pivot, a RC truck U joint will be mounted to the skull, which will have dept adjustment as well as the separation distance of the eyes. Too bad i can't use one underskull for all my heads, being they come in different sizes, ie the one for WM 38 is larger than WM 15. I haven't started work on this yet, but will get on it in the next couple weeks, and will surely share my progress and hopefully not, my fails

neutrino · Post by **neutrino** » Thu Aug 02, 2018 12:30 pm

BigBurrito wrote:I'm looking on mounting the servos on the lower sides of the oral tube, with double control horns. Servo A will control the up and down, servo B will do side to side using 256 flex control cable, 2 for each servo, total of 4, as the outer casing of the cable will be fixed to the skull behind the eye socket, which i will solder paper clip wire to the cable that will go to the eye. I plan on slitting an opening in the back of the eye socket of the TPE head so the eyes can be inserted through the socket when mounting the heat on the skull. The eye pivot, a RC truck U joint will be mounted to the skull, which will have dept adjustment as well as the separation distance of the eyes. Too bad i can't use one underskull for all my heads, being they come in different sizes, ie the one for WM 38 is larger than WM 15. I haven't started work on this yet, but will get on it in the next couple weeks, and will surely share my progress and hopefully not, my fails

Please share with pictures too. What will control the servos though? Joysticks? Sensors attached to her body? Or ideally with some coding, a laptop?

BigBurrito · Post by **BigBurrito** » Fri Aug 03, 2018 10:13 am

Sensors, possibly raspberry PI, pressure switches in G zones. Already have the servo controller, and the 123 audio board, but looking for some type of advanced AI programming. Also would like to get the eye lids to move as well. Already got the mouth to open on it's own. Check my tread "Getting ahead WM jaw mod" May find a way to link the prepossessing power of a full on computer, possibly a micro ATX or smaller motherboard inside the doll, using lippo power and step down regulators to power the system. But my biggest challenge is software, and code for the AI.

neutrino · Post by **neutrino** » Fri Aug 03, 2018 12:01 pm

Oh, yeah. Blinking eyelids. That would be second on my to-do list once the rotating eyeballs were set to work. However, I'm a bit confused, not about the mechanics, but about the silicone itself. The silicone is glued to the plastic eyelids underneath, and they will close only if the silicone is stretchy enough. This works with the TPE or the silicone that sex dolls use. Not hyper-realistic skin type of silicone, but nevertheless stretchy and soft. But when you use the most realistic human flesh looking silicone, like Platsil Gel-10, the silicone eyelids will not close even if you use your fingers to force them to close. These silicones are pretty hard to the touch, but if it is just the face and not the body, I deem it is ok if it gives a more realistic look. So basically, you cannot use those Hollywood type of silicones if you want blinking eyelids, am I right?

Or perhaps make the silicone face with eyelids already closed, then the eyelids get open when the plastic eyelids underneath are opened (by default), and then closing the eyelids will be readily available since the silicone eyelids were already closed when casted? That is, pushing silicone is easier than pulling? Also, I've read that Smooth-On Dragon Skin is just about as hyper-realistic looking as the Hollywood types of silicones (more realistic looking than the sex doll silicones for sure) while being very stretchy.