Heat molding TPE nipples?

[macboy2]

I have a WM doll that I wish had a bit more texture to the nipples, they're just "bumps" really. I have the skills required to create molds and metal dies etc and so am wondering if anyone has ever heat set details/textures into an existing doll and if it is safe to do so or will it negatively impact the integrity of the TPE in those areas? My thought is something akin to a branding iron but with a closely monitored/controlled temperature like from a soldering workstation heat gun. Would the TPE stick to a metal or plaster die? Could some sort of release oil be used to prevent that from happening? I do have some spare inserts that I'll be using to test stuff like Chartpaks, hair insertion etc but thought I'd ask here in case others have been down this road already.

[Wheezer]

There have been several posts about creating nipples, ranging from using molten TPE, using TPE paste and sculpting the nipple in place.

If you want to hot melt and cast TPE, then you could look HERE (viewtopic.php?p=2213588)
If you want to use TPE paste to create nipples, a good start is HERE (viewtopic.php?t=154504) or HERE (viewtopic.php?t=131728)
Another option is to sculpt and adjust the nipple/areola area TPE while it is on the doll. Some examples are HERE (viewtopic.php?p=2331620#p2331620) and HERE (viewtopic.php?p=2339567#p2339567)

I have made metal molds for nipples and used those to make new ones nips and fuse them to the base breast.
You CAN do it, but it tricky getting a good bond. Issues from making sure the breast does not deform, preventing searing the mold into the breast and making a mark and the correct heat/pressure combination to insure a thorough bond to the substrate.

What I have found works well is to obtain or make a nipple master and then make a mold from that to cast a replacement to add to your doll.
Creating a master is not too hard, just some clay sculpting. You can size it and shape it to get what you want, plus smooth it to give a nice organic effect.
Multiple silicones nipples are available that are the correct size and have details that are appealing to many, so that is also a good option.

Once you have your completed nipple replacement, then you can attach it with 3M 94 primer and do any blending with 3M 94 or careful applications of heat.

At this point I would suggest looking at the posts and searching.
Any unanswered questions could then be easily addressed.

Cheers!
... W ...

[macboy2]

That's fantastic. Thanks for taking the time to dig those up - I appreciate it.

[macboy2]

Brilliant. This is exactly what I'm thinking. Did you just melt new TPE around the nipple and sculpt it in or is this the result of the heated die? (Or both?)

[Wheezer]

Those were directly sculpted onto the existing TPE nipples using the soldering tools I referenced.

Small bits of extra TPE were heat fused to the current nipple to enlarge. A fine tip was used to add areola texture. A wider tip was used to shape and round the nipple. Heat trimming to adjust the final height. A bit more work to blend and add detail. A wee bit of 3M brushed on to add some ripple and texture. Finish with a gentle hot air application to final fuse any open areas. Color with small amount of various oil paint. Heat set that for permanence.

Boom ... done.
Cheers!
... W ...

[macboy2]

I'm amazed. Just wading through the 70 or so pages on the 3m Primer. You all are amazing.

[macboy2]

Is there a way to stiffen the TPE at the nipple so it's a bit firmer akin to real life? I imagine you could sculpt the TPE around a safe substrate like a hard rubber "nub" or something? Of course it's got to be done in a chemically safe way so that mouth play won't be a toxic undertaking.

[Wheezer]

You can hot attach a firmer blend of TPE for a harder nipple and then blend in softer TPE for the areola and such.
Encapsulating a small amount of a foreign material, such as rubber, etc., might not work too well. You would not have a lot of TPE surrounding it and it would be weak.
Defiantly a concern if you are nibbling on the nips and the doll can't say OUCH or physically regrow damaged bits, like human.

One option that has worked for me to make pokies is wire insulation.

Get some soft flexible wire close to your target size. I used some super flexible silicone probe wire.
Strip the inner wire and keep the external insulation. Melt a hole in the center of the nip and insert insulation.
Use caution when making your hole if you have gel breasts. Seal up and detail when done.
Before inserting test the insulation material. Place it on your TPE and wait a day or two to see if it reacts.

Using the insert method avoids the weakness issue you get with bonding small amounts in a high stress area.
Plus if you get too active, the insulation tube gives you a bit of an anchor.

Cheers!
... W ...

[timetraveler1]

very cool and looks like you did a good job ! always interesting to see people be able to modify tpe and make dolls better.

[macboy2]

I have a feeling my test insert is gonna look like it has a rare and very transmissible disease due to the myriad of growths which anyone on this forum would know to be "test nipples" but anyone else would run screaming.

Of course if I do things right I could invert the insert and use it as my own hypernodule stamina training unit.

Or meat tenderizer.

[rbngdfllw]

Would it not be simpler to use a skin-like liquid latex with the desired tint and just build up layers? Of course, you might need an adhesive promoter as the initial layer (or maybe a thin coat of rubber cement paint. Plus, you can place a "solid form" with mold release compound in the middle. Paint up and around it. Let the latex set, remove the form, and then pour in a latex mix with the desired firmness/softness for the core. Finish painting and texturing over top of it.