TPE glue
TPE glue
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Re: TEP glue
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Re: TEP glue
From the hobby/model making sources you can use Plastruct Bondine adhesive cement, it's a solvent adhesive that if I'm not mistaken is exactly what you get when you buy a thimble of for $15+ you get two oz's for $5, enough for a lifetime of doll ownership.
Used it and seems to work fine with no issues.
Re: TEP glue
Fantastic,Fantastic Plastic wrote:Just thought I would throw my two cents in.
From the hobby/model making sources you can use Plastruct Bondine adhesive cement, it's a solvent adhesive that if I'm not mistaken is exactly what you get when you buy a thimble of for $15+ you get two oz's for $5, enough for a lifetime of doll ownership.
Used it and seems to work fine with no issues.
I have been trying to figure out what the TPE glue they are selling for absurd amounts really is. You've used this PLastruct bondine and had similar results as the "TPE glue"?
This the stuff you're referring to?
https://www.amazon.com/Plastruct-PLASTR ... B0006O09M4
Thanks,
GTH
Re: TEP glue
Re: TEP glue
My poor baby is tears in her vagina and anus. Am I supposed to use the clear liquid labeled "glue" to fix it? And what is the wintergreen smelling stuff?
Re: TEP glue
Check this site for handy information.
http://nerfhaven.com/forums/topic/18527 ... g-plastic/
I tried solvent welding on TPE scrap to experiment. The method achieved a bond, but the bond wasn't as strong as the original material.
I've been watching for better results on this forum. Currently, there's been some success with a substance referred to as filler, but I don't know how strong the adhesion is.
Edit:
It can't hurt to verify ingredients and view information on the MSDS. Here's for Plastruct plastic weld. (the one I tried)
http://plastruct.com/wp-content/uploads ... _PPC_2.pdf
Here's for Plastruct bondene
http://plastruct.com/wp-content/uploads ... BOND_2.pdf
Kleanstrip is not intended to be used as an adhesive, but the ingredients are what matter.
http://www.kleanstrip.com/uploads/docum ... 015.34.pdf
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Re: TEP glue
im fairly certain the toothpaste (ish) smelling thing is stain remover. i think there was thread discussing whitening toothpaste as a stain remover as it contains a similar compound(do further research on that)TheNutz wrote:I have a related question. I recently bought a 100 cm wm doll and she came with 3 things: A small container of what smells like wintergreen mint O_o. A small thing of "nail glue" which is self explanatory. And a small container that says "glue" which is a clear liquid.
My poor baby is tears in her vagina and anus. Am I supposed to use the clear liquid labeled "glue" to fix it? And what is the wintergreen smelling stuff?
Re: TEP glue
The white container with the wintergreen smelling creme is the "original TPE stain remover".
The smelling comes from methyl salicylate (wintergreen oil).
Here you can see a bottle of methyl salicylate that I used for tests:
The German name is Methylsalicylat / Salicylsäuremethylester.
About methyl salicylate:
It is dangerous goods
It is used in small amounts as a flavor for rootbeer, mint dragess (Tic Tac), snus tabacco, etc.
In a bit higher concentration it is used inside cremes against colds and muscle pain, because it enhances the blood circulation.
In a more higher amount it can be used as a washing detergent additive.
The contact with the human skin is toxic
The human skin absorbs methyl salicylate and a longer uptake causes stomache, renal and liver damage.
A high dose is toxic, especially when taken orally.
Wikipedia:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methyl_salicylate
About the stain remover itself:
It is not a remover.
The creme is a "bleach & push" product.
That means that the color pigments from the staining are bleached (from methyl salicylate) and pushed more deeper inside the TPE.
Together with a pharmacist (friend of mine) we made a lab analysis.
The base of the creme is paraffin.
That is the reason why TPE absorbs the creme.
The amount of methyl salicylate included in the creme is very high (more than 30%)
- Labeling and documentation handling the stain remover as dangerous goods:
The stain remover comes without label and documentation from the chinese factory.
A vendor selling that stain remover creme has the responsibility to label it as dangerous goods.
And he has to make a documentation (manual, leaflet, webside-info) about the usage of the stain remover including the
- R & S sentences (risk & savety)
- H & P sentences (hazard and precautionary)
I gave this information to several vendors in Germany, but it was not of interest.
Dollstudio in Germany does not sell that remover anymore.
- According to my pharmacist and because of the situation that there is no documentation, here are the risk & safety recommendations:
+ Avoid skin contact and wear protective gloves
+ Do not get the stain remover creme on your skin, into the eyes and in your mouth, call the doctor if that happened
+ Do not get in contact with a TPE doll that has the stain remover creme applied
+ Do only get in contact with a TPE doll if the creme is completely removed and if there is no smell of methyl salicylate left, wash the location several times with soap and water
+ Store the creme out of the reach from children
+ Do not heat the creme and inhale the vapor
There are also some recommendations about the usage of mineral spirits, odorless mineral spirits, paint thinner, etc. as stain remover.
Do not use that
It harms TPE, makes it dry and / or disolves the structure.
And because of the situation, that color pigments are disolved in solvents itself, you are able to create a permanent color staining.
If you are looking for a real stain remover, that is made of water-soluble components, absolutely save, stronger in function and higher in amount (35ml):
http://us.dollstudio.org/products/acces ... in-remover
Now you understand, why I developed a real stain remover.
--------------------------------------------------
About the TPE glue:
Here we have similar problems.
There is no labeling as dangerous goods and no information about the risk & safety recommendations.
The bottle is made of PET and the sealing cap has a thin aluminium sealing washer.
The bottle is not air-tight.
Some vendors providing a documentation and / or do have information about the usage on their websides.
"TPE glue" is a very strong and very aggressive solvent compound.
The term "glue" is wrong and leads to misunderstandings.
The correct term should be "TPE cold-welding adhesive" (Diffusion adhesive)
The "TPE glue" disolves the structure of TPE, makes TPE liquid and due to that it starts the cold-welding process.
The disolved TPE melts together and after the vaporizing of the solvent compound, the cold-welding process is finished.
But the TPE structure is not more the same.
Most of the hard block-copolymeres are destroid during the cold-welding process.
But you are not able to feel this because the cold-welding process is made inside a cut, and therewith we have that situation only in a space of 1mm in width and in the depth of the welded cut.
The surrounding TPE material is keeping the soft feeling, if you are pressing on a repaired cut.
"TPE glue" can only be used on repair spots without material tension.
A repair under material tension is causing the effect of enlarging.
Here are some videos about the usage of "TPE glue":
Thanks to Martine Peters from Real Love Sex Dolls for providing the videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peKt6UU8Ybs
The worker is using mineral oil in preperation to relax the repair location.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u76QEtt7KlA
Wrong usage:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMr8Ozjd50M
Re: TEP glue
Soon, I will read your threads.
Reading your comment leads me to suspect that the bonds achieved using products like Plastruct are about the same as those achieved using the WM TPE glue.
Presidential Commission on Obscenity and Pornography
Does she...or doesn't she? (A slogan used by Clairol)
My dolls
Reminder to self: Still more work to do on my albums.
First photo shoot of Sandra, a Sanhui 145 cm lady doll.
[thumb]http://dollforum.com/forum/download/file.php?id=196256&t=1[/thumb]
Fun photos of my JM 110cm, Angie.
http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=196&t=74121
Re: TEP glue
At first I have to say, that the TPE material used from the chinese TPE doll manufacturers is not the same.
As examples, Jinsan, Doll House 168 and Doll Forever are completely different TPE blends.
So, if we talk about a "TPE cold-welding adhesive", we have to mention for what TPE blend we are going to use it.
The original WM Doll TPE glue works for Jinsan, but for DH 168 it does not do a very good job and for Doll Forever TPE you have no success.
Some time ago you mentioned the Plastruct cement versions inside another article.
I took the chance and downloaded the safety data sheets from the different versions to see, what kind of solvents are used.
Here are the used solvents:
PLASTRUCT PLASTIC WELD CEMENT (PPC-2)
- Dichlormethane (> Halohydrocarbon)
- Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) = 2-butanone (> Ketone) (similar to Acetone)
PLASTRUCT BONDENE CEMENT (BOND-2)
- Dichlormethane (> Halohydrocarbon)
- Methyl acetate (> Esters)
All these solvents are very "nice" to dissolve and to destroy chinese TPE material (all blends).
I have all of these chemicals and I know how the solvents are reacting.
But..."TPE cold-welding adhesive" is not only a solvent compound.
It is a compound of different solvents + TPE components.
And with TPE components I do not mean TPE granule.
TPE granule comes with a lot of stuff, that is necessary to make TPE, but not to make the adhesive.
So if you think that you are using a solvent compound and clear TPE granule, you are on the wrong way.
I developed "TPE cold-welding adhesive" for the different TPE blends and the adhesives will be released soon.
Let's make it more visual for you:
Let's say TPE is human blood.
You are talking about / trying to use saline solution.
But what we need is blood serum.
Honestly, if you are not a chemist or manufacturer for solvents, please do not do experiments.
You do not have the understanding for solvents and you do not have the necessary equipment.
And you are producing waste chemicals that have to be recycled.
Another point is that you need a license for acquiring special chemicals.
For this purpose you need a trade and for the chemicals you have to fill out the final consumer certificate.
It can happen very quickly that you are getting into the focus of authorities and that you are charged with punishment because of the wrong storage of chemicals.
Chemicals must be stored in a chemical cabinet with air exchange system (costing more than $ 400) and not in the basement or the garage.
And then there is the question whether you want to buy and store several liters of chemicals, even though you only need one bottle of 10ml "TPE glue".
And finally, "gluing" and "cold-welding" are completely different processes.
Re: TEP glue
I posted a link to the respective MSDS documents above.
Curious about what I read, I tried a couple of things I purchased at a hobby shop. I wasn't satisfied with the results, so the tiny bottles sit tightly capped in my freezer. I have repaired a couple of plastic items, so the adhesives work for their intended purpose.
I had no idea that the TPE adhesives contained any resin. Thank you for the advice and information.
Presidential Commission on Obscenity and Pornography
Does she...or doesn't she? (A slogan used by Clairol)
My dolls
Reminder to self: Still more work to do on my albums.
First photo shoot of Sandra, a Sanhui 145 cm lady doll.
[thumb]http://dollforum.com/forum/download/file.php?id=196256&t=1[/thumb]
Fun photos of my JM 110cm, Angie.
http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=196&t=74121
Re: TEP glue
Because of the smell of the WM Doll TPE glue, a lot of people think the TPE glue is made of xylene or is only pure xylene.
I call it the "xylene hype".
Xylene disolves all TPE blends used for TPE dolls, yes, that is correct.
But it does not work as an adhesive for cold-welding.
Some people say it, but believe me, if you are doing a stress test, you will see, that there was no cold welding, only a bit of dissolving and a very strong "dovetailing".
If you are doing a tension test you are able to take apart TPE that was "glued" with xylene.
The available version you can buy of xylene is the isomere compound.
Is that the version used inside the TPE glue ?
How about m-xylene, o-xylene or p-xylene ?
Believe me, that is a big difference.
Nobody mentioned that in the forum.
And do you think, that it is possible to mix a solvent compound smelling like xylene, but has no xylene ?
Yes, that is possible.
Like vanilla icecream.
And we know, that it is possible to make vanilla icecream without vanilla.
Re: TEP glue
Re: TEP glue
Isn't that loctite adhesive a cyanoacrylate adhesive?She Devil Lilith wrote:Anung asked me to pass on...speak to your doll manufacturer....that way you get the right blend of TPE glue for your doll model....he says...TPE glue is not available in the Ozzy market...but if your really stuck then.....Loctite 401 and 406 from loctite will suffice (with Loctite 770 Surface Preparation polyolefin primer)...you can find this on eBay.... but once cured you will have to treat regularly with petroleum jelly to keep supple and prevent seperation...the stuff he knows amazes me
Presidential Commission on Obscenity and Pornography
Does she...or doesn't she? (A slogan used by Clairol)
My dolls
Reminder to self: Still more work to do on my albums.
First photo shoot of Sandra, a Sanhui 145 cm lady doll.
[thumb]http://dollforum.com/forum/download/file.php?id=196256&t=1[/thumb]
Fun photos of my JM 110cm, Angie.
http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=196&t=74121