Tips for a soon-to-be DS owner?

haremlover · Post by **haremlover** » Wed Nov 01, 2017 1:09 pm

Staining is a problem on TPE but stains on silicone magically disappear. Still best avoided of course . . .

Wash dark clothes letting them soak and rinsing at least three times or until water is clear. I use a bowl and washing up liquid washing by hand, not a machine.

Best wishes

Harem

dullahan · Post by **dullahan** » Wed Nov 01, 2017 1:56 pm

haremlover wrote:Staining is a problem on TPE but stains on silicone magically disappear. Still best avoided of course . . .

Wash dark clothes letting them soak and rinsing at least three times or until water is clear. I use a bowl and washing up liquid washing by hand, not a machine.

Best wishes

Harem

Yeah I did that even for a fabric doll just to be safe. Handwashing is the best way to know when the bleeding stops. But I mostly buy used clothes anyway.

I'd also like to add that avoid buying cheap chinese clothes because those won't stop bleeding colors unless you try some old school vinegar trick perhaps.

nukeno · Post by **nukeno** » Wed Nov 01, 2017 4:06 pm

dullahan wrote:I did that even for a fabric doll just to be safe. Handwashing is the best way to know when the bleeding stops. But I mostly buy used clothes anyway.

More a general advice, but be careful with shoes too, because you can't wash them like clothes.
Nele was wearing black leather high-heeled sandals for a while, of course without socks or stockings, and got blueish stains looking like bruises.

But like Harem said, in silicone, most stains really disappear "magically" with time.

dullahan · Post by **dullahan** » Wed Nov 01, 2017 4:13 pm

nukeno wrote:
dullahan wrote:I did that even for a fabric doll just to be safe. Handwashing is the best way to know when the bleeding stops. But I mostly buy used clothes anyway.
More a general advice, but be careful with shoes too, because you can't wash them like clothes.
Nele was wearing black leather high-heeled sandals for a while, of course without socks or stockings, and got blueish stains looking like bruises.
But like Harem said, in silicone, most stains really disappear "magically" with time.

Oh yeah I was wondering about shoes actually. So would be good to avoid direct contact with dark-colored shoes.

joninin · Post by **joninin** » Wed Nov 01, 2017 9:24 pm

I have a 145 and missionary works fine. The vagina did start to form a small tear which I repaired with flowable silicone glue and reinforced inside with some mesh. After a few times, it's starting to tear again. So, I'll do another repair. If you're getting a new doll, you might want to go ahead and glue in a small patch of mesh just inside the top part of the vagina. The silicone is fairly thin there and prone to tearing.

Another tip: put a lot of corn starch on your insert and it will go in a lot more easily.

dullahan · Post by **dullahan** » Thu Nov 02, 2017 5:54 am

joninin wrote:I have a 145 and missionary works fine. The vagina did start to form a small tear which I repaired with flowable silicone glue and reinforced inside with some mesh. After a few times, it's starting to tear again. So, I'll do another repair. If you're getting a new doll, you might want to go ahead and glue in a small patch of mesh just inside the top part of the vagina. The silicone is fairly thin there and prone to tearing.

Another tip: put a lot of corn starch on your insert and it will go in a lot more easily.

What kind of mesh did you glue in? Was the silicone glue you used elastic or hard when dry? Hard permatex type of glue can apparently make things worse according to people here, but that worked really well with my silicone head. Though it was not such a high stress area as the crotch.

Corn starch sounds like a good idea. I was treading the idea of having to push the insert in and take it out.

joninin · Post by **joninin** » Thu Nov 02, 2017 5:42 pm

I went to the fabric store and bought a very thin mesh that doesn't have any elasticity. It's like a fine, open weave of a synthetic material. I think it's used for backing in sewing projects. I cut a small piece about 3/4" around to fit in that area on the top, inside of the vagina opening.

The insert is made from a fairly soft material. It goes in pretty easily with the corn starch coating. You have to pull it out gently to avoid tearing it, though. Haven't had any problems, yet. Being able to remove the insert to clean after sex is WAY easier than moving a doll with a fixed vagina around. The DS insert is also very realistic in texture. I wish my other silicone doll had a similar insert or that I could put the head from my other brand of doll on the DS body. That would be perfect for me. They make adapters to fit heads from various brands onto bodies of other brands. But, so far, they haven't made one for the particular combination I want. Ho hum. In the meantime, I will keep two dolls.

Oh, the flowable silicone sealant I got seems a bit elastic when dry.

dullahan · Post by **dullahan** » Thu Nov 02, 2017 6:24 pm

joninin wrote:I went to the fabric store and bought a very thin mesh that doesn't have any elasticity. It's like a fine, open weave of a synthetic material. I think it's used for backing in sewing projects. I cut a small piece about 3/4" around to fit in that area on the top, inside of the vagina opening.

The insert is made from a fairly soft material. It goes in pretty easily with the corn starch coating. You have to pull it out gently to avoid tearing it, though. Haven't had any problems, yet. Being able to remove the insert to clean after sex is WAY easier than moving a doll with a fixed vagina around. The DS insert is also very realistic in texture. I wish my other silicone doll had a similar insert or that I could put the head from my other brand of doll on the DS body. That would be perfect for me. They make adapters to fit heads from various brands onto bodies of other brands. But, so far, they haven't made one for the particular combination I want. Ho hum. In the meantime, I will keep two dolls.

Oh, the flowable silicone sealant I got seems a bit elastic when dry.

Hmm, that's an interesting solution to the tearing. I'll keep that in mind.

I agree that the DS's insert option is a very welcome feature. For that reason alone I wasn't considering the other brand of doll you own. You've gone to the best route of getting the best of both worlds

joninin · Post by **joninin** » Thu Nov 02, 2017 8:28 pm

Another tip I would offer is this: buy a small aquarium pump. After you wash the insert, stick a tampon into it to absorb the water. After a few hours, take it out and stick the air tube into the insert. Leave the pump running for a few hours to a day to dry the inside out really well. That's easier on the insert than turning it inside out to dry. You don't want to leave it moist inside.

dullahan · Post by **dullahan** » Thu Nov 02, 2017 9:03 pm

joninin wrote:Another tip I would offer is this: buy a small aquarium pump. After you wash the insert, stick a tampon into it to absorb the water. After a few hours, take it out and stick the air tube into the insert. Leave the pump running for a few hours to a day to dry the inside out really well. That's easier on the insert than turning it inside out to dry. You don't want to leave it moist inside.

That's a very good tip! Thanks. I'll probably get one.

I also find that my tower fan works perfectly if I stick a tube inside an insert and place the insert directly in front of the fan. It's basically a "redneck-version" of an aquarium pump. It has the airflow and it has the tube. I dry biggest waters with a kind of a superabsorbant cloth wrapped around a pen. The tower fan setup does the rest. I'd rather not waste money on tampons if I can find a more reusable solution.

MannyCan · Post by **MannyCan** » Thu Nov 02, 2017 9:50 pm

Keep the reference Skeleton pictures around when you pose. They really help you understand where the doll will bend (and not bend). Makes sure you don't break her without realizing it.

: Skeleton_01.jpg (53.39 KiB) Viewed 1126 times

Yeah .. and the wrist post is gold.

dullahan · Post by **dullahan** » Fri Nov 03, 2017 7:26 am

MannyCan wrote:Keep the reference Skeleton pictures around when you pose. They really help you understand where the doll will bend (and not bend). Makes sure you don't break her without realizing it.
Skeleton_01.jpg
Yeah .. and the wrist post is gold.

That's a good idea! The hinges give a good idea as to why the skeleton needs to be moved in such a specific way. I've seen close-ups of those DS hinges and actually 3D printed the system to see how it moves (before pulling the trigger on one). I can understand why there are certain limitations to the movement but overall the system is very brilliant.

MannyCan · Post by **MannyCan** » Fri Nov 03, 2017 3:20 pm

Yes - DS has one of the best skeletons for a reasonably priced silicone doll.

Karrot · Post by **Karrot** » Mon Nov 06, 2017 4:59 am

Buy her some satin Pyjamas!

Not only will she feel amazing in bed, but the long sleeves will rpotect her from bed sheet snags. Keep her in a pair of ankle stockings too to protect her toes in bed as well.

Karrot

dullahan · Post by **dullahan** » Mon Nov 06, 2017 8:58 pm

Karrot wrote:Buy her some satin Pyjamas!

Not only will she feel amazing in bed, but the long sleeves will rpotect her from bed sheet snags. Keep her in a pair of ankle stockings too to protect her toes in bed as well.

Karrot

These have been on my shopping list for months. Maybe after your encouragement I'll actually buy a set now. Saw some nice ones on Amazon that seemed to be from relatively reputable vendors.