Just abut burned up my electric drill trying to get head off

Anung Un Rama · Post by **Anung Un Rama** » Tue Nov 29, 2016 6:15 am

First you got to get the head off using the tools and method described above..the asumption from your post is you have already got ot this level to access the retaining bolt.

WRT roller washers (also known as thrust washers)....

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happy shopping

Begog · Post by **Begog** » Tue Nov 29, 2016 8:13 am

TTNLBTPD wrote:Well, nm on previous post. I got to the set bolt and that is the culprit. Unfortunately that bolt is also on too tight. I am hoping I didn't bend it.

Damn dude, I mentioned this set screw days ago, but it took Dodgeman to say it before anyone listened. Tilt the head back and use a long Allen wrench. If it is too tight, you said the main bolt would move CCW. Do that and try it again. You probably need new bolts now. Better than buying a new head.

Smoke · Post by **Smoke** » Tue Nov 29, 2016 2:06 pm

Ok. Well curiosity got the best of me.Yes indeed. I know Begog and Dodgeman were not making this up. However I had replaced the head on my RD2D a short time ago and had no trouble just taking the bolt that mounts the head to the little stainless block out. I took a look again and saw no set screw. And then it dawned on me.. The damn little block was in there backwards. When they put her together at abyss they must have been in a hurry and the block was backwards. They put the head on and snugged up the bolt and left it that way. This would explain also why the set screw was never tightened up.How the bolt didn't back out and her head didn't fall of is a mystery. And I'm her second owner.

I'll make a suggestion. But like Begog has said you will likely end up having to get a new bolt and probably the stainless block the head mounts too.

Are you up for this?.Turn your head. This won't be pretty. Please don't do anything untill Dodgeman has a look again at this thread.He may have a better Idea.But I suggest. You need to remove the bolt that bolts the head mounting block to the neck bracket.Take the bolt out and remove the block and the head from the bracket.You will need a couple of 7/16 sockets to accomplish this.

Tools.

: tools 2.jpg (507.88 KiB) Viewed 1235 times

: head 1.jpg (376.65 KiB) Viewed 1235 times

: Bolt 1.jpg (665.67 KiB) Viewed 1235 times

: Bolt 2.jpg (808.84 KiB) Viewed 1235 times

: Bolt 4.jpg (827.81 KiB) Viewed 1235 times

Smoke · Post by **Smoke** » Tue Nov 29, 2016 2:18 pm

: Bolt 5.jpg (636.25 KiB) Viewed 1235 times

: block 1.jpg (459.99 KiB) Viewed 1235 times

: block 2.jpg (757.84 KiB) Viewed 1235 times

Once you have the head off you will have free access to the set screw. The set screw is a 5/64" Allen Bit. If you still can't get the set screw to come loose then maybe we will have to employ some more Medieval methods.

dodgeman · Post by **dodgeman** » Tue Nov 29, 2016 2:26 pm

TTNLBTPD wrote:Well, nm on previous post. I got to the set bolt and that is the culprit. Unfortunately that bolt is also on too tight. I am hoping I didn't bend it.

Since you did try removing the SKULL bolt by turning it to the left, that would have put extra load on the set screw and made it tighter from thread interference between the skull bolt and set screw!

Get an Allen wrench the right size into the set screw and apply some rotational torque to the left,..While you have tension on the set screw, rotate the skull bolt back to the right as if you were going to tighten it but, (just a little) and hopefully the set screw will release! The set screw only needs to be rotated about one full turn to allow the skull bolt to be removed. If you need to wiggle the skull bolt right and left a little to release the set screw, that would be understandable if they were jammed and are a little messed up between themselves.

Smokes comment:...
It does make sense though. This way you can tighten the bolt that mounts the head to the stump to the perfect torque that will allow the head to turn freely. Then use the set screw to lock the bolt in place and keep it from backing off. Clever..

You are right on the money as to why the set screw is there and the size of it too!

You set the skulls rotational resistance left to right to hold a position so as to be able to pose her head and lock the set screw against the skull bolt to keep it from backing off and all of my dolls have the set screws to lock the skull bolt! I do know of one doll in the last year that did not have the setscrew in the neck post as it was missed at the factory, The doll was Nescio's Rebecca but, we got her fixed up right quickly!

The newer dolls no longer have the Torrington style bearings and hardened steel race washers but, they used to as many of my dolls have them. Abyss has gone to a single washer between the neck post and the skull base now to simplify things and to help prevent the parts being lost and installed incorrectly as I have seen a few times myself.

Dodgeman

dodgeman · Post by **dodgeman** » Tue Nov 29, 2016 2:35 pm

Damn, I was typing when you posted this Smoke! Excellent post for sure and a good way to remove the stainless block if the block was turned around from the factory!

Many people would not be up for this but, you and I are in the mechanical trades and so this is nothing to us so to speak!

You are on the money once again as to why the skull bolt on your doll was easy to remove and the reason that you could not see the set screw!

The photos that you posted here are great and show exactly what is needed to know about how the skull is attached to the post block and what to do to remove it from the post!

TTNLBTPD said that he could get to the set screw and if he try's what I posted, he may get the bolt and screw loosened up without removing the entire block from the post. He will need to get back to this thread and let us know how it goes for him!

EDIT: I am at work and need to log out for now guys, I will check in later!